Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Vintage Royal Enfield => Topic started by: High On Octane on May 31, 2014, 01:30:43 pm
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Well, it looks like everything is going to pan out with insurance. I really wish I could've met with the claims adjuster yesterday but he said he would make sure to meet with me on Monday to get me a check for the insurance claim. I'm going to be getting enough money to give the bike a full make over and replace some needed parts that have been getting neglected for awhile. I was really pissed at this situation at first, but now it seems to be a blessing in disguise. So far, this is what is on the agenda for the make over:
-New fork seals and springs
-New alternator & mounting bracket and rectifier
-New headlight ring and yellow H4 bulb
-New rear sets
-New Dime City "PHAT" cafe seat/fender
-New center stand and retaining spring
-New custom paint that will be even better than the first job
I'm not getting quite as much money as I had hoped for, but I'll be getting enough to replace all the major parts I need. I still have to figure out how to afford some clip on bars and some new rear shocks too.
This is the seat pan I've decided to use as you can order it with a matching seat pad and it isn't much more than if I tried to fabricate something myself.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/legendary-motorcycles-abs-plastic-phat-cafe-racer-motorcycle-seat-pan.html
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/PHATSeatPan_zpsb3ead16a.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/PHATSeatPan_zpsb3ead16a.jpg.html)
I've also been looking at these rear shocks for awhile now and I think am going to give them a try. The price is right and they are fully tunable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281163855481?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/RearShocks_zps0bcd37af.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/RearShocks_zps0bcd37af.jpg.html)
If everything goes to plan, I'm going to be doing a BUNCH of online shopping Monday evening. ;D
Scottie J
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Have fun!
;D
Seat looks good.
I don't know anything about the shocks. They look good.
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Have fun!
;D
Seat looks good.
I don't know anything about the shocks. They look good.
Thanks Tom! BTW I have a feeling the new heads are going to be going on the Blackhawk for awhile. You know, to make sure they are working properly. ;D I also have an idea for the gas tank as I won't have the money for a new one for a while. So I was thinking of taking the original, size XXXL tank and hammering in the entire side of both sides of the tank. This will give it a unique 1-of-a-kind look and also slim it down for more handlebar clearance. Basically, both sides of the tank will completely dished in. I'm then going to paint the dished parts of the tank and a stripe down the center top that will be marbleized gold paint with red pin striping. Then on the top of the tank, on one side of the center stripe will be a small gold "Indian" logo and on the other side of the top will be a small gold "Royal Enfield" logo with my "Bulldog Kustoms" logo on the sides of the tank on the gold marbleized paint. Tom, I also want to throw a "ACE PERFORMANCE" sticker on my paint job somewhere as well. Can you help me out with that?
Also, Tom I'm considering converting from dual exhaust to a Y-pipe single exhaust. I have heard that a Y-pipe (or dual exhaust with a H-pipe) helps the motor perform better with a better tuned exhaust frequency. I have also heard that this style exhaust has better scavenging properties and can help with torque. If I do this I think I am going to use a FMF silencer like Bullet Whisperer is using on his race bikes. What are your thoughts on doing this? ???
Scottie J
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Thanks Tom! BTW I have a feeling the new heads are going to be going on the Blackhawk for awhile. You know, to make sure they are working properly. ;D I also have an idea for the gas tank as I won't have the money for a new one for a while. So I was thinking of taking the original, size XXXL tank and hammering in the entire side of both sides of the tank. This will give it a unique 1-of-a-kind look and also slim it down for more handlebar clearance. Basically, both sides of the tank will completely dished in. I'm then going to paint the dished parts of the tank and a stripe down the center top that will be marbleized gold paint with red pin striping. Then on the top of the tank, on one side of the center stripe will be a small gold "Indian" logo and on the other side of the top will be a small gold "Royal Enfield" logo with my "Bulldog Kustoms" logo on the sides of the tank on the gold marbleized paint. Tom, I also want to throw a "ACE PERFORMANCE" sticker on my paint job somewhere as well. Can you help me out with that?
Scottie J
Yes, but I'm out of stickers right now. I'll let you know when I have them.
Regarding the tank, if you look at a lot of the old racers and cafe bikes from that time period with clip-ons, they have "clearance dents" purposely formed into the forward sides of the tank, so the bars don't pinch your thumbs against the tank. You could easily hammer them in, and also hammer the rear sides in for tucking your knees in tight against the tank. Leave the area in between wide. That's the way they did it back in the day. You can look up some photos of the old cafe tanks like the Manx Sprint tank, and see examples.
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Wow, of all the pics I just looked at I think I only saw 3 or 4 bikes with that style of tank mod, I like it! Also, did you see I modified that last post with another question?
Scottie J
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Wow, of all the pics I just looked at I think I only saw 3 or 4 bikes with that style of tank mod, I like it! Also, did you see I modified that last post with another question?
Scottie J
Yes, the Y pipe can help scavenging and power on a twin. It needs to have the right design, and since the pickings are scarce for that bike, you probably have to just hope that whoever made that siamese pipe for the twins knew what they were doing.
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Geesh..... I don't think I've ever wanted a weekend to be over so quickly. LOL ;D Not too often one actually looks forward to a Monday, eh.
Scottie J
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Scottie - I've seen guys make those dents by cutting out those sections, swapping the sides that they are on, and welding them back. It requires a little bending, I'm sure.
Boggy
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Scottie - I've seen guys make those dents by cutting out those sections, swapping the sides that they are on, and welding them back. It requires a little bending, I'm sure.
Boggy
I've heard of that technique before, unfortunately I don't know how to TIG weld and that is the only way to make sure you have an air/water tight weld/seal. I am pretty damn handy with a hammer tho. ;)
Good news is I just received and deposited the check into my account. Time to go shopping!!!
Scottie J
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All parts are ordered except for the seat pan, rear shocks and clip ons. ;D
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Holy effing elephant crap! I just tried leaving for work and my stupid bank froze my account again because of my purchase from Hitchcocks. So I came home to look at things and they charged 71 GBP for shipping and handling!!! #$@!$&^*((^$$& >:( Freaking crooks! The order just ended up costing me $100 more than anticipated. Doesn't look like I'll be ordering the seat or shocks any time soon now. :( After my deductible I only got $1050, the order from H's is just shy of $800 and I spent about $175 on electrical parts yesterday. I'm pretty much tapped out. Shit. :-\
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You think your pissed?
Just wait until your wife tries to buy some groceries at the store and they tell her she's broke. :(
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Holy effing elephant crap! I just tried leaving for work and my stupid bank froze my account again because of my purchase from Hitchcocks. So I came home to look at things and they charged 71 GBP for shipping and handling!!! #$@!$&^*((^$$& >:( Freaking crooks! The order just ended up costing me $100 more than anticipated. Doesn't look like I'll be ordering the seat or shocks any time soon now. :( After my deductible I only got $1050, the order from H's is just shy of $800 and I spent about $175 on electrical parts yesterday. I'm pretty much tapped out. Shit. :-\
Thats my only hate with hitchcocks, no pre purchase shipping info :/
Also The Blackhawk Cafe would be a great cafe name... ::)
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You think your pissed?
Just wait until your wife tries to buy some groceries at the store and they tell her she's broke. :(
This time doesn't count. I used insurance money. ;D
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Holy Smokes! I ordered my alternator, Tympanium and headlight ring from The Bonneville Shop Monday night, they shipped it out yesterday morning and was in my mailbox when I got home today! Too bad I can't install any of it until my mounting ring shows up from Hitchcocks.
Scottie J
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I'm going to have find a new bank/credit union. On top of all the BS fees they already hit me with, I discovered this morning that they are now charging me $7.89 for "international fees". I called them and at first the guy is like "oh, we didn't charge you that visa did" then his story changed to "well you should've been charged for those other transactions from the past but there was a glitch in the computer system". I literally told him that they can kiss my ass and I'm not giving then any more of my hard earned money. Why are businesses, particularity government run businesses so freaking greedy these days. It makes me sick.
Scottie J
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Who did you call about the $7.89? ERC
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My credit union, they are the ones who charged it. I've never been charged before on any international orders......
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I can't believe it! I just got home with dinner and I saw a parcel note on the table from USPS. My parts from Hitchcocks are already here! :o ??? ;D
Looks like I'm going to be wrenching on the bike tomorrow. ;D
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After looking at the notice the post office left I saw that the package is marked Priority Mail Express. I don't feel quite so bad now about spending $120 on shipping, it looks like I got my moneys worth. 3 days from England to Denver. I have noticed that living in an international city, my packages generally arrive within 5 days time no matter where it's coming from. :D A lot of stuff that I buy on Ebay stateside shows up in 2-3 days from order. Except Hitchcocks if I order without tracking. Last 2 orders without tracking both took 2 1/2 weeks. :-\ Anyways, I'm happy and excited to get this project rolling tomorrow! ;D
Scottie J
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Alright! Party Time!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/NewOrder1_zpsc495b566.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/NewOrder1_zpsc495b566.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/NewOrder2_zpsa0285618.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/NewOrder2_zpsa0285618.jpg.html)
I grabbed my parts this morning from the post office. Everything was there and all looks good. I'm excited to not only have the electrical issues fixed once and for all, but I'm SUPER excited to fit these rear sets! I've been eyeballing them for over a year and I finally had an opportunity to buy them without emptying my wallet and having to listen to wife say "Why do you spend all of your money on your bike?" ;D
OK, I have some work to do! Will report back later today. Quick question tho.... The neutral finder will still work with the rear sets correct? I would just need to remove my foot from the peg to use it, right? I ask because I see that the rear set kit came with a neutral finder blanking kit, but I really enjoy using the neutral finder........ ???
Scottie J
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Congrats! Also, Wow, after having recently done my own alternator, that one looks puny! I didn't realize the ES versions were so much bigger than the KS.
Have fun!
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I always love the way they pack them with newspaper instead of those shitty bubbles that stick to everything. ERC
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What a PITA. Got started by removing the primary cover and discovered that the tensioner had completely removed itself and it was in fact what I was hearing/feeling clank off of the primary cover so I'm glad I didn't ride it anymore. Problem is that when it fell out it ripped out all of the threads too so I had to get an oversized bolt (M10x1.25) a new tap and a couple of new drill bits. Got it all to work but not without making 4 different trips and putting 25 miles on my car driving around in a 3 mile radius from my apartment. :-\ Then I couldn't for the life of me get the alternator to line up properly even after drilling out the mounting holes. I was seriously ready to say screw it for the day when on the last fastening of the nuts I finally got the feeler gauge to go all the way around the rotor. :P My back is pretty angry at me so I'm taking a short break. Then I'll be going back out to install the rear sets. :)
Scottie J
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Why can't anything be easy? "Install brake light switch/pedal stop bracket into the threaded hole just behind the tapered hole with the 1/2" bolt." Yeah my frame doesn't have that threaded hole, not does the supplied brake rod fit. I used the old brake rod but I'm going to have to do some custom fab to make a brake stop or make the new one work. :-\
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Holy crap, my back is not happy, and I'm out of herb. It's making it difficult to focus on this damn project when I feel like I have an elephant standing on the small of my back. :'(
Anyways, I was able to make the brake lever stop by using the original lever stop hole and bolt and added a piece of flat metal to the bolt hole and stuck a piece of rubber hose over the metal. Crude but functional until I can figure out what I really want to do. I will just use the existing brake light switch for now until remedied. Installed the right side controls too. Turns out it is necessary to remove the neutral finder as it is in the way of the shifter linkage. Seems like it is adjusted correctly and working as it shifts in and out of 1st gear with ease (motor not running, waiting for silicone and loctite to dry inside the primary before I fill it). Just need to throw the exhaust back on and then all I have left is the center stand and fork springs. But I think I will take my bike into work and do that in the shop. I'm thinking of just wrapping some straps around the bike and hoisting it in the air with the overhead lift. That should make it super easy to do the center stand and also make it easy to remove the front end to do the fork springs and seals. I'll post all of the pics once I'm completely done. OK, going back at it again! :D
Scottie J
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OH!!! Annnnnd Hitchcocks totally neglects to tell you on the website or ordering process that the "cafe racer side stand is needed for the engine/frame mount bolt to fasten tightly and correctly." I wish I had known that before I ordered, I would have ordered a new side stand instead of a center stand for the same price. I ended up making ANOTHER trip to Ace Hardware and bought some machine bushes and cannibalized a 13mm deep socket for spacers and bushings.
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OK, here's the Pics as promised. :)
I was about to start working on my bike in my car port when I started thinking "Man, I know this is going to be a big project and I KNOW I'm going to be making at least 1 trip to the store." Bottom line, I didn't trust my tools just chilling around my car port for anyone to take willy nilly the second I turn my back. So I moved my garage to the front door! The look on my wife's face when she got home from work was priceless! Her face said "What the hell are you doing with your motorcycle torn apart on the front door step" combined with "Well, this is shocking, yet some how doesn't surprise me." And then when I explained why I had the bike there she actually said "Well, that makes sense. See?! Sometimes you just have to make the best out of what you have." It's weird when shes nice to me while I'm working on the bike. ;D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/TempGarage_zps8fa5dee0.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/TempGarage_zps8fa5dee0.jpg.html)
Next, the primary situation. Like I said yesterday, I pulled the cover and the tensioner damn near flopped to the ground.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/TensionerFail_zpseaf5b025.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/TensionerFail_zpseaf5b025.jpg.html)
Mid-Chaos, this is what the wife came home too. ;D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/PartsAndChaos_zps7e834e8a.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/PartsAndChaos_zps7e834e8a.jpg.html)
OH, and I removed this lovely gem from the foot rest/motor mount bar that runs underneath. Glad they send a new 1 with the kit.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/FootrestBar_zpsb2c881da.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/FootrestBar_zpsb2c881da.jpg.html)
Right side rear set installed
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/RearSetRight_zpscee227d7.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/RearSetRight_zpscee227d7.jpg.html)
Left rear set installed. You can see by the arrow how I made a lever stop by taking a piece of flat metal with a piece of rubber hose around it and mounted it to the original lever stop mounting hole.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/RearSetLeft_zps9c33c553.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/RearSetLeft_zps9c33c553.jpg.html)
And just before the sun went down for the day.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/RearSet1_zpse2b66a59.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/RearSet1_zpse2b66a59.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/RearSet2_zps5fcbd5cf.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/RearSet2_zps5fcbd5cf.jpg.html)
Scottie J
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Looks good!
I guess the neutral finder was in the way, huh?
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Yep, it sure was. The shift linkage rides right over the top of where the N finder goes. Seems to shift pretty well without the motor running, and I don't believe the clutch is dragging at all now, so I should be OK. The last few rides I was out I was figuring out the perfect technique for down shifting manually. I had been having lots of problems before where I would go to downshift and go into a horrible loop of false neutrals where it would take several attempts to find ANY gear. I think I finally got the clutch adjusted correctly and figured out the loving touch and pretty much eliminated that problem. Looks like I'll be rumbling up to every stop light now instead of kicking the NF and cruising up to the light all cool and casual. ;D
Scottie J
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That lever stop will be fine I did that on one I put together. ERC
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That lever stop will be fine I did that on one I put together. ERC
Great minds think alike. :)
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I'm not sure I could ride my iron barrel without the N-finder! Nothing like coasting to a stop with the clutch lever out, I love that little lever. Too bad you had to ditch it :'(
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The 5-speeds don't have it. You get used to downshifting after a while.
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The 5-speeds don't have it. You get used to downshifting after a while.
I need to get used to downshifting this bike smoothly anyhow, I want to start doing some road racing. The Auto Sports Complex I did the flat track racing at also has a paved road course that I went to start playing on.
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I still have the sloppy 4 on the left so the N-finder gets used all the time. Down shifting isn't the problem, hitting neutral is though. I bet the 5 speeds are much better, the RHS kit for this bike will come in time...
Nice work on the bike so far, glad you decided to keep with it 8)
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Don't know if this might be of interest, but here's how it was done [originally] on the Bob Mcintyre Super Meteor for the 1958 Thruxton 500 miler. It took a bit of working out until I found the original R.H. exhaust pipe, then it all became clear ;)
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BW - I've seen that bike posted on here before. The rear sets are definitely a different set up than Hitchcocks sells.
I took a short ride around the block and all seems well, except finding neutral. THAT is going to take some getting used to. lol The bike shifts fine, but now has a completely different feel, and it feels the part. It seriously feels like riding a 60's race bike. Downshifting is going to take some practice as the trans is a little hard shifting to begin with and I need to get used to the angle of my feet. Need to tighten the rear brake rod a little bit too. Going go grab some lunch with the wife and then I'll go out for an afternoon ride and see how she's doing. Also, leaking ATF out of the primary already and I noticed it looks like it's coming from where it mounts to the engine case. I must not have put enough sealer on that flange to run it gasketless. And I didn't use a gasket because I wanted to make absolutely sure that the bolt holes were fixed and not going to loosen up again. Oh well. I'm used to pissing anyways. ;D
Scottie J
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Went to lunch with the wife and it started raining. Go figure. It had slowed to a drizzle at around 2:30 so I went out for a short ride in town. All in all the new stance is pretty comfy. The bike shifts nice but something must be up with the clutch lever. I get it to where the cable slack feels good but the clutch slips, I back it out and it stops slipping but then it starts to drag. i guess I'm going to have to replace the levers after all. I didn't have too many problems getting into neutral but there were a couple of times I had a problem. It got stuck in 2nd at one light and I ended up stalling the bike trying to get back to 1st, luckily I got it kicked over again before the light turned red. About 20 minutes into the ride it started to actually rain again so I just headed back home.
The only 2 issues that I see so far is that you have to raise the right foot peg to kick start or your heel will hit the peg. And you have to raise the left foot peg to get the bike on the center stand or you will take the peg right in the shin as you try to roll in onto the stand. Both remedied by raising the foot pegs out of the way. A bit inconvenient but tolerable.
Also, I'm a little disappointed. The exhaust headers are sealed tighter than a dolphins asshole now. No more entertaining backfires out of the exhaust. :(
Scottie J
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Rode the bike to work today and the clutch is still slipping pretty bad and also leaking ATF really bad. I have half a mind to drain as much ATF out as possible and only leaving a splash in there. I'm thinking this is still a residual problem from using the Advance Auto brand type F ATF, I think the plates might be glazed.
Scottie J
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I'm bringing this thread back to life, as I believe that I have come up with a plan for my motor build, and I also have couple questions for the performance guys.
I've been speaking with a gentleman at M.A.P. Cycles, which I believe to be the leader in Brit Bike performance here in the States. I told him my plans of building, and the fact that no one here in the US sells performance RE parts, and quite frankly, I'm tired of sending my money overseas, paying twice as much for parts, when I should be supporting the struggling economy that I live in. After about 2 more weeks of research I have come to this conclusion:
I want steel conrods. I'm not wasting time or money on billet aluminum rods. I've seen too many pictures of them failing and taking out the engine. M.A.P. Cycle makes steel H-Beams for Triumphs, BSAs and Nortons. Upon my research, I have found that the BSA A10 conrods are damn near identical to the RE twin rods.
A10 Specs:
CtC - 6.5"
Small End Dia. - .75"
Big End Diameter - 1.8435"
Big End Width - .955
RE Specs:
CtC - 6.685" (I can't remember exactly, but this is what my memory is saying)
Small End Dia. - .75"
Big End Dia. - 1.8755"
Big End Width - .790" (measured on the crank journal).
Marino at M.A.P. believes that these will work well, and just need to have my machinist alter the big end of the rods to match the crank. If the RE rods are in fact 6.685" (6 5/8") then using the A10 rods will actually "stroke" the motor.
Upon the recommendations of Bullet Whisperer, I will be using Triumph T120 71mm pistons. Standard compression for the T120 is 9:1, but the dome of the piston is still 3-4 times bigger than the 8:1 RE piston. BW recommended using the Wiseco Norman Hyde pistons, as that is what he uses, but there's an issue with this. Even tho Wiseco is only a couple of states away from me, they will only sell those pistons directly to Norman Hyde. So, they will more than likely cost a small fortune by the time I have them paid for and shipped. M.A.P. Cycles sells a very nice forged piston set for $350 and appears to be very high quality. They also happen to sell a very nice cast piston for the T120 that is only about $120 for the set with rings. Marino says they are not as good as the forged pistons (obviously) but are "still a high quality piston, especially considering the price".
So, by going with the cast pistons and the steel rods I will only be spending about $600 for both sets. As compared to $1200 for making custom rods or pistons, or even $1000 for H's sub-par rods and pistons. Also, I'm going to figure out how to convert my clutch to a dry system to eliminate the slipping. I think the only real issue that I might run into is the alternator not getting lubricated. If it burns again, I'll just remove the charging system entirely and look into using a larger battery with a bigger reserve.
And lastly, the wheels. I'm thinking that because I want to race this bike, and I'm not concerned with either of my bikes being completely original, that I may be better off using the fork and wheels from the Chief for the Blackhawk. The fork is 1.25" wider than Interceptor fork that I have now, and the wheels are 16" which gives a little bit more options for performance tires. But, I'm not sure if this will have a positive or negative effect on the handling. If I do use the wider fork, I will have a custom billet fork brace made to help stabilize the front end.
All in all, my calculations say that I should be able to build the motor for $1800 or slightly less. then the only other items I will need is tires, a big tach and a cafe seat which should be less than $600 for all of that.
Forged Pistons
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/top-end/pistons/triumph-t120-tr6-650cc-forged-pistons.html
Cast Pistons
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/top-end/pistons/triumph-650-1958-later-piston-set.html
4340 Steel H-Beam Rods
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/bottom-end/con-rods/conrod-a10-late-6-5-4340-h-beam-p-r.html
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Scottie you pasted the cast piston link twice.
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Oops! I fixed it. :)
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Scottie if I remember correctly you will have to be careful turning the crank down if you have to cut to much the crank will be soft. ERC
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$200 extra doesn't seem like that much more to pay for the forged set. If you can, I would budget for this set. I see they have a T120 forged sets for $299. Why couldn't you use that set Scottie?
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Changing rod length will not affect the stroke length of the engine. That can only be done by changing the crankshaft.
However, how high up the piston will come in the bore will be affected, and you will need to adjust the barrel height to suit a different rod length.
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Scottie if I remember correctly you will have to be careful turning the crank down if you have to cut to much the crank will be soft. ERC
The crank is only going to be turned down -.005 and then balanced and plasma-nitride treated. I will have the rods machined to match the crank so nothing more than necessary will be removed from the crank.
$200 extra doesn't seem like that much more to pay for the forged set. If you can, I would budget for this set. I see they have a T120 forged sets for $299. Why couldn't you use that set Scottie?
I guess I had looked over that set before. I just may end up spending the little extra for them, as you say, that is only another $200.
Changing rod length will not affect the stroke length of the engine. That can only be done by changing the crankshaft.
However, how high up the piston will come in the bore will be affected, and you will need to adjust the barrel height to suit a different rod length.
Duly noted on the stroke. And I had taken into consideration the need to machine the barrels. My thought was to get all the parts and have the crank done and cylinders bored and pre-assemble everything with clay on the piston tops to check to see what clearance I have and then machine or shim accordingly.
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Ace - What lobe profiles for the cam would you recommend if I have then custom ground?
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Started reshaping the tank last night. WAY more Bondo on the tank than what I spread on it. Every whack of the hammer a chunk of mud just fell out. It actually made it difficult too pound because when I'd strike it it wasn't exactly where I wanted because the Bondo was covering an already existing dent. Should still look good when I'm done. I think I'm going to order more metal flake and use a larger flake in conjunction with a gold pearl this time. Should come out extra sexy. Also, I'm going to do an "8 Ball" design on this job. It will be a true cafe racer all said and done.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1125141651_zpsakcjaqii.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1125141651_zpsakcjaqii.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1125141652_zpsv1os5jvv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1125141652_zpsv1os5jvv.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1125141651a_zps0j9rhrzw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1125141651a_zps0j9rhrzw.jpg.html)
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Also, I'll have to get some clip on or clubman bars because I'm not feeling the super bike bars inverted.
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Glad to see your back working on the bike instead of selling everything. ERC
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Ace - What lobe profiles for the cam would you recommend if I have then custom ground?
What rpm range are you targeting?
