Author Topic: Gearing  (Read 2069 times)

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Blaqkfox

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on: October 09, 2022, 10:23:01 pm
Been awhile since I've been on here! Probably a good thing...

But I want to talk about gearing. I live in the back woods country hills of Tennessee. I commute 32 miles to work, and it's about everything the little Enfield can do to keep up on these 45-55 mph highway and back roads. I could care less about the low end, I just need as much top end as I can give it. Now theres a place around here that custom makes sprockets for motorcycles so I can get any tooth count I like. So part of my winter plans for the Enfield is to re-gear it. I Have to pull the primary and clutch and all apart this winter to fix a leak anyways so I was wondering if its better to re-sproket from the engine side or the wheel side? Does it really matter all that much? And what tooth count should I am for? What its the ideal tooth count to be able to cruise at about 65mph? I can do it now but my electra is turning every bit of 4-4.5k rpms to do those speeds. I have heard riding these bikes at a constant 60mph can lead to engine failure. Is that true? Or maybe that was just true of the older iron barrel? Because I do that 45 minutes - 1 hour every time I ride my bike to work and its been just fine for the last 1500 miles I put on it since I got it last year. The bike only has 3200 miles on it currently.

Thanks.
-Adam


AzCal Retred

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Reply #1 on: October 09, 2022, 11:21:23 pm
Bare motorcycles have a lot of air drag. These machines make about 22-24 BHP on a cool day. It takes likely at least +20 HP to reliably run 65 MPH. The Electra is likely doing its maximum effort at 65-70, so the gearing would need to match the peak power RPM to that road speed, hence the strained 4500 RPM.

The traditional litany is : "55 all day, 60 for awhile, 80 one time". The Electra has the roller con rod, so that's good. The OEM piston looks a LOT nicer than my PU Buller slug. It also has that wonderful 5 speed box. Likely you can buzz it a bit more than the older units. It still has the 90mm stroke, so it's not really suited for high RPM work. The sprag gear is part of the primary sprocket, so primary side ratio changes might be iffy. The rear brake drum is also the 38T sprocket.

What I would do if I had a burning need to run 65 is get Hitchcock's Electra big bore kit:
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Electra-Big-Bore-Kit-and-Forged-Piston/19273
PART No. 90137; ELECTRA X (STAGE 2), BIG BORE KIT, 535cc, MATCHED CYLINDER AND PISTON (BLACK CYLINDER); £418
BIG BORE KIT (ELECTRA X), 535cc, MATCHED CYLINDER AND PISTON (BLACK CYLINDER) SUPPLIED WITH HEAD GASKET
A big bore kit for the 500cc Electra X which takes it to 535cc (this is Stage 2 of our Electra X performance kit). Giving a compression ratio of approximately 8.5:1 and the extra 35cc engine size. It produces the extra performance you are looking for, with the benefits of a strong, robust and reliable forged piston. It is an excellent improvement and you can either bore your 500 barrel to 87mm and fit our 535cc piston or have a matched cylinder and piston. The piston come complete with rings, gudgeon pin and circlips and a solid copper head gasket is supplied.

This kit makes more power so the likelihood of finding a happy ratio at 65 is greater.

Then I'd get one of these, a 19T front sprocket and a bolt-on rear sprocket of my choice:
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/18715?cont_page=information-and-services/Royal-Enfield-Electra-X-Accessories&keyword=sprocket
PART No. 92629; REAR BRAKE DRUM, 4 VANES (1986on), MACHINED FOR BOLT ON SPROCKETS; £90.00
Rear brake drum (4 vanes / 1986on) machined to take OUR bolt on sprockets. We can supply a bolt on steel or alloy sprocket in various sizes so that you can raise or lower your gearing quickly.

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/11388?cont_page=information-and-services/Royal-Enfield-Electra-X-Accessories&keyword=sprocket
PART No. 90095; GEARBOX SPROCKET, 19T, 5 SPEED (NOT EFI); £30.50

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/information-and-services/Royal-Enfield-Electra-X-Accessories?keyword=sprocket

At this point you'd have adjustable gearing options and sufficient power to make a difference.

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Adrian II

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Reply #2 on: October 11, 2022, 12:13:46 am
I know you swapped out the stuffed-up stock exhaust, but a performance carb on there will help. The BS29 CV Mikarb was to help it through the emissions regulations. Yes they're tunable, as I have posted in the past, but there's also loads of info on here about the TM and VM32 Mikunis. "S" profile cams off a Redditch Bullet or Indian Woodsman will give you more top-end instead of valve bounce at higher RPMs.

