[grahamb1]

I've taken the cam cover off my Interceptor have it powder coated.  While it was off, I thought I'd check the valve clearances. 

The bike has only done 100 miles since its first service,  but I thought I may as well do the check anyway. 

In his posting on July 10th last year, twocoolgliders stated that no special tools are required to do the check.

The manual says that after aligning the 'L' mark on the end of the camshaft with the cylinder head, (i.e. when the LH piston is at TDC) a special tool (Part No. ST30260/a) is required which locates in a slot in the camshaft on the RH side and rests on the cylinder head.  The diagram shows the tool in place which requires removal of the top of the camshaft bearing housing.

Can anybody explain what this special tool does?  If the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, what else do you need to do before checking the clearances?

I haven't made any adjustment yet, until I hear from the experts out there, but I've done the job many times on my Guzzi V7 with no problems.

Also, the owner manual states that valve clearance is mandatory at every 12 months even if the vehicle has not covered the specified kms. What is the logic behind that?

[supercub]

You dont need the special tool and dont disassemble anything. You only need feeler gauges, combination wrench and a stubby flat blade screwdriver.

[Dexter]

Also, the owner manual states that valve clearance is mandatory at every 12 months even if the vehicle has not covered the specified kms. What is the logic behind that?

RE wants you to support their dealer network with some cash for an unnecessary inspection?

[NVDucati]

I've taken the cam cover off my Interceptor have it powder coated.  While it was off, I thought I'd check the valve clearances. 

...

Also, the owner manual states that valve clearance is mandatory at every 12 months even if the vehicle has not covered the specified kms. What is the logic behind that?

I had a Honda guy (American Honda, importer) explain to me a similar service note for the TL / SL 125 engines. My question centered on the fact that a trials bike or a SL125 woods bike don't put on many miles in 12 months. His reply was that the valve adj and oil change need was based equally on the number of heat cycles as the actual miles. That was in the early '70s. I didn't challenge him on it. 

[Starpeve]

I had a Honda guy (American Honda, importer) explain to me a similar service note for the TL / SL 125 engines. My question centered on the fact that a trials bike or a SL125 woods bike don't put on many miles in 12 months. His reply was that the valve adj and oil change need was based equally on the number of heat cycles as the actual miles. That was in the early '70s. I didn't challenge him on it.

Seems fair enough theory.

[lucky phil]

Seems fair enough theory.

Heat cycling has zero to do with valve seat recession or wear on the valve, the seat or the cam and follower/bucket/shim. Valve clearances change because of wear and you get wear from operation. The Honda rep was just trying to justify the unjustifiable with regards to clearance checks. Oil changes with 1970's spec oil, that's another thing entirely.
Ciao 

[Intybe]

Heat cycling has zero to do with valve seat recession or wear on the valve, the seat or the cam and follower/bucket/shim. Valve clearances change because of wear and you get wear from operation. The Honda rep was just trying to justify the unjustifiable with regards to clearance checks. Oil changes with 1970's spec oil, that's another thing entirely.
Ciao

Hi Phil, re bikes that have required valve adjustments at first 500km service (of which there are many reported in various threads here): is that because they were sent from the factory incorrectly set or do they wear particularly fast during the running in period?

Mine's due for it's first twelve month service, but it's only done 2700km since the run-in service (3200 total). I don't ride it aggressively. Will the tappets have worn much? Do I need to check them? Perhaps an oil and filter change (as well as the others specified service checks) will suffice?

Speaking of oil: Does it go off, like milk or butter after a certain period of time? Should one use freshly purchased oil or is it okay to use the remainder left over in the 4/5/6ltr container from previous service first and top up with the freshly purchased stuff, ie can I manage my bike's consumables the same way I manage my refridgerated stuff?

[Starpeve]

Hi Phil, re bikes that have required valve adjustments at first 500km service (of which there are many reported in various threads here): is that because they were sent from the factory incorrectly set or do they wear particularly fast during the running in period?

Mine's due for it's first twelve month service, but it's only done 2700km since the run-in service (3200 total). I don't ride it aggressively. Will the tappets have worn much? Do I need to check them? Perhaps an oil and filter change (as well as the others specified service checks) will suffice?

Speaking of oil: Does it go off, like milk or butter after a certain period of time? Should one use freshly purchased oil or is it okay to use the remainder left over in the 4/5/6ltr container from previous service first and top up with the freshly purchased stuff, ie can I manage my bike's consumables the same way I manage my refridgerated stuff?

Used oils have contaminants in them that are destructive to engine components.

[Intybe]

Used oils have contaminants in them that are destructive to engine components.

I get that, Starpeve. I was asking about the unused leftover oil, ie oil is sold in 4/5/6ltr containers, but bike only takes 3.1 ltr/ oil change: Is the remainder waste or can it be used at the next service, a year later?

[Starpeve]

I get that, Starpeve. I was asking about the unused leftover oil, ie oil is sold in 4/5/6ltr containers, but bike only takes 3.1 ltr/ oil change: Is the remainder waste or can it be used at the next service, a year later?
Okay 👍. As I understand it, the shelflife of unused oil is fairly long. No doubt it has one, but it’s not something you hear about much. Maybe Phil can chip in here?

[Starpeve]

Damn! I inserted my response wrong. Sorry 🤪

[supercub]

Seens like the tappet setting initially done at the RE factory was done in haste, the adjustment shouldn't be go out so much in 300 miles to be way out of spec like mine was. I have set tappets after a head rebuild on a few other bikes and gone back after 500 miles to check the clearance and they hadn't significantly changed. Unused oil from a sealed container is fine.

[RecoilRob]

When an engine is new, you have 6 mating surfaces in the valve-train that need to wear in.....two make the clearance get smaller and the other 4 larger, so they're taking their best estimation as to how much to allow for on initial setup.   Modern material science and lubricants should minimize the break-in wear so I think the main issue here is noise...both for emission testing and consumer acceptance.

Many consumers don't think that they should be able to hear the motor running...valve-train wise so the tendency would be to try to keep things as tight as possible to prevent warranty issues with people bitching that their valves are 'ticking'....even though they are supposed to 'tick' when properly adjusted.   They can get downright noisy if set to the wide side of acceptable clearances and really should be set that way if the motor is going to be thrashed upon.

Most people find their 650's run better after the initial valve adjustment ...me included...which would likely be from the slight reduction in overlap from opening up the clearances which makes them idle better and pull harder down low.   I've experimented on the Suzuki SV1000's measuring the duration change from min to max clearances and it's about 4 degrees so you can change the overlap about 8 going from min to max...which on mine increased the idle rpm by over 300 without any other changes.   Valve clearances are one of the tuning options you have when trying to decide on cam selection....loosen or tighten to decrease or increase duration and see how the engine responds...then pick the new cam accordingly.

Trying to sell anything to a large consumer group who might not be mechanically savvy means you probably need to do things slightly differently than if you were selling to a very knowledgeable base.   Most experienced mechanics know that solid lifters are supposed to make enough noise for you to hear...not to the point of clattering...but that busy light ticking almost sewing machine kind of sound that means the clearances are just right.

[Yinzer]

I've experimented on the Suzuki SV1000's measuring the duration change from min to max clearances and it's about 4 degrees so you can change the overlap about 8 going from min to max...which on mine increased the idle rpm by over 300 without any other changes.

Interesting...
I go a little tight on the intake & loose on the exhaust even though they talk about it as drawing the feeler gauge over a magnet.

[grahamb1]

Lots of useful information, thanks, but no-one has mentioned the com TDC aligning plate, except to say that it's not needed.  Why would RE go to the trouble of making a special tool like this if it's not needed?