Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum

Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: suitcasejefferson on March 10, 2014, 08:50:24 pm

Title: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 10, 2014, 08:50:24 pm
Rather than starting a new thread for everything, I thought I would put everything here. Most of it should apply to all the UCE bikes.

I have 127 miles on it so far, taking my time about breaking it in. So far I have noticed the following. The front brake squeals loudly. I'm wondering if the pads got contaminated somehow. The header pipe is badly discolored near the 02 sensor. I'm assuming it is a single wall pipe. If this is normal, it's not a problem. My old '66 Bonneville did the same thing. I just wondered if this could be a sign of overheating. The engine does not seem to get really hot, I can put my hand on the valve cover while riding and not get burned. The shifting is very vague and a bit notchy (compared to a modern Japanese bike) I've hit several false neutrals. It is not clunky however. Maybe I just need more practice with it.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: azcatfan on March 10, 2014, 09:24:43 pm
The shifting you can overcome by leaving pressure on the shifter as you release the clutch.  Once the clutch is released let the shifter move back to reset for the next shift.  Even on my old 4-Speed sloppy left side shift this works and I haven't had a false neutral in months.

I'll let everyone else close in on the blueing, but sounds normal to me if it is isolated to right near the head.

Brakes shouldn't be noisy, IMO, not when new...
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Royalista on March 10, 2014, 09:26:01 pm
If you mean that shifting must be a well thought action executed with painful accuresse you're right. That is one of the characteristics.
The coloration is another one. If you retain the oem muffler with catalisator then there will be another one directly behind it. It will get very hot there with spirited riding after leaving break-in period.
I use a chrome polisch to minimise the blueing but I'm not dedicated to remove them, I quite like the grading. Apparantly the best product is Restom ABC4020, produced by Mathys Quality Equipment.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Rich Mintz on March 10, 2014, 09:43:36 pm
You get used to the shifting. People say "It gets better as the bike breaks in," but to be honest I'm not sure it really has for me, I've just gotten more deliberate and precise. It's not like a Japanese bike, where you always know exactly what will happen when you move your foot up or down.

The RE is a bike where you have to learn its quirks and then live with them. It was my first motorcycle so I think of that as normal, and then when I ride a more precise bike (such as, even, my 101cc SYM Symba, which is practically a scooter) I'm amazed at how different the experience is. But not better, just different.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: gremlin on March 10, 2014, 09:49:20 pm
........I have 127 miles on it so far, .........
The front brake squeals loudly.......
The header pipe is badly discolored near the 02 sensor. ......
The engine does not seem to get really hot,......
The shifting is very vague and a bit notchy ......

teething pains.
clean your brake with some spray.
the pipe will continue to blue well past the first bend.
the engine was designed to haul a family of nine around the Indian continent on sub-standard petrol.  It runs cool in North America.
shifting gets better with miles of burnishing the gears.

Your first oil change will be hilarious !
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: ROVERMAN on March 10, 2014, 09:57:12 pm
All true Gremlin. My pipe is getting a nice gold tinge (EFI, no baffles) and shifting is great. Not as good as my old RT1 Yamaha but few are. What i really like is the ratio spread coming from a 4spd grease box  ;D ;D ;D. The worse thing so far is having it down for 5 months whilst this stinking winter rolls on.
Robert & the GREen B.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Arizoni on March 10, 2014, 10:04:09 pm
I think the RE UCE's shifting does get better as the engine/transmission break in but it never lets you forget it's a RE.  That is, shifting has to be done with a firm full stroke of the shift lever.  It's not at all like the short click, click, click of going thru the gears on a Japanese motorcycle.

Likewise, the kick starter needs a full, all the way thru, stout stroke to get the engine started.  A little half assed partial stroke of the lever won't get the job done.

It's all part of owning a piece of history with close ties to its roots. :)
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Catbird on March 10, 2014, 10:40:57 pm
Regarding the Royal Enfield's shifting quirks, I decided to remove the stock shift lever and replace it with a heel/toe shift lever to improve the "in" and "out" of gear feel.  It may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I personally prefer it on my C5 Military.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Royal Stargazer on March 10, 2014, 11:15:39 pm
+x on the false neutrals. They get better over time. Haven't had one in the last few hundred miles on my bike.

