Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: 2bikebill on March 06, 2011, 12:17:22 pm
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Two odd unconnected wires under the seat of my G5.
The green-ended one comes out of what I suppose is the efi unit. The other one seems to be part of the harness.
Any clues as to what they might be for?
Everything works so probably no cause for alarm, but I'm curious....
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The "green ended" one is the ECU check wire - ground it, turn on the key - get trouble codes. the other is the ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link) connector - this is where the ECU's programme is dumped into the bike on the line - and where the diagnostic tool interfaces with the ECU.
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Thanks Bob.
Another mystery laid to rest.... :)
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those sounds like two important wires....do u guys sell the diagnostic tool to inteface to the connector and/or is their a aftermarket available??
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Why does your white connector has no rubber cap?
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Rubber cap....? :-\ Never seen one.
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I believe it comes down to quality control, which has room for improvement !!
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those sounds like two important wires....do u guys sell the diagnostic tool to inteface to the connector and/or is their a aftermarket available??
The tool IS available - to the tune of close to $3K a copy. This is why you'll not see one on your dealers shelf in the US anyway. they are just too cost prohibitive for what you get. Remember - this fuel system isn't a Bosch redundant one on a 750iL BMW - It's Keihin (bombproof) and SIMPLE (as in Enfield requirement for use). I've done all the initial testing and "snooping" on the system and I know how it works and what it does. If a dealer in the US has a failure they don't understand or can't figure out with a good DVOM - they get in touch with ME. I'm a little cheaper than the diagnostic tool and a LOT more interactive! ;) Hahaha!
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is it read only or can u wipe it out and just reload the parameters into the chip.....are u able to change any parameter setting u want..understand its just a one cylinder with just a few sensors and injector/fuel settings,air pressure, etc...I'll assume if u follow the interface cable, u will find the processor/cpu...3k for that is ridiculous but i can see it being proprietary to enfield or u said kehin.
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is it read only or can u wipe it out and just reload the parameters into the chip.....are u able to change any parameter setting u want..understand its just a one cylinder with just a few sensors and injector/fuel settings,air pressure, etc...I'll assume if u follow the interface cable, u will find the processor/cpu...3k for that is ridiculous but i can see it being proprietary to enfield or u said kehin.
The chip is an EPROM - but only Keihin holds the coding to change it. :'(
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they hold the keys to the kingdom...okay that answers that one...still at 3k it is prohibitive and see your point that u guys are the only one with it..
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they hold the keys to the kingdom...okay that answers that one...still at 3k it is prohibitive and see your point that u guys are the only one with it..
Green Machine - I think you misunderstand ..... Keihin - in JAPAN - is the only one who holds the key to the Magic Box. The Enfield boys, in typical fashion, were SO pleased with the programming that they didn't buy the rights. After all - WHO on Earth would want to MODIFY such a perfect thing ....... ::) That's a cultural thing for those fellows - and I can understand it. They didn't count on American and British tuners wanting even MORE out of the bikes! THEY are perfectly content with them, I think .......
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thanks bob for clearing that up and yes i was confused...
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This may be a bit off topic but
a) Are these wires also the ones used to connect in the "Power Commander" or is that somewhere else , and
b) When a Power Commander is used, to what extent does it duplicate or over-ride the "perfect" EFI settings of the Kehin unit. Does it act sort of in paralletl and just modify the EFI settings , or does it fundamentally overide them and act as a EFI unit on it's own. Thanks, Nigel.
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This may be a bit off topic but
a) Are these wires also the ones used to connect in the "Power Commander" or is that somewhere else , and
b) When a Power Commander is used, to what extent does it duplicate or over-ride the "perfect" EFI settings of the Kehin unit. Does it act sort of in paralletl and just modify the EFI settings , or does it fundamentally overide them and act as a EFI unit on it's own. Thanks, Nigel.
A.) No
B.) The Power Commander can be used to tune the bike to where it'll never run right again .... it's fully modifiable. It works in parallel with the existing ECU.
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The "green ended" one is the ECU check wire - ground it, turn on the key - get trouble codes. the other is the ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link) connector - this is where the ECU's programme is dumped into the bike on the line - and where the diagnostic tool interfaces with the ECU.
How does it display the codes? As series of lights flashing, etc? If so, is there a key chart somewhere that we owners could use for troubleshooting?
Cheers,
Dan K.
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MIL BLINK CONTENT
Engine will start but not perform to its potential. MIL will glow continuous
LONG 0 SHORT 6 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 0 SHORT 9 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 1 SHORT 1 Engine oil Temperature (TE) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 1 SHORT 7 O2 Sensor circuit malfunctioning
LONG 4 SHORT 5 O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunctioning
Engine will NOT Start but will crank. MIL will glow continuous
LONG 1 SHORT 5 Rollover Sensor circuit malfunctioning
LONG 3 SHORT 3 Injector circuit malfunctioning
LONG 3 SHORT 7 Ignition Coil circuit malfunctioning
LONG 4 SHORT 1 Fuel Pump circuit malfunctioning
LONG 6 SHORT 6 Crankshaft position circuit malfunctioning
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Hi,
Is there any way to re-set the blink content of the ECU? It seems the ECU stores all error codes even after everything is working perfectly again?
Thanks
Roeland
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Most ECUs, cars and bikes, you just disconnect the battery for a good 15-20 minutes and that will usually reset the codes.
Scottie
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MIL BLINK CONTENT
Engine will start but not perform to its potential. MIL will glow continuous
LONG 0 SHORT 6 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 0 SHORT 9 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 1 SHORT 1 Engine oil Temperature (TE) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 1 SHORT 7 O2 Sensor circuit malfunctioning
LONG 4 SHORT 5 O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunctioning
Engine will NOT Start but will crank. MIL will glow continuous
LONG 1 SHORT 5 Rollover Sensor circuit malfunctioning
LONG 3 SHORT 3 Injector circuit malfunctioning
LONG 3 SHORT 7 Ignition Coil circuit malfunctioning
LONG 4 SHORT 1 Fuel Pump circuit malfunctioning
LONG 6 SHORT 6 Crankshaft position circuit malfunctioning
Thanks! This will now be squirreled away in my new "Little Book of Enfield Knowledge".
Cheers,
Dan K.
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Dan, I printed the codes on a card, laminated it and tucked it into the fuse box.
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Dan, I printed the codes on a card, laminated it and tucked it into the fuse box.
Genius!!!
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Most ECUs, cars and bikes, you just disconnect the battery for a good 15-20 minutes and that will usually reset the codes.
Scottie
Not the case with the UCE. It stores the codes until they are erased with the Factory code scanner - which no one has. The ECU will display the codes set from last to first with no repeats. Also a code "41" is USUALLY a rotten ground in the system - NOT a bad injector. It's a pretty common code to come up .....
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Not the case with the UCE. It stores the codes until they are erased with the Factory code scanner - which no one has. The ECU will display the codes set from last to first with no repeats. Also a code "41" is USUALLY a rotten ground in the system - NOT a bad injector. It's a pretty common code to come up .....
I can attest to that ! ;D And as was explained to me ^^^^ Before I hung myself from a rafter with a motorcycle chain ! If you have a sensor disconnected, with key and ignition on.... it will through and store a code. I did this when rewiring the bike and testing. ... But even though the code is stored, the MIL light will go out when corrected. So bear that in mind when trouble shooting.... if you start pulling sensor plugs and such. Don't get alarmed.... just remember what you pulled and whether the key was on or not.