[KD5ITM]

Iv got a 2014 GT 535 that I bought new from the local Houston Tx dealer.  The bike, with 11,500 miles on it is stock other then the “Stage 1 Performance Kit” (Power Commander 5, free flow pipe and muffler and K&N filter). 

If I wanted to install a performance cam, what engine modifications would also need to be done, or is installing a new cam more “plug and play”? 

What kind of performance would be expected?  The RPM range that my GT 535 lives at is between 3,000 and 4,000 RPMs.  Shifting at no higher then 4,100 RPMs. 

Iv heard on this message board quite a few times that installing the 612 big bore kit  “makes quite a bit more torque at lower RPMs which is good for side car use or in hilly locations, but at the same time causes the 535 to run out of breath at higher RPM’s”.

How would a performance cam change the power / torque curve?  Here in Houston, about the only hills we have are freeway overpasses, and I have no desire to install a side car to a cafe bike.  If all it took was just the installation of the cam with no other engine mods, would a proper Power Commander 5 tune on a dino, be enough to make for a bit more noticeable power, allowing the GT 535 to have a bit more punch when trying to pass a semi truck on the freeway at 62 - 64 MPH or when riding in to a decent block headwind? 

[ace.cafe]

In most cases, performance cams are to increase rpm range to get more hp that way. They often do not help at the rpms that you said you ride at. But they will give a noticeable power bump at rpms higher than 4000rpm, at a possible reduction of power below 4000.

The best things you can do to increase torque over the entire rpm range are increasing compression or displacement.
The 612 kit is a very big labor job, in addition to expense.

My advice is to increase compression by doing the "squish mod". It is very low cost, and moderate labor involved. If you are capable to pull the barrel, you can do it. You will need to measure(with a depth gauge) the depth of the piston down the bore at TDC from the deck of the barrel, with the head and head gasket removed. And you need access to a machinist to machine the deck of the barrel down that same measured amount(about a mm or so), so that the piston will be flush to the top of the barrel at TDC. The amount to machine off the top of the barrel will be the same as your measurement that your piston is down the bore from the top at TDC. Maybe, you may need to shorten the locating pins for the head if they stick up too far after the mod, which is simply grinding them a bit shorter.
Then, upon reassembly, the thickness of the head gasket will set the proper squish distance.
That's it.

It increases the compression and creates a squish function for improved combustion efficiency, so it should not ping. If it does ping, you might need to use mid-grade 89 instead of 87. We have not seen that need, but in interests of full disclosure, increasing compression 'might' need a couple more octane points. My experiences indicate that you should still be fine with 87 after doing the squish mod.
It gives a small(but noticeable) torque and hp increase at all rpms, improves responsiveness to throttle input, and  should show a small improvement in fuel economy mpg.

Cost is very low. A small machining fee, and some new gaskets.

[Guaire]

In most cases, performance cams are to increase rpm range to get more hp that way. They often do not help at the rpms that you said you ride at. But they will give a noticeable power bump at rpms higher than 4000rpm, at a possible reduction of power below 4000.

The best things you can do to increase torque over the entire rpm range are increasing compression or displacement.
The 612 kit is a very big labor job, in addition to expense.

My advice is to increase compression by doing the "squish mod". It is very low cost, and moderate labor involved. If you are capable to pull the barrel, you can do it. You will need to measure(with a depth gauge) the depth of the piston down the bore at TDC from the deck of the barrel, with the head and head gasket removed. And you need access to a machinist to machine the deck of the barrel down that same measured amount(about a mm or so), so that the piston will be flush to the top of the barrel at TDC. The amount to machine off the top of the barrel will be the same as your measurement that your piston is down the bore from the top at TDC. Maybe, you may need to shorten the locating pins for the head if they stick up too far after the mod, which is simply grinding them a bit shorter.
Then, upon reassembly, the thickness of the head gasket will set the proper squish distance.
That's it.

It increases the compression and creates a squish function for improved combustion efficiency, so it should not ping. If it does ping, you might need to use mid-grade 89 instead of 87. We have not seen that need, but in interests of full disclosure, increasing compression 'might' need a couple more octane points. My experiences indicate that you should still be fine with 87 after doing the squish mod.
It gives a small(but noticeable) torque and hp increase at all rpms, improves responsiveness to throttle input, and  should show a small improvement in fuel economy mpg.

Cost is very low. A small machining fee, and some new gaskets.

ACE Motors Performance cams are in stock.
If you do change cams, look at the install video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwayYPUtvZ4

[bthtony55?]

I have seen that retarding the inlet cam a tooth can help performance. Could you do this as well as the squish machining to improve performance or would you lose some performance. ?
Would the same mods work with the 500 EFI motor as well.

[StreetKleaver]

The Performance Cams just bolted in on their own without any other engine modifications aren't really a great upgrade.
On their own they are very peaky and others mentioned the power doesn't come on song till around 3500-4000 rpm. Which is typically your cruising zones on highway speeds but manners around town riding will suffer. The bottom end will be very doughy and uneventful.

Compression needs to be raised, Valves & Springs need upgrading, Porting, Exhaust length, Inlet tract length and gearing all needs tuned to balance these cams out to become a nice street worthy engine.

It's taken me months but I've managed to tune my GT to have a very nice, smooth linear power delivery with a strong top end and reaches "the ton".

[KD5ITM]

My advice is to increase compression by doing the "squish mod". It is very low cost, and moderate labor involved. If you are capable to pull the barrel, you can do it. You will need to measure(with a depth gauge) the depth of the piston down the bore at TDC from the deck of the barrel, with the head and head gasket removed. And you need access to a machinist to machine the deck of the barrel down that same measured amount(about a mm or so), so that the piston will be flush to the top of the barrel at TDC. The amount to machine off the top of the barrel will be the same as your measurement that your piston is down the bore from the top at TDC. Maybe, you may need to shorten the locating pins for the head if they stick up too far after the mod, which is simply grinding them a bit shorter.
Then, upon reassembly, the thickness of the head gasket will set the proper squish distance.
That's it.

