So that is a resistor cap if I have understood correctly? With a resistance of 5 ohms. If I use an NGK BPR6EIX plug, I need the NGK zero resistance cap LBF. Because the R in BPR6EIX stands for resistance. And it's not good to run resistance in the plug and the cap. Would this be right?
RE machines do come from the factory with 5K ohms of resistance in the plug and 5K of resistance in the cap, 10K total. Folks here say that better results can be gotten with less resistance, but the manual says that resistance is required to suppress EMI that can cause issues with the ECU. So, I'll leave you to decide for yourself what is "good" for you. I haven't done much experimentation, personally, measured the spark voltage, or even tried to calculate the energy that is dissipated in the resistance, but at least a few folks here say they get good results with 5K total in the secondary. I don't know if anybody has tried running with 1Kohm, or zero added resistance, both of which are possible. I would guess that issues with the ECU would show up as MIL errors or misfiring and NOT as damage to the ECU, but I haven't experimented or read about this, and make no guarantees.
The NGK BPR6EIX is a 5K resistance plug, as you surmised.
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-3903-bpr6eix-11-iridium-ix-spark-plugPersonally, if you are going to change caps, and can find it, I'd recommend an "E" suffix cap, not the "F" suffix cap, because the "E" type accepts the rounded "nut" at the top of the plug, where the "F" type requires the narrow threaded stud at the top of the plug. Of course one can unscrew and remove the threaded "Nut", where they are removable, but lots of sparkplugs nowadays are made with that "Nut" terminal built in, and not removable. The "E" type will let you use all the plugs with integrated nuts, and all the types where the nut unscrews, which might come in handy.
https://www.ngksparkplugs.co.za/products/ngk-resistor-caps/ Notice that the BPREIX-11 in the picture at the link I attached above has a solid electrode. If you had one like this, you wouldn't be able to unscrew the end and use it in a factory cap, for example. By the way, the -11 type has a fixed .043 gap, for automotive application, so would need to be reset to use in your machine. You want the bpr6eix, which has the removable nut and the .031 gap.
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-6637-bpr6eix-iridium-ix-spark-plug Yeah, there is a lot of details to keep track of, I found out the hard way.
I'm not personally a fan of the iridium type, because of the cost and because the manufacturers say that you aren't supposed to wire brush them clean. They are more delicate than the old school center electrodes.
Whatever you go with, my recommendation is to keep a good spare on the bike. For me, a plug change sometimes makes all the difference between getting the machine started, and being stuck.
Topic: Spark plug and HT lead. (Read 3383 times)