[olhogrider]

my experience so far with the highly expensive silkolene oil change

https://youtu.be/WiCU7h1BalE?list=TLPQMTgwMTIwMjDYiwXSkS1SCQ

Another great video! We don't have Penrite oil here but I'm sure any name brand synthetic or semi-synthetic will do just fine. I'm impressed by the absence of metal in the old oil. Let us know if the change made any difference in shifting or other performance of the bike. BTW, I noticed you have the stock exhaust. Mine seems to be getting a little louder as I have it.

[Breezin]

BTW, I noticed you have the stock exhaust. Mine seems to be getting a little louder as I have it.

Likewise!

[wildbill]

well I got this youtube question so I had to find out...lol

Does the slipper clutch not require fully synthetic oil? Pretty sure RE spec says so.

Warro

16 minutes ago

interesting question. I think its more on what's in the oil.
to date I have run the bike 250kl or 150 miles since I uploaded the clip.



so far bike is changing gears well/clutch change is fine/no sign of slipping/positive changes/no false neutrals hit from 5th to 6th.
at the moment -all appears fine.

my exhaust is stock and I now prefer to ride with all stock parts and no added bolt ons. I too think its louder especially on throttle back off in lower gears especially 3rd.

[GlennF]

Motorcycle clutches in general (Guzzis are the exception I think) do not like "friction modified" additives.

As for slipper clutches, there were stories around that you should NOT use synthetic oil in a slipper but I do not think there was any factual basis to them.

[wildbill]

booster plug on very steep top gear pull  after completing the last 300 klm of my journey

https://youtu.be/wuEtXHJd668

[twocoolgliders]

Hey Bill


Nice video..I like your comments, I listened carefully.  You say some interesting and honest things.  Like the bike runs pretty well in pure stock form to start with ....or after you make a change, you tend to get used to it, so it feels the norm....etc...


Just to beat the hornet's nest with a stick a bit: 

IF you read the manual from booster plug....It states that the booster plug is not "effective" during closed loop operation.  That is, during closed loop operation, the o2 sensor is doing the "final" judgement on Fuel Air mixture ratio...in effect overpowering the booster plug. (the booster plug enriches the mixture only during open loop operation.)


Open loop operation happens, typically during start, warm up, idle, acceleration, and deceleration.  These are the time you don't want to be too lean...so booster plug may be helpful in keeping the fuel on the rich side.

Close loop operation happens during steady state...like steady speed, steady RPM, steady throttle position.

Sooooo

During a long steady climb....the air fuel mixture is determined by the "stock" o2 sensor, not the booster plug.


Just sayin'

I've watched some videos of PCV install and testing on the road....the guy ran a baseline test, with the bike stock, ran in 3rd gear....3000 rpm....then WOT...up to 14,000.  Timed it.

Same test, but with slip on exhaust and PCV with a pre-packaged map for that set up.  Ran the same test, same road etc.

Got from 3000 to 14,000 in 0.9 seconds quicker...substantial improvement?  More scientific test?

Of course a true scientific test would make many, many runs, and graph them, or average them together, to eliminate outliers, etc.





Cookie

booster plug on very steep top gear pull  after completing the last 300 klm of my journey

https://youtu.be/wuEtXHJd668

[wildbill]

I am pretty happy with the bike totally stock and shortly I will sell the booster plug and dna filter I tested. I really have no use for them
the cash I get for them will be donated to the KOALA HOSPITAL in AUSTRALIA plus some other C5 stuff I will sell over my youtube channel too
I think the few $$ raised is better spent in the direction of the injured and homeless animals here than my crap.
just in case you think I have to sell stuff to make a donation-not the case. I've already donated to them twice and now I plan to get more serious.

[twocoolgliders]

Nice! (the donation stuff)


So you think the booster plug is not really necessary for this bike?

Cookie

I am pretty happy with the bike totally stock and shortly I will sell the booster plug and dna filter I tested. I really have no use for them
the cash I get for them will be donated to the KOALA HOSPITAL in AUSTRALIA plus some other C5 stuff I will sell over my youtube channel too
I think the few $$ raised is better spent in the direction of the injured and homeless animals here than my crap.
just in case you think I have to sell stuff to make a donation-not the case. I've already donated to them twice and now I plan to get more serious.

[wildbill]

it makes the bike much smoother in the run cycle so it does help a lot in that area BUT overall the 650 is a pretty good bike to ride anyway. if you have never rode with the plug you sort of -will never miss it.
what would be very interesting and I mean interesting-the C5 had very lousy jerky fueling-they make a booster plug for the C5
if I had a C5 i'd have a booster plug on those jerk-offs for sure.
it really annoyed me how bad the fuelling was on those bikes and if you added sports exhaust it got way out of hand and at times felt like you were being shunted along like a train.
the EJK fixed that and also the power commander.
only drama the EJK is not set for euro 4 from factory or it wasn't when I had mine
this booster plug and play would be a great try on a C5
it would be something you should notice immediately if it worked or not.
now if you look at the booster plug site-you have 4 weeks to decide if you like it or not and if not return for full refund, how fair is that!

If you for any reason are not happy with the BoosterPlug you can return it for a full refund within a reasonable time. No questions asked.

 - We consider “A reasonable time”  to be around 4 weeks.
 - We are not refusing to provide a refund if a module is returned after 4 weeks and two days, but sales are considered final after approximately 4 weeks. So please don’t try to get a refund after a year or two when you sell your bike.
 - Let’s play it fair – both ways.

[wildbill]

After dumping the highly expensive Silkolene a 750 klm run with the Penrite semi-synthetic oil

https://youtu.be/MF97sVQFnss

[olhogrider]

After dumping the highly expensive Silkolene a 750 klm run with the Penrite semi-synthetic oil

https://youtu.be/MF97sVQFnss

Glad to hear the cheaper oil is working well for you!

[Arizoni]

When all is said and done, almost all of the major brands of oil works just as good or better than the super duper oils high priced oils offered by the small companies.

The full synthetic oils are basically the same and the only difference is the additives the company's add to the oil.

IMO, these people who spend a small fortune buying the "special" oils from small companies "think" their engines are running better so they brag about all of the wonderful things the oil is doing.
To this I say," BS.  Save the money and change your oil more often."   

[wildbill]

done 1000 klm since the  oil change to the cheaper semi-synthetic brand and -no false neutrals 

[wildbill]

stock standard 0 to 100 kph or roughly 0 to 62 mph burst in 6.95 seconds

https://youtu.be/ueY4zyktriY

[wildbill]

ebay purchase - continental gt touring seat and tall flyscreen fit -total price AU265 or roughly US180 including free postage and an oil filter thrown in on the deal
both good items too

https://youtu.be/ahtKiP7bt90