[SteveThackery]

All the connections in the assembly are hard connected to a wiring harness that goes to the headlight assembly. The only detachable connector is the 9 pin connector in the headlight shell.
 I have replaced both sides of mine and had them both disassembled.
  To jump the kill switch you would need to physically disconnect the wires from the switch at the switch end, modify the 9-pin end inside the headlight shell or make an intermediate jumped block for the 9-pin end.
 The latter is what I did to get a headlight/driving light switch to work.
 The wiring diagram does not show actual wiring harness connections, just where they connect to the physical switch.

Excellent, thank you. So the entire right hand switch assembly has one harness that terminates in a connector inside the headlamp shell. That explains it perfectly, including the pin numbering. Thanks again, Jess.

[Ted_Flash]

Put a little self tap screw into the plastic kill switch toggle to stop it moving at all.  I did that on the headlight flasher switch to prevent inadvertent flashing (ooh, missus!)

[TSTM]

And still your nickname is Ted_Flash 

[motohonace]

Thank you Jess for your very through reply. I have a switch on order, but there is a long wait time. I will first try to clean the contacts & if no go I will connect the two wires as you suggested to bypass the switch

[JessHerbst]

Thank you Jess for your very through reply. I have a switch on order, but there is a long wait time. I will first try to clean the contacts & if no go I will connect the two wires as you suggested to bypass the switch

👍🏻