Author Topic: Shifter sticking in up position after shifting to 2nd gear  (Read 2707 times)

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TheRealBullet500

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Anyone know what can cause the shifter to stick? I shift from 1st to 2nd and the shifter remains in the up position. I have to push it down a bit to make it level again, and then I can shift to 3rd. I believe it does this again for each higher gear.
Seems to have happened right after using the neutral finder, which I never use.


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #1 on: July 31, 2019, 05:38:20 pm
Do you have the right foot conversion shifter, or the USA left foot shifter?


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #2 on: August 01, 2019, 02:54:44 am
USA, shifter is on the left. I am thinking there might be a spring tha is inside the case, and it came off the shifter linkage?


tooseevee

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Reply #3 on: August 01, 2019, 12:03:54 pm
USA, shifter is on the left. I am thinking there might be a spring tha is inside the case, and it came off the shifter linkage?

     I don't believe there is any spring involved in returning the shifter lever to its neutral position after a shift either in the primary case or in the transmission. It's all mechanical. The only springs involved are the pressure plate springs in the clutch pack.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #4 on: August 01, 2019, 01:47:54 pm
Hmm. So maybe something with the linkage of the parts and there is some friction when the shifter is in the up position making it stick there?


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #5 on: August 01, 2019, 04:57:58 pm
If this is a 4-speed transmission, there is a spring on the left foot lever assembly (part 37)  that could be broken.  Also, inside the trans cover there are two "figure-8" shaped spring in the ratchet mechanism (part 2 & 5) that could be broken. The larger "figure 8" applies force on the shift lever and return.   See the diagram below.


tooseevee

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Reply #6 on: August 01, 2019, 05:18:02 pm
If this is a 4-speed transmission, there is a spring on the left foot lever assembly (part 37)  that could be broken.  Also, inside the trans cover there are two "figure-8" shaped spring in the ratchet mechanism (part 2 & 5) that could be broken. The larger "figure 8" applies force on the shift lever and return.   See the diagram below.
        Ah! So sorry. There IS a detent spring ??? ??? :-[

         I've only had the primary cover off my '08 AVL once and paid no attention. It shifts perfectly so I've never even looked close at the exploded views. I'm gonna do that now so I don't feel like an idiot again.
« Last Edit: August 01, 2019, 05:21:05 pm by tooseevee »
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #7 on: August 02, 2019, 09:45:28 am
Thanks. So I guess the cover needs to come off to determine if the spring is broken. Thanks again and for the exploded views


Bilgemaster

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Reply #8 on: August 02, 2019, 11:09:09 am
If your gearbox is running 90 weight gear oil (some older ones just have grease in there), drain the stuff into a clean container, strain it into a jar through a coffee filter or paper towel, toss a small brush into the jar, and you can later use it to lube your drive chain. A quick slop of the brush over the easy-to-reach lower run of the chain after every ride with a an old cookie sheet or something underneath to catch any drippage, and your chain and sprockets will thank you with far extended service lifespans.

When it's time to refill the gearbox, you might be well advised to find some straight GL-4 rated gear oil. Avoid anything that even mentions "GL-5", since some anti-impact additives used in some formulations of those "GL-2 through GL-5" types can be very harmful to brass or copper bits. If you have trouble finding straight GL-4 in the Automotive section, try the Boating one, as it's often used for outboards and outdrives.

Happy Hunting!
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