Author Topic: Things are looking up  (Read 3037 times)

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mtrue77

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on: July 04, 2021, 10:00:52 am
A series of short videos from yesterday morning as I was trying to put a few things back together.  These are part 8 and 9. 

https://youtu.be/ucytwU0CVBU

https://youtu.be/KQI4Mske3n8
Michael T
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2009 AVL


tooseevee

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Reply #1 on: July 04, 2021, 12:06:56 pm
A series of short videos from yesterday morning as I was trying to put a few things back together.  These are part 8 and 9. 

https://youtu.be/ucytwU0CVBU

https://youtu.be/KQI4Mske3n8

           Where are Parts 1 through 7?

            A little advice for your sprag clutch: Make a habit of killing the engine with the decompressor. You're getting that little kickback when you kill it with the key and each one is another little blow to the sprag. Also, put pressure on the decomp lever at the same time you press the starter button. It will crank faster and easier. And kickstart it (as you are doing) as much as possible. Avoid the ES like the plague.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Bilgemaster

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Reply #2 on: July 04, 2021, 12:20:55 pm
What "Tooseevee" said about the starter, and I also couldn't find Parts 1-7.

That's a lovely old unmolested AVL. Now stop reading, and go take that old girl for a nice ride and blow out those cobwebs!
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India. Yet it squeaks by here in Virginia.

 


mtrue77

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Reply #3 on: July 04, 2021, 12:30:35 pm
Thank you both.  Re: parts 1-7..... 3min each, I didn't want to load anyone up with my home movies.  They're mostly me pointing at parts I can't identify.  I'll post them here.  I just wanted to get those last two parts up to get that distinctive sound of the engine running.
Michael T
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mtrue77

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Reply #4 on: July 04, 2021, 12:38:15 pm
Looks like i got parts 1-5, 8, and 9 onto YouTube.  Here are 1-5 (mostly just me rambling, but you asked).

Part 1  https://youtu.be/oNn8z4GboGs
Part 2  https://youtu.be/ETXyPfcuHuI
Part 3  https://youtu.be/Bx9oP-2mBuY
Part 4  https://youtu.be/iFhQ5lBSkw4
Part 5  https://youtu.be/9xhG8U4A4NM
Michael T
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mtrue77

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Reply #5 on: July 04, 2021, 02:28:17 pm
Michael T
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tooseevee

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Reply #6 on: July 05, 2021, 02:23:15 pm
And part 6   https://youtu.be/SdAdeR6oP3s

And part 7   https://youtu.be/KfTCNZl8zeM

        The right side case is on correctly. You mention that it looks like it's at the wrong angle. It's not. It matches the angles of the frame members.

         Your "empty box" is an air plenum. It's to provide the engine with a big gulp of "at rest" air that isn't being disturbed by wind or rain or "whatever" when the piston goes down on the intake stroke.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


zisforzephyr

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Reply #7 on: July 28, 2021, 06:56:00 pm
Looking and sounding great Michael, I'm puzzling through a 2009 AVL thats been sitting for quite a bit too long (all the air hoses wore out) so I feel your pain in putting all that back together. One of the parts you were puzzling through is what I've seen called the PAV unit, which from what I gather is both to meet emissions standards and to provide a richer mixture at higher altitudes - theres some evidence that its unnecessary and can be removed but I haven't gotten that far. The problem I'm having is I can't seem to buy a carb flange with the little PAV nipple that's the right size. Will keep a close eye on this and see if we both come across similar problems to solve. 


mtrue77

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Reply #8 on: August 27, 2021, 07:19:45 pm
I've been getting in a few short rides (15-20 miles).  It's been so hot, though.  And since I'm "all the gear, all the time," I'm soaked before I head out.  Good thing the machine just takes one or two kicks.

I need to take it on about a 150-mile ride soon, so I'm trying to regain some confidence in it.  I've noticed some high pitched jingling sound, but haven't found anything loose.  It's not from my keys lying against the handlebar.

Anyway, here's a photo of what I found under the engine.  May not be related to the sound, but I'm sure that bracket is meant to be attached to something.  Maybe I'll fasten it to something with a zip tie.  I'm guessing that wire has to do with the side-stand cutout, but I don't know.

A few minutes from yesterday's ride:  https://youtu.be/UyP6axeHiMg

Michael T
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2009 AVL


tooseevee

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Reply #9 on: August 27, 2021, 09:16:51 pm
I've noticed some high pitched jingling sound, but haven't found anything loose.

Anyway, here's a photo of what I found under the engine.  May not be related to the sound, but I'm sure that bracket is meant to be attached to something.  Maybe I'll fasten it to something with a zip tie.  I'm guessing that wire has to do with the side-stand cutout, but I don't know.

 

           I'm going to guess that the wire is from your neutral switch. If you get a bright light you can see if the wire comes from a "thing" that is screwed into the transmission.

           I'm guessing that the bracket was to support the wire & that it originally ran  through the hole that your pen is stuck through. You can pull the connector off the neutral switch & run it back through the hole if you so choose.

           Your high-pitched jingling sound could be pinging. Pinging is not good. Are you trying to accelerate in too high a gear?

            Google pinging.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2021, 09:24:14 pm by tooseevee »
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


tooseevee

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Reply #10 on: August 27, 2021, 09:33:31 pm
One of the parts you were puzzling through is what I've seen called the PAV unit, which from what I gather is both to meet emissions standards and to provide a richer mixture at higher altitudes - theres some evidence that its unnecessary and can be removed but I haven't gotten that far. The problem I'm having is I can't seem to buy a carb flange with the little PAV nipple that's the right size. Will keep a close eye on this and see if we both come across similar problems to solve.