If you're taller and heavier you might find the stock gearing (18T gearbox sprocket, 38T rear) is over-geared, causing the bike to run out of puff at WOT in 5th gear. I am and mine did!17T on the gearbox was better all round with no loss of top speed.

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allanfox

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Reply #3 on: October 11, 2022, 08:57:21 am
Been awhile since I've been on here! Probably a good thing...

But I want to talk about gearing. I live in the back woods country hills of Tennessee. I commute 32 miles to work, and it's about everything the little Enfield can do to keep up on these 45-55 mph highway and back roads. I could care less about the low end, I just need as much top end as I can give it. Now theres a place around here that custom makes sprockets for motorcycles so I can get any tooth count I like. So part of my winter plans for the Enfield is to re-gear it. I Have to pull the primary and clutch and all apart this winter to fix a leak anyways so I was wondering if its better to re-sproket from the engine side or the wheel side? Does it really matter all that much? And what tooth count should I am for? What its the ideal tooth count to be able to cruise at about 65mph? I can do it now but my electra is turning every bit of 4-4.5k rpms to do those speeds. I have heard riding these bikes at a constant 60mph can lead to engine failure. Is that true? Or maybe that was just true of the older iron barrel? Because I do that 45 minutes - 1 hour every time I ride my bike to work and its been just fine for the last 1500 miles I put on it since I got it last year. The bike only has 3200 miles on it currently.

Thanks.

I wouldn't start with the gearing (other than as Adrian suggests and dropping it a tooth), if you can only get 45 - 50 out of a 500 AVL engine there is something wrong with something. Timing is most likely ok with the TCI ignition and as you have upgraded the exhaust it can't be that, yes I would think you need to complement the exhaust with a better carb (sort of half the job done) but something is wrong, try a better iridium spark plug and take it out for a blast with no air filter.  If you still have all the environmental stuff fitted there is a very good chance it is blowing excessive oil mist into the air filter and blocking it up, highly likely unless you have recently changed the air filter?  Just pop the side panel off open the air filter box and remove the filter, quick run and do give it some, I would be surprised if it doesn't run better, you may find the air filter box is full of oil anyway.  These were road tested at over 80 out of the box, other than the exhaust and carb mine is standard and happily goes straight up through the gears to 70 and will cruise there (still on the stock  high gearing at present) for a 30 mile run (ok hands might tingle a bit!! ) but is very comfy at 65 for long runs.


Blaqkfox

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Reply #4 on: October 13, 2022, 05:33:55 am
I wouldn't start with the gearing (other than as Adrian suggests and dropping it a tooth), if you can only get 45 - 50 out of a 500 AVL engine there is something wrong with something. Timing is most likely ok with the TCI ignition and as you have upgraded the exhaust it can't be that, yes I would think you need to complement the exhaust with a better carb (sort of half the job done) but something is wrong, try a better iridium spark plug and take it out for a blast with no air filter.  If you still have all the environmental stuff fitted there is a very good chance it is blowing excessive oil mist into the air filter and blocking it up, highly likely unless you have recently changed the air filter?  Just pop the side panel off open the air filter box and remove the filter, quick run and do give it some, I would be surprised if it doesn't run better, you may find the air filter box is full of oil anyway.  These were road tested at over 80 out of the box, other than the exhaust and carb mine is standard and happily goes straight up through the gears to 70 and will cruise there (still on the stock  high gearing at present) for a 30 mile run (ok hands might tingle a bit!! ) but is very comfy at 65 for long runs.

In stock form I could get up to 70 without much strain, but from 70 on it was a very slow climb, I have touched 80mph on it one time when I first got it to see what it could do. It seemed that was it’s top speed.

I have since modified the exhaust, played with carb tuning, deleted the PAV, and put a good plug in it. The air filter is fine, I’m not getting hardly any oil blow by in there (surprisingly). I thought about going to a high flow filter, more on that in a minute…

I had trouble tuning the BS29 carb. It’s been awhile and I don’t exactly recall, but iirc I was using a 115 main and it was still looking a bit lean on the plug and my exhaust was turning purple. I went to a 120 main and then it was so rich it fowled a plug once but seemed pretty happy other than that. I dialed it back to a 118 main since then and it’s still a bit rich on the plug. I’ve also adjusted to a 17.5 pilot iirc and I’m on the lowest clip to put my needle at the highest point. At one point I actually shimmed the needle beyond that by a click.

