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Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Iron barrel gearbox apart
« Last Post by stinkwheel on Today at 12:41:51 pm »
You can remove the gearcase without pulling the whole engine out. You need to pull the four studs out of the back of the gearbox. You may be able to use the existing nuts if there's enough thread showing or you might need a couple of 3/8" cycle thread halfnuts to jam onto them. Then you need to dismount the triangular plates at the top of the gearbox. You sometimes get lucky and can undo the bottom two, pull the bolts and pivot the plates up, you sometimes need to take out the top bolt too, clearance varies. The the whole case can be lifted up and out leaving the short-engine where it is.
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350 J Platform / Re: 350 Classic Reborn Adapted Rev Counter
« Last Post by nissbird on Today at 09:43:30 am »
RC3 with tripper connector
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Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: Fussy Transmission
« Last Post by SteveThackery on Today at 09:12:30 am »
Is this considered pretty normal for the UCE eng/trans? I expect so.

No, certainly not.

I think your gear change technique might be the problem. There is a technique which guarantees no missed gears, and it is extremely simple. Also, it's actually faster than the "normal" technique.

At the moment I expect you change gear like this: clutch in, push the gear lever, release the gear lever, clutch out.  That's not how to do it.  Here is the correct way:

1/ clutch in
2/ push the gear lever
3/ whilst keeping pressure on the gear lever, clutch out
4/ release the gear lever

Step 3/ is obviously the critical one. Quite often, as you let the clutch out, you will feel the gear lever move the rest of the way. Whenever that happens, congratulations, you have just avoided a missed change.

Practice this technique until it is automatic, and use it on every bike you ride.

Motorcycle gearboxes work by sliding the gears sideways until the dogs on the sides of the gears come into engagement. The dogs have flat tops. If the flat tops of the dogs come into contact with each other, then they are blocked from moving the rest of the way into engagement.  It then relies on the selector detent spring to maintain pressure on the dogs as you release the clutch. Sometimes, but by no means always, it will push them the rest of the way into engagement. Maintaining pressure on the gear lever does the same thing, but with 100% reliability.

If you want to get a better insight, there are probably YouTube videos explaining the operation of a motorcycle gearbox.
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Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Iron barrel gearbox apart
« Last Post by richard211 on Today at 08:33:39 am »

I was working on a 4 speed gearbox that had worn bearings last week. The counter shaft cast iron bush was worn out as well. When I had a closer look at the sleeve fitted on the end of the countershaft, I noticed the groove had sharp edges that was slowly over time taking material out of the cast iron bush.

 If you know someone or have access to a lathe machine, the repair is fairly straight forward. To sort out the damage on the gearbox casing, I would use a 3 leg brake caliper hone mounted in a drill and resurface the damaged area. To get the cast iron bush to fit into the gearbox casing, I would then machine a sleeve that would press fit onto the bush and then install it on the gearbox casing, it would also be a good idea to use a sleeve retaining compound.
  I would strongly suggest replacing the sleeve on the end of the layshaft with one made / machined out of bronze so that it prevents the same failure from happening in the future.
  Another upgrade that can be done is converting the gearbox to run using gear oil. It involves replacing the stock bearing with bearings that have seals on one side. I used SKF 6206 2RS1 and 6303 2RS1. These bearings have seals on both sides, we just have to remove the seal from one side and during installation of the bearing keep the side that has the oil seal towards the outside of the gearbox casing, this will allow gear oil to lube the bearing but not leak past the bearing.
 The reason I suggested using a brake hone to resurface the damage on the gearbox casing is that this work can be done without having to take the engine out of the frame and remove the gearbox casing.
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In 1st or 2nd gear less than 2.000 rpm is no problem, at least it shouldn't be.
The question remains why it is only happening with higher temperatures and why that light blinks.

Rather than speculating on the basis of too little information to do a proper diagnose I'm gonna wait what happens after the service centre has replaced the ignition coil.
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Other marques / Re: icebear
« Last Post by him a layin on Today at 07:50:27 am »
you're right, of course. not my problem. i'll ride it a couple of times and maybe my attitude will improve, meanwhile i'll have the yamaha to play with. life is good.
7
I‘m using the adjustment plates from Hitchcocks: http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/40215?cont_page=Royal-Enfield-Interceptor-650-Accessories&sort=idDown&facet=Handlebars%20and%20Controls. My foot pegs have now moved about 1 inch forward and downwards which is much more comfortable for me.
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I guess that they are manufactured locally, the style of their silencers is really unique .
Anyway, thanks for the help. :)
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Wanted / Re: 411 Himalayan for sale
« Last Post by AzCal Retred on Today at 03:40:27 am »
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Wanted / Re: Pre-Unit Models for sale
« Last Post by AzCal Retred on Today at 03:37:07 am »
5 speed military Bullet...

2007 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - $2,499 (Fort Collins, CO)

https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/mcd/d/loveland-2007-royal-enfield-bullet-500/7729850919.html
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