[Arschloch]

Me too, best way to counteract unpleasant engine noise is to attack the source. Like for example the lash on the cam gears. Which is not all that easy because when the engine warms up the axial distance between the gears increases as the cam shafts are mounted in an aluminium housing that has an rather big thermal expansion compared to the steel gears and the lash increases proportionally to the engine temperature. Nevertheless a lot can be done, however it probably won't ever be as quiet as a chain as in the 650ies.

[jez]

Rode from the welsh border to the west coast to fix a customer. Pretty close to Paul Henshaw's place actually, almost did a detour down to his place but stuck to side roads. Thought I'd better fill up. £3.87. The bike had done roughly 130 miles to the gallon. In smaller USA gallons that's about 108 miles. I was  on singletrack hill roads for half the way, but hey all hail to Hitchcocks!

[jez]

After further er discussion it was  around 95mpg. Think if I was somewhere flat at a constant 3000 [55ish with my gearing] it might well be three figures

[Guaire]

So today I found out that my GT 535 is not sending to current to the H4 connections and nothing to the black/grey wires for the pilot light.
  My probe read the H4 connections with null at the Positive wire. And zero at one ground. And 0.1 volts on the other ground. The first place I’ll look and do a clean up are the handle bar controls. Probably snotty in there. This bike sat for at least two years.
  It has less the 300 miles on it!

[Arschloch]

I am about to make an oil pressure indicator, does anyone know of an oil pressure switch that is not as large as the typical automotive switches One that switches somewhere between 5-15 PSI?

Can't wait skipping looking at the riduculous oil window.

[Guaire]

So today I found out that my GT 535 is not sending to current to the H4 connections and nothing to the black/grey wires for the pilot light.
  My probe read the H4 connections with null at the Positive wire. And zero at one ground. And 0.1 volts on the other ground. The first place I’ll look and do a clean up are the handle bar controls. Probably snotty in there. This bike sat for at least two years.
  It has less the 300 miles on it!

I have sprayed the handlebar switches with cleaner. I also sprayed the connectors inside the headlight cluster.
  The Green wire is the positive. On the wiring diagram I see Green wires going to Front Brake Switch, Rear Brake Switch, Intrument Cluster, Brake/Tail Lamp. I can’t see where the Green wire gets power.
  If I apply 12v to the Green wire on the left handlebar switch, the H4 bulb lights up. But it won’t light on its own.
  Any ideas?

[Arschloch]

I don't have the wirering diagram in front of me, but I think the green wire should be getting power from a red wire that's coming from the main key switch. Might be an issue at that switch or a wire loose?

[Guaire]

Out of the main ignition switch, a Red and Red/White enter the headlight bucket. The two leads go into the the big bundle and out of the bucket.
  I’ve done about everything I can with the switches.
  The only things not working are the H4 and the pilot light Black and Grey.
  I don’t see on the wiring diagram where Red feeds the Green.
  I’ll do a scan of the manual on the wiring.
 I’ll tray again tomorrow.
Thanks, Joe.

[ace.cafe]

I am about to make an oil pressure indicator, does anyone know of an oil pressure switch that is not as large as the typical automotive switches One that switches somewhere between 5-15 PSI?

Can't wait skipping looking at the riduculous oil window.

I looked on the internet, but didn't find any that were smaller than typical.

[Arschloch]

Out of the main ignition switch, a Red and Red/White enter the headlight bucket. The two leads go into the the big bundle and out of the bucket.
  I’ve done about everything I can with the switches.
  The only things not working are the H4 and the pilot light Black and Grey.
  I don’t see on the wiring diagram where Red feeds the Green.
  I’ll do a scan of the manual on the wiring.
 I’ll tray again tomorrow.
Thanks, Joe.

I had a simillar issue about 3 years back, can't remember what exactly the problem was. The solution was to be found within of the headlight, the pilot light and the H4 use the same wire to the ground (I THINK) which was causing interruptions. However, if you have no juice your issue might be different, unless you measured it to the ground which was not grounded....?

