[viczena]

First one "It had a faulty O-2 sensor .  They adjusted the fuel pump pressure and gave it a general going over."
You cannot adjust the fuel pump pressure. It is 3bar. Thats it. Faulty O2 sensor throws a fault code. Easy to register. These sensors are constantly obeserved by the EFI. And they are very robust. Built by the billions.
They rattled around something and did not know what they are doing. Also happens with carbs.

Second: Air leak of manifold. Also happens with carbs. Not EFI related

Third: plugged injector on a nearly new bike: remains from the factory, gas tank lining or just botch by the factory. Also happens with carbs.

Fourth: unclear. never checked the temp sensor. Never performed the basic check procedure. They poke around without plan. Also happens with carbs.

If you are working with an EFI bike you need a special set of skills and tools: You need to know how to read and understand a workshop manual, a workshop manual, an obd scanner, a multimeter, the ability to read voltage and resistance. And know the difference between the red and the black wire and how to unplug an plug water resistant connectors. If its an EFI related problem, the EFI tells you exactly what is wrong most of the time. In plain english, if you read out the faultcodes with an OBD scanner.

The OBD scanner and a multimeter are for sale, the rest is a kind of education that every 10 year old can achieve. If you are in doubt of a sensor and not the brightest one there is still the way of the layman: Change it with another sensor and look if the error is still there. Nothing too complicated for a workshop. You can even take it from another bike and switch it back later. Just a thing of minutes for each sensor.

[muezler]

What options exist for replacing the ECU based ignition system?  Can the existing crankshaft position sensor serve as a pickup coil for an aftermarket electronic ignition?  Somebody talked about a stator change?  To AVL parts?

Does the ECU perform any other functions?  Safety switches, annunciator lamps etc?

So far I have only seen complete carb swaps that also include the removal of the magneto as well as the ECU.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RNdSTEhRwY&t=761s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmiFgKM_lr8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGPYCpWeJNs

But it looks like that Hitchcocks have a kit where you dont need to totaly dump the ECU and can keep the magneto.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/core/media/media.nl?id=141898&c=1062795&h=a6fb4e6f42b1bd888c44&_xt=.pdf

[Bullet Whisperer]

If you are working with an EFI bike you need a special set of skills and tools: You need to know how to read and understand a workshop manual, a workshop manual, an obd scanner, a multimeter, the ability to read voltage and resistance. And know the difference between the red and the black wire and how to unplug an plug water resistant connectors. If its an EFI related problem, the EFI tells you exactly what is wrong most of the time. In plain english, if you read out the faultcodes with an OBD scanner.

The OBD scanner and a multimeter are for sale, the rest is a kind of education that every 10 year old can achieve. If you are in doubt of a sensor and not the brightest one there is still the way of the layman: Change it with another sensor and look if the error is still there. Nothing too complicated for a workshop. You can even take it from another bike and switch it back later. Just a thing of minutes for each sensor.

I can just about tell the difference between a red wire and a black one, but after that I lose interest. I am not into replacing components, presumably at some cost each time, just to eliminate them and hope it fixes a problem [which, of course EFI systems never have]. Sounds like a lot of unnecessary b***ering about to me, I will stick with carburettors, screwdrivers, spanners and knowing how to apply them.
 B.W.

[viczena]

For me it is 500 Bucks for the special tools necessary to  fix the Royal Enfield. Beside the normal workshop tools.

[Adrian II]

What options exist for replacing the ECU based ignition system?  Can the existing crankshaft position sensor serve as a pickup coil for an aftermarket electronic ignition?  Somebody talked about a stator change?  To AVL parts?[p/quote]

Hitchcocks' early carb conversions for the EFI Bullets did use the AVL alternator rotor and TCI ignition. I think they worked out it was cheaper to adapt the bike's existing set-up after a while. If you wanted to follow that route, RE India carried on making carburetor-fitted UCE Bullets with TCI ignition until quite recently for the home market, so spares for these from India should be around for a few years yet. Or could an EFI alternator stator be rewound, with a couple of the cores having CDI charging coils?

A.

[ace.cafe]

Tempest in a teapot.

The biggest difference is in the happiness of the user. Pick what you like.

[JD]

Tempest in a teapot.

The biggest difference is in the happiness of the user. Pick what you like.

Agree.  It's obvious that this has become an emotional rather than a rational discussion.  When emotions get engaged, facts don't matter.  I suggest it's time to stop trying to teach a pig to sing.  It's a total waste of time and really annoys the pig.

JD

[sagefilio]

Hello!

Yeah y'all really go wild, I'm just trying to show others my process for mounting this mikuni carb kit I picked up from hitchcocks.

That being said, I've hit kind of a snag. It seems that the cable they supplied with the kit is too short. I'm having my moto mechanic friend come over to confirm this.

Stock VM32s need about 85mm of cable outside of housing to function, according to mikunioz. I think this is on a single pull throttle setup without buttons etc, but I could be wrong. The cable they supplied came with roughly 100mm of cable outside the housing, shown here:


When installed on the carb this only leaves about 10mm of cable to attach to the throttle:


As we know, the stock setup for the throttle body is a push/pull setup built into the right hand controls. I'm trying to keep my controls stock, as they work fine. You can really use either hole, but each one I try puts too much tension on the cable and raises the slide. To clarify, all of the cable fittings on both the carb and cable itself are totally tight. It has as much open cable as can be had. Here are the holes I'm talking about:



I've played with the routing and there doesn't seem to be any pulling on the housing the way I currently have it routed. Granted I'm sure there's the normal amount of pull going from full lock. As it stands I'm talking with Hitchcocks about it, but it seems like this is indeed the length they send out with the kits, there wasn't a mess-up there. I'm just not entirely sure they mounted it to the stock throttle tube. I also know these mikunis are somewhat new for them, as previously they offered amal carb conversions. I also noticed the carb they sent is somewhat different than the one pictured, mainly because the choke lever is swapped.