The thing that worried me the most was when she straight up fell out of gear. Like I was cruising along in 4th, and all of the sudden - nope!

That first oil change is hilarious too. Get a load of all the gunk that comes out of it...
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 11, 2014, 01:00:48 am
I just found out these engines have a plastic oil pump gear. Anyone ever have one break? It was a broken plastic oil pump gear that destroyed the engine in my '96 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic. 
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Craig McClure on March 11, 2014, 01:50:20 am
If you mean that shifting must be a well thought action executed with painful accuresse you're right. That is one of the characteristics.
The coloration is another one. If you retain the oem muffler with catalisator then there will be another one directly behind it. It will get very hot there with spirited riding after leaving break-in period.
I use a chrome polisch to minimise the blueing but I'm not dedicated to remove them, I quite like the grading. Apparantly the best product is Restom ABC4020, produced by Mathys Quality Equipment.
I have been pleasantly surprised to find much less blueing than I'm traditionally accustomed to, with my Non-standard, Non-cat, tulip end Cocktail Shaker silencer.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: GSS on March 11, 2014, 02:17:12 am
I just found out these engines have a plastic oil pump gear. Anyone ever have one break? It was a broken plastic oil pump gear that destroyed the engine in my '96 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic.
So far I can't recall even one report of the oil pump breaking.

GSS
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Royal Stargazer on March 11, 2014, 02:19:20 am
So far I can't recall even one report of the oil pump breaking.

Heart was racing for a minute there...
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: gashousegorilla on March 11, 2014, 02:40:39 am


 I'm assuming it is a single wall pipe.

   Double wall head pipe.... actually a pipe within a pipe, with an expansion chamber between the two.


 
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Bulletman on March 11, 2014, 06:01:14 pm
Regarding the Royal Enfield's shifting quirks, I decided to remove the stock shift lever and replace it with a heel/toe shift lever to improve the "in" and "out" of gear feel.  It may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I personally prefer it on my C5 Military.
+1
The heel shifter works great for me on my C5 ....loved it since I've put it on....
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: barenekd on March 11, 2014, 08:31:45 pm
As for the engine getting hot, they don't. The oil temp generally will stay a bit too cool, AFAIC. The pipe bluing is normal around the head. It's a real motorcycle, fer crissake! If the bluing runs down the length of the pipe, you may have a problem!
At 127 miles, your bike hasn't even started to break in. It'll take a couple of thousand miles before it's really there. It just keeps getting better and better as the miles rack up. That doesn't mean you need to mollycoddle it. Just ride it without trying to break any speed Records. If you like to hot rod, just don't get too carried away. If you like to ride it like it's an RE, do it. You ain't gonna hurt it. The UCE engines are really very robust and reliable.
Enjoy it and don't fret about everything that it does.
If you haven't changed your spark plug yet, put an NGK BPR6ES in it. The stock plug isn't too great. Keep a close eye on the chain. When it starts needing adjusting every couple of hundred miles get rid of it and put a quality chain on it. DID, Tsubaki, etc.
Bare
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 12, 2014, 12:23:17 am
It now has 160 miles on it, and the chrome is actually starting to turn black around the oxygen sensor. Still confined to that location. Engine does not feel or smell hot, when you park it after a 20 mile ride, you can touch the top cover and both side covers without getting burned. I have another Japanese bike for freeway riding. I bought the Bullet for backroad riding. I just love the sound and feel.

Can the chain be replaced with an o-ring type, or is there not enough clearance? I did run into that problem once with another bike.