It increases the compression and creates a squish function for improved combustion efficiency, so it should not ping. If it does ping, you might need to use mid-grade 89 instead of 87. We have not seen that need, but in interests of full disclosure, increasing compression 'might' need a couple more octane points. My experiences indicate that you should still be fine with 87 after doing the squish mod.
It gives a small(but noticeable) torque and hp increase at all rpms, improves responsiveness to throttle input, and  should show a small improvement in fuel economy mpg.

Cost is very low. A small machining fee, and some new gaskets.

Yes, my background since graduating high school in 2000 has mostly consisted of turning a wrench. Plant maintenance, forklift mechanic, heavy equipment mechanic. So turning a wrench is right up my alley and something that doesn't scare me.

I've heard of the squash method several times throughout the years on this group but haven't really taking the time to see just what all it entails.

I do agree, increasing compression would definitely be an affordable way to gain Instant Power across the RPM range. Now that here in Houston winter is starting to come. There's a couple of weeks usually in January where temperatures are below 40°, that would be a good time to tackle the squash method.

I believe I read on here several years ago that you cut your teeth with Mondello. I'd like to sit down over a cup of coffee and chew your brain about that. I'm a huge Oldsmobile guy. My dad did his apprenticeship right after high school '67-'69 in the late sixties with oldsmobile. I've got a factory original unrestored Survivor 79 Hurst/Olds W-30 that I bought when I was 17 sitting in the garage. Multiple high-end award-winning show car. In fact the dealership my dad worked at, Cortese Olds in the San Francisco Bay Area was the very first dealership on the west coast to receive a 68 Hurst olds. Nobody knew what it was and nobody could figure out why a Cutlass had a 455 in it.

[ace.cafe]

Cool!

Regarding the squish mod, it is a prerequisite before any additional UCE performance mods.
They just didn't get it right at the factory. Maybe they have some obscure reason for leaving the piston down the bore at TDC, but it definitely isn't for performance.

[KD5ITM]

What is the compression ratio after doing the machine work?  I run top grade gas just for that reason, to help with the ping problem.

[ace.cafe]

What is the compression ratio after doing the machine work?  I run top grade gas just for that reason, to help with the ping problem.

Static ratio would be about 9:1 but the cylinder pressure is not the only factor.
The squish causes much improved mixture motion which speeds up the burn and fights ping. Our experiences with this is that premium gas is not necessary to fight ping because the squish is effective.

[StreetKleaver]

KD5ITM

Have a read of Taurims and my build thread within this section. Both well documented and will give you a good understanding what's involved.

[bthtony55?]

I have an aftermarket exhaust and air filter. The std fuel injection works fine with this. Will increasing the CR need any upgrades on the system or will the std FI unit compensate for it ok.

[ace.cafe]

I have an aftermarket exhaust and air filter. The std fuel injection works fine with this. Will increasing the CR need any upgrades on the system or will the std FI unit compensate for it ok.

The squish mod compression increase should not require mixture change, but it may tolerate a slightly leaner mixture due to more complete burn.

[KD5ITM]

This is all good information. Great project coming up here at the after the first of the year when here in Houston we have our 2 to 3 weeks of winter with temperatures below 40 degrees which is enough excuse to stay off the bike for a couple of weeks lol.

[Captain Bob]

I have an aftermarket exhaust and air filter. The std fuel injection works fine with this. Will increasing the CR need any upgrades on the system or will the std FI unit compensate for it ok.

I just installed a hi-flow air cleaner and Muffler on my CGT as well.  I also installed the Dobeck EJK (Electronic Jet Kit).  The EJK, with its base settings Works quite well.  I took it for a spin today for the first time and was quite pleased.  Definitely runs better than with the standard FI map.  Only issue was, I couldn't take it for a long enough ride.  Temps are pretty cool here in the Northeast (USA) at the moment.  When the weather warms a bit, I will then give it a proper test.  May even bring it to a shop near me that does dyno tuning and see what we can do.  Were you getting the pinging prior to you installing the exhaust and Air Cleaner?  the squish mod sounds very interesting.  First, I have heard of it.

[KD5ITM]

I just installed a hi-flow air cleaner and Muffler on my CGT as well.  I also installed the Dobeck EJK (Electronic Jet Kit).  The EJK, with its base settings Works quite well.  I took it for a spin today for the first time and was quite pleased.  Definitely runs better than with the standard FI map.  Only issue was, I couldn't take it for a long enough ride.  Temps are pretty cool here in the Northeast (USA) at the moment.  When the weather warms a bit, I will then give it a proper test.  May even bring it to a shop near me that does dyno tuning and see what we can do.  Were you getting the pinging prior to you installing the exhaust and Air Cleaner?  the squish mod sounds very interesting.  First, I have heard of it.

These bikes come from the factory pinging. especially below 3,000 RPMs.  I run the high grade pump gas and it still pings below 3,000 RPMs. Have never tried useding an octane boost in the fuel.  I have the Power Commander 5 installed along with the Hitchcocks stainless steel header and muffler, and K&N filter.  Im running the stock PC5 timing map.  I have added a tick more fuel across the RPM range that I ride in.  Im sure putting the bike on a dyno where you can properly tuen the timing will make a world of difference with the pinging.  I know of a local high quality shop that has a dyno and is very familiar with the DinoJet Power Commander 5.  If Im going to do the “Squash” method here in Jan. after the new year when here in Houston we have our 2 - 3 weeks of winter, Ill wait to get the dyno test done after I do the work on the engine.