With the 120 I ran for several hundred miles my top speed was around 70, but it was a slow climb after 55mph. Now with the 118 it’s still about a 70mph top speed but gets up to 60/65 rather easily. So yeah maybe a high flow air filter could lean it out a bit to get it more away from being slightly too rich as it is now.

I’ve clearly still got some fine tuning to sort through, but I’ll probably just toss the BS29 for a VM30 or VM32 if I can’t sort it with a sprocket.

A sprocket change is just so much easier than adapting a whole new aftermarket carb. And I’m not running that rich. The “lean burning” Electra here kept worrying me when I was trying to tune that carb since the plug was always bone white, so I’d rather be a bit rich and on the safe side ya know, I just want to be able to do 65 constantly without worrying about wearing the bike down, because that’s really all the riding I do on it tbh. Everywhere around here for a 500-1k+ mile radius is mainly country backroads where people drive 50-60mph+.

AZCal:
I don’t like the idea of the big bore kit because it’s expensive. I’d rather just buy another bike than spend all that money and do all that work. I can have custom made sprockets done cheaply by a place called Rebel Gears out here. They do amazing work. So you’re saying to stick with changing the rear sprocket?

I’m curious on why somebody would change one over the other? Is there a mathematical reason to do the engine sprocket over the wheel sprocket or vise versa? (For any bike I mean, not just our royals). Or is it just a preference thing? Like will doing one vs the other have a different feel in any way at all?

Adrian:
I’m about as average as average gets ha. I’m like 5’7” and weigh like 160lbs. So not tall and not heavy. I have read a forum post from another USA member who lived close to my area and said they switched to a 18T and loved it. It’s very hilly here in Tennessee. We have lots of mountains, though they’re not super steep or tall. In fact it’s the same mountains you all have over there, the oldest mountains in the world iirc, it’s believed we share them now because we used to share them back when Pangea existed (when all the continents were connected) so y’all got some of the same mountains. The Appalachian and the eastern Greenland mountains to be exact.

Perhaps I will try the 18T. I just worry it will be difficult to change if I ever want to go back. Right now I don’t mind because I have to take my whole primary innards apart to fix an oil leak, but it seems the rear would be easier to change yeah? Especially considering I can cheaply have a custom one made. Is there a reason people like to change the engine sprocket instead? Seems like a much more difficult job the way these bikes are set up. I do like the idea of the cam swap though. Perhaps I will attempt that one day

« Last Edit: October 13, 2022, 05:39:23 am by Blaqkfox »
-Adam


Adrian II

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Reply #5 on: October 13, 2022, 10:05:04 am
Leave the engine sprocket alone, it's the only one which will work with the electric start. If swapping gearbox sprockets doesn't appeal, you can also get a plain rear brake drum for bolt on rear wheel sprockets of different sizes from Hitchcocks', but I don't know without checking whether they offer one smaller than 38T to raise the gearing.

I'm not entirely sure what size gearbox sprocket you already have, 18T was stock for the Electra-X.

A.
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Blaqkfox

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Reply #6 on: October 13, 2022, 07:32:30 pm
Leave the engine sprocket alone, it's the only one which will work with the electric start. If swapping gearbox sprockets doesn't appeal, you can also get a plain rear brake drum for bolt on rear wheel sprockets of different sizes from Hitchcocks', but I don't know without checking whether they offer one smaller than 38T to raise the gearing.

I'm not entirely sure what size gearbox sprocket you already have, 18T was stock for the Electra-X.

A.

Oh I think we have a miscommunication, when I say engine sprocket I mean the gearbox sprocket. I don’t mean the one inside the primary cover lol I was wondering what you were on about.

So is it preferable to change the gearbox sprocket over the wheel sprocket?

I won’t get it from H’s, I can have it custom made locally for cheaper
-Adam


Paul W

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Reply #7 on: October 13, 2022, 08:58:02 pm
I have a Hitchcock’s rear brake hub/sprocket which is machined so that other sizes can be fitted. I don’t see that it’s possible to fit a smaller sprocket than a standard 38 tooth one, simply because its inner diameter would be too small to bolt on. If the standard 38 is retro-fitted, there’s barely enough metal to be safe.

