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411 & 450 Himalayan & Scram / Re: Scram valve ticking and exhaust smoke
« Last Post by Goldie on Yesterday at 07:07:15 pm »
Thanks zimmemr, I'll give it a try.
350 J Platform / Re: Out and about photos
« Last Post by Isla on Yesterday at 07:02:18 pm »
And dry, and bright, and warm looking. (We need a "jealous" emoji.)
Understatement! 😹
350 J Platform / Re: Meteor management light
« Last Post by Isla on Yesterday at 07:00:39 pm »
Hiya Sanpan,
Sorry for taking all week but things are a bit hectic at the moment at home!
Have checked my cable with a meter and Carl is correct, it's identical.
Here's one on your local eBay >>>
Best of luck  :)
350 J Platform / Re: Belt drive
« Last Post by axman88 on Yesterday at 06:19:44 pm »
In your study, the properly maintained chain marginally wins at power levels that do not concern a motorcycle (less than 0.28 Hp), and at a constant belt tension.  Millions of Harleys do not use a tensioner either.........
Not MY study, was an independent study.  .28 hp was appropriate to the components chosen, especially considering an average rider will be producing less than half that much.  At 100watts, a typical fit rider output level, the chain was 1% more efficient.  A small difference indeed, bicycles are said to be the MOST efficient machine ever designed.

I'd be happy to look at the published numbers from ANY study, more applicable to motorcycle power levels, including studies commissioned or performed by Gates.  I know how difficult it is to find that information.  The same is true for O-Ring and X-Ring chains, vs. standard roller chains.  We get pre-processed marketing friendly statements, not the underlying data, nor a description of the actual test process, and there is a reason for that.

If you had stated, modern synchronous belt installations will typically run at 92-97% efficiency and can achieve up to 98%, while chain drives in good condition and well lubricated can operate at 95-99% efficiency, you'd have gotten no comment from me.  But when I see only the best possible case number stated, while you know you are working with a less than optimal drive sprocket radius, and I see people stating that belts are more efficient than chains, I have to say, I haven't seen any evidence of this, and I doubt that best case number applies to this retrofit situation.

Perhaps a more transparent claim would be something like, "I expect my belt drive design will be within a few percent of the efficiency of the original chain drive, and better than a chain that is poorly lubricated or worn out.  And, it will not require maintenance over an expected service life of x years."

Regarding HD's and BMW's, one would imagine any machine that was DESIGNED to be built with a belt would have the front sprocket placed to minimize drive length variance, AND provide enough space for a minimum sized front sprocket that didn't reduce efficiency or belt life.  These would have been among the starting points of the design process.

But, neither of these would necessarily be true for a machine designed for chain drive.  Discussion of bikes well engineered for belt drives isn't very relevant to discussion of a retrofit situation.

Speaking of HD's, those guys do experience belt problems now and then.  It's not hard to find multiple posts about belts and pulleys requiring replacement, in some cases after very modest service lives:
I asked above if the goal was common to dirt rider's typical choice of continuing ABS on the front and ABS off on the rear wheel.
If so, the easiest, fastest and most simple way is to replace the rear brake line so that it goes directly from the pedal to the caliper. Don't mess with any sensor, electric anything or the ABS wheel ring.
Obviously, you will plug the ABS unit where the original brake line went in.
No dash light issue and equally as simple to revert back to OEM.

Good thinking, but you will surely get an error message the first time you lock up the back wheel. The controller will notice that it couldn't "unlock" the wheel and report a fault. My guess, at least.
650 Interceptor & Continental GT / Re: Interceptor Footpeg Lowering Kits?
« Last Post by Deathwish on Yesterday at 05:22:26 pm »
Yes. Actually you can move your pegs lower/forward, lower/rearward, higher/forward or higher/rearward. I also went with the 40mm extension. Without it you only have a 20mm adjustment.
650 Interceptor & Continental GT / Re: Interceptor Footpeg Lowering Kits?
« Last Post by BlackdogADV on Yesterday at 05:13:37 pm »
I have installed the one from Hitchcocks. Together with a handle bar riser, riding is now much more comfortable for me.

So that moves your pegs lower and forward about an inch?
411 & 450 Himalayan & Scram / Re: adding lightness
« Last Post by NJ-Brett on Yesterday at 04:54:55 pm »
In the US, you have the XT250 which is 290 pounds wet, low seat, good ground clearance, 2.6 gallons of gas and fuel injected.
It runs great. 70 mph top speed roughly.

The TW200, 280 pounds, with a gearing change, 65 mph top speed roughly, low seat, fat tires.

The Kawasaki KLX 230 and 230s (lower version) 290 pounds, 71/72 mph top speed (speed limited) 6 speed trans, great engine.
2 gallon gas tank (too small).

Honda XR150, 282 pounds, 2.8 gallon gas tank, 65 mph.

Various Euro bikes, generaly expensive, high performance, high maintance.

For street bikes, you had the TU250 ,320 pounds, 3.2 gallons, 70 to 90 mph top speed wind dependant, 80+ mpg fuel injected bullet proof motor, super easy to maintain.

Honda Monkey/Grom, 230 pounds, low seat, 55/60 mph, 120 mpg, more fun you can not have on a bike, street or dirt.

The Royal Enfield Hunter, unsure of the weight but it feels light.
The classic 350, 450 pounds, feels heavy and it is.
Scram411, 420 pounds, feels heavy and it is, but not for a street bike.

We may get the new cb350 and the W250, maybe.
411 & 450 Himalayan & Scram / Re: Royal Enfield service charge!!!
« Last Post by zimmemr on Yesterday at 04:45:13 pm »
      Brainfart! Somehow I saw dollar signs  :)
I see dollar signs all the time, usually as they're leaving my wallet. ;)
411 & 450 Himalayan & Scram / Re: Royal Enfield service charge!!!
« Last Post by tooseevee on Yesterday at 04:39:12 pm »
If you'll do it for $3.00 I'll send you all the tire work you can handle, hell, I'll even make it $5.00, 'cause you seem like a decent guy. ;D ;D ;D

      Brainfart! Somehow I saw dollar signs  :)
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