Author Topic: Hello to all from Ohio, USA  (Read 2563 times)

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motorhedfred

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on: November 09, 2023, 07:24:17 pm
I have a 2020 Bullet 500 Trials Works replica.
The bike has less than 1000 miles on the odo and I'm having fueling issues. The fuel pump doesn't come on when the key is switched on and the kill switch is in the run position. Yes, the side stand is up, the fuse is good but I replaced it with a new one just to be sure. I found the connector for the fuel pump, separated it and check for current. The battery is showing 12.8 volts but with the key and handlebar switch in the run position, the pump harness connector only shows .05 volts. I removed and cleaned the relay terminals and plug but it made no difference in the voltage readout. The multimeter is set for 20v DC.

Any suggestions other than "try the kickstart" are welcome.

Thank you


Haggis

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Reply #1 on: November 09, 2023, 09:14:58 pm
The side stand switch is a born liar.
Just unplug the connector near the left footrest to make sure.
You also have two relays,  a power relay and a pump relay.
When you turn the key on, the power relay sends power to the pump relay. They are interchangeable so you can swap them over.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2023, 09:18:38 pm by Haggis »
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axman88

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Reply #2 on: November 09, 2023, 09:34:00 pm
The Rollover Sensor comes to mind as a possible suspect.

The closest manual I could find to your 2020 is this 2017 Euro IV EFI Service manual, over at Manualslib dot com.  Perhaps that will be helpful.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1582310/Royal-Enfield-Bullet-Efi.html#manual
« Last Edit: November 09, 2023, 09:36:33 pm by axman88 »


motorhedfred

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Reply #3 on: November 10, 2023, 09:05:03 pm
*Update*
As an alternative to unplugging the side stand switch per Haggis' suggestion, I switched on the key and toggled the kill switch to the run position. I then raised and dropped the side stand whilst listening for a clicking relay.

I don't know which one clicked so I swapped the main and pump relays and it made the same sound. This leads me to believe it's neither a relay nor fuse problem as the pump remains silent.

I'm still baffled.


motorhedfred

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Reply #4 on: November 10, 2023, 09:12:11 pm
axman88, thanks for the manuals suggestion. I have it downloaded to my phone and also ordered a printed version from eBay. The trouble is I can't make out the wiring color codes on either format. The plug from the main harness has a black wire and a red/blue/white wire going into it.


Haggis

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Reply #5 on: November 10, 2023, 09:16:01 pm
Be aware that the sidestand switch has its own relay.
It's a normally closed type whereas the other two are normally open type.
You may have been hearing the sidestand relay and not the power relay.
The pump has three wires on the harness side but the pump only uses two.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2023, 09:39:07 pm by Haggis »
Off route, recalculate?


motorhedfred

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Reply #6 on: November 12, 2023, 10:19:24 pm
Haggis, thank you. I'll assume the clicking was the side stand relay was doing the clicking and since up or down made no difference the problem is elsewhere.

In hopes of finding a suitable relay locally, the next step will be buying 2 new relays for the pump and power circuits. If none are available locally I'll order some from Hitchcock's. If the doesn't breath some life into it, I'll rig a harness to feed power directly to the pump (hopefully it can stand a few seconds of 12 volts to verify it works.


motorhedfred

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Reply #7 on: November 14, 2023, 08:29:57 pm
The local parts stores are telling me Bosch p/n 0332201207 is a match in terms of specifications to the factory RE 585681 relay. Does anyone have experience with this? I imagine it may be an upgrade if it fits and functions.


axman88

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Reply #8 on: November 14, 2023, 09:01:01 pm
The local parts stores are telling me Bosch p/n 0332201207 is a match in terms of specifications to the factory RE 585681 relay. Does anyone have experience with this? I imagine it may be an upgrade if it fits and functions.
No experience, but I am good at looking things up. 

Not finding that particular number on the Bosch literature.
https://www.boschautoparts.com/documents/647135/656951/Relays,%20Fuses%20and%20Accessories.pdf

Bosch's 0332201107 looks like the right stuff to me, based on what I can make out on the diagram in the manual.

This latter P/N looks to be a 12V, 30A, 5 pin relay with a resistor in parallel with the coil and a 1P2T contact configuration.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0332201107-Spark-Plugs-332201107/dp/B00BHIIJVG

Does the relay you want to replace have a diagram printed on it?


motorhedfred

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Reply #9 on: November 15, 2023, 01:25:32 am
axman88, yes it does. This is the clearest picture I could get of it. Thanks for your help everybody. I see there's still plenty of grease in the relay socket. Is it safe to use brake clean on it?
« Last Edit: November 15, 2023, 01:33:34 am by motorhedfred »


Richard230

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Reply #10 on: November 15, 2023, 02:00:15 pm
axman88, yes it does. This is the clearest picture I could get of it. Thanks for your help everybody. I see there's still plenty of grease in the relay socket. Is it safe to use brake clean on it?

I don't think I would use brake cleaner on the relay, but most auto shops and hardware stores carry an electronic spray contact cleaner that is safe to use on electronic components and costs no more than brake cleaner. You could probably also clean it with alcohol.  ???
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axman88

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Reply #11 on: November 15, 2023, 03:02:22 pm
The Bosch 0 332 201 107 looks to me to be the same configuration as your BGLI made BGR 202 1C.

I'm not finding dimensional or pinout info on the BGLI, but you can compare this info from Bosch data sheet to the part you have:
(Page 5 for 0 332 201 107)   https://www.dalroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Bosch-Micro-Relays.pdf   Obviously the spade terminal dimensions and spacing must match.

You can test pinout (and function) on your existing.   The test result in this video looks consistent with the Bosch datasheet to me during a brief peek.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=fn5SCFV2lEw

This 5 terminal automotive relay seems to be a quite widely made component, I see various makers in a search.  My guess would be Bosch developed the package and the alternates are knock-offs with the same spec.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0332201107
https://westerncyclesupply.com/relay-5-pin/

BGLI is a Maharashtra, India based manufacturer of automotive relays.   https://www.bgliin.com/

The same relay is apparently also used on other RE models:   https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=29682.0


Elhermosorolando

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Reply #12 on: November 18, 2023, 08:01:39 am
Hello everyone,
I have a classic 500, I have already done 40,000 km and a few days ago I have noticed that when I start in the sun (which is common in the south of Spain) it is more difficult than early in the morning. I have only cleaned the spark plug and cleaned the side leg switch with contact cleaning spray. Some days it does and other days it doesn't. Today I will try to clean the relay contacts and I will tell you. Any information is welcome. Thank you.


motorhedfred

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Reply #13 on: November 20, 2023, 01:02:17 am
*update* I received the Bosch relays I ordered from Amazon today. I installed them and nothing changed, still no fuel pump. I tried swapping them, still nothing. Out of frustration, I tried tried holding the relay socket and wiggling the relays with everything turned on. Again nothing. I started inspecting the wiring but forgot to turn off the power. When I got back to the relay socket I heard clicking. I held the the relays and wiggled the wires going into socket. I got  the fuel pump to run until the injection primed and cut off the pump. Unfortunately, it won't stay running unless I'm holding the wires and manipulating the harness in a specific way.

So.....I now know where to problem lives. I just need to figure out how to make it go away reliably.

Thanks for all your help and input.

MHF


Haggis

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Reply #14 on: November 20, 2023, 12:29:56 pm
At least you know where the problem lies now.
I had a similar incident with the wires behind the fuse block rubbing themselves to death on the metalwork. Caught them in time and wrapped them with spiral cable protector.
Off route, recalculate?