I would look at a similar thing to the R cams from the Interceptor. That seems to be a good pair. Don't over-do what the valve springs can handle. You have to consider all the stuff in the valve train.
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What rpm range are you targeting?
I would look at a similar thing to the R cams from the Interceptor. That seems to be a good pair. Don't over-do what the valve springs can handle. You have to consider all the stuff in the valve train.
I'd like to shift between 6500-6800 if that is possible.
Man, my tank is looking good! ;D
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Last coat of mud, almost ready for primer! :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1126141759a_zpsya3adjk4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1126141759a_zpsya3adjk4.jpg.html)
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I didn't quite make it to primer. After 4 straight hours of aggressive sanding my arms gave out and started cramping. But, this is what it looks like so far.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1126142000b_zps4lqsyie2.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1126142000b_zps4lqsyie2.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1126141959a_zpsqwclngz1.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1126141959a_zpsqwclngz1.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1126141959c_zpsaf18a57u.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1126141959c_zpsaf18a57u.jpg.html)
I realize the sides aren't completely symmetrical but the left side was beat up really bad and it didn't shape the way I wanted it too. The right side came out perfect tho.
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Looks great!
I think the Interceptor R Cam type profile and a fresh set of Interceptor valve springs should work for that.
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Ace - Doing some late night browsing and was thinking about about how Mikuni doesn't make a TM30. So I went onto Amazon to look at the VM30 and realized I can buy TWO VM30's for $30 cheaper than I can buy ONE Amal 930. I assume the Mikuni VM30 has got to be a better carb than the Amal 930. Thoughts?
Also, the Interceptor valves and springs are the same as the Constellation and Super Meteor. So I may just have to fork out a bit more for the beehive springs if we can make them them work with the stock valves. If they are too much, I'll just order a set of new OE springs.
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Ace - Doing some late night browsing and was thinking about about how Mikuni doesn't make a TM30. So I went onto Amazon to look at the VM30 and realized I can buy TWO VM30's for $30 cheaper than I can buy ONE Amal 930. I assume the Mikuni VM30 has got to be a better carb than the Amal 930. Thoughts?
Also, the Interceptor valves and springs are the same as the Constellation and Super Meteor. So I may just have to fork out a bit more for the beehive springs if we can make them them work with the stock valves. If they are too much, I'll just order a set of new OE springs.
VM30 carbs are fine. The disign actually was licensed from Amal originally, but I think Mikuni did a better job with it. And the Mikuni is always way cheaper than Amal. So that would be the way to go IMO.
The beehives will not be compatible with the stock valves or stock head in that bike. Much cheaper to buy OEM. That bike should do 6500rpm+ on the stock parts. The Interceptor was rated at 6500 rpm on specs I have seen.
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Ok great! As long as I can easily hit 6500-6800 without running into valve bounce I think that should work just fine for now. Besides, even new OE springs will be better than the 56 year old pieces of metal in there now, right? ;)
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Yes, springs lose their tension/pressure with use. Newer springs have the advantage of better manufacturing, and they will be fresh. Valve springs should be changed periodically. They don't last forever.
Typically, a valve spring will lose about 10% of its pressure within the first few hours of use, and then settle in for the long haul at about 90%.
Most performance enthusiasts with high revving engines will change valve springs at least once per year. Regular motorists don'need to do that because they aren't pushing the springs to the limit.
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Body work on the tank is finished! Ready for high build primer and then wet sand with 500 grit paper and she'll be ready for paint.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1127141845_zpsybabqcyr.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1127141845_zpsybabqcyr.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1127141844a_zpsszu3oknw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1127141844a_zpsszu3oknw.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1127141842b_zpsi5ptow6q.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1127141842b_zpsi5ptow6q.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1127141842_zpsymej7wxx.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1127141842_zpsymej7wxx.jpg.html)
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I had ERC measure a conrod for me (because I don't have one handy and can't for the life of me remember how long it is). Turns out I was wrong. It is neither 6 3/8" NOR 6 5/8", it is 6 1/8". But no worries to be had. A quick search and found that the A65 and A10 have the same crank journal, only the A10 is 6.5" CtC and the A65 is 6" CtC. So I'm still in good shape. :D
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/bottom-end/con-rods/conrod-a50-a65-6-0-4340-h-beam-pr.html
Also, I just noticed that the Nikisil T120 pistons for $300 are for the Big Bore kits starting sizes at 76mm, which is way to big for my needs. For 1 it will exceed 750cc which will put me at the bottom of the 850cc bracket for Bonneville. Plus I don't think the cylinders can take that big of a bore. So a No-Go on those pistons.
So I'll need to spend $350 for the full race forged pistons:
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/top-end/pistons/triumph-t120-tr6-650cc-forged-pistons.html
Or $100 on the "High Quality" cast pistons, that seriously look like a damn good piston for $100.
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/top-end/pistons/triumph-650-1958-later-piston-set.html
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I know when brought up before it was decided that the clip on bars from China are weak and are known to break. I found these that are reasonably priced and seem to be a good design. thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Cafe-Bobber-CB450-CB500-CB750-35MM-Silver-Clipons-Clip-on-Bars-Handlebars-/200877338693?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec538f045&vxp=mtr
There are these ones as well that look even heavier duty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clip-ons-35mm-black-7-8-aluminum-Vortex-clip-on-bars-cafe-racer-Triumph-BSA-/360614966971?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f653b6bb&vxp=mtr
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I just read on another blog that the US ECTA(East Coast Timing Association) LSR Speed Record Holder in 650 N/A pushrod, with his 650 Triumph twin, has dyno'd his bike at 60 hp at the engine(crank hp).
He has run somewhere around 122 mph in the flying mile on that bike, and holds the record.
Just FYI.
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Cool, thanks for the heads up. :)
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Got the tank in primer this morning before I clocked in.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1201140725_zpsd7naomnt.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1201140725_zpsd7naomnt.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1201140724_zpslf4bhse4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1201140724_zpslf4bhse4.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1201140724b_zps563xbrlq.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1201140724b_zps563xbrlq.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1201140724a_zps90imph6q.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1201140724a_zps90imph6q.jpg.html)
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Looking very "cafe"!
8)
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Hope you checked it for leaks before the paint work Scottie. Great job looks good. ERC
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I didn't check for leaks with liquid but I did thoroughly inspect the tank visually for any tears or holes and and didn't see anything. I'll be sealing the inside before final paint anyway.
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It reminds me of the old Lyta tanks for the Gold Star Clubman DBD34.
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All my co-workers really like it. I'm wet sanding it in between stuff at work now. I'm going to get it in black base and clear by end of day tomorrow. Tom, I just heard back from my brother in law, he loves the idea of the monogram I sent you. He is going to try and have it ready by next week. 8)
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First stage of painting complete!!!!! 8)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202140811b_zpsz2rsp8ca.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202140811b_zpsz2rsp8ca.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202140811a_zpstubd7de0.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202140811a_zpstubd7de0.jpg.html)
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It's purrty!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202141149_zpsvxvhmcbj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202141149_zpsvxvhmcbj.jpg.html)
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First stage of painting complete!!!!! 8)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202140811b_zpsz2rsp8ca.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202140811b_zpsz2rsp8ca.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202140811a_zpstubd7de0.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202140811a_zpstubd7de0.jpg.html)
Looks good what a nice job. ERC
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Thanks Roger! You guys thought the first paint job looked good, just wait......... ;D
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Before Pearl Coat:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202140811b_zpsz2rsp8ca.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202140811b_zpsz2rsp8ca.jpg.html)
After Pearl Coat:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202141723a_zpsj9xuklox.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202141723a_zpsj9xuklox.jpg.html)
Notice how in the shade it gets blacker as less light hits it.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202141723c_zpsi6mhmo1x.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202141723c_zpsi6mhmo1x.jpg.html)
I LOVE pearl coats!!!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1202141724_zpspswhn18o.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1202141724_zpspswhn18o.jpg.html)
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Me spraying the final coat of clear and a walk around of the tank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju93mFAf6V8&feature=youtu.be
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Oh, that is awesome Scottie! Nice work.
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Alright, finally finished...... For now, until I can get my custom stickers made. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1203140810a_zpsdgcocqbc.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1203140810a_zpsdgcocqbc.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1203140810b_zps4axbplnr.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1203140810b_zps4axbplnr.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1203140810c_zpseuhdznc4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1203140810c_zpseuhdznc4.jpg.html)
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Pretty exotic looking!
What kind of pattern is on that stripe?
It sort of looks like cracked ice.
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Pretty exotic looking!
What kind of pattern is on that stripe?
It sort of looks like cracked ice.
Thanks Ace! The stripes I used a technique called marbelizing. One of my favorite custom techniques, it's actually simple to do if you know how to, and looks super cool.
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Scottie please don't take this the wrong way but I think I liked your tank better all black. My opinion in this case less would have been more. I don't understand the use of the Indian and RE decals together on top of the tank and then the contrast of the gold lettering with the silver stripes and to top it off the odd color of the bar reliefs. I think you did a great job on the project. Everyone's tastes are different so you can't expect everyone to hop on board. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder (you), that is the only thing that matters. Who am I to judge, I am just a simpleton with simple ways.
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No offence taken, custom paint isn't for everyone. Believe it or not, all the custom applications are all gold. The pearl coat is gold pearl and the stripes are champagne gold base. The original colors before the pearl are black with white pockets. When you look at the tank in the shade, the pearl almost completely disappears. It will look yet even different still in the sunlight. Honestly, it was more pearl than I intended to use, but it was too late and just went with the flow. It has actually really grown on me overnight, as it came out looking like a chameleon British Racing Green with a bronze tint to it.
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It is just one piece of the puzzle. Will be looking forward to seeing the complete bike build.
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Suh-weet, man! I dig it!!
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Nice paint job 8)
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Thanks guys!
I am so happy with this paint job that yesterday afternoon, I sent some pics to my painting mentor back in Wisconsin. He has been building custom Hot Rods and Street Rods for 25+ years, and the guy who taught him painted for about 40 years from the 1950's until the early 90's. Denny has taught me pretty much everything I know, including the marblized trick I did with the stripes. Unfortunately, he is always so busy when I do talk to him it is usually for a short time, but I had a short text conversation with him last night that I'd like to share:
Me - Hi Denny. I wanted to show you what I've been working on. I'm converting the Indian into a vintage 60's cafe racer and reshaped the gas tank. It' black base with white accents on the front dimples, gold and white pearl coat and champange gold marblized stripes. Total of 11 coats of clear.
Denny - White inserts need a couple of pale white stripes, maybe even on the marble stripes.
I can say I am very proud to say I got to teach you... Looks really cool... You've come a long way brother...
Looks really cool...
Me - Thanks bro! I was thinking of doing some flat black pin stripes along the edges. Also, inside the white is going to be getting this custom RE logo. Up close it says RE but from a distance it looks like a vintage 8 from an 8ball.
Denny - Sweet... That will look hot.
There was more talk, but this particular part made me very happy. When I started auto body 10 years ago, Denny told me in my first week "I will teach you what you need to know to be a good painter and body guy. But I need YOU to commit to trying your hardest, actually listening to what I'm going to teach you, and that you stick with it and don't waste my time." As it turns out, about 6 months later we had another conversation where he said "I'm really impressed with how far you've come. You've been doing this for 6 months and you are already at a level of quality that takes most people 2-4 years to achieve." That put an even bigger spark under my ass and started pushing myself. I started coming in on Saturdays just to practice on smashed hoods and doors with old paint. Started teaching myself to tape out graphics and flames and started playing around with candies and stuff. I have several "test panels" I sprayed for potential projects that came out so cool I've kept them and hung them up in my garage.
What I'm getting at is that; it feels really, really good being told by the person you look up to as an inspiration that they are proud of you and what you can do and have accomplished. This really means a lot coming from one of the best painters in the entire state of Wisconsin, likely one of the best in the entire Midwest. :D
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Ues, I think that was a great conversation with Denny.
I agree with the bordering comment.
Here's my take.
I think that the white round "meatballs" aren't perfectly round, but they are close enough that your eye can easily pick up the non-round spots. I think that a border accent of some kind which would give a more visually "perfect round" look to those white meatballs would tidy it up nicer. Mot necessarily actually being perfectly round, but giving the eye perception with the shape around the edges. If I am picking that up, then so are others. Doesn't need to be high impact contrast either. This may have been what Denny was talking about.
Just trying to give a constructive opinion about what I see.
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Thanks Tom. I too had noticed that about the meatballs. All this work and its still incomplete. Hahaha. :D That's why I was thinking flat black vinyl pinstripe tape along the all the edges. Perhaps satin white would look good as well.
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I have never seen that marbleizing effect before.
I think it is VERY trick!
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I'm in the works of trying to acquire a sponsor today. So far sounds promising. Fingers Crossed! :)
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Thinking about installing the 16" wheels, fork and swing arm from the Chief onto the Blackhawk. they're kind of scuzzy so I'm going to paint them. Flat black, gloss black or gold???????
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Flat black, gloss black or gold???????
Here's my opinion: yes. I think you've shown us that you don't need us to choose your colors and styles for you!
Please don't design your bike by committee. This is what happens when you do it with ferries:
(http://newenglandboating.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Captain-E.-Frank-Thompson.jpg)
(http://www.advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/puke.gif)
Only thing I will say: dude, you gotta get a new seat cover! ;)
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Here's my opinion: yes. I think you've shown us that you don't need us to choose your colors and styles for you!
Please don't design your bike by committee. This is what happens when you do it with ferries:
(http://newenglandboating.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Captain-E.-Frank-Thompson.jpg)
(http://www.advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/puke.gif)
Only thing I will say: dude, you gotta get a new seat cover! ;)
Ok, point taken. :P As for the seat??? Hopefully I will find out more details about the "sponsor" today. If all goes well, I will be getting a very nice aluminum cafe seat from this company. I don't want to say anything else as not to jinx it. ;)
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Sponsor Acquired!!!!!
I just found out this morning that said company will be supplying me with a custom fit, one-off prototype aluminum seat pan for cost. Once all the details are finalized I will announce the name of the company. But for now, my seat will look similar to this, but will be painted to match the tank.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Screenshot_2014-12-05-09-14-01-1_zpsrpaoclqp.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Screenshot_2014-12-05-09-14-01-1_zpsrpaoclqp.png.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Screenshot_2014-12-05-09-13-37-1_zpstrofymyu.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Screenshot_2014-12-05-09-13-37-1_zpstrofymyu.png.html)
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Great!
What does "sponsor" mean in this case? Will their name be blazoned across the back? Jes' wondering...
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Sitting here watching Ebay like a hawk.... Maybe a Blackhawk? ;D Anyways, I'm bidding on a sweet set of clip on bars. Auction ends in 1hr40min, if I get them what I hope I can get them for I'll save $60 over what they normally cost. 8)
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Great!
What does "sponsor" mean in this case? Will their name be blazoned across the back? Jes' wondering...
That's weird. I replied to this yesterday but I guess it didn't post. Anyway...
For a Joe Schmoe guy like me, getting "sponsors" is a way to promote a company while they help me out with parts and/or fuel and entry fees and such. In my case, I'm trying get a couple of sponsors to help out with my journey to the Bonneville Salt Flats. With this particular scenario, I found a small company that makes custom cafe racer parts, and I really liked the seat pans they had to offer. So I emailed them saying that I has some technical questions that I'd like to speak with someone over the phone. When I received the call from one of the owners I approached him saying "I have a small private operation, Bulldog Kustoms, and I am building a bike to race at Bonneville and also some local tracks. I'm a kustom painter by trade, but have limited resources for custom fab. My thought is that if you can supply me with a cafe seat pan for my bike at a substantial discount, I will be more than happy to put your companies name on my gas tank under clear coat. Basically, one small guy to another small guy; if you scratch my back, I'll scratch your's."
He liked the idea and said that he needed to speak with his co-owner and would get back to me. The next day I received an email saying that not only were they more than happy to help me out, but would supply me a seat pan at the cost of materials AND needed me to make a template of the seat area of the frame and take measurements and pics so they could make me a custom "unique" seat pan specifically for my bike. I get a bad ass custom seat pan for super cheap, and they get advertisement everywhere I take my bike. Win Win. :D
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Nice going Scottie. Happy for you. ERC
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Well I lost the auction on the Vortex clip on bars, so I started searching again and I finally came across a nice heavy duty clamp clip on that doesn't cost a fortune. :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clip-on-Handlebars-35mm-Anodized-Black-Cb450-Cb500-Cb550-Cb650-Cb750-Cl77-Gt-Gs-/281436413253?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4186eadd45&vxp=mtr
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I pulled the trigger on the black clip on bars. I contacted the seller over the phone to verify that they are made in the USA, and the y are. He had mentioned that a couple of his local customers have them on their race bikes and really like them. Also, he has sold several and has had no reports of breaking or failure. Plus they have a Lifetime Warranty against defect. What the hell, I'd rather spend $80 on something American made than $80 on some Taiwanese EMGO crap.
Also have been shopping around on Fleabay today and found a nice set of black and gold motocross shorty levers that should look and work well for this build. Also, a nice pair of aluminum bar end mirros I've been scoping out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161354315548?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321400557577?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&var=510278597990&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Sounds good!
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Can you mount Ace bars on the bike?
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Can you mount Ace bars on the bike?
The Clubman bars don't look right on my bike, so that's why I'm going with clip ons. Plus, with the clips on bars I can stretch out more with my tall body.
I started fabbing up my electrical/battery box today. It is 5.5"x5.5"x8.5" and will house the battery and fuse panel for the custom harness I am building. I will also be installing a key switch ignition in the front lower right corner of the box. And on a side note..... Sounds like I may have my sponsor's decals in the next week or two to finish the paint on the tank. :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1209141314b_zpsbuvihyos.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1209141314b_zpsbuvihyos.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1209141313_zpskoorrovz.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1209141313_zpskoorrovz.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1209141313b_zps7ndtfqis.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1209141313b_zps7ndtfqis.jpg.html)
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I like the box you can hide all the electrical crap in there. ERC
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Ace - Can I hit 7000RPMs with big enough cams and a pair of TM32s without porting?
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Ace - Can I hit 7000RPMs with big enough cams and a pair of TM32s without porting?
Maybe not in top gear.
The carbs would be plenty big enough, but I don't think there will be enough hp . Road tests by magazines in the 60s showed the Mk1A Interceptor to have an actual tested top speed of about 105 mph. That means it did not reach redline rpm in top gear. Hp limited.
I suppose it would depend on the cam profile you pick, but then you could have valve spring concerns. I don't know the lift limit that is possible on the cams that can fit in the available clearance limits for that engine case. If you could fit .400" lift cams into the engine, you could get around 130 cfm flow from stock ports/valves That should get you around 51hp in hot street tune. Or maybe about 65hp in full race tune with very high compression and race gas or methanol. These are crankshaft hp estimates. Subtract about 7hp for drivetrain losses to get rwhp estimates.
IIRC, they stopped the baseline flow test at .400" lift because the upper retainer was hitting the valve guide. No more room left, and that was without a valve spring. I don't know where those springs reach coil bind. We weren't going to use them, so we just removed them. I'm guessing that you could have room for .350" lift, because that is almost what the Interceptor R cams have, and they were probably meant to use the available limits of that valve train. .350" lift would get around 125 cfm, and about 1hp less than the above figures.
These would be the expected limits, and longer cam duration may yield higher rpms to some extent if the valve train can take it, at the expense of some lower rpm torque. If you can find any performance data on the Interceptors using the R cams, you could probably expect similar results as them, using R cams.
If you are on race gas or methanol, and have around 13:1 compression, and making 53hp at the wheel, you might hit 7000 rpm in top gear, if the sprocket isn't a big one. 53 rwhp is probably good for around 122 mph. That ECTA record holding Triumph 650 that I mentioned earlier in the thread has 60 crank hp(probably about 53rwhp), and hits about 122 mph in the flying mile, naked. With a good fairing, add about 7-12 mph higher top speed, depending on how good the fairing is.
At Bonneville, subtract 5-10 mph because of Bonneville conditions. Nobody goes as fast at Bonneville as they do at sea level on good pavement.
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So, here's the deal. There is an older guy on the LandRacing.com forum who is absolutely convinced that I cannot break a record with my Enfield. But, apparently he is willing to pay me $200 cash if I can break 135mph at Bonneville. I did another RPM chart last night; to hit 135mph with a 22 tooth sprocket I'd need to hit 6629 RPMs, too hit 135mph with a 21 tooth sprocket I need to hit 6945 RPMs.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/135mph_zps61f4a34f.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/135mph_zps61f4a34f.jpg.html)
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I see it as a matter of whether you can hit those rpms in top gear. This involves making enough hp at those rpms to overcome the aerodynamic drag at that speed. It's not just the simple matter of looking at a chart and thinking that 6629 rpm sounds like it should be do-able.
Regarding hitting 135 at Bonneville with stock heads, I would agree with him that you won't be able to do it.
Here's why.
Nobody else has ever been able to do it, and your build is not bringing anything out of the ordinary to the event. If it was possible to do it with stock heads and cams that fit, it would have already been done 50 years ago.
If you plan to go faster, then you require something that will get you beyond what has been done before.
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Ok. Thanks. :)
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Looks like I need just over 79hp in order to reach 135mph.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/aerohpcalc.html
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Look, let's put some numbers to it.
Your stock heads with the most possible lift that the head can take, will produce 130 cfm(.400" lift). Probably they can't really do even that much without coil binding the springs. But, we'll give it the benefit of the doubt. So, with 2 heads, you are producing 260 cfm flow to work with. That is your theoretical max from these stock heads.
The hp/flow calculator estimates about 65hp max from that flow delivery, in full race "balls to the wall" methanol-burning diesel-compression level, fully cammed and fire-breathing tune. That's crankshaft hp.
It just so happens that our racing 500 Bullet heads produce flow in that general area. 260+ cfm. While we don't have data yet on exactly how fast a Bullet can go with these race heads yet, because it's "off season", we do know how fast the fastest known Bullet can go. And that is Steve Linsdell's Bullet 500. It may be still even a bit faster than ours, but we don't know yet. Anyway, with Linsdell on the bike, and world champion build and tune, with a full racing fairing with slippery aerodynamics, it has been clocked at 129.9 mph on the long straight at the Isle of Man, doing about 9000 rpm on a shortened-stroke large-bore Bullet 500.
And that is at a nearly sea level altitude on pavement. Not at 5000 feet elevation on loosely packed salt. We feel that our racing Bullet will have a good shot at being in that neighborhood, also.
135 mph does not come easy on a bike like yours. HP is expensive.
With the heads that we made for you, they lifted .500", and flowed 160 cfm per cylinder, and had valve gear to provide the full .500" lift from your available R cam lobes.
That's 320 cfm total, which the hp/flow calculator estimates 80hp in that same level of fire-breathing tune. This is about 25% more hp than your currently available most optimistic potential, and more likely almost 30% more than your more realistically attainable potential. And we are the only people in the history of the world who have ever achieved this with RE SM/Con/Inter heads.
And there, is your 135mph.
RB racing hp calculator says you need 79 hp.
The heads we made for you have potential for 80 hp.
You need a sponsor, and these heads.
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Ok. Thanks as always. I was hoping for 130mph without head work, but that obviously isn't going to happen. Thanks for crunching the numbers. :)
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Ok. Thanks as always. I was hoping for 130mph without head work, but that obviously isn't going to happen. Thanks for crunching the numbers. :)
Happy to do it!
:)
Head work is the foundation of performance. Nobody wins anything on stock heads, except in classes that have restrictions for no modifications. And even they get worked over in ways that the inspectors won't notice, and that can also get expensive.
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Did some more work to the electrical box this morning. I'll have to wait until I get the ignition switch, kill switch and wiring before I can finish and paint it.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1210140729a_zpswjebjuoe.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1210140729a_zpswjebjuoe.jpg.html)
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How are you planning to fasten it to the frame? Hope your back is better. ERC
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How are you planning to fasten it to the frame? Hope your back is better. ERC
The box sits flat on top on the frame. Then I'm going to thread the 2 rear most holes/bushes that are welded into the side of the frame seat area. That should hold it nice and tight.
