Author Topic: Bogging Out / Spluttering Issue  (Read 13302 times)

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NickHonda400Four

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Reply #45 on: October 14, 2020, 09:26:18 pm
Guess what?...It's happening again!

At the end of a ride a few days ago my Enfield had a few misfires. Thought it was odd but it was only brief. This morning it fired up fine. I get the bike out, fire it up, then get my helmet and gear together so it has a good bit of time to warm through. When I came back outside it wasn't running. It then took me about 20mins to get the bike to idle. It smelt very rich.

When I hit the road the bike behaved fairly well. That was until approx 3000rpm when it all goes to pot. Popping, banging, misfiring, loss of power, lurching - Just like the original issue I had with the faulty injector last year. I'm going to check the basics, plug, spark, fuel and probably check the TPS hasn't moved. But I'm incredibly tempted to order a Hitchcocks Carb kit if all those things appear fine.


heloego

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Reply #46 on: October 14, 2020, 10:26:09 pm
Don't forget to check the small black wire at the Negative Terminal connector. Intermittent contact when loose will cause those same symptoms.
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JVS

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Reply #47 on: October 15, 2020, 11:33:33 am
I had this rich running issue for a few years, leading to misfires, loss of power, hesitation and death at high revs. Spark plugs completely fouled. I've been to the carb kit route and came back to EFI. Prior to the carb kit, a fault code for the engine temp sensor circuit had started coming up intermittently. I replaced the engine head temp sensor thinking it was the culprit, even though testing of the sensor showed resistance values in spec. But the rich running issue kept happening even after sensor replacement.

Went to two different sets of carbs and couldn't dial them in properly. Went back to EFI and the bike ran well at first and started dying after getting warm or at high revs - spark plugs fouled. Eventually the same fault code for engine temp sensor popped up intermittently.

I knew the sensor was OK. But I fiddled with the connector and realised that if I push the connector on the sensor, I didn't seem to get the fault code whilst stationery. So I unplugged the connector, dismantled it and squeezed the inner pin sockets with a set of pliers for a much more robust connection/mating with the engine head temp. sensor pins.

No more code, no more rich running, misfires and loss of power, fouled plugs. This connector had caused me so much grief and multiple spark plugs and rich running issue over the last few years, even without showing any MIL code at times. But it seems like that was the problem for me.

I guess the issue is that the inadequate mating of the socket on the engine temp sensor pins cause a high resistance connection / open circuit leading to the ECU thinking that the engine is still cold or colder than what it is - which makes the ECU inject more fuel (similar to what the sensor is supposed to do when the engine is cold).


Your previous injector was probably okay. At higher load / revs and heat, the higher resistance in that head temp sensor socket connection might've been causing the ECU to increase the injector pulse width, keeping it on for longer than what's required....(just my speculation based on what I've gone through).
« Last Edit: October 15, 2020, 12:15:22 pm by JVS »
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Haggis

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Reply #48 on: October 15, 2020, 11:36:52 am
Sounds like you have been fouling your spark plug again
Off route, recalculate?


Dharmabum

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Reply #49 on: October 24, 2020, 11:25:27 pm
Check you battery terminals, look hard have they got hairline cracks if so replace them. They will open up at a certain rev point and cause low voltage which the system cannot cope with.

REgards
« Last Edit: October 24, 2020, 11:32:11 pm by Dharmabum »