       Chances are you'll never find that spacer with the nipple except on another AVL or from someone who removed their original BS 29 Mikuni & didn't throw it all away like I did.

        I removed ALL the PAV stuff (& the "soak your air filter with oil" system) a long time ago, but I did run the BS 29 for at least one season or 2 beFORE I installed the TM 32 carb. The BS 29 ran just fine with that little nipple cut off & the hole plugged up with J-B Weld. To me it was just an air leak  :)
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


mtrue77

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Reply #11 on: August 28, 2021, 03:13:40 pm
Pinging.  I hadn't considered that.  I'll keep that in mind when I ride later today. 

Actually, I probably coddle this machine more than anyone in India would.  I do tend to run in as high a gear as seems comfortable to the engine, keeping rpm's low, mindful not to lug the engine.  Unless I'm accelerating gradually, I always downshift first.  And I'm mindful of how the engine feels when I'm heading uphill.

I went out to the shed this morning for some inspection.  It was hard to get a good photo, but while looking for something to zip tie that hanger to, I found a free-floating steel tube (sleeve).  Not sure what the point of it is, but it doesnt seem structural.  Please comment.

I may have found and corrected the rattling sound.  We'll see.  https://youtu.be/8V3Z_It8LY0

« Last Edit: August 28, 2021, 03:29:22 pm by mtrue77 »
Michael T
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Reply #12 on: August 28, 2021, 04:34:50 pm
Looks like a spacer to maintain proper distance so frame doesn't close up when engine is removed. Put some black silicone in the cracks to preclude buzzing about, see if anything changes. I'd never have heard that! - ACR -
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #13 on: August 28, 2021, 04:50:55 pm
[...Snip!]

I may have found and corrected the rattling sound.  We'll see.  https://youtu.be/8V3Z_It8LY0

Indeed! That loose headlamp bezel would likely cause a "merry rattlery". I've just left this comment on your video:

Yup! That would cause a rattle. If you cannot get it buttoned down sufficiently for whatever reason, you may wish to look into a 7 inch headlamp conversion kit. Those 5ΒΌ inch bezels were sort of a cockamamie bodge developed to make the headlamp "screw-adjustable" in conformity with U.S. Department of Transportation standards for importation, and are only found on later U.S. export models. While you're in the headlamp guts anyhow, you may also consider removing a sort of "dogbone" wiring connector that disables or bypasses the handlebar light switch, forcing the headlamp into an "always on" state when running--another later DOT requirement. This will restore functionality to the light switch instead of just having a "Nuttin' Button" there. You'll find it all described at https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=23817
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India. Yet it squeaks by here in Virginia.

 


mtrue77

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Reply #14 on: August 28, 2021, 07:10:47 pm
Thank you for the input.  It hadn't occurred to me, but I'm going to try to inject some silicone or gutter cement or something inside that spacer.  I tightened up that headlight bezel, and that rattley sound has gone away.  Such a thrill when I manage to fix something.  I put in about 25 miles.

About halfway out, I was sensing some jerky motion.  What now?  It went on for a while.  Seemed like the engine wasn't getting fuel on every intake stroke.  So, I pulled off the highway into a parking lot, and the engine died.  Looked at the fuel line, and it looked slightly more transparent than normal.  Switched to RES, and watched the fuel flow down into the line.  Made it to a gas station a couple miles away.

If it's not one thing, it's something else.  Several years ago, i had to replace (twice) what I refer to as the sending unit (the grey thing on the front axle that spins the speedometer cable).  My speedometer has never had smooth operation.  Today, it was bouncing around more than normal, or it was indicating a speed that I knew was less than what I was doing.  At another time, it was indicating a speed that I knew was more than I was doing.  I know the cable needs to be lubricated from time to time.  A project for tomorrow.  It's pouring right now. 
Michael T
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Reply #15 on: August 28, 2021, 07:43:20 pm
My speedo reading depends on ambient temperature! I just ride by engine sound & feel. When it feels happy and won't pull a taller gear, that's the speed & gear to run in. Someone comes up behind you, pull over & lett'em by.

The in-line fuel line filter on mine needs to be burped all the way to the float bowl. Once the line's solid all is well. Otherwise I've had it starve out, not enough flow & elevation differential to purge on it's own.
A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


Mr_84

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Reply #16 on: August 28, 2021, 11:29:37 pm
Pinging.  I hadn't considered that.  I'll keep that in mind when I ride later today. 

Actually, I probably coddle this machine more than anyone in India would.  I do tend to run in as high a gear as seems comfortable to the engine, keeping rpm's low, mindful not to lug the engine.  Unless I'm accelerating gradually, I always downshift first.  And I'm mindful of how the engine feels when I'm heading uphill.

I went out to the shed this morning for some inspection.  It was hard to get a good photo, but while looking for something to zip tie that hanger to, I found a free-floating steel tube (sleeve).  Not sure what the point of it is, but it doesnt seem structural.  Please comment.

I may have found and corrected the rattling sound.  We'll see.  https://youtu.be/8V3Z_It8LY0


I had this loose tube on my iron belly too , the foot peg rod runs through it, I guess it's there to stop to much crush on the rear engine cases and crush of the frame when the foot pegs are tightened up .try a couple of shim spacing washers to make an exact fit
« Last Edit: August 28, 2021, 11:36:01 pm by Mr_84 »