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I did that on one of mine, that way you don't screw up the frame in case somebody in the future wants an original frame for big money. ERC
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I did that on one of mine, that way you don't screw up the frame in case somebody in the future wants an original frame for big money. ERC
What size tap did you use? I was thinking 1/2x20.
My friend is coming over in a couple of hours so we can load up the Blackhawk to take it into my work to finish the build. That way I can finish up stuff like bobbing the front fender, completing the electrical and stuff like that. Plus when I get the seat pan everything will be ready to go for mock up and then straight to paint. :D
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If you're going for speed Scottie, maybe a fairing kit can help with aerodynamics?
Guys Bullet was just hitting the ton on Broadfords main straight near the end, basic avon style fairing and he said it gets up there a little quicker which makes a huge difference.
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What size tap did you use? I was thinking 1/2x20.
My friend is coming over in a couple of hours so we can load up the Blackhawk to take it into my work to finish the build. That way I can finish up stuff like bobbing the front fender, completing the electrical and stuff like that. Plus when I get the seat pan everything will be ready to go for mock up and then straight to paint. :D
The bolt that comes on them is 1/2"x 26 British, the hole should already be threaded for this size. ERC
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Yee Haw!!!!! Handle bars showed up today ANNNND my Christmas Visa gift card from Mom, too. Time for more shopping!!! Going to go pick up my wires and terminals to complete the new wire harness tonight, and then tomorrow after work I will get the new clip ons installed and run the new harness. Then I can paint the electrical box. After that the only thing left is head gaskets, valves springs and the new seat pan. I'm going to have one sweet ass bike when I'm done! :D
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very interested to see what kind of terminals you use for your harness, Scottie...
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I'm using female spade connectors for the wires going into the fuse panel, bullet connecters will be used where needed for items such as the rectifier and alternator and lights, and ring terminals for the battery connections. I will also be adding a grounding post to the case of the electrical box. And all the circuits are going to be color coordinated wires; green for ignition/tach, white for lighting, yellow for kill switch, black for grounds and red for the main power lead. I will also weld 2 small L brackets to the front of the box to mount the rectifier. Mounting it there will not only tuck it up under the seat, but will allow me to run the leads directly into the electrical box. That way, every connection (except for lighting) will be made inside of the box, nice and tidy. There will not be a single loose wire or connection anywhere on this bike. No hacked wires, no redneck engineering, just nice clean black loomed wires everywhere you look. :D
As of now, I have everything I need except for the ignition switch and kill switch, which I plan on picking up tomorrow. Once the harness is mocked up and in place, I will do a loose wrap of electrical tape to bind the wires together and then everything will be sleeved with black romex, better known as corrugated wire looming. After the harness is completely built and ready to rock and roll, I will strip the electrical box of everything, coat the inside with rubberized undercoating and then paint the outside of the box and lid gloss black.
Other items on the butcher block? Chop the front fender so it is only about 14-16" long, do a little body work to get rid of the dents and then paint match it to the rest of the bike. Tear apart the front end of the Chief and paint the triple trees gloss black, and then swap the axle and outer hubs from the 16" wheel to my 19" wheel. This will eliminate the nacelle and my non functioning gauges. I will eventually make a bracket that bolts to the original handlebar clamp and mount a 5" racing tach, no speedo. Doing this will also give me the advantage of having a wider fork stance for a little better stability.
I have also been in regular contact with my sponsor. They sent me their logos and I told them what sizes I need and they will be sending them with the seat pan. And speaking of the seat pan, they sent me a couple of pics of the prototype seat pan design they will be using for my build. The rear portion of this will remain the same, but the front portion will have an upward incline to follow the RE frame, similar to my generic home brewed redneck seat that is on there now. ;D Anyway, here is the pic.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/IMG_1955%20sm_zpsogxwldfo.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/IMG_1955%20sm_zpsogxwldfo.jpg.html)
Things are getting really exciting!!! I've always loved my bike, but it just wasn't good enough in my eyes. When I am done, this bike is going to win some shows. And once I get the new motor built, it is going to win some races too!!! Well, at least have a blast trying to win! ;D
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Here's a pic of all the goodies. :) Just remembered driving into work that I still need to buy some rubber grommets for where the wires go in and out of the box. No biggie, there's an Advance close by that sells them. ;)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1212140602a_zpss3avomdt.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1212140602a_zpss3avomdt.jpg.html)
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I love the look of a wiring harness in progress.
Electrickal worries goodbye!
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Absolutely true! The 2 biggest complaints I constantly received about my restoration was the seat and the messy "temporary" wires. The wiring is going to be super clean when I'm finished. And the seat will be a one off custom, both birds killed. LOL. ;D
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As long as that old seat cover gets killed... ;)
Aw, c'mon, Scottie - you know we kid because we care!
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I know Matt. :)
Just picked up the last bits for the electrical; ignition switch, tether kill switch and a new brake light switch.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1212141126_zpsy4t5kjqk.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1212141126_zpsy4t5kjqk.jpg.html)
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Looking good Scottie. Glad you didn't give up and sell everything. ;D ERC
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Thanks and me too! ;D
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Big speed bump. The electrical box hits the 18" wheel. I have to make the box all over again and about half as wide front to back. Damn it. Started on the new box and stripped all the old wiring from the bike, so at least I got a little done. :-/
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Courage and Faith, Miss Honeychurch, Courage and Faith!
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I'll admit I was pretty frustrated last night when I found the box didn't fit on the Blackhawk. The only thing I can think of why it didn't fit is Because I have the Suzuki swingarm on the Chief and is almost 3" longer. I should still be able to use it the 1st box on the Chief, so all is not lost.
One thing that does have me concerned tho is that after I removed the fender and bracket, I noticed the edge of the rear tire is rubbing against the chain guard. I know it was always a real close fit, but I don't ever remember it making contact. Makes me wonder if for some reason that the rear wheel came out of alignment. Actually, now that I think of it, the last time I did a chain adjustment was in the dark. And tho I haven't ridden a whole this year, I do remember that last few rides I took I was getting bad speed wobbles over 75mph. Is it possible for a mis-aligned rear wheel to cause speed wobbles? ???
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Hi Scottie,
It looks like you are making good progress with this project. I just spotted these and wondered if they might be of any interest?
B.W.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Royal-Enfield-Meteor-500-/261697174992?ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:GB:1120
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Thanks BW. I sent the seller a message asking what stamps they have. I have a theoretical question for you. Could a 500 twin Meteor Minor crank be used in a 700 case and pistons to destroke the motor to a 650ish?
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The main bearings are the same. Don't know about the width on the crankcase though. If anyone knows B.W. will. ERC
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The main bearings are the same. Don't know about the width on the crankcase though. If anyone knows B.W. will. ERC
One of those cranks might well fit inside the 700 cases - I don't know for sure, mind - but, if you fitted one, you would be back down to 498cc unless you plan to overbore ...
B.W.
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B.W. is right if you used a Meteor Minor crank, 70 x 64.5, but if it was a 500 twin crank 64 x 77 , this would make the engine almost square at 70 x 77. Not sure what capacity this would make but an interesting thought, if interceptor barrels and pistons were used it would be 71 x 77.
I have been considering the alloy one piece barrels from a mk1 Interceptor, for my Trailblazer, has anyone put interceptor barrels on a Super Meteor or Constellation ?
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B.W. is right if you used a Meteor Minor crank, 70 x 64.5, but if it was a 500 twin crank 64 x 77 , this would make the engine almost square at 70 x 77. Not sure what capacity this would make but an interesting thought, if interceptor barrels and pistons were used it would be 71 x 77.
I have been considering the alloy one piece barrels from a mk1 Interceptor, for my Trailblazer, has anyone put interceptor barrels on a Super Meteor or Constellation ?
I have spoke with H's several times about the 1 piece alloy cylinder. According to them, it does sit on the 700 engine case, tho the head studs need to be upgraded to 3/8" studs. They say it will work but no one has actually done it yet. I still wanted to do it for my build, but when I check earlier this week I saw the price increased to 588 GBP, which converts to almost $900 USD, so I won't be doing it any time soon.
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I have spoke with H's several times about the 1 piece alloy cylinder. According to them, it does sit on the 700 engine case, tho the head studs need to be upgraded to 3/8" studs. They say it will work but no one has actually done it yet. I still wanted to do it for my build, but when I check earlier this week I saw the price increased to 588 GBP, which converts to almost $900 USD, so I won't be doing it any time soon.
Thats a lot of money, But I have a plan, I am building both engines, one quickly put together just to get it on the road and sort the teething problems out on. The second engine will be the special, I am thinking Interceptor 1 crank, alloy barrels, maybe fuel injection too.
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Fuel injection sounds a bit complicated for an old British twin when you could get excellent results from a pair of Mikunis or even a pair of Dell'Orto PHF32 pumper carbs! B.W. also gets good results from Amal Mk2s, which would be another option. What size inlet ports do you have on the Mondello roller rocker heads?
A.
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Fuel injection sounds a bit complicated for an old British twin when you could get excellent results from a pair of Mikunis or even a pair of Dell'Orto PHF32 pumper carbs! B.W. also gets good results from Amal Mk2s, which would be another option. What size inlet ports do you have on the Mondello roller rocker heads?
A.
1.25" each.
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31.75mm, that's the carb size sorted, then!
A.
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31.75mm, that's the carb size sorted, then!
A.
Yep!
We sized them for the 32mm.
Approximate choke limit rpm is 8250 rpm for that buggy with twin 32 carbs.
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I got some more work done on the bike today. Round 2 of the electric box went well. I did it slightly different than the first one and is more compact. I'm going to have to make a different lid tho because I don't have a big enough piece of sheet metal right now to make the lid overlap the sides of the box like I want. But there is a metal place just around the corner from work that will cut/sell any piece of metal you need in any size, so I might run down there on my lunch tomorrow.
So far this is what I have going on and got done. The electric box is half the size of the original. It clears the tire ::) and I have all the holes cut for wires and the ignition. I installed the new rear brake light switch and also ran wire from the box to handlebars for the headlight lead and 2 wires for the kill switch.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1215141709_zpswdpjhqta.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1215141709_zpswdpjhqta.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1215141708_zps9fesonm3.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1215141708_zps9fesonm3.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1215141709_zpswdpjhqta.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1215141709_zpswdpjhqta.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1215141807_zps6qjkdziq.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1215141807_zps6qjkdziq.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1215141808_zpszv6xqvor.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1215141808_zpszv6xqvor.jpg.html)
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Like your tank work. The whole project is taking shape really nicely.
Are your bullet-type connectors weather proof ? I like the ones used by factory on my Royal Enfield, since plastic on one side of connector overlaps the other half of connector and makes pretty strong, almost water tight fit. Bullet connectors sold by Radio Shack were not so good, as they come apart easily exposing metal parts. I guess Autozone or Advance Auto Parts have better designed products for automotive use than Radio Shack.
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Thanks Singh! I wanted heat shrink connectors but when I bought them I was at Home Depot and they didn't have them. I'm not too worried about it, the only 2 connections that will not be made inside the box are the lights and 2 stator leads. The stator leads will be loomed and the taillight I spliced in a 3 wire plug I stole off of another parts car. I guess my bike is part Subaru now. LOL. ;D
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Finished making my new electrical box for the Blackhawk! The box itself is made from 1/8" plate steel and has holes cut in it for a key ignition and wires to run in and out of the box thru rubber grommets. All connections will be made inside the box except for a couple, but they will be hidden under wire looming. The lid is made out of 16g cold roll steel, and I intentionally bent the sides a little tight so it "snaps" into place. I will put velcro on the 2 side flanges just as a secondary measure. I will also glue a small piece of rubber foam to the bottom side of the lid above the battery to secure the battery in place. I built the box to have minimal clearance for the battery, so after I coat the inside with rubberized undercoating, the whole box will be insulated and have a soft cushion for the battery to rest in. Tomorrow I will weld a short M6 stud to the inside of the electrical box for a grounding point. The box itself will ground thru the frame at the mounting points. Then hopefully after work tomorrow I can get the box painted and officially mount it and finish the wire harness and complete the connections inside the box.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1216141733_zps14enuhzm.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1216141733_zps14enuhzm.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1215141709_zpswdpjhqta.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1215141709_zpswdpjhqta.jpg.html)
I'm also going to weld two 6M to right side (in this pic) to mount the rectifier.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1216141513b_zpspbbdmtyy.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1216141513b_zpspbbdmtyy.jpg.html)
Also, I spliced in a 3 wire waterproof plug into the brake light harness. So, any time I need to remove the brake light when I remove the exhaust, I just unplug it! :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1216141747_zpsjlwdiual.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1216141747_zpsjlwdiual.jpg.html)
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Sweet!
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I'm with Ace on this. Very nice. ERC
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Finally took a pic of my 2 bikes together. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1217141240c_zpsivjaxdyx.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1217141240c_zpsivjaxdyx.jpg.html)
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Wow! Those wheels are way different size!
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I notice you've got your normal British oil under one. ;D ERC
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She wanted to make herself at home. ;D
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Alright! Productive day today! I got the front end disassembled on the Chief today. Originally I was just going to paint the triple trees black, but after I stripped the paint off of the top nacelle with the wire wheel on the bench grinder, it started looking shiny. So I decided to remove all of the casting marks with a Scothbrite 3" disc on my grinder, keeping the pad wet. Then I wet sanded it with 500 grit, and then a quick once over with 3000 on the DA. I didn't waste time sanding it step by step to get a mirror finish because there are a few deep gouges that can't be sanded out. But all in all, it looks really great! The lower stem I just painted black with the battery box after work. Tomorrows plan is too officially finish and install the wiring, and if time permits, do the front end swap and get the new controls installed. :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1217141536_zpsthwlsomo.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1217141536_zpsthwlsomo.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1217141750a_zpsuvko70lr.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1217141750a_zpsuvko70lr.jpg.html)
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The electrical is complete! :D Well, everything except for the headlight and killswitch, which I will do after I swap the front end out and get the new controls installed. It didn't come out exactly how I had planned, and I may make the fused battery leads a little bit longer and try to get the plug under the fuse panel. There are a lot of wires and plugs in a very small area and it is a little bit of a rats nest. But once the lid is on it looks great!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1219141931_zpsrco0nqfw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1219141931_zpsrco0nqfw.jpg.html)
Every circuit now has it's own fuse: head light, brake light, tail light, coil and ignition.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1219141928_zpsfqgbvnjw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1219141928_zpsfqgbvnjw.jpg.html)
You don't know how excited I am to finally have a key for my bike! ;D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1219141929a_zpsnvvjrlmh.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1219141929a_zpsnvvjrlmh.jpg.html)
The wiring is all nice and tidy now. No lose wires or exposed connections and fuses. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1219141931a_zps0waxnzvx.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1219141931a_zps0waxnzvx.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1219141931a-1_zpsjcu7rsbm.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1219141931a-1_zpsjcu7rsbm.jpg.html)
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Ok So I've been thinking about the 500 crank again. If I can use the 77mm stroke 500 twin crank in my 700 case and use a piston with a 73mm, that will give me 644.55cc of displacement. That will put me in the 650cc class for Bonneville. The record for M-650-PG is only 123.983mph. Tom, do you think this is achievable if I have my cams ground to .360ish and get my cylinder pressure to about 200psi?
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Your really moving it along Scottie,looking really good. ERC
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Ok So I've been thinking about the 500 crank again. If I can use the 77mm stroke 500 twin crank in my 700 case and use a piston with a 73mm, that will give me 644.55cc of displacement. That will put me in the 650cc class for Bonneville. The record for M-650-PG is only 123.983mph. Tom, do you think this is achievable if I have my cams ground to .360ish and get my cylinder pressure to about 200psi?
Maybe, but most likely it would be a little short especially at Bonneville.
If you built the engine perfect, to use all the flow in those heads, you could get near 60hp at the crank.
That Triumph that I pictured on the other thread has 60 crank hp @ 7100 rpm, and it holds the ECTA record for 650 pushrod gas, and it can do about 121mph at the Ohio mile. At Bonneville, the speed would be slower.
So, based on that, I think it would come up short. But, you might get lucky, and get a little more than expected. That's what makes racing interesting.
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OK, was just curious. Thanks Ace.
Went to swap my front end today and realized that the hubs on the 2 wheels are different, and are not just spacers on the axle. So I kept the Trailblazer front end on and cleaned up the legs a bit and replaced the fork oil. I did get the handlebars installed and put the tank on to see how things look.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1221141252c_zpsxugrgvnt.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1221141252c_zpsxugrgvnt.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1221141252a_zpsdtgwhiuj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1221141252a_zpsdtgwhiuj.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1221141251a_zpslcw6fewj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1221141251a_zpslcw6fewj.jpg.html)
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The last of the goodies for now. I returned the tether kill switch because it had the wrong positioning, and I didn't like how the tether attached to the switch. So instead I replaced it with this slick little micro switch. Also got some new grips and and some new levers. I'm going to have to replace the cable ends tho because the cables have the old school large barrels on them and the new levers have 5/16" holes. I could drill out the levers I suppose.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1222141801_zps21fplqgj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1222141801_zps21fplqgj.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1222141800_zpsw0tcrdcl.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1222141800_zpsw0tcrdcl.jpg.html)
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Got the controls installed this morning. Just need to change the cable ends to 5/16" barrels and the front end is done. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1223140710_zpstt7elldb.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1223140710_zpstt7elldb.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1223140710a_zpsjiplygdq.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1223140710a_zpsjiplygdq.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1223140710b_zpsbmfgiwny.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1223140710b_zpsbmfgiwny.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1223140710c_zps8uo3jlqq.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1223140710c_zps8uo3jlqq.jpg.html)
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Looking very cool!
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Ok I lied. I need to make the front fork brace, chop the fender and mount it to the new brace, install sealed wheel bearings (eventually, the stock are fine for now) and THEN the front end is done. Anyway, I was adding receipts to the envelope, and decided to pull them all out. I somehow acquired all of these in 2 years time. ::)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1223142112a_zpsrxdl66g2.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1223142112a_zpsrxdl66g2.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1223142107a_zpsgy5bwct4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1223142107a_zpsgy5bwct4.jpg.html)
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With a suitable resin you could probably laminate quite a decent front fender using all those Hitchcock invoices!
Given the lean mean style you are aiming for, I wonder if the flatter headlamp shell off a '71 Triumph Bonnie would suit the look better on a pair of shortened headlamp brackets. Normally I like the stock headlamp, but that looks a bit too big with those skimpy brackets.
Just a thought.
A.
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Ohhhh, Scotty - don't add them up, whatever you do!
People ask me how long it takes to make a hurdy-gurdy - I honestly answer that I don't know, I've never kept track. The last thing I want to know is how much I make by the hour on those things!
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Yeah I'm definitely NOT going to add them up. And LOL @ Adrian. ;D
Fork brace is fabbed up! Maybe I'll paint it on lunch. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1224140730a_zpsuifrsrhq.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1224140730a_zpsuifrsrhq.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1224140731_zpsjgptqlk8.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1224140731_zpsjgptqlk8.jpg.html)
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Thoughts on the fender mount? ???
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1224141046a_zpsj0kycidf.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1224141046a_zpsj0kycidf.jpg.html)
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??? suggests you're not convinced. It looks kinda weird to me. For a cafe racer I'd want the front fender to sit close to the front tire. The fork brace just looks brutal, I get that you want something tough to keep the fork legs in line, but something with more of a curve around the top (harder to make, of course) would suit the bike better. Not being a metal worker, I don't know if there's some way of putting a curve into a length of box section or whether it would need a load of cut'n'shut welding.
Anyway, my views are only so much hot air, do YOU like it?
Regards,
A.
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I don't have the tooling to bend boxed steel. I know it looks overkill, but I want it super solid, I think it will look better once I get it painted, plus it weighs less than 2 pounds. I like the brace, it's more of the fender position. I can get it a little bit closer, maybe another 1". I wanted to mount it under the brace but then it was damn near rubbing the tire.
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Just a thought - could you possibly re-fab the brace to allow for the fender to mount under it??? The brace would look a bit more refined with some sort of rounded feature on the top for sure.
Bike is looking badass man!
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I don't know Scottie, but it seems to me the curve of the fender should line up with and follow the curve of the tire... and I'd like to see the middle of the fender line up somewhere around the middle of the forks - more symmetrical. Just my $0.02
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Mount the fender forward of the forks, low to the tire, like the superbikes have.
The way it is in the picture above, it's like an aerodynamic parachute, with huge amount of drag. Also, it is acting like a scoop that is right in front of the engine, directing the cooling air downward and away from the cooling fins.
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Thanks for the feedback guys. :)
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I had a very fun and productive couple hours after work today. I took the exhaust off of the Chief and fabricated it into a 2-into-1 exhaust! I was a little nervous about cutting up the exhaust because I was afraid once I started welding the pipe it would just start burning up. But it came out really great! The metal took the welds very nicely, and I even ended up with a better flow angle than the original 2-1 exhaust that came on the Connies. I'm very happy with the results and I can't wait to hear what it sounds like!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1229141602_zpsdgjch8gi.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1229141602_zpsdgjch8gi.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1229141602a_zpslhfsc5ky.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1229141602a_zpslhfsc5ky.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1229141604a_zps4tzj430z.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1229141604a_zps4tzj430z.jpg.html)
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Ace - Feel free to add your feed back on the current design of the exhaust. For reference, here is a pic of how the Connie exhaust is designed:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/ConnieExhaust_zps0d304e55.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/ConnieExhaust_zps0d304e55.jpg.html)
I wanted the left side pipe to "Y" into the left pipe to flow as fluent as possible, as to get good scavenging and not have the flow restricted anywhere. I tried to keep the length of the right pipe as close as possible to the length of the left pipe where they "Y" together too. I will measure them tomorrow to see how close I actually got. Also the welds are very smooth and there is no "shittiness" on the insides where I welded. My one question tho is overall length. I know that extremely short pipes will burn out exhaust valves. Right now with the current configuration, the exhaust tip is exiting about 5-7" behind the rear axle. Is there any disadvantages to having a longer pipe if it is free flowing? Are there any flaws in my current design?
Oh, and one more advantage to this set up...... No more oil dripping on my hot exhaust and smoke screening every stop light!!!!! ;D
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Lookin' real good Scottie!
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I had a very fun and productive couple hours after work today. I took the exhaust off of the Chief and fabricated it into a 2-into-1 exhaust!
Sorry for the nursery school question here, but... what's the benefit of 2-into-1, vs. just having 2 individual pipes, which is how I assume your bike was designed?
Other than the smoke issue... ;)
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Sorry for the nursery school question here, but... what's the benefit of 2-into-1, vs. just having 2 individual pipes, which is how I assume your bike was designed?
Other than the smoke issue... ;)
On performance applications for multi-cylinder engines, typically an exhaust where all exhaust head pipes join in a "collector" or "Y-pipe" will help with HP efficiency. This efficiency is maximized even further when all the primary tubes (or exhaust head pipes) are the same length, this is known as equal length headers. "Scavenging" is something that happens internally in the exhaust flow itself. Ace, will have a better definition of all of this, but basically, it is the act of exhaust gases flowing happily while helping the other cylinder/s pull in fresh fuel as the firing cylinder spits out a fresh charge of exhaust gas.
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I think it looks good, Scotttie. I don't have any info on that engine regarding where to put the junction, but it will probably do you some good in general. It might be better at some rpms than others. I do think it seems to be a better flow design than that Connie pipe that you pictured.
Anyway, for Mattsz, the twin pipes are designed to augment the performance by assisting extraction of exhaust from the cylinders. The better the exhaust is extracted, the more room for fresh mixture coming in. So, cylinder fill is better.
The way it works is that the exhaust stream from one cylinder is moving down the pipe, and this exhaust has mass and speed, so there is a partial vacuum zone right behind the end of the exhaust stream from that one cylinder. The idea is to open the exhaust valve of the other cylinder AFTER the exhaust stream from the first cylinder has passed the junction, so that the partial vacuum from the first cylinder's exhaust stream creates a suction of the exhaust out of the second cylinder, thus helping it empty quicker and more effectively. Then, the exhaust stream from the second cylinder does the same help to the first cylinder as it passes the junction in the pipes, lending the suction following its exhaust to help evacuate the first cylinder. They take turns assisting the opposite cylinder. Obviously, these are timed events, and any fixed lengths of exhaust pipes will only be optimal for a certain rpm range, and you would want to tune it for the max hp or max tq ranges, depending on what you are doing with the engine. But, it typically will do some good in the other rpm ranges too, by generally keeping exhaust speeds up thru the single outlet pipe.