As for the heel and toe shifter, I had one on a Goldwing, and never did get used to it. I finally replaced it with the stock shifter. Some get along with them just fine, some don't. But thanks for the suggestion.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: heloego on March 12, 2014, 03:17:25 pm
Yes the chain can be R&R'd with an O-Ring chain. Nfield Gear sells a Tsubaki that's a clean change out. I R&R'd mine almost immediately, though others waited until their OEM chains were needing it.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: mattsz on March 12, 2014, 03:55:06 pm
But the chain I got needed a larger drive sprocket... or so I was told.  And I always believe everything I read on the interweb...
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: ruufman58 on March 12, 2014, 05:54:52 pm
I am curious about the heel to shifter.I have a problem with my left foot which makes it difficult to pull the shift lever up.I have to move my entire leg to do it.A previous bike had a heel and toe shifter which made life easier.Was it an RE item or off another bike?

150 mies so far in Ct since January.Trying to break in before the good weather gets here.

Took a quick blast to 70 MPH yesterday held it for 3 seconds and backed off to 50.No increase in vibration at all.

6'-2" 250 lbs :

Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: gremlin on March 13, 2014, 03:10:09 am
............. I always believe everything I read on the interweb...

send me all your money, and I'll take all cares away .......
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 13, 2014, 03:49:05 am
I went back to the dealer today, picked up the owners manual and box of spares. Also picked up a couple of oil filters. Bike still running great, but I did have a couple more issues. I filled up the gas tank for the first time, and when I opened the filler cap I found the paint was peeling around the edges. Some of it fell down inside the tank. I'm hoping there is a filter in the tank to prevent debris from getting into the FI system. I also had a turn signal bulb burn out. I tried an 1156 bulb in it, like my Japanese bike uses, it fit in the socket, but would not come on. It was also much larger than the oem bulb, and the lens would not fit. Are the oem bulbs something I can get at the local auto parts store, or are they some weird size?
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: singhg5 on March 13, 2014, 05:20:38 am
. I also had a turn signal bulb burn out. I tried an 1156 bulb in it, like my Japanese bike uses, it fit in the socket, but would not come on. It was also much larger than the oem bulb, and the lens would not fit. Are the oem bulbs something I can get at the local auto parts store, or are they some weird size?


Do you have a picture of your OEM bulb, does it look like the one below ?

The turn signal bulb in my G5 was Philips bulb that corresponds to Osram 5008 12V 10W BA15S - a single contact bayonet base.  I got it from a BMW motorcycle dealer. Details in this link -

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php?topic=7413.0

Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 13, 2014, 05:46:41 am
Yep, that's it. But it looks like I messed up. Turns out it is not the bulb. The 1156 bulb fit perfectly in the socket, so I wondered why it wouldn't light. So I removed the bulb from the turn signal on the other side and tried it, it didn't work either. So I have a loose connection somewhere, and am not getting voltage to the socket. Have to get out the multimeter and track it down. Front signal still flashes, just a lot faster than normal.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: barenekd on March 13, 2014, 07:54:56 pm
If you have a C5 with an 18T sprocket, the oring chain will fit right in. Unfortunately, the G5 and B5 come with 17T sprockets because of the 19" rear wheel. An Oring chain will not clear the trannie output shaft bearing housing. You need to upgrade to an 18T sprocket.
Pros; you get a chain that will last a long time. You won't have to worry even about adjusting it for several thousand miles. Your vibration peaks move up the mph scale and smooth out the normal cruising speeds. Your RPM will drop from your current cruising to a lower cruising RPM.
Cons; You have to replace the sprocket, you need a big socket for this. Not to mention having to pull the side cover and losing the oil. Your top speed will not improve. Your mileage will not improve. You acceleration will decrease a bit, still adequate, though.
Is it worth it? I think so! Worked for me.
Bare
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 13, 2014, 09:15:13 pm
Thanks for the chain info. I'll put some thought into it while I wear out the oem chain. The increased possibility of lugging the engine is what bothers me a bit.

I found the turn signal problem, and it was not something I expected. I unplugged the connector behind the right side black box, where it connects to the harness from the tail/brake/turn signal harness. I found I did not have continuity on the hot wire that goes to the right rear turn signal. I traced the wire where it is clamped along the underside of the back fender, and up close to the front, I found the tire had rubbed against it, worn through the plastic sheath, broken the turn signal wire, and damaged a couple of other wires. This may have been caused by excessive rear suspension sag, or it could have been just loose wiring rubbing on the tire. I am going to modify the harness to make it longer, and reroute it under the seat, away from the tire.

