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I think that's GSS's teal classic in his avatar  ;)
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / My Interceptor is for sale
« Last Post by Bagonne on Today at 08:11:50 pm »
Friends, I've put my Interceptor up for sale.  If you know anyone in my area who is looking.........
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: Euro4. Euro5…
« Last Post by whippers on Today at 08:07:09 pm »
You must be unlucky. I haven’t seen a 2021 with a bad alignment problem and I haven’t seen a 2020 or earlier without one
Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: Front disk to drum conversion?
« Last Post by axman88 on Today at 07:45:50 pm »
Quote from: suitcasejefferson on July 31, 2021, 01:56:28 pm
But I can say with absolute certainty, from 14K miles of experience, that replacing the EFI with an Amal carburetor will drastically increase the functionality, or at least the rideability, and reliability.

Is that 14k miles since the conversion, or all up? 'cause I'm at 50,000km on the efi with a very pleasant absence of failures and enjoy excellent functionality and performance (yes it has a powercommander and auto tune but mines a bit modded).

I was wondering about our friends experimental control group too.  He says that " The RE was the first bike I ever bought with EFI, and I wasted no time in ditching that for an Amal carburetor setup with a conversion kit from Hitchcock's."

If a person has never ridden any other EFI bike and wastes no time chucking their EFI in the trash bin, one has to wonder about their qualifications to comment on the rideability and reliability of a bike WITH EFI.   How many miles were ridden with the (relatively early version) EFI before dumping it, what modifications had been made to the 2013 B5 Bullet that might have affected the EFI's functioning, and what, if any attempt was made to diagnose and correct any issues?

I've put 6300 miles on my first EFI motorcycle, ( 2012 C5), and there's things I like about it, like quick cold starting and ability to ride relatively smoothly when cold.  ( I ride down to about 28 degrees F)  and there's things I don't like about it, like cost of spares and the fact that I can't run the tank dry even for long term storage.  I'm considering going to carburetor.  If I do, I'd go whole hog, purge the ECU and sensors, convert to TCI, and an older, gravity feed tank, sell the original parts as spares, and end up with a profit in my pocket, not buy a pricey kit that leaves the ECU running in an endless error mode.  If I did make the conversion, I'd put a years riding into the conversion, including riding at the same cold temps I can ride at now, before I made my conclusions and sold off the EFI parts.
When mine does that I just put my foot in front of the nearest leg  when I push and the bike comes right off. It usually only happens on slick surfaces like my work table.
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: givi screen
« Last Post by agagliardi on Today at 07:25:01 pm »
I have the largest Givi windshield and it did fit. I do not remember the model, but it was the largest they make. The hardware can be installed in various configurations. I did have to remove the handlebar cross bar, although I kept the clamps on the bar, and relocated them down by the handlebar clamps, if that makes sense. Many members have been able to remove these cross bar clamps by either bending them open, or by removing the grips, controls, etc. Personally, they don't bother me, and are not  very noticeable when positioned inboard.  The  hardware is quite strong. and I found that, It gave the best wind protection set as high as possible. It looks great sitting low on the headlight cover, but I had some buffeting. Perhaps if it is angled more toward the rider, with a full face, it may work better when set low.

I took it off for the summer so I cannot send a picture.  Hope that helps. 
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: Tube Slime
« Last Post by 6504me on Today at 07:23:32 pm »
I know that this has been discussed on this forum somewhere but I can’t find it.
What seems to be the general consensus on tube sealants, specifically’Slime’?
All thoughts appreciated.
Ta, Steve.

Tubes rarely puncture with a nice tidy hole. They usually tear and sometimes as they deflate rip the valve stem. There's no repairing that unless you carry a spare tube.

Slime, and the like, rarely work and if you've ever replaced a tire or repaired that has had slime in it you'd never ask that question.
Pushed Bholenath very slowly about ½ mile up a pretty steep grade (about 20 feet at a time),  :P then about another ½ mile across level ground (much easier).   :)

My fuel light (with Koso TNT) quit working a while back. I put a new sending unit in, then ran out again. Last week I checked all my connections in the nacelle, ran out of time, so I moved on… This morning I knew I was really low, so I stopped at my usual gas station only to find signs on every pump; “No Gas”.  :o

I ran out before reaching the next station, lol!  :-[ Oddly, I feel kind of proud, like I’ve been through a classic bike “rite of passage”. I have now pushed my bike to the nearest station and made it to work without “Roadside Assistance” (which would have taken longer, and cost a lot more). I’ll have to keep on trying to figure out that light as I’m able. Meanwhile, I plan on filling up more often!  ;)
I wonder if the center-stand pivot point has oval due to use and weight of the bike over time.  If those pivot points oval, the center stand would be positioned too far forward as AzCal explained.   The photo attached shows the pivot oval on a Iron Barrel center stand plates, note the oval on the old plate.
On your G5, the plates would look something like this:
Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Lights and horn OOS
« Last Post by Adrian II on Today at 06:46:37 pm »
I'm glad the fix was straightforward.  ;D

A separate capacitor alongside the reg rectifier is a better idea than a combined unit unless space is severely limited. Single-phase reg/rectifiers are now so cheap as to be consumables.

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