[ddavidv]

I've disabled the electrics for the starter as a sprag safety measure. I found a battery box and cover for $60 used. Debating which way I want to go. I like the idea of having the tool box for storage but OTOH having that big case hanging on the side (and nothing on the opposite side) isn't terribly appealing. First world problems.

I have four gallons of vinegar in my garage waiting to see the inside of the fuel tank. Can I just leave the petcock in place or should I remove it and plug the fitting somehow?

[Adrian II]

A 1/4" BSP (gas thread) plug should be cheap enough.

Ref the empty space opposite the battery box, one of those oval repro 50's Bullet air filter boxes would look the part, Hitchcocks' have them, though ebay has (varying quality) examples for sale from India.

A.

[Bilgemaster]

The monsoons having ceased, here at last are those promised shots of the more-or-less stock electrical rat's nest under the saddle and also the mystery jumble within in the left hand sidecover for your ready reference. Hope this helps!

[Bilgemaster]

Here's that sidebox one...

Lemme know if you need any special view, or I could break out the Harbor Freight Inspection Camera and get all "proctological" up in there with the world's dullest YouTube video.

[ddavidv]

Well that answered some questions. I'm missing the metal tab things that hold the relays just in front of the finned aluminum whatchamacallits under the seat.

My starter solenoid looks nothing like yours. It also has a rubber boot thing that looks like it would slide over a tab. I've removed it for now as I don't plan on using the ES.

I also don't have the canooter valve in the tool box. There is a badly made hole in about the same position where the PO installed a push button for the starter.

[Bilgemaster]

If you plan on digging around in the primary again and removing the clutch basket, rotor, stator, drive sprocket and chain, then you might do well to remove the whole gear cluster containing the starter clutch sprag. For some reason that passeth all understanding, they only made the sprag nonsense accessible by removal of three Allen screws from within the primary with all its guts removed. My starter sprag clutch gave up the ghost recently, albeit blessedly gently and with minimal shrapnel or mayhem, even though I rarely used it, and hadn't used the starter in weeks when it went. That sprag just shit the bed all on its own, as described in this thread.

[ddavidv]

A smart guy would have thought ahead and done that. But a smart guy didn't buy this bike, LOL. I guess my 'thinking' was I'd keep everything intact in case I wanted to wire the starter back in for a 'just in case it's needed' situation though I have no idea why that would ever be necessary. Well, whatever. It's back together now. I'll wait until some new reason to go in there to mess with it.

Four gallons of vinegar fermenting in the fuel tank currently. I shone my little light inside and was appalled at how much brown scale there was everywhere.

[tooseevee]

Edit:  I found this photo from an older post showing a battery mounted in the left tool box. I'm becoming more okay with this idea if I can figure out a way to secure the battery in there.

       I used closed cell foam both in back of and in front of the battery to secure mine very tightly when the cover is closed and locked. The cover squeezes the battery in there nicely when the cover is closed. I was also very fussy with the terminals to make sure they could never touch the cover when closed.

[ddavidv]

Seats: anyone have experience with the unsprung solo seat from Hitchcock's 91475? I like the look of it vs the sprung models. If I went sprung I'd choose the 'classic' saddle 91415.
Maybe this should be a separate post to generate more responses?

[ace.cafe]

I used an unsprung seat for years. It wasn't a Hitchcocks seat, but I would expect that it was similar comfort.

Never felt uncomfortable on it.

[Bilgemaster]

Getting back to that starter sprag clutch, whatever lube you're using in the primary (on advice from these Forums I use Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid, though the manual calls for 10W40), you might do well to add another 400 or so ml, or about a cup and a half, above that 420 ml level of the fluid level screw to better bathe that sprag gear. It seems there was some factory service advisory that went out some years back to that effect. It didn't save mine, which went tits up at about 9,000 miles, though very rarely used, but might help forestall the inevitable crunch with yours... especially if you NEVER use it.

[ddavidv]

Yeah, so about the final drive oil...I've heard "Type F" but Snidal seems to think in a five speed model it should be 20W or 20W-50 if straight isn't available.

[ace.cafe]

Getting back to that starter sprag clutch, whatever lube you're using in the primary (on advice from these Forums I use Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid, though the manual calls for 10W40), you might do well to add another 400 or so ml, or about a cup and a half, above that 420 ml level of the fluid level screw to better bathe that sprag gear. It seems there was some factory service advisory that went out some years back to that effect. It didn't save mine, which went tits up at about 9,000 miles, though very rarely used, but might help forestall the inevitable crunch with yours... especially if you NEVER use it.

Actually, you could use Dexron/Mercon ATF or similar if the main reason is to lube the spray clutch. The sprag is a part repurposed from a GM automatic transmission torque converter.

The Type F ATF is to help stop clutch slippage if it slips with the regular ATF.

Technically, the factory calls for engine oil, but the ATF is better for certain, things, and it is easy to differentiate a primary fluid leak from an engine oil leak, by the color.

Use what you prefer. Those are the basics about the choices  available.

Yeah, so about the final drive oil...I've heard "Type F" but Snidal seems to think in a five speed model it should be 20W or 20W-50 if straight isn't available.

Use standard low sulfur or no sulfur(preferable) gear oil in the gearbox. 85/90w is fine.

[ddavidv]

I want to check with the collective before I hack this thing up into a pair of turn signal brackets...this is not a Bullet part is it? This came with my bike but was attached to one of the K-Mart solo seats that I'm not using. I don't want to chop it into bits if it is actually for something on a Bullet.

[ace.cafe]

It looks like the factory airbox bracket.