[Hog Head]

Super Meteor 650 belt drive kit is finished in two final drive ratios, and I am trying to get feedback on what gear ratios are preferred - stock or the 38T rear/16T front mod.

My thoughts on SM 650 gearing:
Gearing is a bit confusing with a larger number being "lower" geared – IE the SM 650 stock sprocket ratio at 2.6:1 is lower than the Interceptor stock ratio at 2.5:1

A lower gear ratio (2.6) will accelerate quicker, but top speed will be lower. At highway speeds the engine will be spinning at a higher RPM, and depending how fast you are riding, you may not want to work the engine that hard for very long.

A higher gear ratio (2.5) will accelerate slower, but (theoretical) top speed will be higher IF you have sufficient HP to pull the gearing.  Top speed on a SM is usually not a consideration, however some riders, myself included, would prefer lower engine speed on the highway. When higher geared, cruising speed rpm will be lower, and in the meat of the TQ band.
While not an engineering law by any means, and there are a lot of variables, (with notable exceptions like the new Ducati single); a rule of thumb for long engine life, is that you want to keep long term RPM under a piston speed of 2500 Ft/min – not to say that you cannot spin it up to redline; just do not hold it there while cruising if you intend to achieve long life.
2500 ft/min on a RE 650 = 5619 rpm

Noteworthy that the SM does not have a tach. Using the SM stock gearing, 120-140 kph calculates to 5170 - 6050 rpm, not accounting for the bike weight, your weight, rolling resistance, or drag from panniers and a windscreen - measured rpm will be higher than this calculated engine speed. 5170-6050 rpm is past the engine torque peak of 5150, and pushing the long term piston speed into the rule of thumb range for a shortened life span.
Carrol Shelby famously said “horsepower sells cars, and torque wins races”. RE Street riding is mainly in the engine torque band, I try to match gearing to my riding style. Having a cruising rpm in 6th in the meat of the torque band, and not flogging the engine, works best for me.

The Enfield 650 engine has modest torque and horsepower, so gearing becomes a compromise between acceptable performance, the ability to pull a higher gear, with ones tolerance for wringing its neck to keep up with motorway speeds in some countries.
Horses for courses depending on your riding style and location.

Which ratio do you prefer?

[Morgan65]

Like I have said before the Super Meteor 650 gearing is spot on. So as of now is what I want, because I intend to be doing a lot of two up riding with full luggage traveling secondary roads mostly 45-65 mph, with the occasional 75-80 mph spurt. 

Is the front pulley going to be made of steel or aluminum?
What do you think the estimated price will be for the kit?

[Hog Head]

Front pulley is 4140 steel, post machining hardened for spline and tooth wear, then zinc plated for corrosion protection. 

The rear pulley is machined from a billet of 6061-T6 aluminium, and Type 3 hard anodized for wear - colour is black.  Unlike Type 2 anodizing which is little more than metal dye, this results in a surface treatment that at Rockwell C58 is harder than 7075-T6 aluminium, and in the same range of nitrided steel.

Belt is a Gates Poly Chain Carbon GT

Price will be a bit more than the current Interceptor price due to the same old material price increase excuse you hear every day now...........Belt prices went up 20% in 5 months.  https://rstech.my-online.store/product/royal-enfield-650-belt-drive

[Hog Head]

Pics of the belt drive in as machined condition, prior to surface finishing. 
Now awaiting heat treating for spline durability and tooth wear on the steel front pulley, and Type 3 hard anodizing on the rear pulley.
About 5 weeks from shipping

[Hog Head]

SM belt drive video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrDxRp6YP_s

[Morgan65]

Do you have to remove the swing arm to install the belt?

[Hog Head]

Do you have to remove the swing arm to install the belt?

Yes, as the belt is an endless loop, there is no other way.  In fact the stock chain is an endless loop as well, and would need to be cut off or broken at chain time.  With the exception of pulling the swingarm, the work is the same as replacing the chain and sprockets. Unlike a big Bagger, the swingarm is easy and simply involves pulling the pin and it drops right out - about an additional 10 min to the job.  The biggest part of the job is to re&re the wheel. It takes me, at 70, about 2 hours to do the job - maybe a bit longer for someone doing it the first time. Part of that time is changing the wheel bearings, and cleaning up the oily chain mess. 