Plus, it saves a lot of weight by only having one muffler, and only one-and-a-half pipes.
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Makes sense to me. Is that the reason for the exhaust header crossover pipe that my old airhead BMW sported?
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Makes sense to me. Is that the reason for the exhaust header crossover pipe that my old airhead BMW sported?
Perhaps to a small extent, but those "ladder rung" style crossover pipes mostly just serve to equalize exhaust pressure to share between the dual mufflers.
Performance 2-into-1 pipes have junctions more like Scottie's, where both pipes aim rearward at the junction for better flow and provides better results of the kind I described. In some cases on street bikes, the junction location may be a compromise because of physical limitations of where it is easiest to put the junction, and the fact that there is a wide powerband for street riding, so you don't want to severely influence one particular rpm range like a race engine would want.
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Thanks guys... carry on, Scottie!
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Front fender mount round 2.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1230140738a_zpsz8qpmzwj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1230140738a_zpsz8qpmzwj.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/1230140738_zpssvnbhr0n.jpg)[/URL (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/1230140738_zpssvnbhr0n.jpg.html)
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Also, here's a video close up the exhaust work.
Custom Enfield Twin Exhaust: http://youtu.be/amqVHTS6HgQ
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I totally cant afford this right now, but I REALLY want it. 8)
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/4-inch-chrome-with-black-face-legendary-motorcycles-electronic-gps-speedometer-tachometer.html
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Ace - I was looking into E85 a little bit more and I came across this article. I thought you'd enjoy it.
http://www.classiccarbsandmore.com/carbs/page13.html
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Yes. You have to build and tune the engine specifically to use E85. Higher than normal compression is mandatory, and the fuel system must be jetted much richer, and will be subjected to some corrosion and some rubber won't take it, and it will only get about 1/2-2/3 of the fuel economy.
Cold starting in winter could be difficult.
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Regarding your question about methanol the other day, I researched it, and you can blend it with gasoline like they do with ethanol, if you want to. Same basic rules apply to increase compression and tune rich to get any real value from it.
Even more corrosive than ethanol. Stainless tank and lines recommended, or drain and flush out between uses.
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Yeah I read that too. After that read I'm thinking my best bet is to stick to my old plan of what I have been doing, mixing 20 ounces of gun wash (toluene, xylene, and acetone) per 5 gallons of gas. Maybe I'll increase that ratio to 10 ounces per gallon. I'm hoping after the new head gaskets I should be around 160psi cylinder pressure.
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Yeah I read that too. After that read I'm thinking my best bet is to stick to my old plan of what I have been doing, mixing 20 ounces of gun wash (toluene, xylene, and acetone) per 5 gallons of gas. Maybe I'll increase that ratio to 10 ounces per gallon. I'm hoping after the new head gaskets I should be around 160psi cylinder pressure.
The best octane booster that you can buy is "Octane Supreme" with tetraethyl lead. It seems fairly expensive, but you only use an ounce or two at a time, and it really boosts it up high. This makes it easy to carry the bottle in your bike on trips. Chumma uses it all the time, and he runs about 168psi compression in his Fireball.
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Ok, I will look into that product. Thanks.
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Well no wonder my bike was running like shit on the last 2 rides. 50psi on the left side and 0psi on the right side. :-\
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Just a reminder, hopefully not needed, that tetraethyl lead is highly toxic, careful guys! :o
Yes, I know it was the classic anti-knock additive for years on both sides of the pond in the days of leaded gas and many of us will have been exposed to it to some extent, but if you're using that stuff don't neglect the health and safety advice that comes with it.
Regards,
A.
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Just a reminder, hopefully not needed, that tetraethyl lead is highly toxic, careful guys! :o
Yes, I know it was the classic anti-knock additive for years on both sides of the pond in the days of leaded gas and many of us will have been exposed to it to some extent, but if you're using that stuff don't neglect the health and safety advice that comes with it.
Regards,
A.
Just wear a gasmask when riding!
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LOL, I actually have a gas mask that I bought from an army surplus quite a few years ago. It's no longer functional as an actual gas mask because I gutted a lot of the valves, filters and internal stuff so I could use it for a Halloween costume without suffocating, but it still looks cool. I keep thinking I should get some vacuum cleaner hose and hook the gas mask up to my bong. ;D
But just for the record, if you reuse head gaskets, they only hold up for about 3 or 4 hours of riding before they blow out. Apparently. ;)
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Alright, being that I am sending out payment on Monday for my custom seat pan, I figured I can unveil the name of my sponsor. And it is...........
Bedlam Werks out of Athens, GA!!!!!
You can check out their work at their website here. :)
http://bedlamwerks.com/
And because I know you're dying to know, here are their logos that will be going on my gastank and possibly seat cowl.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/bedlam%20werks%20transparent_zps9e89ikzd.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/bedlam%20werks%20transparent_zps9e89ikzd.png.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/bedlam%20bomb%20transparent_zpsniwybkyj.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/bedlam%20bomb%20transparent_zpsniwybkyj.png.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/bedlam%20custom%20motorcycle%20parts%20transparent-8x8_zps5ao43v3c.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/bedlam%20custom%20motorcycle%20parts%20transparent-8x8_zps5ao43v3c.png.html)
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Just spoke with Travis at Bedlam Werks and fabrication on my seat pan will start this week. Hopefully will have some sketches of the seat before the end of the week. :D
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Just spoke with Travis at Bedlam Werks and fabrication on my seat pan will start this week. Hopefully will have some sketches of the seat before the end of the week. :D
Will it massage your ass or will the engine do that like my bike? ;)
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Will it massage your ass or will the engine do that like my bike? ;)
Hahaha! Dork. ;)
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Well, I have some good news that will be of interest to many Enfield riders.........
So, I've been exploring other fork brace options because I have been getting negative feed back on my design on the Land Racing forum. I came across a company called Fast From The Past that specializes in vintage/classic motorcycle racing parts. They have a huge selection of fork braces, I'd say over 100, and a spec and application sheet. So I printed it out and took it to work yesterday only to discover that while the right specs were listed for what I need, just not together on the same brace. So I called the owner and explained what I had going on and asked if he could mix and match parts to make one work. He said no problem and that he does it all the time for customers with odd ball bikes like Enfields. I'm sending him some pics this morning and he is going to take a look next week to match up the parts I need. This is great news for us Performance orientated RE guys because they only charge $99 a brace! I'll keep you guys updated with more details when I get them. :)
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So, I've been exploring other fork brace options because I have been getting negative feed back on my design on the Land Racing forum.
Really? What's not to love about it? ;D Never mind, I'm sure you can find a use for it! :P
Seriously though, I'm glad you're onto something with a bit more style after all your hard work getting the rest of the bike "just so". I look forward to seeing what your supplier comes up with. As you you rightly point out, some of our other Enfields could possibly use a good fork brace, not just the cafe racers, and I can't help thinking it ought to be possible to improve on the Hitchcock version as well.
Regards,
A.
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Picked up a roll of black header wrap after work today. Now if only I could find a shop that can expand 1.5" pipe. :-\ I think tomorrow I'm going to start cutting up my primary cover, see how artsy fartsy I can get with it. 8)
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Finished the Y joint and got the pipes wrapped today.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0109151428_zpsvy6qdkqv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0109151428_zpsvy6qdkqv.jpg.html)
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Have you considered a belt drive primary/clutch Scottie?
Epic response and no oil leaks, you can get real arty with it then, I'm going to Drill '59' in a circle with counter sunk holes, wire gauze behind it, with slots cut the other end. For airflow over alternator.
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I can't afford a belt drive right now. But I am converting it to a dry clutch system. I've been meaning to start on that, I will sometime next week. But I'll be doing an array of different cut holes around the clutch and alternator areas of the primary cover. I'll probably play around on the computer this weekend and get an idea of what I want to do with it.
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I don't know why you couldn't just spray the primary chain with chain lube like you use on the rear chain to keep it lubricated. They make clutch plates that run dry or wet if I remember correctly. ERC
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I don't know why you couldn't just spray the primary chain with chain lube like you use on the rear chain to keep it lubricated. They make clutch plates that run dry or wet if I remember correctly. ERC
That's exactly what I planned to do. I was speaking to Ace about this not too long ago and we came to that conclusion. Spray chain oil on the primary chain, lightly grease the bearings in the clutch and the alternator itself every few weeks. After I cut cooling holes in the primary cover I will epoxy steel mesh/screen on the backside of the holes to prevent foreign debris from entering the primary. It won't be a belt drive, but it should significantly improve the clutch holding.
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Hi Scottie,
In theory, the chain lube idea seems good and I tried it just over 10 years back on R.E. 500 No1, in an attempt to stop the clutch slipping when we were just getting started with the racing. I found that the primary chain would be almost completely dry and starting to get stiff after a race and there would be lots of greasy mess all around the inside of the primary cases and the clutch ran hotter and dragged more in any case. The primary chain spins much faster than that on the final drive, so oil fling is much more of a problem. Old No1 is now a fast road going café racer and fitted with a Newby belt drive and clutch. No2 was built to take over the racing duties and has morphed into the F.A.B. and this too, runs the Newby set up. The only wet clutch we run is in our 350 racer and this has a Burton Bikes alloy splined clutch basket, which gives very good service, is light to use, with no slip or drag and costs a fraction of the Newby ;)
B.W.
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That isn't what I wanted to hear. And I can't find a RE clutch basket on Burton bikes. Plus I have a scissor clutch, so I don't think there is anyway to upgrade the basket anyhow. :-\
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The Burton Bikes clutch basket is made to the Interceptor pattern and uses the splined friction plates from those models, but I don't know if you will want to know that either :-\
B.W.
http://www.burtonbikebits.net/alloy_hard_anodized_splined_clut.htm
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So it looks like that would work with the scissor clutch as it only replaces the basket and plates. If so I may go that route, but at $400 USD I might as well save another $250 abd get the Newby belt drive.
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The prices they quote for the U.K. are £117.60 for the basket and £33.36 for the set of friction plates, and I suppose shipping and taxes have to be added, but it surprises me that it would cost you 400 Dollars :o
B.W.
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I read 177 for the basket and 50 for the plates.....
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I was thinking last night.......... I wonder how hard it would be to to take a couple of timing pulleys, weld a large one to the clutch basket and weld a small to rotor and make my own belt drive. Pull the pressure plate bearing and replace it with a sealed bearing. The only thing I'm unsure about is the bearings on the basket itself. Granted, doing this would eliminate the alternator, but when you think about it, the electrical charging system has NOT worked more than it has worked on my bike. LOL
Sorry if I'm coming across as a PITA, I'm just trying to build this bike Burt Monroe style. Make as many parts as I can myself. I do still have a complete clutch assembly that came out of the Chief. IS there a "sizing" chart for belts as for the number and spacing of the cogs? I just know the timing belt on a Subaru looks very similar to the belt on the Newby drives, just longer.
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So my thought is that if the clutch basket can fit inside of the one of the cam pulleys, I can somehow mod the crank pulley to work with my crank pulley. All in theory of course.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Timingmarkslinedupteethsm_zps55be09ec.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Timingmarkslinedupteethsm_zps55be09ec.jpg.html)
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Ah Hah! Now we're talking!
http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300405940/
So it looks like I can have the crank pulley made to accept and slide right onto the alternator mounting stud with a key way. For the basket pulley, I'm pretty sure I can just grind off the existing sprocket teeth (if the tooth ring isn't pressed on) off of the basket, lay everything on a sheet of glass, shim the pulley so it is even and true around the whole basket, and then very carefully weld the pulley to the basket. At this point I believe the only issue I may have is the ball bearing track that the basket rides on. A coat of high performance synthetic grease should cure that issue. I think.....
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I just had another thought before I go head over heels building a belt drive (which I may still do). Royal Purple makes a high temp aluminum based synthetic wheel bearing grease. It has really good reviews and even has mentions in reviews of people using it in their clutch bearings in cars. I have used theirs oils and gear lubes in the past, and it is unreal crazy how much their oils free up moving parts. What if I was to use something like this on all the moving parts in the clutch assembly including the chain. Even if I had to tear down every few rides and degrease and regrease everything, I wouldn't mind that. But the primary chain getting dry, hot and tight concerns me. But I really think this might work, and it's only about $15 a tube.
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/ultra-performance-grease-upg/
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Most of the fling will go outward from the chain. Very little should get on the clutch. Mainly the grease on the clutch hub bearings is the concern. Use tenacious grease on that sparingly. The grease on the chain will help to keep the chain cooler because of less friction. You will need some air vents.
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This is my intentions for the primary cover.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/PrimaryMod_zps455af1d0.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/PrimaryMod_zps455af1d0.jpg.html)
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Ah Hah! Now we're talking!
http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300405940/
So it looks like I can have the crank pulley made to accept and slide right onto the alternator mounting stud with a key way. For the basket pulley, I'm pretty sure I can just grind off the existing sprocket teeth (if the tooth ring isn't pressed on) off of the basket, lay everything on a sheet of glass, shim the pulley so it is even and true around the whole basket, and then very carefully weld the pulley to the basket. At this point I believe the only issue I may have is the ball bearing track that the basket rides on. A coat of high performance synthetic grease should cure that issue. I think.....
If you could replace the steel bearings with ceramic you could run it dry.
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Put some thin gauze on them holes, I wanna watch that primary move!
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I ordered new composite head gaskets straight from Cometic. Best part is they are designed for the Interceptor so they will be the right size for my +.040 over bore and 3/8" head studs. :) For some reason, H's decided against using the composite gaskets for the Interceptor and stuck with the compression rings. Hopefully no more blow outs after these gaskets.
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Bedlam Werks started on my custom seat pan today!!! ;D
https://www.facebook.com/bedlam.werks
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/BedlamSeat1_zps24c7734c.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/BedlamSeat1_zps24c7734c.jpg.html)
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Just received a phone call going over final measurements for the seat pan before welding it up and finishing it. She's a fatty compared to Jap bikes. ;D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/IMG_4607156906218_zps4mbmxaiq.jpeg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/IMG_4607156906218_zps4mbmxaiq.jpeg.html)
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I'm considering making a custom ram air intake out of sheet metal. This is just a rough sketch, but do you think something like this would be functional?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/RamAirIntake_zpsb6a72112.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/RamAirIntake_zpsb6a72112.png.html)
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Yes.
It's far from ideal, but it will give some effect. Design of a real efficient system of that type is very complex.
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What changes would you recommend to make it more effective and efficient?
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As a next step, it could help to bring the air duct to the front, to capture cooler air. Then you avoid any heated air off the engine. Every 10 degrees that you lower the intake air temp is worth about 1hp. This would be especially important in thin air, where you are.
Then, ramming gains can be improved with a waisted duct that accelerates the air in the duct, and then pressurizes the airbox via a good diffusor shape for pressure recovery. And finally tuning it as a Helmholtz resonator at key frequencies to work at the engine rpms you want, would be very helpful.
I'd say that is a good month's worth of hard studying and fabrication practice.
You will need to fine tune it with "cut and try" methods because calculations normally get you close but experimentation most often yields added improvement. And it can(and often does) create modes and nodes at other harmonic frequencies which may cause torque dips or even sputtering at certain other rpms, usually around half the tuned rpm range. In a race bike, this is usually acceptable because the unwanted harmonics are lower in rpm than the power band you will be using.
The structure must be strong and rigid or the pressure pulses will work it like a bellows, and it will fail.
Finally, to reduce aero drag effects at speed, the inlet opening of the duct should be no larger than necessary to get the desired result. Locating it so that it does not protrude out in areas outside the effective aerodynamic frontal area of the bike will help, and if it can be faired into a fairing with a smooth entry transition, that would also be good.
This can be some very complex work.
If you do it all really well, it can get you about 2 psi supercharging results, without a supercharger.
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Would it be better to design the intake with 2" exhaust pipe ducted up to the headlight area?
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Would it be better to design the intake with 2" exhaust pipe ducted up to the headlight area?
It depends on the situation. If the bike is going to be unfaired, it could probably go right alongside the engine, down near the primary case, so it is well clear of that side's exhaust header.
As for the length and diameter, that depends on the calculations.
I'd put a larger diameter scoop on the inlet, like maybe a half inch larger.
Generally, it should be as straight as possible, and not excessively long. I think it would be too convoluted to get it near the headlight.
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The 72mm bore .059 thick composite gaskets are being shipped out this afternoon. Looks like I might be finished with the build by the end of the month. :)
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The seat pan is finished and being shipped out today!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/20150115_160704_zpsr7agp4gb.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/20150115_160704_zpsr7agp4gb.jpg.html)
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Looks great!
8)
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Man, I am super excited! The heads are scheduled for delivery today, the head gaskets are scheduled for Monday, and I should see my seat any time next week. Looks like next week is going to be very busy for me. :D
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wasnt there someone else on here who posted a picture of a ram air?
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I turned down the charging rotor on the bosses HF large with a hand file. I have much better clearence now, tho the stator is only being held on by 2 bolts because one of them broke off of the mounting ring.
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Just when I thought it was time to start putting the top end together and get ready to finish this project, I come upon more issues. After disassembling the heads on Monday, letting them sit in gun wash overnight and thoroughly de-coking them yesterday, I wasn't impressed by the condition of the seats. So after work, I stopped by Heads By Drew, who I've mentioned before and is the most reputable head guy in the Denver metro. Upon thorough investigation of the heads and valves of the cores I received, the exhaust guides are worn, exhaust valve stems are worn, tops of the valve stems were hammered all to hell, the valve faces have already been reground, and the seats in the heads are pretty well hammered. :(
We came to the conclusion that I basically have 2 options; go thru my other heads and just make the best 2 heads I can with all the parts and say screw it, lap the valves and pray for the best, or spend $400 some dollars and completely rebuild the heads. Being that my budget is completely fizzled out already, I guess I'll be cobbling a pair of heads together and praying for the best. I assume replacing valve guides is completely pointless without replacing the valves too, and of course the exhaust valves are the more expensive of the two. Also, I told Drew that I wanted to have the heads completely rebuilt or spend no money at all and hope for another season of riding, so he reground the valve stem tops so that I could reuse them if needed.
Tom, your advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0120151500_zpskd7t1ggz.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0120151500_zpskd7t1ggz.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0120151500c_zpsqo34gxrb.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0120151500c_zpsqo34gxrb.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0120151501_zpsumqioxvi.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0120151501_zpsumqioxvi.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0120151502_zpsjgususnn.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0120151502_zpsjgususnn.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0120151501b_zpswon1blza.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0120151501b_zpswon1blza.jpg.html)
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Got the Emgo shocks installed this morning. I was skeptical because they are only 2" wide and very skinny compared to stock, tho they are listed for a Triumph 650. I offered $40 and he accepted. When I first installed them I put the preload on the 3rd notch and I couldn't even get the suspension to compress. So I lowered to the first notch and they feel really good. Only issue is that the extra 1/2" makes the center stand barely touch. So I'm going to weld some pieces of pipe to the bottom of the AVL stand I purchased over the summer until it's the correct height.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0121150644a_zpsscvip6vc.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0121150644a_zpsscvip6vc.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0121150645_zpsygxxxgjj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0121150645_zpsygxxxgjj.jpg.html)
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Looks to me like the seats are able to take a slight grind or lap, and be useable. Don't know about the valves. Sinking the valve a little deeper typically improves the flow a little anyway.
If it needs guides, then it needs them. Can't get around that. Take hold of the valve tip and see if you can wiggle it. If not, you are okay. If it does need guides, then you have to do a valve job because the concentricity will be different with the new guides by at least a few thousandths, and that is too much.
Maybe if there is enough room for a lash cap on them, you can get around the hammered tip issues.
If your budget is flat, then just lap them in by hand and go with what you have got. If it uses a little oil or smokes because of loose guide clearance, then you'll just have to live with it. Maybe if you can find stem seals that will fit, that would help.
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Ok, thanks Ace. That's pretty much exactly what Drew told me. Maybe I'll just lap the valves and call it good for now, and instead of doing the cams next, I'll have a set of heads done. Just guides, valves and seats should get me going. Right?
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Ok, thanks Ace. That's pretty much exactly what Drew told me. Maybe I'll just lap the valves and call it good for now, and instead of doing the cams next, I'll have a set of heads done. Just guides, valves and seats should get me going. Right?
That would get you back to "square 1" as a stock set of heads. New springs wouldn't hurt.
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What would say $500 get me for head work?
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Given the cost of shipping the heads back and forth, it would not be worth it to do that. We could not do what you need for that. That's $250 per head, and if you need guides and seats and a valve job, that's already over your budget and valves and springs aren't even in that.
Twins are expensive . I recommend getting them going, and saving up a proper budget to get them done. It would save a lot of shipping money to get it done locally, and that stuff can be done by any decent head guy. If you want performance work, that should come to us.
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Ok thanks Tom.
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Cheap way out is to knurle the valve guides. ERC
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Not needed! I attached a cordless drill to the tops of the valve stems and pushed in and out in 1 second intervals while spinning them. All said and done and valve train reassembled...... No leaks!!! :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0121151115_zps1bhxsvcz.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0121151115_zps1bhxsvcz.jpg.html)
Here's what the valves looked like after Drew ground the tops of them.(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0121151041_zps05n49na1.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0121151041_zps05n49na1.jpg.html)
And even better, look what showed up today!(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0121151120a_zpsfitufres.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0121151120a_zpsfitufres.jpg.html)
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Knurling makes the valve stem tighter in the guide. So the valve doesn't wobble. I thought the guy said you needed guides because of this. ERC
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Oh, I see what you're saying now. They honestly weren't worn as bad as I thought, they do have some play, but I think they should get me thru the summer. :)
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That's good. Generally if they are loose you'll get more oil running down the stem and fouling the plugs. ERC
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And even better, look what showed up today!(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0121151120a_zpsfitufres.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0121151120a_zpsfitufres.jpg.html)
Lookin' good!
Is that the final positioning of the seat pan? It looks to be a bit down by the stern...
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Are you going to paint it?
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I'm really torn. I think it would look better painted, but I'm anti-chrome. But the seat is so freaking beautiful part of my wants to polish it.
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I'm really torn. I think it would look better painted, but I'm anti-chrome. But the seat is so freaking beautiful part of my wants to polish it.
So then have a mix of paint and polished metal ;)
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So then have a mix of paint and polished metal ;)
I considered that too. Maybe I'll just polish it for now and see how I like it. If it's too shiny, I'll go back and paint it. Tho it is already sanded at 320 and ready for paint now......
I didn't get a chance to fire the bike because I didn't have any fuel, but I did get the top end reassembled and ready to fire. With the exhaust and carb off, the right left cylinder is putting out 115 psi and the right is putting out 150 psi. I wish they were both 150 psi, but considering what I was working with, I think I'm doing pretty good! Also, with the exhaust fully mounted now, it is totally solid, no looseness anywhere at all. Not so much as a wiggle. So tomorrow I'll get her fired up and warmed up, and then do a hot torque on the head bolts and do another compression test. :)
Also, I modified the AVL center stand. Tho it doesn't raise the rear wheel off of the ground, it does sit solid on both feet (FINALLY) and the bike sits upright! The first time the bike has been able to do so in 25+ years! :D
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I didn't get a chance to fire the bike because I didn't have any fuel...
(http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/becca.gif)
I can't stand it! So close... can't wait to see and hear that baby come to life!
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I'll get some video today of the start up. And my leg is still sore from kicking thru the motor yesterday doing the compression test. Definitely more compression than it had before. It is actually a chore trying to get her over TDC.
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I know what you mean on the soreness...before I tried startup on the fireball, I even pushed it in gear for like 3/4 of a mile to try and prime the oil lines.
I'm sure you checked, but I'll ask--does the tire possibly interfere with the seat pan under full compression of the shocks?
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Check it out!!!!! 8)
The Blackhawk Start Up - Higher Compression: http://youtu.be/v0QXgQjKddw
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Check it out!!!!! 8)
The Blackhawk Start Up - Higher Compression: http://youtu.be/v0QXgQjKddw
Cool!