My 350 has a 42 tooth rear sprocket fitted and I use an 18 tooth one at the front on its 5 speed gearbox. This gives just about the same overall gearing as the standard 16/38.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2022, 09:04:58 pm by Paul W »
Paul W.


axman88

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Reply #8 on: October 19, 2022, 05:06:43 pm

So is it preferable to change the gearbox sprocket over the wheel sprocket?

I think that most folks don't change the rear sprocket because it's part of the same casting as the brake drum.  Isn't it that way on your machine?


AzCal Retred

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Reply #9 on: October 19, 2022, 07:07:00 pm
That's what's in the parts book...
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Adrian II

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Reply #10 on: October 19, 2022, 10:44:00 pm
That's what came out of the factory. However, Hitchcocks' brought out a replacement which takes bolt-on sprocket rings of different sizes so that folks can modify the gearing at the rear wheel as well as at the gearbox.

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Rear-Wheel-Sprockets-Bolt-On/18715



A.
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Paul W

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Reply #11 on: October 21, 2022, 06:52:53 pm
This is the Hitchcock’s machined drum/sprocket I referred to a couple of posts back and it’s what’s fitted to my 350, with a 42 tooth sprocket.

Comparing it to a standard item should make it obvious why anything smaller than 38 teeth can’t be fitted.
Paul W.


Blaqkfox

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Reply #12 on: December 22, 2022, 07:51:28 am
Alright so it’s finally winter. Im ready to order parts to up gear this thing. I noticed H’s sells up to a 22T gearbox sprocket. Which seems like a massive jump. That’s good. I want a massive jump. I just wonder if it’s too much, and how much top end I could gain realistically.

I think I have the standard 2.11 gear ratio with the 18/38T, but I’ve read claims that the Electra had a 17T or a 19T? So I need to verify on my bike.

I’ve also read the 20T seems pretty well received, but doesn’t change much as far as top speed, just a more relaxed cruising rpm.

What little I’ve read so far made it seem like the 21T made getting out of 1st difficult.

So the 22T seems like it might be a bit insane. I mean it would be pushing my ratio to a 1.73. That’s around a 20% change from factory.

Has anyone tried the 22T? What was your top speed with it?

I don’t hardly ever need 1st except in my drive way and the maybe 6 stop lights I ever encounter living out in the middle of nowhere as I do. But it is all highways around here so if I want as much top speed as I can milk it for. But we do have a lot of hills around here, so that’s a bit concerning. Most of them are gradual hills though, not drastic ones. So I don’t mind keeping the rpms high in the low gears to climb those. But the bike already struggles to just keep its pace up even gradual hills if I’m in the higher gears.

I don’t think changing the rear sprocket is an option here. Even with H’s drum for bolt ons, they only sell larger than factory rear sprockets. With the way it’s built into the drum I just don’t think the clearance is there to go smaller. If it is lmk, but I have to pull my inner primary off to fix a leak anyways so I don’t mind doing the front, I just want to do the front right since it’s a lot harder to change.

What’s y’all’s experience with gearing and top speeds?
-Adam


Adrian II

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Reply #13 on: December 22, 2022, 01:52:19 pm
Your Electra-X will really struggle with a 22T sprocket. You may also run into clearance issues.

I still think the underlying issue is with lack of engine power, asking it to pull a higher gear under those circumstances will probably knock-out the big-end in fairly short order. It ought to be able to cruise at 60 mph with the right carb and exhaust, maybe 70 with a bit more tuning work - that's with a stock 18T sprocket on the gearbox. As I mentioned above, I dropped a sprocket size on mine to 17T and it was a happier bike as a result.

A.
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Jojje

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Reply #14 on: December 29, 2022, 06:21:03 pm
I've had a 2005 Electra from new, 69,000 km's so far. I soon changed the original carburettor to a 32mm Dell'Orto PHF and also got rid off the "catalytic converter" tube in the header pipe and fitted a K&N air filter. Not that the bike had any difficulties hauling my 95 kg body at 100 km/h + speeds constantly. But it did pep the middle range nicely. I've had the standard gearing all the way. Changing the gearbox sprocket is not so simple job, requiring often special tools, luckily the gear wears very slowly, I've changed mine once. Removing and fitting a carburettor is a piece of cake compared.
Have you checked your air filter isn't clogged?     
« Last Edit: December 29, 2022, 06:24:29 pm by Jojje »