[tmiron]

My bike came to me with a broken clutch lever. When I installed a replacement, I didn’t have enough slack (even with both barrel adjusters slacked off) so I adjusted it down at the clutch adjustment screw by the neutral return lever. I followed the manual’s procedure. To test it, I pulled it the lever and shifted to first. Now it won’t shift back.

After trying to readjust the clutch screw several times, I believe it is correct. However, I can’t get her back in neutral. Any ideas?

[mrunderhill1975a]

Which gearbox, 4speed, 5speed, left foot or right foot? Does it have a neutral finder?

[tmiron]

4 speed left shift with neutral finder. 2001 500cc bullet

[mrunderhill1975a]

It is very possible that the Rube Goldberg shift linkage is worn and wobbly.  Look under the left foot peg area and see if the linkage is hanging up on one of the bolts or shafts.  There is a banana shaped link in the assembly which can wear the plastic bushings and make the whole assembly wobble and catch on many protrusions.

One test you could try is to put bike on center stand with rear wheel off the ground, and then use the neutral finder to pull up and run through the gears.  If you can get it to shift by pulling up and down on the neutral finder lever, the problem is likely somewhere in the left foot shift assembly.

[tmiron]

It’s not shifting with the neutral finder (and rear wheel off the ground) so my thought is that the clutch is not adjusted correctly. However, I’ve read that the bike needs to be moving to shift. Is this true?

I should be able to shift back to neutral when stationary, correct?

[Paul W]

It’s not shifting with the neutral finder (and rear wheel off the ground) so my thought is that the clutch is not adjusted correctly. However, I’ve read that the bike needs to be moving to shift. Is this true?

I should be able to shift back to neutral when stationary, correct?

The neutral finder will only work (by tapping it downwards) if you're in second or above.

[tmiron]

I’ve never risen a bullet, so I don’t know for sure but I saw a video where a guy was able to pull the clutch and pull up on the neutral finder to get her into first gear.

Regardless, looks like my clutch isn’t working. I took the cover off on the right hand side behind the neutral return lever and Kickstarter. The rod that the clutch adjustment screw presses on would not go in at all. I could slide it out, but not in. Shouldn’t there be a small amount of play on that to engage the clutch? Is there a spring inside that could be broken?

[ddavidv]

Welcome to my hell, LOL.

No springs. The rods just go through to the clutch side and push against the 'pressure plate' #14. Sounds like you need to go into the primary side.

[tmiron]

Before I dive into the primary side... theoretically, if I turn the clutch adjuster screw all the way in, it should act just like the lever and engage the clutch? Right?

So if I turn that screw all the way in and I still can’t shift to neutral, there is something wrong with the primary side. Sound reasoning?

[mrunderhill1975a]

I should be able to shift back to neutral when stationary, correct?

No, you may get lucky once in a great while but most times the rear wheel should be turning to get the gears to mesh when performing this test.

Before I dive into the primary side... theoretically, if I turn the clutch adjuster screw all the way in, it should act just like the lever and engage the clutch? Right?

So if I turn that screw all the way in and I still can’t shift to neutral, there is something wrong with the primary side. Sound reasoning?

The screw all the way in would act like the lever and engage the clutch, provided the rod and ball bearing in the clutch rod are still in place. A collapsed ball bearing or mushroomed rod could cause similar effects.  But first, try spinning the rear wheel while pulling up on the neutral finder vigorously and see if it will shift. This should work even if the clutch is engaged. If not, you may have to look deeper.

There should be one or two ball bearings between parts 18 and 19 of the diagram, one other ball should be at the other end of 19 where the adjuster screw pushes on part 19.  If one or both of these missing, you may not have enough total length of the rod assembly to push on the clutch plates.

[Paul W]

Before I dive into the primary side... theoretically, if I turn the clutch adjuster screw all the way in, it should act just like the lever and engage the clutch? Right?

So if I turn that screw all the way in and I still can’t shift to neutral, there is something wrong with the primary side. Sound reasoning?

No, the clutch engages automatically under the pressure of the six pressure springs. Operating the clutch release mechanism disengages (i.e. releases) the clutch.

[mrunderhill1975a]

No, the clutch engages automatically under the pressure of the six pressure springs. Operating the clutch release mechanism disengages (i.e. releases) the clutch.

You are correct, Paul, operating the clutch release disengages the clutch. Unscrewing the adjustment screw engages the clutch.  Never the less, the rear wheel should be rotating when attempting to use the neutral finder to change gears or find a neutral. If there is some component of the clutch release assembly missing, the clutch would not release properly.

[tmiron]

Ok, so I think I’m back in neutral, however the back wheel still spins when using the kick start. Even with the clutch pulled in and no resistance from the engine. Is this normal?

[ace.cafe]

Ok, so I think I’m back in neutral, however the back wheel still spins when using the kick start. Even with the clutch pulled in and no resistance from the engine. Is this normal?

Yes, there is always some clutch drag because it is partially submerged in oil.

[Royal Stargazer]

I've had this dumb question rattling around in my brain looking for cell phone signal for awhile, and I think this is the embarrassing time to ask it: the rod that goes through the clutch hub (19 on the digram) terminates on the primary side with 18 on the diagram, and on the gearbox side with the clutch adjusting screw behind that trap door on the outer gearbox cover - correct?

I have reason to believe the bearing between 18 and 19 on the diagram friction welded itself to the rod before I could get in there with a ceramic ball bearing, currently rolling around the bottom of a toolbox. I'm trying to figure out the best way to extract the rod so I can be sure.