I like the sound of the new pipe.
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Me too, It's not nearly as loud as I expected.
Oh, and when I did the hot torque, 1 inner head nut was about 6 turns from torque, so hopefully that is where the 115psi came from.
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Great!
Only, I like the other fuel tank better... ;)
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Awesome news! After the hot torque, cold compression test shows 148psi on the left cylinder and 151psi on the right!
Also, here is another video of the second start up. I somehow deleted the first start up.
http://youtu.be/igoKPYlbRtk
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Nice job Scottie. ERC
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Awesome news! After the hot torque, cold compression test shows 148psi on the left cylinder and 151psi on the right!
Sounds great and it's good to hear it running again. :)
I know you don't want to hear this but after you get it all back together, how about riding it just for the sake of riding?
You've got one of the coolest bikes in Colarado so you don't have to prove anything to anyone.
What I'm getting at is, if you just run it easy it will last thru all of next summer and beyond.
If you ride it like you stole it, it won't make it thru the first month of the riding season. After all, this is a 58 year old bike and when the Royal Enfield 700's and 750's were brand new they weren't known for their strengths.
In fact, because of their engine design they were known for their weaknesses like blowing their head gaskets.
Ride it cool and easy and enjoy!
Yah. I know. I'm an old stick in the mud but, playing in the mud is still a hell of a lot of fun.
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Celebrating the REbirth of the Blackhawk.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0122151653_zpsdtayjosz.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0122151653_zpsdtayjosz.jpg.html)
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Celebrating the REbirth of the Blackhawk.
Irish whiskey?!? Scottish ale?!? :o
;D
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Irish whiskey?!? Scottish ale?!? :o
;D
I'm Scottish and German. I like strong beer and good whiskey when I celebrate. ;)
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Nothing worse than being Scottish and German. OOPS that's me too. :P ERC
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Nothing worse than being Scottish and German. OOPS that's me too. :P ERC
Hahaha!!!!! So that's why we have so much in common. ;D
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Got the new Dunstall installed, courtesy of Ducati Scotty. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Screenshot_2015-01-23-08-41-28_zps7az1uf5x.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Screenshot_2015-01-23-08-41-28_zps7az1uf5x.png.html)
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This is looking really nice without a lot of money invested. Hard to believe all the work you've put in this. Great job Scottie. ERC
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Video of the Dunstall Exhaust.
Dunstall Exhaust: http://youtu.be/3i2h4BlEYW0
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Scottie what ignition did you use? The pipe sounds great. ERC
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It's the ThorSpark conversion. Replaces the points plate with a trigger plate. And thanks!
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All freaking right!!! Between before clocking in for work, clocking out for lunch, and after work, I GOT A LOT DONE TODAY!!! :D
So Ducati Scotty sent me a brand new Dunstall that he had bought for his Bullet before he sold it but never installed it. So a huge thank you to him for helping me complete the classic race exhaust! ;) I welded it directly the head pipe, since I always remove the exhaust with the muffler attached anyway, and gave it a nice little kick out. It comes back and exits even with the rear tire and is 66" in total length. Scott had already packed the core with fiberglass, and while extremely quiet, it chocked the motor out so bad the bike didn't want to run or even rev. So after consulting with Ace on the phone I decided to remove all the fiberglass and cut the down to a mere 3" in length, compared to 24". The throttle response it crisp and has a real nice bark out the exhaust. I am really liking the new exhaust as a whole, and between that, the heads, and the dry clutch set up (attempt) I am super excited to get out for a test ride. ;D
And after work today I got the new Bedlam Werks seat pan installed on the bike.... Fucking Sexy! 8)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0123151749_zps87gbtfv4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0123151749_zps87gbtfv4.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0123151750_zpszde95qt7.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0123151750_zpszde95qt7.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0123151750a_zpsooayqbo4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0123151750a_zpsooayqbo4.jpg.html)
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Its looking good, I am quite jealous, mine is on hold for a little while as I need another set of pushrods, (an issue of clearance, not mechanical).
Its nice to see good mix of nationalities, Irish/French myself and the other half is Scottish.
I look forward to a video of a ride out.
Kevin
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Video of the Dunstall Exhaust.
Oh, yes. That's better. Much quieter now... ;D
And, that seat pan looks like it's where it should be, too! It's looking really good, my man!
I'm Scottish and German. I like strong beer and good whiskey when I celebrate. ;)
Its nice to see good mix of nationalities, Irish/French myself and the other half is Scottish.
On a train from London to Manchester, an American was berating the
Englishman sitting across from him in the compartment. "You English are too
stuffy. You set yourselves apart too much. You think your stiff upper lips
make your above the rest of us. Look at me...I'm me, I have Italian blood,
French blood, a little Indian blood, and some Swedish blood. What do you say
to that?"
The Englishman replied, "Very sporting of your mother."
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Hahahaha! That's a good one Matt. ;D
I was sitting here and started thinking "how long has it actually taken to get off my ass and complete this project?" I started this Thread on May 31, 2014, started the initial work on June 14 but then the project stalled out until November. But from November 26 until now, I have somehow squeezed in about 40 or 50 hours of work here and there before and after work. Essentially, I went from having basically a non-functioning bike that broke down ride after ride all last year, to completely building an entirely new bike! Granted I'm not officially 100% done yet, but I have very little left to finish. I just need to polish the seat, make a pad for it (maybe this weekend or next) and seal the gas tank and I think I'm done. It's hard to believe that it has already been exactly 3 months since I tore the bike apart and now it's almost back together again. :D
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Scotty - I admire your persistence, and ability to get so much done just working "around the edges", when you can. I thought I'd keep building instruments this way... but it's been 5 years since I've done anything constructive on that front...
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My BFF John and I have been discussing building several custom guitars and starting an Ebay store. He found the direct source warehouse in China that sells the "kit guitars" that you see on the internet. There is about 100 different body styles to choose from and you can choose any combination of wood in the body and neck. Some kits are even thru neck designs. The kits are anywhere from $50 up to about $125, spend another $100-$200 on quality electronics and about $150 in paint materials. Hoping to sell them for $500-$1000 depending on what we build. We've been talking about this for a couple of years now, but we may just pull the trigger this year. :)
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Scotty,
The bike looks good from every angle. Good "stance" and the sound from the exhaust is de-VINE!
Thanks for bringing us along for the ride. You're a real inspiration.
Chuck.
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Thanks Chuck! I sure would like to get one of the feather bed frames under my seat some day. :) I'm excited to see how your bike is going to turn out too!
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My BFF John and I have been discussing building several custom guitars and starting an Ebay store. He found the direct source warehouse in China that sells the "kit guitars" that you see on the internet. There is about 100 different body styles to choose from and you can choose any combination of wood in the body and neck. Some kits are even thru neck designs. The kits are anywhere from $50 up to about $125, spend another $100-$200 on quality electronics and about $150 in paint materials. Hoping to sell them for $500-$1000 depending on what we build. We've been talking about this for a couple of years now, but we may just pull the trigger this year. :)
You'll be fighting with the gazillions of other guitar makers out there for market share.
Grab their attention with good design and finish work, as I'm sure you can. Make a decent guitar - do the electronics and intonation right - and they'll tell all their friends, and hopefully come back for more!
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Yep! Everyone loves John's "pot" guitar, and it was rather easy to put that one together. John is really good at truing necks and setting the intonation and we're both good at electronics. We could always go to local music stores and sell them directly to the stores too I suppose. :)
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Need opinions. My bike is ready for a test ride except I never sealed the inside of tank. Do you think I developed any pinholes pounding on it off do you think I'm good to fill it and ride?
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Need opinions. My bike is ready for a test ride except I never sealed the inside of tank. Do you think I developed any pinholes pounding on it off do you think I'm good to fill it and ride?
Stick a flashlight into the filler hole in a dark room ? ::)
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From what I can see the inside looks pretty good. Most of the dents look rolled and not pinched. I think I'm ok, just wanted others' thoughts.
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I'd seal it. ERC
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No way for us to tell.
You have to make the call.
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I filled it, so far so good. Went for a couple shakedown runs. I think I need to increase the collector to 2", she dogs out up top. Nice and smooth down low tho. I also had to remove the baffle, too much back pressure.
What do you think of the seat?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0126151004a_zpsrylwewft.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0126151004a_zpsrylwewft.jpg.html)
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I've been thinking today I think part of my problem is that I'm in need of new carb tuning. With the new longer 2-1 exhaust I think that it is not quite as free flowing as before, plus scavenging better drawing in more fuel than it was before. I got to thinking of the characteristics; lack of power over half throttle, banging in the exhaust, and an occasional pop. Also few times it was surging when I returned after a short ride, tho I made sure I had no intake or exhaust leaks. I played with the timing a little and got it where it kicks rights over, and doesn't ping but just isn't running right. I'm thinking of dropping a main jet or 2 and maybe dropping the needle from the bottom notch to the middle. It has always been a little lean in the pilot jet, and to the best of my knowledge it is not changeable on the 930, so I'm not worried about there. I didn't get a chance to check the plugs.
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She's telling you she wants more fuel over half, start with the needle, if it fixes up 1/4-3/4, your on the right track, then fiddle with the main.
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Seat pad is finished.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0127150710_zps2mzl4iim.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0127150710_zps2mzl4iim.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0127150710a_zpssmphpg6k.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0127150710a_zpssmphpg6k.jpg.html)
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Is that a breather catch can on the left side? ERC
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Is that a breather catch can on the left side? ERC
Yes it is. Have to have a catch can to race any tracks around here.
I put 3 3mm washers under the needle. Fired on the first kick and it isn't banging in the exhaust revving it.
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is your needle clip busted? :p
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No, I needed it richer and was already at the richest position. In my discussions with Ace over the phone the last 2 days, we're coming to the the conclusion that my new exhaust system is scavenging/extracting the exhaust gases so well that it is causing the entire fuel range to be lean.
This evening I pulled the plug out of #1 and found TDC and marked it off on the stator and rotor. Then I warmed the bike up and and hit it with a strobe light, but unfortunately I lost my compass and couldn't mark off 30*, but it sounded and felt like I have it pretty close. Anyway, the 930 is just way too lean in idle and I can't change it, so I'm going to rebuild my good Monobloc and throw that on there.
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Had the bike sitting outside for a couple hours at about 45°F, started on the 2nd kick and started holding idle at about 850 rpms. :)
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This is what I decided for the primary cover. I ended up grinding it to match the seat. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0128151707a_zps4fgqzvms.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0128151707a_zps4fgqzvms.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0128151706_zpsrcfth9qs.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0128151706_zpsrcfth9qs.jpg.html)
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Sick!
Get that badboy in a magazine man!
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Nice, spray it with some chain lube and you're all set. When I think about it you may want to drill a hole in the lowest spot just in case you wash it or have to ride it in the rain. you don't want any puddle of water in there. ERC
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Very creative design for the shapes of the vents.
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That's a good idea ERC, thanks.
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I changed my exhaust on lunch. The bike had amazing low end torque but was a pooch up top. So I cut the exhaust off at the junction where it was 2" wide. Then I took a piece of 2" exhaust pipe from the scrap pile out back then smashed it oval to match the collector. Bike is performing really good now. Just need to get the timing and carb dialed in.
Enfield Dunstall Exhaust Version 2: http://youtu.be/f0uJiGM8NKg
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Sounds damn good Scottie. ERC
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Looks and sounds very very good. Only thing I might add if was mine, some accordion gator boots on the forks.
Otherwise, perfect ;D
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That's what it needed. Also being shorter overall length will help.
Let us know how it goes.
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Installing the 2" pipe really changed the tone of the bike. Much deeper with a mean growl.
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So yesterday after work I set the timing to 30* BTDC with a digital timing light. Turns out I was only a couple of degrees off from ping timing it. I went for a successful 20 mile ride without issues other than a few adjustments to the carb here and there. The exhaust really threw me for a loop tho for a couple of reasons: 1. The 2" exhaust gives the bike a completely different tone, much much deeper and more aggressive. Kind of sounds like a cross between a Jap bike and a HD. 2. With the left primary pipe being 19" and the right primary pipe being 15" long, it gets a very weird and unique exhaust note similar to a turbo Subaru WRX or STi. It causes to exhaust to sound lumpy, when in fact the exhaust notes are being emitted at different times due to being different lengths. But what really threw me off was the performance. As expected, the power range passed from low-mid range to high range. What I didn't expect was the actual effect it was going to have. Now when cruising, she is smooth but lacks power off of the line from a stop and lower rpms. What is crazy is that when the bike reaches about 4000 rpms, there's a power band that kicks in like a 2 stroke! Several times on the ride, holding about 3/4 throttle thru the gears, every time it hit about 4000 rpms, a wave power just came over the bike and started pulling real hard. I didn't really go WOT but there were a couple of times I hit about 60-70mph in 3rd gear and wasn't even at red line yet. :)
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This is what I was talking about on the phone.
This kind of exhaust tuning has effects on different rpm ranges where the exhaust system is most effective. You gain in some areas and lose in other areas. The key is to get what you want out of it.
The larger diameter shorter collector changes the exhaust tuning to a higher rpm, so that's where the strength shows up. Previously, you had a longer smaller diameter collector, so that helped gain torque in the lower rpms, for starting off from a stop. But it was restricted up top. Now it's more open and less restrictive, but it needs more rpms to get the pipe working.
This is what exhaust tuning is all about. And induction tuning too.
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H.O.O.
Don't forget to lube your primary chain. When your in top gear, it's traveling over 8 times faster than your drive chain.
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Arizoni, I'll be keeping a close eye on the chain. But so far is still "oily" and correct tension.
Here's a fly by video I took today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSfpy0anocQ&list=UUOuxT3uDOINbn5OmZ0BwRVA
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Sounds awesome Scottie. I'm glad to see this build is really coming together. Great work.
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Took the bike to run to the ATM yesterday at about 45*F and she was running pretty rich. Going to pull the slide and put a 3 cutaway slide back in and drop the needle back down and do some plug chops. Kind of hard tuning right now, weather keeps going back and forth from 30*F - 60*F.
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Supposed to be 60F today and close to 70F Friday and Saturday, so I'm going to try and ride up to Lookout Mountain tomorrow for some video and pics. Got the #3 slide installed on Tuesday and she fired right up. I'll try to get out for some plug chops on lunch today.
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I think I'm going to definitly be moving to Colorado. ERC
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This year has been extra crazy. Keeps going back and forth between snow and 20's to Sun and 60's. I'm going to get the camera charged up and try to mount it to the instrument area facing me and also set the camera on a few corners to get footage of me going around.
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Sounds awesome, Scottie :) !
The primary cover cut-outs, does it have any transparent covering ?
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No, the vents are wide open.
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Got out for a short ride yesterday after work. I didn't get a chance to do chops, was more of another shakedown run staying close to the shop. Bike seems to be running better all around with the carb changes; a lot less banging in the exhaust on decel, throttle response is crisper and starts ripping pretty good after 4000 rpms and more than half throttle.
Only 2 concerning issues I have; the catch can filled up faster than I expected, which I believe is due to minimal volume caused from the baffling inside the can, and I'm also getting some chatter from the clutch basket on decel. I think the the catch can filling up I am going to try and rectify by installing a small PCV valve immediately after the crank vent, before the catch can. The clutch I'm not too worried about, because it only chatters on decel, and I always remember a lot of noise coming from the primary cover before, so I'm beginning to think that they are just a noisy clutch design.
Any thoughts? :)
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Just checked the plugs, left cylinder was brownish with some carbon, right cylinder was all carbon. I dropped the needle from the middle to the lowest position. I'll go for a ride later and do chops.
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This damn pos Amal! >:( I just can't get the bike to run right. Then to top things off, as I'm going over timing a second time, the throttle slide hung up and damn near blew up my motor. Never ever will I buy another Amal carb.
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In the words of Tommy Lee Jones, "Get rid of that nickel-plated sissy pistol and get yourself a Glock."
(http://www.hoboes.com/library/graphics/movies/usmarshals/sissy.jpg)
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This damn pos Amal! >:( I just can't get the bike to run right. Then to top things off, as I'm going over timing a second time, the throttle slide hung up and damn near blew up my motor. Never ever will I buy another Amal carb.
I used to have the same problem on a Bonneville I had, it turned out that the carbs had been overtightened and distorted the bodies. I often had to ride on the kill switch, till I had worked out what was going on.
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I used to have the same problem on a Bonneville I had, it turned out that the carbs had been overtightened and distorted the bodies. I often had to ride on the kill switch, till I had worked out what was going on.
I was aware of the over-tightening problem early on as the original Monobloc was distorted. This is a brand new carb, only 2 years old, and has never been over-tightened. In fact, this carb has only been off of the intake manifold twice. And every time it has been tightened, it was just snug enough to be tight. I assume the throttle cable needs lubing, but I swear I just lubed it. And I honestly don't think that cable even has 500 miles on it yet, maybe a couple hundred. I replaced it last spring and only rode maybe a dozen short rides last year. I only bought the 930 Amal because I thought I HAD to have an Amal to make my bike run. Had I known then what I do now, I would have bought a Mikuni for half the price and none of the problems.
Regardless, NONE of this solves the severe hunting issue under hot idle. It will blurp up and down, then it will keep the idle at 2500 rpms and then dies. I'm just fed up with this damn thing.
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You do at least have some options, Amal Mk2 with chrome slide, Mikuni VM32 or TM32, perhaps even a TM33 with accelerator pump, Dell'Orto PHF32 (also with accelerator pump), perhaps an OKO flat slide or a pair of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111435145880
A.
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Normally, this post would start with a sailor's mouth and an angry face. But I've become so accustomed to this bike kicking my effing ass that I'm just going to laugh it off and get stoned. ;D ;D ;D
Fucktards, where do I even begin today? ??? I removed the throttle cable this afternoon, and it was indeed binding, for 2 reasons. First, the way I had it routed directly under the top frame tube it had started to develop slight kinks. Over time with the heat from the engine, it started to form in that shape and was restricting the movement. So I straightened it out and lubed the hell out of it the best you can with what you got, and rerouted it to run along the side of the frame tube to eliminate the hump for the head steady. Also, the slide spring had lost some of its tension, so I stretched it back out. All said and done throttle now works properly again. But still, once the engine gets hot, it starts to hunt.
Speaking of getting hot, next problem: Detonation. >:(
150psi cylinder pressure, timing at 29.8* BTDC at full advance, 87 octane fuel. When I started the bike this afternoon, it started on the first kick, cold, no throttle at all, and idled fine the entire time warming up until I left. Upon departure, bike was fine and felt fairly good. I believe the only noise I was hearing was the exhaust valve chirp that I often hear. As soon as the engine got full hot, it started detonating pretty significantly. So I limped it back to the shop, and again the motor was hunting. Brought it to TDC, and retarded to ignition rotor just a cunt hair, I'd guess 2-4*. Bike started right up, but was hunting, did another shakedown, and so far seemed like the best happy medium I've come to with an occasional ping. Said to myself "It's going to be in the 60's until Tuesday, I need to get some real miles on it, let's ride home." Set off and the bike seemed OK........ Until I got on the interstate.......
A whole NEW freaking problem!!! Bike won't go into 4th!!!!! >:( I had it in 4th a few days ago, tho I have noticed the shifts getting sloppier with the clutch upgrades. The clutch releases so completely now that I have to let the lever out a bit sometimes to get it into 1st. I ASSUME the shift ratchet has finally taken a total crap on me. I hope that is the issue and not the actual tranny going out. Fuck me running. :'(
Adrian, I'm on the prowl for a used Mikuni locally. I posted on a Facebook group today of what I want.
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Adrian:
Anything good or bad to say about a Wassell carb?
One of our GB friends sells these.
http://www.pricepartmotorcycles.co.uk/ourshop/prod_1912355-90450.html
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Jim, that looks like the Amal clones. Pretty much a crappier version of what I have now. I do have a lead on a freshly rebuilt 34mm Keihin off of a Rebel 250 for only $50. He said if it doesn't work for me I can bring it back.
Well, despite all the craziness today, I was still able to put this video together. Finally got some good footage with my phone with some really good sound quality. :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1ZnHlEXUFU&feature=youtu.be
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Here are a couple pics of the Carb I'm looking at getting. Mostly because the price is right and it ISN'T an Amal.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-19-39-1_zps3wpwibpq.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-19-39-1_zps3wpwibpq.png.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-19-09-1_zpszeriplvf.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Screenshot_2015-02-07-19-19-09-1_zpszeriplvf.png.html)
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Normally, this post would start with a sailor's mouth and an angry face. But I've become so accustomed to this bike kicking my effing ass that I'm just going to laugh it off and get stoned. ;D ;D ;D
Fucktards, where do I even begin today? ??? I removed the throttle cable this afternoon, and it was indeed binding, for 2 reasons. First, the way I had it routed directly under the top frame tube it had started to develop slight kinks. Over time with the heat from the engine, it started to form in that shape and was restricting the movement. So I straightened it out and lubed the hell out of it the best you can with what you got, and rerouted it to run along the side of the frame tube to eliminate the hump for the head steady. Also, the slide spring had lost some of its tension, so I stretched it back out. All said and done throttle now works properly again. But still, once the engine gets hot, it starts to hunt.
Speaking of getting hot, next problem: Detonation. >:(
150psi cylinder pressure, timing at 29.8* BTDC at full advance, 87 octane fuel. When I started the bike this afternoon, it started on the first kick, cold, no throttle at all, and idled fine the entire time warming up until I left. Upon departure, bike was fine and felt fairly good. I believe the only noise I was hearing was the exhaust valve chirp that I often hear. As soon as the engine got full hot, it started detonating pretty significantly. So I limped it back to the shop, and again the motor was hunting. Brought it to TDC, and retarded to ignition rotor just a cunt hair, I'd guess 2-4*. Bike started right up, but was hunting, did another shakedown, and so far seemed like the best happy medium I've come to with an occasional ping. Said to myself "It's going to be in the 60's until Tuesday, I need to get some real miles on it, let's ride home." Set off and the bike seemed OK........ Until I got on the interstate.......
A whole NEW freaking problem!!! Bike won't go into 4th!!!!! >:( I had it in 4th a few days ago, tho I have noticed the shifts getting sloppier with the clutch upgrades. The clutch releases so completely now that I have to let the lever out a bit sometimes to get it into 1st. I ASSUME the shift ratchet has finally taken a total crap on me. I hope that is the issue and not the actual tranny going out. Fuck me running. :'(
Adrian, I'm on the prowl for a used Mikuni locally. I posted on a Facebook group today of what I want.
Scottie it may be the advance that's doing it I've had cars do that and it ended up being the advance not the carb. ERC
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Scottie it may be the advance that's doing it I've had cars do that and it ended up being the advance not the carb. ERC
I suppose that it could be that. Tho I just replaced the springs in it and soaked it in PB Blaster for an hour before I reassembled it 2 years ago. Is it possible to install slightly stiffer springs to later the advance? IS that worth doing?
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I suppose that it could be that. Tho I just replaced the springs in it and soaked it in PB Blaster for an hour before I reassembled it 2 years ago. Is it possible to install slightly stiffer springs to later the advance? IS that worth doing?
Heavier springs are possible, but I don't think that's the issue.
I think 87 octane with 150 psi compression test is the issue.
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I did it on a Bullet not a twin. If that's the problem most likely it sticks in different positions when it's running. The only way to really check it is to put it on a Dyno and check it as it's running. Or you could have a buddy that's a fast runner run alongside it with a timing light ;D ERC
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Ace I don't think the octane would make the motor hunt or surge. Just would help the ping. ERC
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Ace I don't think the octane would make the motor hunt or surge. Just would help the ping. ERC
Yeah, I was referring to the detonation.
It could be a sticky advance, but I think with the description of happening "when hot", that it is the carb.
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If it was the weights causing the issue, wouldn't I have seen it when I was timing it? When I had the light on it I could see the advance going back and forth from retarded to full advance and back again. It appeared to be functioning properly.
Any thoughts on 4th gear? Likely the ratchet or something else?
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Another thing that can cause it is that weak slide spring, allowing the air to push it up easier than it should.
That can cause erratic idle.
You can't stretch it out to get the strength back. It seems to be that way, but it doesn't hold.