The rear shocks appear to be adjustable for preload, but there was no adjuster tool in the tool kit, and no reference to it in the owners manual. I have a huge box of oem tools from Japanese bikes, hopefully one of them will fit.


In looking at the rear part of the frame, it does not look very strong. I weigh 230, and the manual says the load capacity is 398, so I should be ok.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: gremlin on March 14, 2014, 12:25:59 pm
............I filled up the gas tank for the first time, and when I opened the filler cap I found the paint was peeling around the edges. Some of it fell down inside the tank. I'm hoping there is a filter in the tank to prevent debris from getting into the FI system. .......

Yep ....  guess what comes next ?  the paint continues to soften until it starts to affect the topmost horizontal surface where the rubber seals the cap.  Then the paint starts delaminating, and, you begin to notice fuel leaking out onto your tank.

conventional wisdom is - don't fill the tank completely full.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: barenekd on March 14, 2014, 03:53:15 pm
Quote
The rear shocks appear to be adjustable for preload, but there was no adjuster tool in the tool kit, and no reference to it in the owners manual. I have a huge box of oem tools from Japanese bikes, hopefully one of them will fit.

A pair of water pump pliers (Slip joint, to you moderns) will easily turn the shock adjusting ring. Might want to put a rag under them to keep from scratching. A hook type spanner is available from Cycle Gear.
Bare
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 14, 2014, 11:39:38 pm
I got lucky and found a shock adjuster that was a perfect fit in my box of Japanese tools, and set the rear shocks at max preload. Hopefully that will be enough.

I got the wiring harness repaired and rerouted it under the seat. I ran it out the top left corner of the tail light housing, and under the seat. The only place it is visible is about 3" between the seat and tail light housing. With the paint being dark green, it is barely visible.

Got my nfield gear catalog in the mail today. Have a feeling this bike is going to become a major money pit.

Also got my license plate yesterday. Had to drill new holes in the backing plate to install it. AZ plates are tiny compared to that huge tail light housing/plate mount. I think I'm going to paint the backing plate yellow to give it a more European look, as their plates seem to be yellow. I've already decided to get the plate that mounts on the front fender.

I've already ran into an insurance issue. Turns out full coverage was going to cost $460+ a year, while minimum liability is only $93 a year. And that is on a low performance bike now probably worth around $3500, and with a $1000 deductible. I could insure a GSX-R 1000 for that. I immediately canceled the comp and collision when I found out. And this is a company I have been insured with for over 20 years, have 5 bikes insured with them, I am 55, with a perfect record and have been a licensed rider since age 16.  I have it financed with Sheffield, and if they complain, I'll just pay it off. Anyone planning on financing a RE might want to check the insurance rates first. If you don't have the ability to pay off the loan, you could get stuck paying outrageous insurance rates.

I think I will try and hit 300 miles tomorrow, and do an oil change. Oil still looks clean, and I've been watching everything else as well.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Craig McClure on March 15, 2014, 03:07:11 am


I've already ran into an insurance issue. Turns out full coverage was going to cost $460+ a year, while minimum liability is only $93 a year. And that is on a low performance bike now probably worth around $3500, and with a $1000 deductible. I could insure a GSX-R 1000 for that. I immediately canceled the comp and collision when I found out. And this is a company I have been insured with for over 20 years, have 5 bikes insured with them, I am 55, with a perfect record and have been a licensed rider since age 16.  I have it financed with Sheffield, and if they complain, I'll just pay it off. Anyone planning on financing a RE might want to check the insurance rates first. If you don't have the ability to pay off the loan, you could get stuck paying outrageous insurance rates.



