[Adrian II]

You probably could get your existing swinging arm modified, but I'd want it done in a proper jig to keep the end plates and front tube kept in the correct position while any cut and shut is going on. THEN go gung-ho with the angle grinder! 

A.

[Paul W]

So, from what others have said, am I right in thinking that it’s the length of the arms that is a little restrictive, rather than the lateral spacing between them? In other words, the diameter of the wider tyre may catch the cross tube…..or is it both dimensions?

To lengthen the swing arms would be fairly straightforward. Cut the arms on a straight part, make up a stepped spacer plug with a suitable length, weld back together, file smooth, paint, fit a slightly longer chain.

I suppose the width of the assembly could be increased in a similar way. But yes, it would be vital to keep everything in line. My old BSA C15 had a very strange “stance” in that when the rear axle nut was tightened right  up, the wheel leaned over to the left. I think it was shoddy quality control at the factory because the hub plates weren’t parallel. But then the whole bike was made to a fairly shoddy standard (although as an inexperienced teenager I thought at the time it was the bees knees).

[stinkwheel]

Width is the main issue, You can set the wheel fairly far back on the fork-ends of the swingarm, may need fiddling with chain halflinks to make it work and have good chain tension.

The main issue is the chanstays taper in as you move towards the pivot and it's very tight by the time the tyre is in there. The higher the prifile, the tighter it gets at the widest point of the tyre so it gets you both ways. There is a boss for mounting the chainguard which hits first, i have a homemade lightweight alloy chainguard on my trials bike and it's fitted with a very low profile dome-head allen bolt. 4.00 x 19 trials-ish tyre in standard swingarm:


I have a proper 4.00 x 18 trials tyre to fit but it's a higher profile and works out almost exactly the same as the 19" in terms of width and rolling diameter. It will take some fillding to make it work.

[Adrian II]

So, from what others have said, am I right in thinking that it’s the length of the arms that is a little restrictive, rather than the lateral spacing between them?

The trouble is not so much that the length of the swinging arm is too short, but that the main tubes are too close together at the front. Look at where they're welded onto the front tube, Paul, they could easily have been welded closer to the outer ends to give more tyre clearance and still fit an Indian Bullet frame.

A.

[BruLan]

The trouble is not so much that the length of the swinging arm is too short, but that the main tubes are too close together at the front. Look at where they're welded onto the front tube, Paul, they could easily have been welded closer to the outer ends to give more tyre clearance and still fit an Indian Bullet frame.

A.

That looks like quite a simple fix on a standard Swing Arm. I think I will start looking for a used one and modify it.

[AzCal Retred]

You might be able to do the change without a jig. Weld on a square tube section outside & around the existing too-narrow round tube section, then cut away the round interior intruding part, then add shaped flat stock to cove the interior voids. Maybe a chance to add some chain rollers or sliders too.

[stinkwheel]

You might be able to do the change without a jig. Weld on a square tube section outside & around the existing too-narrow round tube section, then cut away the round interior intruding part, then add shaped flat stock to cove the interior voids. Maybe a chance to add some chain rollers or sliders too.

That is a bloody fantastic idea. When I get to grips with this new TIG welding/bronzing setup I got for Christmas, I might have a go at something along those lines on a damaged swingarm i have in the shed (warped sideplate and ovalled anti-torque bolt hole following a brake camming-on but nothing a hammer and some heat won't fix).

[BruLan]

That is a bloody fantastic idea. When I get to grips with this new TIG welding/bronzing setup I got for Christmas, I might have a go at something along those lines on a damaged swingarm i have in the shed (warped sideplate and ovalled anti-torque bolt hole following a brake camming-on but nothing a hammer and some heat won't fix).

What he said 

[BruLan]

Next question ...
Is a Bullet Sixty 5 Swing arm a standard Swing Arm.
Looking at the Hitchcock's Parts Book its the only part page missing (unless I am missing something)
I'm reluctant to Bastardise (Its an Engineering term) my standard stock one so will get a used one or an Indian import
Thanks and Best Bruce

[REpozer]

I decided to go back to the "traditional " style tyres . Most of my riding is on pavement/ tarmac , some gravel roads.
I couldn't find a " trials" pattern in 19" to my liking or trust.
I ordered from Brit Bike UK. Ill let you know my thoughts when they arrive. 

[stinkwheel]

Bullets handle pretty rough dirt roads very well even on normal road tyres, it's if it gets muddy that they struggle.

[Mr_84]

I decided to go back to the "traditional " style tyres . Most of my riding is on pavement/ tarmac , some gravel roads.
I couldn't find a " trials" pattern in 19" to my liking or trust.
I ordered from Brit Bike UK. Ill let you know my thoughts when they arrive. 

“Traditional” style tyres , are you talking Avon Speed Masters ?

Bullets handle pretty rough dirt roads very well even on normal road tyres, it's if it gets muddy that they struggle.

Couldn’t agree more , these Bullets plant them selves so well and seem to have a low centre of gravity considering their age of tech.
As a dirt biker I find the limiting factor is the suspension, I have better shocks and better fork internals , I’m sure I could break this bike if I showed it no respect in a off the tarmac situation.

Here’s a pic off tarmac , larger stone than normal gravel road , but funnily enough this pic must have been snapped on the smoothest part of this road , also note the Metzeler Block C fitted front and rear .

[Paul W]

Obviously a very smooth surface to keep that bottle of Jack Daniel’s upright!

[Adrian II]

Next question ...
Is a Bullet Sixty 5 Swing arm a standard Swing Arm.
Looking at the Hitchcock's Parts Book its the only part page missing (unless I am missing something)
I'm reluctant to Bastardise (Its an Engineering term) my standard stock one so will get a used one or an Indian import
Thanks and Best Bruce

Page 33 of the on-line parts book, it appears to be just the same as any other late pre-EFI Indian Bullet swinging arm, and why not?

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/464?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F7288

A.

[stinkwheel]

As a dirt biker I find the limiting factor is the suspension, I have better shocks and better fork internals , I’m sure I could break this bike if I showed it no respect in a off the tarmac situation.

I think you'd be utterly amazed what you can actually ride over with stock bullet suspension. I've ridden mine over some outrageously gnarly terrain on stock forks. Of particular note were the "Big H" link road in Northumberland and Longcross lonning in Cumbria. Both of these are incredibly steep (over 1 in 3), heavily rutted tracks littered with large boulders and head-sized loose rocks. There's one bit of Longcross where you're riding on a surface made out of loosely tipped out used house bricks and builders rubble which is one of the smoother parts of the road.

What you do need is a good bash plate. I thought 1/4" alloy plate was overkill, but it wasn't.