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Another thing that can cause it is that weak slide spring, allowing the air to push it up easier than it should.
That can cause erratic idle.
You can't stretch it out to get the strength back. It seems to be that way, but it doesn't hold.
Hmmmmm, I have not heard that before but it does make sense. I'll get some octane boost and premium fuel and throw that Keihin on there and see what happens.
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A gentleman on the LSR forum just shared this with me. Now I FINALLY know how to cure the pilot circuit. :D
http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html
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Just received a quote from H's for tranny parts....... Maybe I should just move to England if I'm going to continue to build my bike. It's going to cost close to $100 for 44 GBP worth of parts that will fit in an envelope. Per XE.com
1 USD = 0.656866 GBP
. If our government keeps printing all this phoney money a US dollar isn't going to be worth Jack Shit anymore anyway. And of course, our hosts do not carry any parts for a twin, so I either have a semi-broken bike or have to start shitting diamonds to pay for parts. Fuck. Man am I getting to a point of frustration with this damn bike. The entire time this bike has been true to the old saying "2 steps forward, 3 steps back". Then again, this is the first time I've owned something this old and actually built it. I guess I could look at it this way, in about 10 years I'll have a 65 year old bike with 100% brand new parts. At which point it would be absolutely insane to sell it. Well, I have a whole other crate of bike parts, maybe I should just move on with the next bike until I get to stopping point on that, and maybe have enough money saved up to buy more parts. Or just say fuck it and have a cafe bar hopper that redlines at 75mph. :( :-\ :'(
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Twins are expensive. Especially ones that have been out of production for 50 years. Expense is part of the territory with stuff like that.
This is one reason that I am so fond of the Bullet. It's less complex and less costly, has parts supply that only recently went out of production, and is capable of pretty good performance when properly modified. Good gas mileage too.
I really had my eyes opened when we went to the dyno the first time, and were a bit disappointed that we did not reach our projected hp goal. Then the dyno operator showed us some recent charts from a BSA 650 twin and a Triumph 650 twin, and they were both 1 hp LOWER than our Fireball 535. And most people would expect them to be significantly higher powered.
So singles can be satisfactory for many applications at lower cost.
Of course, ultimately the larger displacement twins have higher potential than the smaller 500/535, but it costs more to get there.
We have talked about this before, and you have to be ready to meet the cost levels of a vintage twin. And as you say, overseas shipping costs don't help matters any.
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Yeah, I know. It's just frustrating That I have to keep sending my money overseas to pay almost twice as much of what it's actually worth. Oh well, Like you said, part of the territory. And I'll be honest, I probably wouldn't even be bitching if I actually had the money to spend, I'd just order everything and be done with it.
Anyway, I reamed the pilot jet this morning and blew compressed air thru the air entry hole. Definitely not plugged. Hopefully this will help to get it run right.
Huh, looks like NFG had the 4 speed overhaul kit for about the same if I ordered from H's. I guess I'll probably end up doing that.
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Doing a little research on boosting octane. Octane Supreme isn't available in Denver that I can find and race fuel is up to $7/gallon. So I contacted my corn racer buddy and he suggested a 20/80 mix of E85 and 91oct. Upon researching a Beemer forum, I found a few people saying that they are running a 30/70 mix on stock maps with big improvements and no engine lights. I'm going to split the difference and try 25/75 mix and hopefully gets those knocks out of there.
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So, have you actually taken the transmission out and taken it apart to find out what the problem is?
It might be something as simple as a broken spring or some other small part that shifts it into 4th gear.
There's a small chance that some small part like that would have been common with the transmissions on the singles.
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Octane Supreme is only available on the internet.
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So, have you actually taken the transmission out and taken it apart to find out what the problem is?
It might be something as simple as a broken spring or some other small part that shifts it into 4th gear.
There's a small chance that some small part like that would have been common with the transmissions on the singles.
It could be the gear cluster fork, maybe the gear cluster bushing is shot or the shift fork inside the trans. Time to yank it apart?
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So, have you actually taken the transmission out and taken it apart to find out what the problem is?
It might be something as simple as a broken spring or some other small part that shifts it into 4th gear.
There's a small chance that some small part like that would have been common with the transmissions on the singles.
It could be the gear cluster fork, maybe the gear cluster bushing is shot or the shift fork inside the trans. Time to yank it apart?
You know, the trans has always been quirky, especially 3rd gear. Perhaps, it is time to tear it down and see what is up. I have always suspected the shift ratchet to be on the fritz, maybe it is as simple as that, but I'm not sure. Maybe I can sell some sperm on the black market and buy that new 5 speed conversion. ;D Seriously tho, maybe I should just tear it down, I haven't been inside of one of these beasts yet anyhow. ;) Any links for overhaul and dis-assembly? I believe the twin 4 speeds were the same as the older singles. It's an Albion, I know that.
Octane Supreme is only available on the internet.
I saw on Ebay that the warehouse is in NM. I didn't realize it wasn't available commercially. However, I did go put 2 gallons of corn in my gas can and added a gallon to the about 2 gallons or so of 87oct that was in the tank and I did make some progress. The timing was at about 34* after the last change without the timing light. It was feeling really good until she got hot again and started detonating again. Changed the timing to 28.5* (not intentionally, just where it ended up) and absolutely no detonating, but was a bit of a dog. Went back and made another change AND my painted guide marks fell off the rotor and trigger plate and I totally lost time. Like COMPLETELY. Took me an hour to get the bike started again. I started using the lower slot of the Phillips head on one of the mounting plate screws and the edge of the magnet on the rotor as a guide, and after about 20-30 attempts I finally got the bike to idle again. Too advanced, so brought it back a smidge 2 more times and BINGO!!! She was finally mostly happy, a couple smalls dets at take off but was smooth up thru the revs, threw the light on it and it was at 29.8*. Still more retarded than I want and need, but I think I found the main problem here, the fuel is boiling in the bowl. During my hour timing escapade, I tickled the carb to see if that would get it to start, and the fuel practically vaporized as it came out. :o I grabbed the carb with my latex gloves on and tho the bowl felt cooler than the rest of the carb, but that bitch was freaking HOT on the intake side! I'm going to have to get one of those thermal carb spacers, and with that and the E85 I think my detonation problems will be fixed. Then I can focus on the transmission and get that working top notch again.
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OH! Forgot to mention, reaming the pilot hole this morning did in deed help with idling and low rpms. In fact, now when I turn the air screw the idle actually fluctuates up and down, instead of doing nothing at all and then falling flat on it's face at 3/4 turn out. Still only 3/8 of a turn out is where she's happy, but the idle is nice and smooth again. So that's cool.
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Call me suspicious, but I bet my transmission would work better if it actually had oil in it. Damn near bone dry. Oops. ::) Filled it back up with 80-90 gear oil.
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Just got off the phone with The Bonneville Shop and they have the thermal spacers in stock so I'm going to go grab one on my lunch break.
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The trannys are all pretty much the same for twins and Bullets. I thougt Hitchcocks has info on rebuilding them. ERC
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They do it's under techincal notes on their site. ERC
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Ok thanks ERC, I'll have a look. Hopefully it will start shifting again with fluid in it, probably won't, but it doesn't hurt to be optimistic. Got the thermal spacer installed on lunch, I'll go for a short ride when I clock out for the day.
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Well, sometimes being a persistent stubborn son of a bitch pays off. 8)
Low and behold, I finally have a descent tune on the bike! Actually,a pretty good tune. And for optimism? 4th gear came back to life. :D I still have a few odd and ends to button up, but I believe the bike is damn near dialed in now.
After work, I fired up the bike and started tinkering. Timing was still off, but now that I have a solid reference mark, and TDC marked on my exposed stator and rotor, it didn't take long to correct it. 3 tries to be exact, moving the ignition rotor only about .5mm at a time. I gave up on the timing light and decided to just load time it on the road. After the 3rd change, she was purring beautifully. Nice crisp power from take off and just a load of torque. I wasn't pulling more than half throttle, and she was taking off twice as fast as my Subi floored. In fact, when I got back in my car to drive home I thought to myself "when did my car get so slow?" ;D Now that the timing is completely dialed in, after I run this tank of gas thru and get a fresh mix of 91/E85 blend I will do some plug chops and get the carb dialed the rest of the way in, tho I'm sure it is damn close to where it needs to be.
As for the trans? At first she was still acting stiff and hard, and after a few miles on a back road I tried to shift into 4th but it didn't want to go. There wasn't any traffic so I just left the clutch engaged while between 3rd and 4th and put pressure on the shift lever. It moved a little, then a little more and then PRESTO! She went in! And as soon as it did go into 4th, the trans freed up and starting acting "normal" again.
Happy, happy, happy day. :D
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I'm glad you're nearing the end... this has been quite an emotional roller-coaster for all of us! ;)
Of course, you've got another bike waiting...
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I'm glad you're nearing the end... this has been quite an emotional roller-coaster for all of us! ;)
Of course, you've got another bike waiting...
Ain't that the truth! ;D
And I do have another bike waiting and possibly a third...... Apparently after I left work yesterday, one of the boss' friends stopped by to say hi. Well I guess he came back to the body shop and saw my bike and was amazed by it. He started asking my body man and boss questions like "Did he build that himself?" "He built the motor himself too?" And then he starts saying "I have an old BSA A50 in my shed that has been in pieces for years. He can HAVE it if he wants it." :o And I guess the bosses response was "Oh hell no! You give him another bike and I'll never get him to work on my cars!" Bwahahahahaha!!!! ;D ;D ;D I just found this out this afternoon. I'm trying to think of how to approach him and coax him into letting get this bike from his friend. Oh man oh man! :D
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A video from yesterday.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoOQ6SzEmwc
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Just checked the plugs after yesterday's ride. Left side is slightly leaner than the right, but not much. It's looking like a good overall mix for under half throttle. I'll have to wait a couple days to do chops as a storm just rolled in last night.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0211150630_zps0xjvwsnr.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0211150630_zps0xjvwsnr.jpg.html)
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Sounds like you got it, seems to run great. ERC
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I'm pretty happy, as you can tell at the end of that video I just posted. :) I didn't think my changes were going to make too big of a difference but they did. Just regular cruising about 1/8-1/4 gets the bike moving quick with minimal effort. Once I get some new valve springs installed and replace the primary chain I'm going for the ton again. Based off of yesterday, I think it's possible now. I just want to make everything is sound and set 100% correct before I try again.
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If you get it just right, it should make the Ton.
The original SM was rated to make the Ton. You might have to lay down on the tank.
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If you get it just right, it should make the Ton.
The original SM was rated to make the Ton. You might have to lay down on the tank.
I have a couple of friends that want to see me ton up as bad as I do. So when I do actually go try, I'm going to have a friend follow behind me with a GoPro that has an accurate speedo. Should be a good time! :) I cannot express how happy I am after yesterday. Between getting the running dialed in and the tranny coming back to life, it was just an awesome day. And as quirky as these old REs are, I have to say I am impressed with the durability. Between my first day of work when the oil return passage clogged and ran the oil tank completely empty twice, 30 miles each direction, and the trans running dry for who knows how long....... I just can't believe I haven't seriously damaged anything. Maybe I'm just lucky. :)
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Am I doing the correct head torque procedure on my bike? I ask because I was told I'm doing it incorrectly on another forum. Currently I torque the motor cold, run it for 15-20 minutes, let it cool for 15-20 and then re-torque.
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Am I doing the correct head torque procedure on my bike? I ask because I was told I'm doing it incorrectly on another forum. Currently I torque the motor cold, run it for 15-20 minutes, let it cool for 15-20 and then re-torque.
I do all the torques dead cold.
The engine grows in height by about .010"-.012" when hot. So, if the engine is warm, it is somewhere between zero and .012" and will loosen off by some commensurate amount when it cools.
Torquing dead cold is the only way to ensure predictably proper torque.
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Ok thanks.
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Well, here I am stranded again. And I didn't bring tools like a dumb ass. I'm not sure what the problem is. At first I thought it was a loose wire in the ignition somewhere. Ride another couple miles and now I'm not fair i if it is fuel or ignition. :'(
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Well as least the tow truck showed up fairly quick. Don't think it's fuel, I drained the bowl while waiting for the truck and it was still missing. Must be a loose wire somewhere.
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Ace, thank you for speaking with me earlier. My brain is really turning right now trying to troubleshoot possibilities in my head. I keep thinking loose wire, seems the most explainable and logical. Sat down to toke, thinking and thinking and thinking, and the chances of a loose wire are actually very unlikely. That is a brand new harness with soldered connections and brand new bullet connectors. And I used good quality wiring pliers so I know the crimps are solid and tight. Connectors have never been apart so HIGHLY unlikely that they pulled apart on their own. Kill and ignition switch is brand new. I know the bike is charging well because I was running with the headlight off and when I stopped, I turned the headlight on and looked at it and it was distinctly bright in broad daylight. So can't be battery because the ignition only draws 1.5-5ma depending on rpm. And then it dawned on me, this is the EXACT SAME THING that stranded me on the DGR ride last summer. Bike was running perfect and then 30 minutes later extremely bad misfire. I'm beginning to think that maybe the coil is actually bad.
EDIT: I didn't think much of it at the time, because I haven't really been getting on her hard, but there were about 3 isolated misfires on different days the last week or so when I really tried to rev her up to about 5000.
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Coils can act strange when off, heat ect and they can just pack up.
New coil to start out with scottie, only thing that hasnt really been replaced
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Ace - I can't find any info on what the ohm rating is supposed to be for my coil. What would be ideal for my needs? I assume the lower the ohms the hotter the spark. Also how do I go about testing my coil?
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Ace - I can't find any info on what the ohm rating is supposed to be for my coil. What would be ideal for my needs? I assume the lower the ohms the hotter the spark. Also how do I go about testing my coil?
Typical Lucas coil specs are 3.2-4 ohms primary resistance. A good secondary would read about 8000 ohms.
Read the primary with an ohm meter across the + and - terminals. Read the secondary with an ohm meter across the + terminal and the HT terminal.
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I obviously have some testing to do before ordering, but I'm really leaning towards a bad coil as being the problem. I don't want to wste money on a standard replacement, because that just doesn't meet my needs. So I've been looking at the Dyna coil and the TriSpark coil. Anyone use either of these? I'm leaning towards the Dyna coil because I know they are popular among the HDs and seems to be a favored mod on those bikes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-DC1-3-Mini-Coil-Dual-Output-3-0-ohm-Kawasaki-Suzuki-/191504176465?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c9689d551&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Lead-High-Output-Trispark-Post-Mount-Coil-12-Volt-/261322883328?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd80ec100&vxp=mtr
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I obviously have some testing to do before ordering, but I'm really leaning towards a bad coil as being the problem. I don't want to wste money on a standard replacement, because that just doesn't meet my needs. So I've been looking at the Dyna coil and the TriSpark coil. Anyone use either of these? I'm leaning towards the Dyna coil because I know they are popular among the HDs and seems to be a favored mod on those bikes.
Tri Spark 3.5 ohms is within spec
3 ohm Dyna is not.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-DC1-3-Mini-Coil-Dual-Output-3-0-ohm-Kawasaki-Suzuki-/191504176465?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c9689d551&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Lead-High-Output-Trispark-Post-Mount-Coil-12-Volt-/261322883328?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd80ec100&vxp=mtr
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Here's a dyna coil for a HD that is 5 ohms. Or does it need to be within 4ohms? Sorry for the questions, just have never had to replace a coil on a bike before.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-Dyna-Ignition-Coils-Coil-5-ohm-Dual-Output-DC7-1-CDI-/400359247116?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d37454d0c&vxp=mtr
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Here's a dyna coil for a HD that is 5 ohms. Or does it need to be within 4ohms? Sorry for the questions, just have never had to replace a coil on a bike before.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-Dyna-Ignition-Coils-Coil-5-ohm-Dual-Output-DC7-1-CDI-/400359247116?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d37454d0c&vxp=mtr
Measure the primary resistance of your good coil. If it is typical Lucas, it will be in that 3.2-4 ohm range, but check the one you have. If you don't have a volt ohm meter, they can be bought for about ten bucks, and are very handy for electrical troubleshooting.
Just put it on the lowest ohm setting and put the red lead on the + terminal of your coil and the black lead on the - terminal. Do it with the coil disconnected from the rest of the wiring. Then you will know if it is good or bad, and what the spec is.
The primary resistance dictates how fast the coil charges, a d how much current flows into it during charging. This can influence the applicability of the coil with the other parts of the circuit. Lower resistance can cause overcurrent and heating of all the items in the ignition circuit. Which is usually not too good to do.
The way to buy a coil is by the specs, not what happens to be available on ebay at any given time.
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I don't have any other the coil, just what is on the bike, as it has a mag with the EI conversion. But after this evening, I'm pretty sure that the coil is the culprit. I put together a short video so you can see what is going on. After I started the bike I let it warm up for about 3 minutes and then went around block, under the same acceleration as yesterday, and not 1 single misfire.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgFDQJ7zjdE&feature=youtu.be
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Well, the primary resistance is a bit high.
Did this bike have 2 coils on it previously?
Or did this coil come with the Thorspark system or something?
What is the history of this coil?
What about the plug wire alone? What is the resistance of the plug wire?
And something seems strange that the meter was not registering at all on the second reading that you tried to take. Usually when the meter reads 1 like that, it's not getting a reading. Like no connection.
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This is the coil that came with the Thorspark. I emailed them about what the resistance should be and haven't heard back. I know nothing about the coil other than it is 12v single coil with dual leads.
The bike was factory fitted with a Lucas K2F magneto, so no coils originally fitted.
I did remove the resistor cap and tested the resistance directly thru the copper core and still no reading at all. And yes, when testing thru the hi tension lead , it is like there is nothing hooked up at all, a slight blip of numbers upon initial connection and then nothing. I tested both leads as well to make sure it wasn't just one bad lead. Both leads have no resistance signal at all. That's why I mentioned in the video that it concerned me.
I spoke with a tech rep at Dynatek today. I gave him the run down on the bike and set up, and told him that the standard Lucas coils were between 3.2-4ohms. He suggested that I use the DC6-1 for a Harley. It is 3 ohms and I asked if it would damaged anything only being 3, and he said that as long as it is within 10% of original there would be no damage done. I can get that coil on Amazon for $62 and is rated at 30,000+ volts.
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Like Ace said, when these digital meters keep their reading of 1, they aren't finding any complete connection from one test lead to the other one.
In the case of your testing from the spark plug connector it is very possible the other end of the wire is not actually touching the metal in the high tension outlet on the coil.
If no connection is found, the meter will go unchanged from the 1.
This situation is entirely possible even though the engine starts and runs.
What may be happening is the wire is not contacting the metal outlet but when you start the engine the high voltage spark is jumping the gap from the coil outlet to the end of the wire causing the spark plug to fire the cylinder.
I suggest removing the high tension wire from the coil. Then check it from the plug in to the spark plug connector. If it is a copper wire there should be almost no resistance at all. If you are checking thru the spark plug cap to the coil end of the wire there may be resistance if the cap is a resistor type.
Then, with the wire out of the way, check the coil by making contact with the metal connector in the coils high voltage output terminal and the + connection.
You will probably get a 800-20000 ohm resistance depending on how many windings the secondary coil has.
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I've been playing with electrical for as long as I've been riding. Ironically, doing electrical is how I paid for my first bike when I was 13. So I know how to use a volt meter, I've just never had to test a bike coil before, so wanted to make sure I was doing the right procedure. I fear removing the the HTL from the coil itself, as it looks like it may be formed into the coil itself. Unless it just screws in like a resistor cap. And I'm not sure if anyone remebers or not, but I've been bitching about the a weak spark since I've installed that ignition. In fact, I originally had to go down to a BH5 plug, because the spark was barely visible with the BH6 plug, tho I am back to a 6 series now. I'm willing to bet tho, tho if I fire up and the bike with a stop watch and started riding around the block, at the 20 minute mark it's going to start bucking and cutting out again. Like I mentioned last night, exact same riding conditions except under a cold motor, and not 1 misfire. I don't think it is a fuel issue either, because one of the first things I did was feel the carb, and was only luke warm, and drain the crab, absolutely no dirt or moisture.
I received a email back from Thorspark and he said Hi, the primary resistance should be around 4.5 to 5 ohms, we have used a few different batches of coils over the years, but all should be roughly that.
With that being said, QC is likely not that good as far as consistency with these coils. With that much variation from coil to coil, the build quality cannot be that good. I assume, perhaps I'm wrong.
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Well, with that ignition system, you will need to follow their specs.
If the coil died in two years, then that is the shittiest coil that I ever heard of. Any decent coil should last at least ten years, and I have seen 50 year old coils working fine.
I personally suspect the HT wire or the cap since it had no reading on the meter, and it may be jumping an internal break, thereby possibly causing the problems.
Bad HT lead, cracked and/or dirty/wet cap, or bad internal HT contacts inside that cap would be higher on my list than the coil,....unless that is the shittiest coil in the world. And if it is, then I'd also be leery about the rest of that ignition system too.
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Ok, I will inspect the leads then. How do you go about removing them? Do they just screw in like the resister caps?
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I removed the HT leads, the leads are good. But no matter what I do I cannot get any signal thru secondary resistance. I don't even have a thru signal from 1lead to the other. No continuity, resistance or nothing. And interestingly enough, the cap for the left lead had apparently failed as well, no continuity or resistance, right cap has 4.8ohms at 20k setting. Is the coil shot then? Should I try regular plug caps?
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I removed the HT leads, the leads are good. But no matter what I do I cannot get any signal thru secondary resistance. I don't even have a thru signal from 1lead to the other. No continuity, resistance or nothing. And interestingly enough, the cap for the left lead had apparently failed as well, no continuity or resistance, right cap has 4.8ohms at 20k setting. Is the coil shot then? Should I try regular plug caps?
The secondary winding of the coil might be open, and that would be a bad coil.
And the leads/cap situation sounds pretty bad too. Maybe you need to replace all that stuff, so that both sides are working.
It's pretty sad to have to do that in just 2 years of use.
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Well let me see say that I'm not impressed. I spoke with my parts guy and he said that only purpose of a resistor cap or plug is to eliminate electromagnetic interference. Being that I have no computers, ECU or radio or anything, he suggested removing the resistor caps and installing standard caps in place. Is it runs better, leave it. If it's worse, than likely the coil is bad and needs replacing. I just stopped at the parts store and bought some new solid core wire too. About to do that and go for a test ride.
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Well let me see say that I'm not impressed. I spoke with my parts guy and he said that only purpose of a resistor cap or plug is to eliminate electromagnetic interference. Being that I have no computers, ECU or radio or anything, he suggested removing the resistor caps and installing standard caps in place. Is it runs better, leave it. If it's worse, than likely the coil is bad and needs replacing. I just stopped at the parts store and bought some new solid core wire too. About to do that and go for a test ride.
That is correct. The resistors are only there for RF suppression, and if you don't need them, then they only weaken the spark unnecessarily.
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Coil is definitely a pile of crap. Installed the new HT leads and standard caps and ran a couple of errands. Without a doubt, the BEST it has ever ran! 25 minutes later misifiring again. What a POS! Thorspark is going to be receiving another email from me, and not a pleasant one. You know, and it only lasted 18 months or less, because I only rode about 200 miles TOTAL all last year. I payed $305 for that freaking ignition, and all it was is a coil, a trigger and a rotor. And the most expensive part is apparently some cheap ass Chinese POS. Damn it all!
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Coil is definitely a pile of crap. Installed the new HT leads and standard caps and ran a couple of errands. Without a doubt, the BEST it has ever ran! 25 minutes later misifiring again. What a POS! Thorspark is going to be receiving another email from me, and not a pleasant one. You know, and it only lasted 18 months or less, because I only rode about 200 miles TOTAL all last year. I payed $305 for that freaking ignition, and all it was is a coil, a trigger and a rotor. And the most expensive part is apparently some cheap ass Chinese POS. Damn it all!
Oh well!
:(
At least you tried everything you could.
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Yep. Thanks again for your help. I assume I should look for a 5ohm coil instead of a 3ohm coil then, being that is what is on there?
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Yep. Thanks again for your help. I assume I should look for a 5ohm coil instead of a 3ohm coil then, being that is what is on there?