[Guaire]

I’m using one of these:
https://www.powerprobetek.com/product/power-probe-3/

It tells if I have a ground or a POS. It can also apply a 12 volt power if I hit its button.
  I know there’s no power on the Green. But,  so far I don’t know why.

[Arschloch]

I looked on the internet, but didn't find any that were smaller than typical.

Well, ordered a couple of different designs. Other than that it seems that I successfully inverted the function on a banjo brake switch..   ...before it exploded under 200psi pressure testing.

[Guaire]

I’m using one of these:
https://www.powerprobetek.com/product/power-probe-3/

It tells if I have a ground or a POS. It can also apply a 12 volt power if I hit its button.
  I know there’s no power on the Green. But,  so far I don’t know why.

I found a blown fuse. After replacing it, the headlight works.
  The bad news - the rear running light, the rear brake light aren’t working.
 On the rear brake light, the Red White wire reads hot. Weird.

[tooseevee]

    Well, I've kept up with all these almost 1,100 posts even though I'm a dinosaur with an AVL (and this goes for them, too  ) and all I can think is there are just way too many, wires, circuits, connectors, plugs, switches, black boxes and arcane doo-dads on bikes being piled on more and more in the past 20 years.

     The average person now has no chance of dealing with it and must rely on the "service" of "experts" in a secret "service area" where you are not even allowed to enter to talk over what is wrong.

        It's just all out of control as far as I'm concerned. I built a bike totally from scratch in '99 - 2003 with 7 wires (I drew up my own wiring diagram over a winter and it started first thing (I was amazed!) and everything worked and it ran perfectly until 2016 when I gave it to my best friend (who was around for the whole build) and he's riding it still.

         I'm not saying we shouldn't have electronic and electrical progress (you can't stop progress), but the average guy can't even keep a bike on the road nowadays and in a lot of cases is a total victim in the whole "service department" machine.

        Just sayin'       

[Guaire]

    Well, I've kept up with all these almost 1,100 posts even though I'm a dinosaur with an AVL (and this goes for them, too  ) and all I can think is there are just way too many, wires, circuits, connectors, plugs, switches, black boxes and arcane doo-dads on bikes being piled on more and more in the past 20 years.

     The average person now has no chance of dealing with it and must rely on the "service" of "experts" in a secret "service area" where you are not even allowed to enter to talk over what is wrong.

        It's just all out of control as far as I'm concerned. I built a bike totally from scratch in '99 - 2003 with 7 wires (I drew up my own wiring diagram over a winter and it started first thing (I was amazed!) and everything worked and it ran perfectly until 2016 when I gave it to my best friend (who was around for the whole build) and he's riding it still.

         I'm not saying we shouldn't have electronic and electrical progress (you can't stop progress), but the average guy can't even keep a bike on the road nowadays and in a lot of cases is a total victim in the whole "service department" machine.

        Just sayin'     

I’m trying to use the mystic “Wiring Diagram”. It’s beyond sensible. At the very bottom, there’s fuse 4 and fuse 5. At the very top are more fuses. There is absolutely zero connection between the paper picture and the motorcycle.
  I checked the fuses when I saw what I thought the fuse box. I had to figure out how to open the box!
  I have no idea where the Green wire gets it’s positive charge from. The Green wire line runs between brake switches and some light switches.
  The Green and RedWhite pair are connected to the rear brake light switch. They run into the tail light. At the rear brake switch, the RW reads hot at 12v. This is the opposite of what it should be, I think.

I have good tools. I have a VOM meter. I  I have a Power Probe III. It gets connected to the battery, POS and Neg. When I touch any wire it will light pos or neg. At the touch of a button, it will send 12v of power to a wire or a device.
  With all that, I don’t know how to fix this thing.

BTW, the instruments don’t have to run on wires, complicating the electronic pile. They use to be mechanical. They worked.