CHECK OUT MARKEL INSURANCE.  I have full coverage + road service, on my G5 Deluxe for only  $168. a year. I am pleased with them. Cheers!
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 15, 2014, 03:44:43 am
Dairyland/Sentry has always given me great rates. I don't know what happened here. I had a Goldwing 1500 insured minimum liability only for less than $100 a year. I had a brand new '09 Ninja 500 insured liability only for less than that, and it's a sport bike. I think it has something to do with an Enfield being such an oddball bike. Dairyland puts up to 3 bikes on one policy. They put the Enfield on the same policy as my Vulcan 750 and XT225, in place of the Suzuki GS500 I sold before I bought it. They wanted almost 5 times as much for full coverage as they did for minimum liability. By paying the loan off now, I'll save $2000 in insurance and interest.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Arizoni on March 15, 2014, 09:33:36 pm
After 25 years with Dairyland without a claim they basically screwed me out of my BMW K-75 when I had a small crash.  They refused to pay me the market value of the bike and instead sent photos of the crashed bike to the local BMW dealer.  He gave them the wholesale value not the retail value and they wouldn't budge from his quote.

Currently I have Progressive.  I'm not entirely happy with what they did with the cost though.
The first year they wanted $200/year for a $100k/$300k policy.  The second year they dropped the price to $150/year for the same coverage saying my no claims saved me some money.
The third year, they jacked up the price to $280/year.  No explanation for the increase and I still hadn't made any claims against the policy. 
We'll see what they try to do this year. :(
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: gremlin on March 16, 2014, 04:10:38 pm
$134.30/yr  Geico  300K/100K  $100 deductible collision & comp.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: GreenMachine on March 16, 2014, 08:40:51 pm
I have progressive on 3 bikes and its real pretty cheap..I suspect I just have collision as nothing newer than 2006..
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: mattsz on March 16, 2014, 11:47:04 pm
...when I opened the filler cap I found the paint was peeling around the edges. Some of it fell down inside the tank. I'm hoping there is a filter in the tank to prevent debris from getting into the FI system.

This must be an ongoing issue if your new bike has it.  When I first looked at RE's in the winter of 2011-2012, all the bikes on the dealer floor had this problem.  So far, I haven't had trouble with it on my 2011.

The fuel pump has a very fine mesh filter - it would take some pretty small paint chips to get through, but you also don't want any more gunk clogging it up than "necessary"...
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: barenekd on March 17, 2014, 12:32:40 am
Quote
Currently I have Progressive.  I'm not entirely happy with what they did with the cost though.
The first year they wanted $200/year for a $100k/$300k policy.  The second year they dropped the price to $150/year for the same coverage saying my no claims saved me some money.
The third year, they jacked up the price to $280/year.  No explanation for the increase and I still hadn't made any claims against the policy. 

With all The trials and tribulations I went through with them last year with my wreck, there's no way I'd go back to them ever!
My rates were about the same as yours, $188 initially, then $150 the last year. I got a quote from them for the Guzzi and that one went up to $320. I finally get it covered by Farmers for $188.
Progressive can keep their ultra liberal crap.
Bare
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: gremlin on March 19, 2014, 03:16:19 pm
................ I have Progressive.  I'm not entirely happy with what they did with the cost though.
The first year they wanted $200/year for a $100k/$300k policy.  The second year they dropped the price to $150/year for the same coverage saying my no claims saved me some money.
The third year, they jacked up the price to $280/year.  No explanation for the increase and I still hadn't made any claims against the policy. 
...............

that would be the year Bare totalled his G5+ ......  their loss-experience calculators must not adequately account for small populations when doing statistical analysis......    That is likely why their rates are unstable.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: GreenMachine on March 19, 2014, 04:13:29 pm
Progressive - 100k individual/300k liability each accident

Enfield - 45
Hyosung - 81
Yamaha - 110
 Total Cost: 217 a year for 2 riders on the plan
 
Note :  Hyo and Yamaha has additional collision coverage with a 250 deductible.
Royal Enfield has no  collision and apparently not covered when insurance was purchased/Maybe that has changed by now?  .
No Medical coverage under any bikes ( My thinking at the time was to opt out as both riders have decent medical and Life Insurance coverage)