If that is what they specify for that Thorspark unit, then yes that would be what to get.
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I don't know if it is accurate but I found a drawing for theThorspark that might show the internal wiring.
If it is accurate, the secondary coil is not grounded to the ground connection on the coil.
Instead, one end of the secondary coil connects to one of the spark plug wires. The other end of the secondary coil connects to the other spark plug wire.
That would work, firing both spark plugs at the same time.
To see if this is true and to get a resistance reading for the secondary coil, check the resistance from one spark plug HT wire to the other HT wire.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Thorspark&espv=2&biw=1680&bih=937&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=d_bfVNmYDIayogSzkIG4Dg&ved=0CDAQsAQ#imgdii=_&imgrc=bCG6T3bw05ByDM%253A%3B-r6vpP6v9eRfUM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.a7a10.net%252Fforum%252Findex.php%253Faction%253Ddlattach%253Btopic%253D1657.0%253Battach%253D9383%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.a7a10.net%252Fforum%252Findex.php%253Ftopic%253D1657.15%3B1040%3B720
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I already did that test yesterday. With both leads on and both leads removed. Absolutely no secondary resistance.
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Hi Chris,
I normally don't waste my time writing letters of disappointment, and just cut my losses and call it good. But I have to say that I am extremely disappointed with the quality of the coil provided with the Thorspark ignition conversion. While the ignition does do it's job and is much better than the original points/mag set up, I just can't believe that an ignition coil cannot even make it 10,000 miles or even a full 2 years. Twice now, I have been stranded on the side of the road and have had to call for a tow truck to come rescue me. As of recent, the bike runs great for about 20 minutes and then develops such a bad misfire that it renders the bike un-ridable. The first time it had happened was on last years Distinguished Gentleman's Ride. Not only did I get stranded out in the middle of no-where with no phone reception, but it happened before I even made it to the second stop of the ride. I assumed at that time it was the cheap fuse holder you provided for the ignition source. I had replaced it with a blade style fuse holder, and thought that I had solved my problem. But only going on 2 short rides to the store before tearing the bike down for a rebuild, I hadn't run the bike long enough for it to fault again. A couple of weeks ago, I finished up my winter rebuild. I shook the bike down for 2 weeks making sure I had the bugs worked out and decided to ride it home from my shop. 20 miles into the ride the bike starts misfiring as I'm doing 70mph down the highway in heavy rush-hour traffic. Thank the good lord the bike had not completely stalled causing me to crash in the middle of traffic. Once again, I had to have my bike towed back home. I have now spent the last 3 days troubleshooting every single possibility in the ignition system and rest of the bike. The battery is new and has a full charge, the wiring harness is a brand new custom built harness with soldered connections and bullet connectors only where needed, the kill switch is new, and the fuse panel is new. The entire electrical system is BAND NEW. However, no matter what I do, I CANNOT get a secondary resistance reading from the coil. I even removed the HT leads, and replaced them, and even at the terminals on the coil, there is absolutely no secondary resistance at all. After discussing my current issue with my engine guy, he too agrees that there is a fault with the ignition coil, and even made a remark along the lines of that "it must be the crappiest coil he has ever heard of to die within less of 2 years".
I don't want to give off the wrong impression and imply that I am bashing your product, as that is not my intentions and would also be unprofessional of me. However, I do have a bit of buyers remorse, when I consider that I could have bought a full digital Power/Arc racing ignition for the same exact price that I payed for the Thorspark. But one thing that sold me on the Thorspark is that you advertised it with a 5 year warranty. I seriously have only put MAYBE 7500 miles on the bike since I built it with the Thorspark 2 years ago, and let's not fool ourselves, that just isn't acceptable. I hope that this problem can be resolved in a timely professional manner. I have liked the product up until now and hope that I do not need to replace it after only a very short times use. Thank you for your time and I look forward to your response.
Scottie Usher
Bulldog Kustoms Denver
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What brand of coil is it? If it is Gill you should look elsewhere. You might have to source one that has a good rep.
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What brand of coil is it? If it is Gill you should look elsewhere. You might have to source one that has a good rep.
I have no idea what brand it is. And I have no intentions of using a replacement coil if they send me one, I more want it for a back up and to test to see what the hell it is actually supposed to test at. I've been looking at the the Dyna DC7-1 5 ohm coil for HD dual fire ignitions, but it retails for $86.99. Upon more searching today, I found a Drag Specialties Dyna "knock-off" for $52.95 free shipping. It is rated at 35,000-40,000 volts and 5 ohms so should work very well for my needs. Also claims "eliminates high speed misfires".
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261734375042?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I spoke with the chap who has "the old BSA" today. I guess it is actually a B50 single and apparently, it isn't much more than a motor these days. BUT I was wanting a single 500 for the Chief build. Maybe I'll build a Beezfield. ;D
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A B50 has the same bore and stroke as a 500 Bullet, but as it's quite a compact unit construction engine it would look totally lost in that frame! But if you want something all alloy, we know the AVL 500 fits the Redditch frame nicely, you could fit a 4 or 5 speed box as you wish... It's about time someone else built one.
Just a photoshopped mock-up, but this launched Asbo #12, originally intended as a poor man's Fury!
(http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/mn/b36e720bddab08209912e3ea01ef94e8_imagesia-com_mn3m_large.jpg) (http://en.imagesia.com/b36e720bddab08209912e3ea01ef94e8_mn3m)
Regards,
A.
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Decent prices and quick shipper's Scottie. I've used them many times.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ListItems.aspx?page=1&itemsPerPage=20&keywords=ignition+coil
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I think I'm going to try to order the coil locally, there are quite a few Drag Specialties authorized dealers in my neighborhood.
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A B50 has the same bore and stroke as a 500 Bullet, but as it's quite a compact unit construction engine it would look totally lost in that frame! But if you want something all alloy, we know the AVL 500 fits the Redditch frame nicely, you could fit a 4 or 5 speed box as you wish... It's about time someone else built one.
Just a photoshopped mock-up, but this launched Asbo #12, originally intended as a poor man's Fury!
Regards,
A.
Yeah I'm not sure what is even all going on. LOL I know he has the motor for sure, I can't figure out if there was a frame or not, I think maybe. I guess he also has a '76 Sporty that is semi-restored but he's not sure what he wants to do with it. And I probably wouldn't even get to it for awhile, but I need to jump at opportunity when I have the chance to strike. You know what I mean? ;)
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I woke up to a response from Thorspark. They have agreed that the secondary windings are bad and are sending me a replacement. I asked what brand they use, not sure if I'll get an answer for that or not. Tho I am tempted to buy that 35,000 volt coil still.
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I forgot to mention. Saturday, I removed the catch can and added a PCV in between the crank breather and duck bill. It was already too grimy to tell, but I'm pretty sure that stopped it from spewing oil out the back. I checked it while idling and is now only allowing air out and preventing the crank from sucking air back in. Hopefully this will clean things up a bit.
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You should do some research and make sure the PCV valve will work for your application. There has been plenty talk on this subject on the Enfield forums. From what I gather, a PCV designed for a car engine is designed completely different than one needed for use with a Motorcycle 4-stroke air-cooled dry-sump engine. I had read on the Hitchcock's forum that some of the members found a valve used for the power steering on a Volvo worked great. I know Ace has talked about this topic many times over the years.
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Is it possible for the timing to advance a bit from removing the resistor caps? I feel like it's pinging a bit since I removed them.
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Is it possible for the timing to advance a bit from removing the resistor caps? I feel like it's pinging a bit since I removed them.
A hotter spark kernel might have a slight advancing effect.
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OK, I'll bring it back a another smidge then.
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OK, I'll bring it back a another smidge then.
Technical term for smidge is three fiths of fuck all ;)
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Not to be confused with a tad! :P
A.
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I ended up moving it a fraction of a cunt hair. ;) Running fine with not detonation now. I'm a little irritated with the coil situation tho. I was in correspondence for Monday and Tuesday with Thorspark and last I heard "I'll get you another coil sent out in the mail." Haven't heard anything since. No confirmation of it being sent, or when it was going to be sent. I'm about to say fuck it and just buy a coil.
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I received the new coil today. This one had "ai" printed on the side of it and tested 4.8 ohms primary and 18@20K ohms secondary. Got the bike started up, but now I think I have some moisture in the fuel from sitting outside and having snow blown on it. I rode it for a minute in the snow and then parked it. If it wasn't snowing I would've drained the carb and went for a ride, but it's looking like it's going to have to wait until next week.
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20000 ohms secondary divided by 4.8 ohms primary equals 4166.66 turns ratio.
12v times 4166.66 equals 50000 volts spark.
18000 ohms secondary divided by 4.8 ohms primary equals 3750 turns ratio.
12v times 3750 equals 45000 volts spark.
Plenty of juice!
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Sweet! Thanks for that info Ace, that IS plenty of juice!
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I've been thinking about the seat and I'm just not happy with the raw finish. It looks incomplete. I think I'm going to pull it off and paint it this week.
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Let's get techy today! :D
First off, I filled up the tank yesterday and looks like the new holding capacity is right around 3.75 gallons. It was almost empty and took 3.6 gallons to fill. Irrelevant, but fun to know. BUT, after I filled up with 92octane, she started to detonate again. I still have a gallon of E85 at work, but it's kind of a PITA to have to do this every fill up. I may have to start ordering the octane supreme. Oh the joys of increasing performance. LOL ;)
Now for the techy topic!
A while back, someone on the LSR forum mentioned/recommended swapping the fork legs around backwards to increase the rake and trail. To me it sounded like a hog wash bad idea, and disregarded it. Recently I was going over some old Royal Enfield threads on the BritBike forum and found a thread, where Bob "Bletz" himself started chiming in and reminiscing of days of old! Legend has it that Shell Thuet set up ALL of his Enfield Ascot racers with reversed fork legs, including the bikes that dominated Ascot and were raced by Guy Lewis and Elliot Schultz.
So the real question becomes: Should I or shouldn't I? Some people claim that this trick doesn't work outside of flat tracking. Tho, theory would say that it should work well for all types of racing. Let's discuss!!! :D
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It will increase the trail AND raise the front end slightly. It will also reduce the wheelbase.
Probably the end result would be slower and heavier steering. Less twitchy.
If you use any front fender, the stays will all be different.
Also, with drum front brake, you will lose the locating slot for the brake plate, because it will be moved outboard, and there will be nothing for the brake plate to lock into. This is no problem for flat trackers because they have no front brake. But for street or road racing, it could be a problem unless you also do a disc conversion with the caliper forward of the fork.
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If I move the fork legs from one side to the other I think I would be able to retain the drum brake, but I'm not 100% on that.
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For street use I would leave it stock, but if you DO want to move the front axle back a bit the fork sliders from a '59 350 Bullet or Clipper (UK models) might be what you want, as they are almost (not quite) on the center-line of the fork leg. The fender mounts are different, so you would have to re-think the fork brace.
(http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/rn/dscn6975_imagesia-com_rnjq_large.JPG)
A.
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So I got a chance to run around a little bit yesterday. I was able to get the timing set a little bit better, but I just can't get enough advance out of the timing without detonation. I've given up on light timing and have been load timing the bike, last time I had a light on it, I recall only 28-29* of advance before detonation. Obviously, this is all because I removed my cylinder gaskets to bump up compression. I didn't however think that another 25psi of cylinder pressure was going to cause this big of an issue. So now I've come to a cross-roads where I either need to decide on a different fuel, make an investment in Octane Supreme, or figure out how to tune for E85.
Part of my frustrations come from having this lame as Amal carb that I just can't get any performance out of what so ever. I've decided that once the Chief is sold (which is scheduled to be shipped out to the new owner this week) I will buy new valve springs and a new Mikuni carb. Where my questions are, what carb should I be shopping for? I know I want a TM series, but what diameter? Ideally, I know I should run dual carbs, but for simplicity and costs I'm going to run a single carb. Does Mikuni make a TM carb that is already set up for alcohol? I have been unable to figure that out. Nor have I been able to to find a alcohol conversion kit for a Mikuni.
And for fuel...... Will the octane supreme give me enough boost to get the timing back to the 32-34* range? Or am I going to have to consider race fuel? E85 is available all over the Denver metro area, race fuel I can get Sunoco 100 oct pump gas by work for about $7/gal, otherwise I can get 106 octane in 5 gallon cans from Performance cycle for about $70 a can. I don't plan on any actual racing this year, but we all know I have a happy wrist, and I'd like to keep the stock internals together until I can get my new motor built. Only other option is to leave it where it is at and just deal with the bike not being as fast as it used to be.
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Okay, this is a big topic, but here is the short version.
The goal is not necessarily to have a lot of advance. The goal is to make power with the advance at the correct crank angle to make the most out of the fuel in an efficient way. With large chambers, this often takes a lot of advance, but you have small chambers and high compression, and should not require a lot of advance. Any chamber will get pinging if you advance it far enough.
What we try to do is get the most power with the least advance possible, without losing power from too much retard.
I am always trying to create mods that make the power on less advance. This is what smaller, faster burning chambers with squish are all about. If you ignite the spark later, it doesn't "fight" the engine on the upstroke as much, and it can make the burn happen at the right time, and so you end up with more power output.
We typically end up with 32 degrees full advance on the 535. You should be able to tune that twin with small 350 chambers to more efficient advance of something less that we do with our big chambers.
Remember, the goal is power, not necessarily advance. I know that with hemi engines they often go hand in hand, but you have small chambers and high compression, so chase the power and not the advance.
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OK, thanks for clearing that up for me. My problem now is that, while it is running efficiently, it seems that I have lost mid range and top end. When I had the E85 blend and had a bit more advance, at about 3800 RPMs she'd hit the power band and really take off. Now that I've brought the timing back for pump gas, the power band seems to gone and feels more sluggish.
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Just a thought, Scottie, you say above that the mid range and top end used to feel stronger. Could it be possible that with more retard, the bottom end grunt has increased to a point where the power in the mid range and beyond don't FEEL so strong now because they are not coming in so suddenly after a lower original bottom end power and you don't feel the 'kick in the pants' you may have experienced before?
I mention this as well, because I remember the guy at a place we used to go dyno testing telling me about 'performance' Harley cams he had fitted to a customer machine and dyno tested. He told me the performance cams actually reduced the low to mid range power and the top end power was not increased at all, but the bike FELT like it had more power at the seat of the pants, when the power band kicked in and the owner had been convinced it was faster, until the dyno proved him wrong.
Do you have access to a dyno? they can be a revelation !
B.W.
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I do have access to a dyno and plan on running on it sometime this year. Perhaps it's just that I made so many changes at once that the feel itself is playing tricks on me. I also have not been wrapping the throttle as hard as I used to as I know the primary chain is about to go and the valve springs need to be replaced.
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I do have access to a dyno and plan on running on it sometime this year. Perhaps it's just that I made so many changes at once that the feel itself is playing tricks on me. I also have not been wrapping the throttle as hard as I used to as I know the primary chain is about to go and the valve springs need to be replaced.
Well, I'm not saying that your assessments aren't correct.
All I'm saying is that it can be misleading to chase after more advance in pursuit of power, and have it become counterproductive. Sometimes it will give more power, but not always.
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Does anyone know if this gauge will fit in the dual instrument Interceptor cluster? I'm really tempted to get this, but don't want to if won't fit the factory mount. It does say it replaces Smith speedos.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-parts-legendary-motorcycles-gps-speedometer-sm2801.html
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I would say it would, the face on mine is 31/2" and about 3" for the hole. ERC
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That black screw-on fixing ring might not fit inside the twin-clock casting even if the instrument itself fits the hole, it's all a bit cramped in there. Contact the seller for more details to make sure either way. You might have to invent another method for securing it.
A.
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Also the " neat little features like peak recall max speed during run" might be of interest to your local Highway Patrol! :o
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Also the " neat little features like peak recall max speed during run" might be of interest to your local Highway Patrol! :o
They can't prove anything if I kill the ignition first! ;D
I do like that it does 1/4 mile speed and times as well.
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With the Chief sold, I have a little extra money to throw at the Blackhawk. I was originally going to get that GPS speedometer, but it turns out my taxes are going to cost a bit more to get done than I originally thought, so I'm going to hold off on that for the moment. BUT I will have a couple extra hundred to spend. Yay!
So, for the moment, I want to replace the primary chain and valve springs, as I know both of those are ready to take a shit at any moment. I was thinking of getting performance valve springs, but I think I'm just going to replace with stock springs until I regrind the camshafts and replace the bottom end with performance parts. That should get me squared away mechanically aside from the oil leaks. So, my other thought was to go to one of the local Brit shops, where they have a NOS Emgo bubble fairing. He's asking $65, but he also mentioned "money talks". So I think if I go in there with a crisp $50 bill, I can walk out with the fairing. Then I would just need to get it installed, and then paint it and the seat pan. At that point, the bike would be cosmetically and aesthetically complete.
After that, all I would have left to do is: new motor, belt drive, new speedo, fork brace, hook up the original mechanical tach, (or perhaps a digital if I can find one to match the speedo), and install a twin-leading front wheel/brake.
Wow, it's been almost 3 years, and I still have about another $3500 to throw at this damn thing before I'm happy. Plus another big chunk when I finally get the Gemini heads. ;D
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Got a picture of this fairing? We can't let you uglify this bike with one of those generic super-1980s quarter fairings, now...
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This fairing here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Emgo-Viper-Fairing-70-52501-/391079730180?hash=item5b0e2b1c04&vxp=mtr
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I've also been eye-balling the Air-Tech vintage full fairings. Obviously quite a bit more expensive and out of my price range at the moment. But it would definitely seal the deal for an authentic vintage racer.
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/triumph/triumphbsa.htm#price
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In an attempt to regain a little more low and mid range torque, and to help save what little crap hearing I have left, I decided to put the core back in the Dunstall. It had a great sound, but shit was it loud. Sunday, I rode over to my friends house to hang out. It was really nice out so I wore my half lid, and the bike happened to be running fan-freaking-tastic. While riding back home I was getting on her a little bit, even broke the rear tire loose making a right turn. ;D But, when I got home and parked it I noticed my ears were ringing pretty bad. That's not good, and I don't like wearing ear plugs when I ride because it detracts from my surroundings.
Anyway, so I put the core in, and it fired on the first kick despite it being 30*F and snowing. It sounded real nice, still had a nice volume but not overkill, and MUCH more mellow on revs. I only went about 50' in the parking lot because I didn't want to get the bike grimed up, but the throttle felt responsive and much much quieter. I'll try to get her out this weekend.
Oh, and despite my primary cover being loose, since shaving the rotor down, it no longer rubs the alternator while hanging there. So I've been taking short rides here and there until the new primary chain shows up. :)
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I have been using the removable baffle core to do minor tuning adjustments for seasonal temp changes. When it's cold, I put the baffle in, and it richens it up some. Easier than re-jetting the carb. And I don't care as much if the sound isn't as glorious because it's cold, and I'm bundled up anyway.
If your hearing is being affected, it is best to tone it down. You may have to lean it out some after putting the baffle in, if it was tuned just right with it out.
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I rode for about a half hour on Saturday and Sunday and she was running really good. I pulled the timing back about 2° more and she was running Really good. Still has a nice bark but much more throaty. Best she's run since the changes.
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I rode for about a half hour on Saturday and Sunday and she was running really good. I pulled the timing back about 2° more and she was running Really good. Still has a nice bark but much more throaty. Best she's run since the changes.
Then no more tinkering that tune! If shes good ride it!
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Then no more tinkering that tune! If shes good ride it!
Nope! Still not happy with the lack of advance. I think when I replace the valve springs I am going to install a base gasket under each cylinder and try to get the cylinder pressures to around 140-145psi. Has plenty of torque but not a whole lot up on top. I guess I could still try 106 octane "pump" gas, but $7/gal.
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Hydrographic film is in my possession! Now I need to do a few small parts and make sure it is still good and practice. Super excited!
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So, this is how I'm thinking of doing the seat pan. :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0421151538b_zpsqbky54pa.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0421151538b_zpsqbky54pa.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0421151539a_zpszald2zsa.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0421151539a_zpszald2zsa.jpg.html)
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Thats real chopper of you :p
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Here's the carbon fiber design. I messed up dipping it, but still came out descent.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0422151147_zps4dydvkso.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0422151147_zps4dydvkso.jpg.html)
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Carbon version 2 with deep bronze base coat.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0422151253a_zpsoduaw72z.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0422151253a_zpsoduaw72z.jpg.html)
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That does look decent. How durable is that material? If you ever have to redo it how much of bitch would it be?
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You can sand or blast it back off. It is a very thin layer so it doesn't cause any recoat issues. No different than regular paint once clear coated.
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While trying to figure out the bike is running slow, I pulled the plugs tho have a peek. Turns out it is now running richer than it ever had before. Still running richer on the right cylinder, but that is the blackest plug that had ever come out of the bike. I guess it's time for plug chops.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0422151708a_zpsyfwkzpju.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0422151708a_zpsyfwkzpju.jpg.html)
Also, while looking over the bike I notice the exhaust just hanging. Turns out the mounting bracket on the muffler failed, so I'll remove it and bring it to work for welding. Good news is that the rest of the exhaust is solid and didn't loosen at all from dangling.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0422151714_zpsuose7xh2.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0422151714_zpsuose7xh2.jpg.html)
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Ace, should I try dropping the needle 1 notch? The last couple rides have been all 1/4 - 3/4 throttle riding.
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It's worth a try.
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I'm still thinking of original ideas for the white on the handle bar dents on the tank, when I came across this.....
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Screenshot_2015-04-23-13-29-24_zpsxblwq0zr.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Screenshot_2015-04-23-13-29-24_zpsxblwq0zr.png.html)
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Looking at your plugs especially the one on the right shows your annealing on the ground strap just past the curve towards the end of the strap. I think just c*nt hair of advancement should move the mark towards that perfect spot at the bend. I could be wrong and maybe I'm not seeing the mark correctly because of the light. Either way you are close. I think you are extremely close on all adjustments. A little fine tuning and you will be spot on. It would be interesting to see some pics after some plug chops taken at different throttle positions. I know it is kind of a hassle but you have to take the plug out anyway after the chop and I know that phone of yours is close at hand. If you do try to get a pic down inside the plug.
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Ok thanks! Will give that a try after I get the exhaust fixed.
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Hey!
I like the ACE of Spades skull thing.
Check out my Dead Man's Hand with Royal Enfield playing cards, and the coolest and most awesome Ace of Spades that I have ever seen! I had this done by an artist that was a member here years ago, and I still have it. I will probably get shirts or coffee cups made up with this one day.
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Wow! That's a great deck of cards there. That Ace sure would look sexy on the Blackhawk too. ;D
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Wow! That's a great deck of cards there. That Ace sure would look sexy on the Blackhawk too. ;D
Use it if you want it.
That's the only resolution jpg that I have. I lost the high resolution one in a computer crash.
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Use it if you want it.
That's the only resolution jpg that I have. I lost the high resolution one in a computer crash.
Thanks, but super lame about losing the original.
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Thanks, but super lame about losing the original.
I know. It was a bummer when I lost the original.
I really love the design, but I have never used it on anything yet. I just really like the artwork.
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Check out my Dead Man's Hand with Royal Enfield playing cards, and the coolest and most awesome Ace of Spades that I have ever seen!
Excellent art work, I'll grant, but I don't know... there's a Kim Kardashian vibe going on there.
I work with a guy who likes to visit Las Vegas - all his souvenir t-shirts and coffee mugs have an image just like that on them... I say go for something a bit more original, Scotty!
Just one opinion... :-X
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How dare you mention a Kardashian on my build thread!!!!! >:( JK ;D
I still like the skull spades thing, but if I do it I just want the spade itself, not the whole card. But that pic that Ace posted might look good on the tail of the seat pan. ;)
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How dare you mention a Kardashian on my build thread!!!!! >:( JK ;D
:-[
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:-[
I said JK. ;)
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Browsing Fleabay a bit before work this morning and found this spade. I think this one will look the part. It has the right style and right colors. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Ace1_zpsiy7djacn.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Ace1_zpsiy7djacn.jpg.html)
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I'm going to go over to my ex-co-worker's new shop this afternoon and get my exhaust welded up. And probably drink a few beers too. :) After I get the exhaust back on the bike, I'll advance the timing a c#*t hair and try to do some plug chops. Being that the right cylinder runs slightly richer than the left, which plug should I be basing my tune off of?