Any thoughts here? am I missing something dumb? If they can't get me a cable that fits I'll just make one, but soldering is a pain.

[AzCal Retred]

Sagefilio: The twistgrip rotor ( PART No. 581098 ; TWISTGRIP ROTOR, C/W RUBBER, RH. ) has two stops built in to limit rotation open & closed. You can adjust the polyethylene rotor travel in the closed direction by removing material. You can also drill your own hole closer to the stop. Worst case you buy a new rotor for about $14. I've had to modify these even on my old Bullet, so there's nothing new here. Moving the hole and/or filing away the stop will give you a bit more closed travel, effectively adding inner wire length. You need the stop to prevent overtravel and cable kinking if you manually close the throttle hard. I had to add a #10 screw to create a closed stop, then fine tune the rotor with a file to get proper slide closing. It's a trick...

I would pull the throttle cable free where I could see all of it and then fiddle with the cable travel. That way you know it works on the bench, as it were. Just set the carb on a box near the throttle & hook it up, you want to see & hear the slide snap home.   

[viczena]

I can just about tell the difference between a red wire and a black one, but after that I lose interest. I am not into replacing components, presumably at some cost each time, just to eliminate them and hope it fixes a problem [which, of course EFI systems never have]. Sounds like a lot of unnecessary b***ering about to me, I will stick with carburettors, screwdrivers, spanners and knowing how to apply them.
 B.W.

That is just the layman version. The 10 year old, who understands simple elctronics, will not need it.

[axman88]

So far I have only seen complete carb swaps that also include the removal of the magneto as well as the ECU.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RNdSTEhRwY&t=761s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmiFgKM_lr8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGPYCpWeJNs

Hitchcocks' early carb conversions for the EFI Bullets did use the AVL alternator rotor and TCI ignition. I think they worked out it was cheaper to adapt the bike's existing set-up after a while. If you wanted to follow that route, RE India carried on making carburetor-fitted UCE Bullets with TCI ignition until quite recently for the home market, so spares for these from India should be around for a few years yet. Or could an EFI alternator stator be rewound, with a couple of the cores having CDI charging coils?
A.

Thanks guys!  Wonderful. Excellent info.  The young man in the video is showing many part numbers for replacement parts.  He appears to be replacing the multi-node EFI rotor with the earlier single node rotor, and even changes the wire harness to clear away the unused connector.  This shows the way I'd envision switching from EFI to carb., clearing away the ECU and unused sensors and connectors, replacing stator and rotor with
 single pulsar type, use ignition module compatible with the crankshaft trigger, replace MIL with ampmeter, replace EFI tank with the earlier tank with petcock, and drill and tap the exhaust sensor port to take a wide band O2 for tuning.  Appears that these guys even retain the original air box, which also appeals to me.

Is this an aftermarket TCI ignition being installed at this point?  https://youtu.be/UmiFgKM_lr8?t=874   

I wish I could understand Hindi!

[manxmike]

Personally I like the efi on my 2018 Bullet.
When I had Triumphs back in the 60s and 70s they had amal carbs. Earlier models had the monoblock version which was a pain, later bikes had the concentric which was so easy to work on and even easier to tune. My various Bonnevilles had twin concentrics which could be balanced by disconnecting one, checking tick over speed, then doing the same with the other carb - basic but it worked!
I even looked at replacing the single monoblock on a 500 Speed Twin with a Wal Philips fuel injector - so glad I didn't, I later read that the injector never worked properly.
Upshot is I will stick with the efi until I replace the bike with the 650 twin or the 535.

[dickim]

Jeez this OLD walnut brings out the Pontificating (and false statements) so +1 to those posting that it's YOUR choice with YOUR money and -1for those telling you what to do! Personally I want the disc brake and efi  on my 2014 C5, but my 56 MGA has drums brakes, carbs and a dynamo, would I change any of them NO WAY! but restoring a big Healey, Yes on disc conversion (safety), Yes on alternator (marginal on starting unless battery FULL), No on efi conversion..... Replacement fuel pump does not NEED to be expensive, never had an injector fail, but same with carbs, so, Guy's YOUR MONEY YOUR CHOICE

[sagefilio]

Sagefilio: The twistgrip rotor ( PART No. 581098 ; TWISTGRIP ROTOR, C/W RUBBER, RH. ) has two stops built in to limit rotation open & closed. You can adjust the polyethylene rotor travel in the closed direction by removing material. You can also drill your own hole closer to the stop. Worst case you buy a new rotor for about $14. I've had to modify these even on my old Bullet, so there's nothing new here. Moving the hole and/or filing away the stop will give you a bit more closed travel, effectively adding inner wire length. You need the stop to prevent overtravel and cable kinking if you manually close the throttle hard. I had to add a #10 screw to create a closed stop, then fine tune the rotor with a file to get proper slide closing. It's a trick...

I would pull the throttle cable free where I could see all of it and then fiddle with the cable travel. That way you know it works on the bench, as it were. Just set the carb on a box near the throttle & hook it up, you want to see & hear the slide snap home.

Yeah, I'm imagining I'll have to either do what you suggest with the twist grip rotor (we call those throttle tubes in the states) or replace the cable with something longer and custom made (soldering... fun). Just a shame that they don't supply the proper cable for their kit is all. You'd think others would have complained about this, but I'm guessing these aren't flying off the shelves so to speak.

[AzCal Retred]

Sagefilio - Trickier but doable is work an end cap off of the cable and CAREFULLY cut back some of the cable housing wire coils. A pair of good nippers and a Dremel with suitable grinders should do the trick. That's contingent on the entire cable being long enough, of course...