[CINATAS]

I'd be interested.  My last bike was shaft drive, and wile I like the SM just fine, I'd prefer a lower maintenance solution.
I've not yet reached the first service interval, so for the time, stock gearing is OK.  After i get it run in a bit i'll be taking some longer trips with it and reserve the right to change my vode on this matter.

Thank you for your time and effort on the development of this.

[Hog Head]

A riding review video of my bike with the belt drive fitted for over 10,000 Km
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF_hU3NK7Zs

[Morgan65]

Yes, as the belt is an endless loop, there is no other way.  In fact the stock chain is an endless loop as well, and would need to be cut off or broken at chain time.  With the exception of pulling the swingarm, the work is the same as replacing the chain and sprockets. Unlike a big Bagger, the swingarm is easy and simply involves pulling the pin and it drops right out - about an additional 10 min to the job.  The biggest part of the job is to re&re the wheel. It takes me, at 70, about 2 hours to do the job - maybe a bit longer for someone doing it the first time. Part of that time is changing the wheel bearings, and cleaning up the oily chain mess.

1) Why would you need to cut off the chain when you can just remove the master link?
 2) Do you need to change out the stock wheel bearings to fit your belt kit?
 3) Can you still use the stock chain guard after fitting your belt kit?
 4) Does your kit include a lower belt guard to help keep the front tire from flipping debris on the belt? I’ve seen broken Harley Davidson belts when owners remove the belt guards. Many times it’s gravel that flips up from the front tire and shreds the belt.

[Hog Head]

1) Why would you need to cut off the chain when you can just remove the master link?
 2) Do you need to change out the stock wheel bearings to fit your belt kit?
 3) Can you still use the stock chain guard after fitting your belt kit?
 4) Does your kit include a lower belt guard to help keep the front tire from flipping debris on the belt? I’ve seen broken Harley Davidson belts when owners remove the belt guards. Many times it’s gravel that flips up from the front tire and shreds the belt.

1.  There is no master link, and the stock chain is an endless loop. 

2. No need, if low km, but mine were no name bearings, and I feel more comfortable with a quality bearing

3.  The stock chain guard will not fit

4.  One however needs to question the purpose of the chainguard - is it to keep the chain from flinging oil all over you and the bike, or to keep your fingers out of the rotating chain? 

If the reason for either a top or bottom guard, is to keep out rocks, is not an L shaped guard like the HD upper or lower guard, more of a rock trap than a shield?   Unless the guard is fully enclosed (impossible with an endless belt unless a 2 piece guard) a rock can get trapped in the guard, rather than being flung out, increasing any potential risk; and why I removed my guard.  160,000 km the last HD belt while living at the end of a 1 km gravel drive supported my theory, however others are not so lucky and s**t happens

If you do not hold to this theory, and some do not, then it is not a big deal to fabricate a guard.  If there is demand I will do so, but seemingly not at this point

[Hog Head]

1.  There is no master link, and the stock chain is an endless loop. 

2. No need, if low km, but mine were no name bearings, and I feel more comfortable with a quality bearing

1.1  As the belt is an endless loop, it really does not matter how the chain is joined, as the swingarm must come off

2.2  The wheel bearings control axial runout and at about 20.00 USD for all 3 from a bearing house, is cheap preventative maintaince.  The last thing you need is to do the belt change, and then find that runout is excessive, and have to go back and change the bearings.
Same arguement for the cush drive rubbers, and the Interceptor service manual says that need to be changed at 20,000 km, which is a hint on their quality.  A bit surprising as other such drives that I have owned last a LOT longer than 20,000 km.

[Morgan65]

1.  There is no master link, and the stock chain is an endless loop. 

That’s odd my Super Meteor drive chain has a master link. 🤔 Just like all the chain drive bikes I’ve owned in the last 60 years.

[Hog Head]

That’s odd my Super Meteor drive chain has a master link. 🤔 Just like all the chain drive bikes I’ve owned in the last 60 years.

I have had the swingarm off 3 times, and there is no master link.  The chain is also not a o-ring design and judging on how it looks at 5000 km, I do not expect long life. 
Maybe their supplier has changed, or a regional market issue?

[Hog Head]

Super Meteor belt drive conversion kits ready to ship