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I'm going to go over to my ex-co-worker's new shop this afternoon and get my exhaust welded up. And probably drink a few beers too. :) After I get the exhaust back on the bike, I'll advance the timing a c#*t hair and try to do some plug chops. Being that the right cylinder runs slightly richer than the left, which plug should I be basing my tune off of?
Aren't you using a single carb on that motor? If so I would think your valve lash would have to be checked and the only other thing is if your intake plenum isn't perfectly sealed (a touch of propane around the intake on each port should verify). The pics of your plugs didn't show that you are too far off. I think the tell
tale sign will be the chops, segmenting your throttle and going from there. There is a lot of satisfaction at getting everything near perfect, but there is also a downside to every upside..........don't drive yourself crazy with the chase.
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There's only maybe 50 miles on the lash. The difference is due to unequal length headers into the 2-1.
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Just make sure that the lean one doesn't get too lean.
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Went over to Eric's shop around noon and welded the exhaust hangar. Must have been the crappiest job I've ever done. He didn't have a welding helmet and had to weld blind. But it was effective and got the job done, and was able to mount the exhaust back up. Now, with seemingly no leaks. ;) Also, I ended up leaving the carb where it was being that the left cylinder did look like a really nice mix, and I'd rather be rich than lean. So no changes were made. I did how ever advance the timing just a tiny bit, and did get a little bit more mid and top range back out of it without detonation. But I didn't get to enjoy it for long. Got about 8 blocks from the house and my new cable end on the clutch failed and pulled thru. Which then lead me to believe "Shit, maybe this bike shifts better without using the clutch....." ??? Never missed a gear or neutral, just a blip and a kick is all it took. And actually, a couple weeks ago I started down shifting without the clutch and haven't had any missed downshifts since doing that. I originally started doing because a car was on my ass and I needed to make a right turn, so I made my hand signal and just blipped the throttle and kicked the lever and she shifted flawlessly. So I started doing it more.
But, I'm still on the fence on how I want to finish off the gas tank. As I mentioned before, I want it to have a vintage appeal but with modern touches. So I went back to my "original" original idea, which is a custom logo my bro-in-law made for me. It says "RE" but is in the style of an 8 ball. Also, I took my shop logo and made it into a vintage looking "bumper" sticker that I'm thinking of putting on the knee dents. Keep in mind, I'm just tossing around ideas until I settle on something I really like.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0425151826b_zpsfgqgyv6h.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0425151826b_zpsfgqgyv6h.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0425151826_zps1xv64eau.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0425151826_zps1xv64eau.jpg.html)
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I personally still think the 8 Ball with an actual number 8, with an ivory color meatball would look best. Just like a billiard ball. It is a natural for that kind of place, and the 8 Ball always has a "tough" reputation that fits with the tough look on the skulls and the Dead Man's Hand card motifs.
That would get my vote.
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I personally still think the 8 Ball with an actual number 8, with an ivory color meatball would look best. Just like a billiard ball. It is a natural for that kind of place, and the 8 Ball always has a "tough" reputation that fits with the tough look on the skulls and the Dead Man's Hand card motifs.
That would get my vote.
The meatballs do look ivory in the shade, and then have a gold shimmer in the sun. So back to the original original ORIGINAL idea. ;D Normally, I just do a paint job, cut and buff and call it good. But I want this one to be special and 98% perfect. I want for the next bike show I enter people to be blown away by vintage, performance, and unique all coming together to make something awesome. It can't be the same as everything else, but can't be over the top either. A perfect blend of tradition and kustom. Honestly, I have never put so much thought into a single paint job. I have changed my mind so many different times just to get it where it is now, which is why I keep asking for opinions. I see about a dozen different ways I could go, any of which would look fine. But I want it to be a show stopper, so it's important to hear how others view it as well.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0426150735b_zpszqymltgc.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0426150735b_zpszqymltgc.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0426150735a_zpspzsyrjmw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0426150735a_zpspzsyrjmw.jpg.html)
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I think that a rounded number font is most suitable, because all the contours on the bike are rounded. The squared 8 with angled corners looks out of place, IMO.
The lower example with the two significantly different size top and bottom of the 8 looks like a stylized lower case letter "g" in some fonts, causing some confusion about what it is.
I think a plain ordinary number 8 might be best in this application. Sometimes simple is best.
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The lower 1 was something I just made in paint quick, but yeah, the proportions are off. And the more "vintage" square one doesn't flow right. I feel like I'm on the right path tho...... ??? :D
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This might look cool on your classic bike. Love the Indian head. Think how many Americans have this embedded into their brain bucket. True Americana.
The second one I enhanced with my Lenovo Photo Master.
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That is cool. Got the parts acid etch primer. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0427150922_zps6ot5sh0s.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0427150922_zps6ot5sh0s.jpg.html)
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Got them in base and pearl now. Just need to let them dry over night and then skulls in the morning. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0427151554_zpsbfs2zawo.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0427151554_zpsbfs2zawo.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0427151553b_zpsrncbfxey.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0427151553b_zpsrncbfxey.jpg.html)
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Love the look of the primary. I thought you mentioned before that your primary comes loose. Is it the inner or outer cover? ERC
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It's the 3 taper head bolts that hold the inner cover around the crank shaft. It hasn't been right since I had to have it welded a while back. I'll make sure to use more loctite this time around.
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I think I found an 8 that I like.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0427151738_zpsoipqffqm.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0427151738_zpsoipqffqm.jpg.html)
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This might look cool on your classic bike. Love the Indian head. Think how many Americans have this embedded into their brain bucket. True Americana.
I tried to reply to this earlier - these days, roughly one in ten of my posts here on the forum just disappear. (http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/ne_nau.gif)
What I wrote was, "I've never seen this image before - am I too young?"
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I tried to reply to this earlier - these days, roughly one in ten of my posts here on the forum just disappear. (http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/ne_nau.gif)
What I wrote was, "I've never seen this image before - am I too young?"
I'm curious about it's origins as well as I've never seen it before.
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Looks like maybe a TV test pattern?
EDIT: I googled "TV test pattern", and that image is all over...
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Sure enough! Look at you Matt! ;)
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Am I really that old? Probably!
Check this out.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Test+Patterns+1960&FORM=RESTAB#view=detail&mid=8586840B52089DBC34A88586840B52089DBC34A8
(http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Test+Patterns+1960&FORM=RESTAB#view=detail&mid=8586840B52089DBC34A88586840B52089DBC34A8)
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Am I really that old? Probably!
Check this out.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Test+Patterns+1960&FORM=RESTAB#view=detail&mid=8586840B52089DBC34A88586840B52089DBC34A8
(http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Test+Patterns+1960&FORM=RESTAB#view=detail&mid=8586840B52089DBC34A88586840B52089DBC34A8)
That had to have given children nightmares of disbelief! :o But thanks for sharing, I never knew such things existed. I only remember the rainbow stripes and test tones.
HOLY EFFING SHIT!!! LOOK WHAT I JUST FOUND!!!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/Skull%20Indian%20Test%20Pattern_zps5gktkjfj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/Skull%20Indian%20Test%20Pattern_zps5gktkjfj.jpg.html)
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That is bad ass!
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Well, it's not perfect, but it still looks pretty good. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0428150703_zps0yzo3ynv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0428150703_zps0yzo3ynv.jpg.html)
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I think it looks good. Relatively stealthy skull look.
Those big open areas in the primary might look good with some aluminum or brass screen epoxied in from the inside. ChuckD has that done on his primary vents on his dry clutch Fireball, and it looks real good.
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Thanks Ace. I plan on using perforated steel our aluminum just like you said. I just put an ivory pinstripe around the skulls on the cowl.
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Got them clear coated! Also added a pinstripe around the skulls on the cowl.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0428151033_zpsnk2jduvo.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0428151033_zpsnk2jduvo.jpg.html)
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Got them installed tonight and damn it looks good! So much so that as I was rolling my bike back into the car port after taking some pics, a police officer that was patrolling the complex stopped and started complimenting it and my work. "Beautiful bike! I really love the old vintage stuff." "It's a '58 Enfield Indian, I built it all myself." "You did an excellent job with it. Enjoy it!" :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0429151945_zps8tvc3zu5.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0429151945_zps8tvc3zu5.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0429151943b_zpsfygn92re.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0429151943b_zpsfygn92re.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0429151943a_zps20o79z01.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0429151943a_zps20o79z01.jpg.html)
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Came out looking real good!
Especially the seat cowl is awesome..
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I gotta say now that it's done...
I'm not a fan of "skull" motifs, but I really dig this, Scotty! Because it doesn't jump up and shout "look at my skull!" and kick your teeth in. It looks to me (in these, photos, anyway) like a randomly patinated unfinished metal, until you get in closer and take a look - you gotta work for it a bit, and I like that! That cowl especially is the balls! Well done, my friend...
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That had to have given children nightmares of disbelief! :o But thanks for sharing, I never knew such things existed. I only remember the rainbow stripes and test tones.
You kids and your color TV's and your... HEY! Get off my lawn!!! (http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/gerg.gif)
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Thanks guys. I decided that I will strategically place decals, likely the dead man's hand and skull test pattern, over the 2 areas on the sides of the cowl that are flawed. You can only see if you look close, tho. Still.
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You kids and your color TV's and your... HEY! Get off my lawn!!! (http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/gerg.gif)
Hahaha! ;D
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That the Shizzle!
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Very nicely done! Lean mean look, especially the see-through-the-middle, love the Kustom touches (wasn't sure about the skulls but it came out awesome), and it's a proper bike (Brit, and Enfield), too!
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Looks great Scott, fantastic job man.
Cheers Charles
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That has turned out very well, Scottie 8) 8) 8)
B.W.
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Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words! Hopefully, I can win a bike show or 2 this time around. :)
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Nice result Scottie. You do beautiful work BTW. If ever skulls were done tastefully, you pulled it off. Now everyone is going to want them. ::)
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Thank you everyone! I greatly appreciate the kind words! As I have mentioned, it's not perfect upon close inspection. But it sure does look fantastic from 6' away! 8) Yesterday, I was repairing the clutch cable end and adjusting the clutch itself by my front door. My new neighbors that moved in 3 months ago talked to me for about 15 minutes about my bike and then ended up inviting me over for their Mayweather/Pacquiao party last night. And that was an awesome time, and it was really cool getting drunk and stoned and only having to walk home 15 yards from their living room to my bed. :) I actually got a lot of compliments yesterday. After I fixed the clutch, I went out for some hot laps around the neighborhood. While out, 1 guy gave me a thumbs up at a light, 2 more guys I caught staring and drooling, and when I got home another neighbor starting telling me how much she really likes the new paint (she remembers it when it was black). A short while later I took the bike down to the mailbox to get the mail and decided to go to the liquor store and pick up a 6 pack of PBR. I parked up on the sidewalk and when I came back out, one of the employees was out smoking a cigarette walking around it in awe admiring all the work I've put into it. As we're chatting about the bike, a guy in a pick up stops in the middle of the driving lane of the parking lot, stares at the bike for a full 20 seconds without saying a word, smiles and gives a thumbs up and drives away. It makes me very happy to have gotten so many comments on my first day riding with the new paint job. :D
However, I think the electrical system is giving me trouble again. The other day I put the voltmeter on the battery while I had the seat off, it read 12.5ish with the ignition off, but when I fired the bike the voltmeter started flaking out big time. Originally I thought that setting the meter on the frame off the bike while it was running damaged the meter itself. Before I always sat the meter on the seat to test electrical, so it was padded. But yesterday I checked an outlet in the house just to see if it was working and it was. My point is, while I was riding, at one point as I was approaching a red light, she stalled for a second and then recovered. I thought the battery was about to die so headed back home about 1.5 miles and never stalled again. I was getting a lot of banging on decel, so I fattened up the air screw a 1/4 turn when I got back. And when I went back to the liquor store later, it was a little quieter and didn't have any stalls. I do also have the idle set at around 900 RPMs right now too. Maybe it was all a fluke, I don't know. I'm going to test the electrical again today thru the wire harness lead to the headlight.
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Picked up some perforated stainless for the primary cover on lunch and got it sanded and polished. I think this should work. :)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0504151227_zps4l7aiqbr.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0504151227_zps4l7aiqbr.jpg.html)
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Got the primary cover finished. Hopefully it doesn't foul anywhere.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0505151541_zps0cz1xrj0.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0505151541_zps0cz1xrj0.jpg.html)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0505151717a_zps5tjxvplj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0505151717a_zps5tjxvplj.jpg.html)
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That looks a lot better, it restores a bit of continuity to the outer case, though I can see a gap in the mesh about halfway along, just above the level plug!
Feel free to ignore this completely, but now that you have put so much hard work into making the rest of the bike look this great, is it time once again to think about that rusting piece of iron you currently use as a fork brace? Perhaps a length of 1/2" diameter round steel bar (nothing larger for weight reasons) if you still want something chunky, but bent into a graceful inverted U shape, and with some neat brackets welded on to line up with the fork lugs. 1/2" tube might work if the walls aren't too thin. Tidy it up, clean and paint it black or get it chromed as suits the rest of the bike. I think that would do a lot more justice to the rest of your labor than what's on there now.
Also the front brake looks as if it could use some adjustment, the brake arm on the brake plate should really be at 90 degrees to the cable (when the brake is pulled on) for maximum efficiency.
A.
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The hole in the mesh is from where I had to trim it to go around the inner reinforcement. Son of bitch moved on me when pounding it into shape.
The rusty brace is just temporary, I plan on buying an actual fork brace with my tax returns but I'm piss broke right now. Brake cable is a little too short and I didn't feel like trimming it a 3rd time, but I may be able to adjust it some. Honestly never noticed It until you just said something.
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I love checking this thread every few days! Always something cool. 8)
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Thanks Chuck!
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Looks great how did you fasten it to the cover? ERC
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Automotive grade 2 part epoxy.
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Lately I've been chasing this detonation problem I've been having. When the timing is at 32* where it should be it detonates a fair amount. Anything below 29* and she's gutless and doesn't accelerate well. Today I added some gun wash to use as an octane booster and made several more timing adjustments. I now have it where it accelerates nicely, but still has a hair of detonation. So, I've come to the conclusion that 150 psi is just too much for a stock 700 twin on pump gas. Sucks because even at about 5/8 throttle she pulls really hard. But if I pull anymore more throttle she starts pinging on me. :(
Sooooo. I need to pull the heads off and add some base gaskets.
Ace - How much should I drop the cylinder pressure and how thick of total gaskets will I need to achieve it?
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One base gasket more should lower you down to 130-140, should be enough if you use high octane fuel.
For the short term have you tried an octane booster in your fuel
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Yes, one thin(.020") base gasket should do it.
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Should I try changing that front sprocket back to an 18T first, or should I go with a smaller engine sprocket?
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Should I try changing that front sprocket back to an 18T first, or should I go with a smaller engine sprocket?
I would try the 18T. Actually, as I mentioned before, I think 19T is best. But since you already have the 18, then it should be okay.
Also, the shorter final drive ratio will make the 3rd-4th gear ratio gap seem better.
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Lately I've been chasing this detonation problem I've been having. When the timing is at 32* where it should be it detonates a fair amount. Anything below 29* and she's gutless and doesn't accelerate well. Today I added some gun wash to use as an octane booster and made several more timing adjustments. I now have it where it accelerates nicely, but still has a hair of detonation. So, I've come to the conclusion that 150 psi is just too much for a stock 700 twin on pump gas. Sucks because even at about 5/8 throttle she pulls really hard. But if I pull anymore more throttle she starts pinging on me. :(
Sooooo. I need to pull the heads off and add some base gaskets.
Ace - How much should I drop the cylinder pressure and how thick of total gaskets will I need to achieve it?
Another [possible] way to lower the cylinder pressure a touch, would be to tighten up on any inlet valve clearance, but this is assuming you are running any to start with, if so it will make the inlet valves shut a gnat's later, which might help. Of course these valves will also open a tiny bit earlier, too, if you do this ;)
B.W.
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Here's a pic of the gun wash contents that I used for octane booster.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/0601151135a_zpsuqaagm8d.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/0601151135a_zpsuqaagm8d.jpg.html)
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Good thing you aren't in California! ;)
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Switched back to the 18T front sprocket this evening. 1 hour 52 minutes. ;) It accelerates waaaay faster now and the pinging is almost gone. I think I can come back another degree to eliminate the knocking and still have solid acceleration. So I think it's time to tear her back down. Insert a base gasket, replace the valve springs and primary chain, replace the electrical, again, and fix the brake anchor bolt that I just noticed is spinning with the stud, so that should be fun to fix.
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Real sweet ride man! I bet you put in a lot of work for that paint job!
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Thanks! I have about 18 hours of body work into the tank, and about 15 hours into paint. And God knows how many hours into wrenching on it. :)
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And God knows how many hours into wrenching on it. :)
I wouldn't bet on that, Scottie... ;)
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Hahaha! ;D
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I can't believe it! I finally got it! ;D
I finally got the timing nailed! After a super shit day at work, I come home bitching about the boss, have a couple of beers, and decide I'm going to "tinker" with the bike. I haul all of my tools out to the car port, not really sure what I was going to do. I decided I was going to take one last stab at the timing. Knowing that the last change I made, I went from good acceleration but slight pinging then retarded about 5-6* and was doggy and slow, I lined up my guide marks. I decided that the mark itself was .013" thick. I wanted to change the timing about 3*, 1*=.0022", so 3* of .013 is roughly 1/3 the thickness, so I roughly adjusted the rotor 1/3 of the width of my mark. You know what? I don't even care if my math makes sense because it freaking worked! LOL ;D
Being Friday night, I detailed her up quick and went down to Sonic for the Hot Rod meet. Had a lot of fun and got lots of compliments and conversation. I even spoke to a guy who owns a '03 AVL that needs a rebuild so I gave him my number and offered to help him out with the rebuild. :)
So, how good is she running? Well, as I was leaving, there was a 2006 Street Rod Camaro and a 2005 Subaru STi leaving in front of me. For 3 stop lights I hung with those guys all the way thru 3rd gear before they started to pull on me. In fact the 2nd light I got the hole shot and was out front until I shifted out of 2nd! Super super super super happy. :D
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Sorry to hear you had a bad day... you've been praising the job (and your boss?) elsewhere, so hopefully this was an isolated incident.
But never mind... great to hear how you nailed the timing!
Now... ;D 8)
I'm still surprised how fiddly it was designed to be...
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Well, without getting into too many details, I basically worked on a rusted ass POS Impreza for 2 days and didn't get paid to finish putting it back together yesterday. And I should mention, I only did this car because no one else in the shop wanted to touch it because it is such a rusted pile of crap. That's ok, I usually show up at work around 7-7:30am in the mornings. I think Monday I won't be showing up until 8:30-9a and I am going to work noticeably slower all day until he finally asks what my problem is. And I'm going to tell him straight up "Why work hard when my hard work is completely ignored and unappreciated?"
And the next time I find my tools on the boss' son's tool cart, I'm going to kick him in the balls! >:(
OK Rant over. :)
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I had a co-worker who seemed to think everyone's tools belonged to him, too.
I let him know I don't loan my tools to ANYONE and the next time I found any of my tools missing one of his (starting with the most expensive) would be in the trash. If he found it before day's end great. If he didn't he was SOL. He was a quick study. ;)
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HoO
Believe it or not, bosses notice things like a employee doing above average work, finishing jobs before they have to, showing up on time, getting along with other employees (expecially if the other employees are butt holes) and other above average stuff.
They might not say it or hand out a bunch "atta boy's" but they will keep it in mind the next time a raise or a step up in job level is available.
They also remember the guy who only does the minimum required, walks around with a chip on his shoulder, comes in to work late, isn't willing to help others...
They might not say anything to that person but you can bet he/she isn't going to get raises or any job opportunities offered to them.
Oh. They probably will get moved to first place but that's not necessarily good.
It's in the, "Who's the first person I want to fire" category.
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In an attempt to keep myself from selling my bike, I think I'm going to disassemble the motor. Probably save up and buy BSA rods and pistons and machine accordingly, ship the cams out to get reworked and just deal with not having the bike running for a couple years. I don't know.
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That's a good plan. I like it. ERC 8)
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Just thinking out loud here, and you may disagree: How about spending only to make it more reliable, not fast. Its fast enough for most needs. You will hold on to it longer and enjoy it more if its more reliable.
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Just thinking out loud here, and you may disagree: How about spending only to make it more reliable, not fast. Its fast enough for most needs. You will hold on to it longer and enjoy it more if its more reliable.
Because I've seen what the stock rods do to the engine cases.
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In an attempt to keep myself from selling my bike, I think I'm going to disassemble the motor. Probably save up and buy BSA rods and pistons and machine accordingly, ship the cams out to get reworked and just deal with not having the bike running for a couple years. I don't know.
This is a good solid plan you have Scottie. You would have problems selling your bike as is and would take a loss. The other problem is that it is your bike, custom made to your likes which makes it more difficult to sell than if it was in stock form. If you can, take your time and fix it correctly and keep it forever. It may be a vehicle you kick yourself for selling down the road.
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. :)
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Yes, some bikes are 'keepers' and I have a few. Here is a 1958 Tiger Cub I bought in 1977 for £50 when I was 12 years old. Here it is, coming off the shelf in the workshop, to go on the road legally for the first time in all that time, for my 50th. Another picture shows her looking pretty and ready to go. Hang in there, Scottie, if she's special to you ...
B.W.
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+1 to Blltrdr.
You've got too much sweat equity invested in that bike, and you'd probably be very hard pressed to find a buyer who would appreciate the fruits of your labor the way you do. Don't sell it unless you have absolutely no other choice...
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Scottie - in case you need more convincing... there's a thread in the Conti section right now (I'm sure you've seen it) with guys lamenting about their old bikes they loved, but they're long gone and they wish they had them back.
Don't become a statistic! ;)
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Looks like the Blackhawk is going to a new home this week. Kind of bitter sweet. It will be nice being able to take care of some debt, but I will miss it. Good news is that I'm selling it to a very good friend and it will be in a better home now. Also looks like I'll be tearing the motor down this winter too to rebuild it and take care of the things I didn't have the money to do. I'll try and talk my friend into joining the forum here so the bike stays in the community.
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Bummer, but in a way the least bummer-ish way to lose a bike.
(Pretend you can't work on anymore it for your buddy anymore once you have enough scratch to buy it back from him cheap... :) )
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Of course, I charge the battery yesterday and she won't run. Idles for 3 seconds and dies. I'm going to replace the fuel tonight and try again, but I have a feeling I need to clean the carb.
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I had ERC measure a conrod for me (because I don't have one handy and can't for the life of me remember how long it is). Turns out I was wrong. It is neither 6 3/8" NOR 6 5/8", it is 6 1/8". But no worries to be had. A quick search and found that the A65 and A10 have the same crank journal, only the A10 is 6.5" CtC and the A65 is 6" CtC. So I'm still in good shape. :D
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/bottom-end/con-rods/conrod-a50-a65-6-0-4340-h-beam-pr.html
Also, I just noticed that the Nikisil T120 pistons for $300 are for the Big Bore kits starting sizes at 76mm, which is way to big for my needs. For 1 it will exceed 750cc which will put me at the bottom of the 850cc bracket for Bonneville. Plus I don't think the cylinders can take that big of a bore. So a No-Go on those pistons.
So I'll need to spend $350 for the full race forged pistons:
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/top-end/pistons/triumph-t120-tr6-650cc-forged-pistons.html
Or $100 on the "High Quality" cast pistons, that seriously look like a damn good piston for $100.
http://www.mapcycle.com/map/index.php/categories/engine/top-end/pistons/triumph-650-1958-later-piston-set.html
Yay! Found it! Wish I had started looking back into this thread from front to back, as it was on page 5. ;D
But man, looking back thru I realized there are some bugs that need to be addressed. Totally forgot this thing has bad valve guides and seats. I know HC's has guides available in std and over-size options. What size should I got with? I've never had to do guides before, so don't know how that works. Any input would be appreciated.
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If you remove or change guides, you must do a valve job or the valve will no longer be concentric with the seat.