I've never had a claim and hope not too..GM
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: caricabasso on March 19, 2014, 09:51:16 pm
I went back to the dealer today, picked up the owners manual and box of spares. Also picked up a couple of oil filters. Bike still running great, but I did have a couple more issues. I filled up the gas tank for the first time, and when I opened the filler cap I found the paint was peeling around the edges. Some of it fell down inside the tank. I'm hoping there is a filter in the tank to prevent debris from getting into the FI system. I also had a turn signal bulb burn out. I tried an 1156 bulb in it, like my Japanese bike uses, it fit in the socket, but would not come on. It was also much larger than the oem bulb, and the lens would not fit. Are the oem bulbs something I can get at the local auto parts store, or are they some weird size?

Here it is the filter of gasoline together with the pump body.
It 'very large and has great filtering capacity.

(http://s17.postimg.org/hn5qhqv73/FILTRO.jpg)
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on March 20, 2014, 10:53:46 pm
First oil change time. I'll be doing it on Saturday. Allowing myself plenty of time for the first one, till I see how it goes. I'm going to change it at 300, 600, 1000, and then follow the schedule in the manual. Hopefully all the metal pieces should be gone by 1000 miles. 

Also still having a loud squeal from front brake. I think it either become glazed, or something got on the disc, and contaminated the pads. Going to clean the disc with brake cleaner, also remove pads, sand them a bit, and use brake cleaner on them as well.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on April 01, 2014, 09:31:27 pm
Totally broken in (by the book) 722 miles. Decided to wait till 1000 miles to do the next oil change. No problems so far other than the tire chewing up the tail/brake/turn signal wires.

(http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u415/suitcasejefferson13/RoyalEnfield004_zps1afda869.jpg) (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/suitcasejefferson13/media/RoyalEnfield004_zps1afda869.jpg.html)


(http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u415/suitcasejefferson13/RoyalEnfield005_zps6c6feceb.jpg) (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/suitcasejefferson13/media/RoyalEnfield005_zps6c6feceb.jpg.html)


(http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u415/suitcasejefferson13/RoyalEnfield006_zps5985a739.jpg) (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/suitcasejefferson13/media/RoyalEnfield006_zps5985a739.jpg.html)
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: mattsz on April 01, 2014, 11:46:54 pm
suitcase - so it looks like you've settled on a bag to buckle to your seat?  What is it, and how does it work?
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: suitcasejefferson on April 02, 2014, 05:48:57 am
suitcase - so it looks like you've settled on a bag to buckle to your seat?  What is it, and how does it work?

Actually not yet. That is the top part of a fairly inexpensive t-bag setup I got for my Vulcan 750, from JC Whitney. I wasn't using it much because it does not fit well on top of the other part of the bag. I had it in the closet, and decided to try it. Can't put anything heavy in it the way it is, because it is only attached with 2 mini bungee cords. I may wind up going with a set of textile saddlebags. I want something removable. The leather bags from RE look good, they just don't look like something you would usually see on a vintage British bike. The lower frame rail looks like a perfect place to tie such bags to, and keep them out of the rear wheel. I mostly need a place to carry a few tools and stuff to fix flat tires, and once in a while a few other things. I don't plan on taking any trips on it long enough to require packing a lot of stuff.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread/ HEEL TOE SHIFTER
Post by: rtillery02 on July 13, 2014, 04:51:52 pm
I've been searchin everywhere for a heel/toe shift lever for my 2012 C5, what part # did you find to fit that application? Did Hitchcocks or NField provide it for you?
  Thank You for any leads on one of those, R.Tillery
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: retrolynn on July 13, 2014, 08:55:42 pm
Suitcase:My bike looks like yours,same color but with the california gas cap.Got 452 miles on it,with no problems so far. 81.7 mpg ,on last tank.My bike has the#1 windshield and wilie and max bags,which I like.The exaust pipe on mine is just a bit yellow,where it connects to the engine.Still keeping mine below 50mph,and will do the second oil change at 500 miles,with mobile1 v twin oil.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: lemming on July 14, 2014, 05:17:13 pm
Hey suitcase,

On the shifting, have you checked your clutch cable? Mine was all stretched out and had too much play, was having all sorts of false neutrals and shifting problems. Tightened up the slack, now it shifts beautifully.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Subbu-500 on July 14, 2014, 06:57:17 pm
Ok guys, i had the first oil change done today at my dealer's service center. The Odo reading stood at a touch over 300 miles. First of all let me tell you that these so called service centers are a joke. Not one mechanic is knowledgeable :(...i guess the only thing they know to do is an oil/filter change. I had a few things i was hoping to get fixed but none were done to my satisfaction...i guess one needs to just admit the various misalignments on a RE as FATE and live them...anyway, he just removed one (main) drain nut/plug to drain the oil and tilted the bike both ways to get as much oil as he could..i am not sure if that was the right way. The oil filter was changed and the oil stainer filter? just got a high pressure blow of air and went back in its place. I did not find any nasty looking metal filings on the filter...don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing...some pics i took
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Bulletman on July 14, 2014, 07:19:46 pm
Subbu-500,
I did my first oil change myself at 600 miles and everything looked the same as in your attached pics.
I had no metal shavings on the mesh filter from under the bike and the oil was as dark colored as yours. So it seems like you're doing fine... :D
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Subbu-500 on July 14, 2014, 07:31:48 pm
isn't 600 miles a bit too late for the 1st oil/filter change? or is that the prescribed interval for EFI engines? And i want to know if removing that main drain plug was enough to get rid of all the old oil...Arizoni had mentioned on another thread that there are three such drain nuts/plugs on the underside of the engine...
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: barenekd on July 14, 2014, 09:23:38 pm
There are three drains under the engine, one near the rear of the case which is the oil reservoir, one with two bolts at the forward, right side of the flat bottom part. This has a screen in it that need to be cleaned that is for the return oil pump, and another plug under the crankshaft that drains the crankcase. Then the regular filter cap on the upper side of the right crankcase, three bolts usually. I think C5s only have two. Be careful with the small bolts. They can be broken with overtorquing.
Bare
Bare 
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Subbu-500 on July 14, 2014, 09:40:57 pm
Thank you Barenekd. As the guy did not remove/loosen the crank case plug, how harmful is it? I would assume there is no point in taking it back to them now as any residual oil would have mixed with the fresh oil.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: mattsz on July 14, 2014, 10:18:47 pm
Did all the 2013's get the second drain plug?

Subbu, if you do have two plugs, and the mechanic removed the plug furthest back, just in front of the center-stand hinge, then I'd say you're probably just fine, since many of us only have that one drain plug anyway.  Just a guess...

In your oil-draining pic, it sure looks like that oil is streaming from the opening that holds the screen.  And if the drain pan hasn't been moved, the oil runs on the side of the pan look like they're where the rear plug would be.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Subbu-500 on July 14, 2014, 10:57:37 pm
Thank you Mattsz :)
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Arizoni on July 15, 2014, 02:19:17 am
I agree with Mattsz.
Getting the oil out of the crankcase with the forward drain plug is nice but not absolutely necessary.  Most of us don't even have that drain plug and our RE's are doing fine.

The mechanic did remove the oil filter and the oil pump inlet screen and these are the most important things at this oil change.

As for the mechanics knowledge, people reading this post need to know that Subbu-500 lives in India and he is talking about the mechanics there.

Ya.  I know.  We have some similar poor mechanics here in the USA but in fairness to the motorcycle mechanics in our country I think it's important to make the distinction.
Title: Re: 2013 B5 thread
Post by: Subbu-500 on July 17, 2014, 09:03:12 pm
Absolutely Arizoni. I am sorry i should have made that clear on my post. Well i must admit that there are a lot of really good mechanics here too but they  all operate independently and usually from the old school to whom the iron barrel was the true bullet and the UCE is not a RE at all. However, they are still far better than the ones at RE authorized service stations. No college, no degree in mechanical engineering...everything learnt the hard way over decades of hands on experience passed on from one generation to the next... :) the problem is, i cant go to them until the one year manufacturer warranty applies..