Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet Electra & AVL => Topic started by: PaulF on June 12, 2008, 12:56:20 pm
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For the AVL guys who have adjusted your primary drive chains, where did you get the gasket?
I can only find the iron head O-ring type gasket in the online store and the inner gasket for mating to the engine case. I can't find an AVL outer chaincase gasket anywhere.
Did I miss it?
Thanks all.
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I haven't replaced the gastket. Just re-use it. If you're careful, you shouldn't have a problem. I do wish that it came with the o-ring system like the old ones. It would be easier to mess with.
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Thanks. I found it after further searching. It's under Tune Up and Maintenance, Primary Service Kit, (specify AVL).
I agree. The iron head design is beautiful. One bolt and no paper gasket.
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I agree. The iron head design is beautiful. One bolt and no paper gasket.
I'm feel certain that was a cost cutting move. No groove need be cut.
Paul, how did you get the primary case off? I was going to take the case off when I changed the oil, but could only get out a small amount. It seemed that there were wires attached. At least it appeared that way. I could see a wire and when gently pulling the case off the wire seemed to stretch, actually tightened up a little. So I differed the chore until later rather than force it and break a wire. :-\
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I agree. The iron head design is beautiful. One bolt and no paper gasket.
I'm feel certain that was a cost cutting move. No groove need be cut.
Paul, how did you get the primary case off? I was going to take the case off when I changed the oil, but could only get out a small amount. It seemed that there were wires attached. At least it appeared that way. I could see a wire and when gently pulling the case off the wire seemed to stretch, actually tightened up a little. So I differed the chore until later rather than force it and break a wire. :-\
I haven't done it yet. I'm just accumulating parts for the first service, (the gasket is on back-order by the way). Funny thing. I don't know if it's because its a 2008, but I have a neat little drain plug on the primary case near the shift lever. Great idea for keeping the mess at a minimum, but I havent seen it on any other RE until now. Might be a new feature. Anyway, I'll need the gasket as I have to adjust the chain.
I thought I read somewhere, maybe Snidal's, to be careful of wires connected to the case cover coming from the alternator. The more expert guys could answer this, but it should pop right off. I dont believe there is a ground wire inside the case which would prevent it from being removed. I'm here at work and don't have my Snidals,s CD loaded to this PC, but I'll check tonight unless someone beats me to it.
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That little plug is for checking the oil level. It should just drip out.
Sorry for the confusion. I thought you had done it. Maybe someone will jump to our aid.
Thanks
Phil
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It's a level plug? That's what I get for not reading enough.
And I thought draining would be a snap.
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That is a level plug, however it is for the old spec of 420cc in the kick start bike. Put the bike on the side stand (get one if you need it) and remove the plug. For regular servicing drain out as much as you can, then refill with a full liter of 20W50. This will help minimize starter clutch problems.
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PhilJ,
Follow the wires from the primary case joint to the connectors (2) up under the air box. Unplug these and then the wires will come off with the outer case. I think most of the resistance you feel is from the shift shaft seal in the case. The wires are coming from the alternator stator and the ignition pickup, both are mounted on the case.
Jim
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Thanks Jim. That's very clear, unlike the manual. :(
Vince, that's over twice the recommended amount for the primary. Can you explain a little further?
Thanks
Phil
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The starter clutch is above the oil level in the case. A lot of the failures I experienced were seemingly due to seizure of the clutch bearing. The factory changed the spec to 840cc- double the original spec. I started putting in the rest of the liter and I had less starter clutch failures. It has had no effect on the regular clutch itself. The extra oil also seem to dampen kick bake- another cause of failure. The extra oil does NOT eliminate the problem, but the improvement in longevity has note worthy.
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Thanks Vince, an explanation like that makes it very understandable. I will up my allotment of oil to the primary, once the paperwork goes through. ;D
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Paul, how did you get the primary case off? I was going to take the case off when I changed the oil, but could only get out a small amount. It seemed that there were wires attached. At least it appeared that way. I could see a wire and when gently pulling the case off the wire seemed to stretch, actually tightened up a little. So I differed the chore until later rather than force it and break a wire. :-\
I never disconnected mine. I used a bungee net I use on the back of the bike to suspend the cover out of the way while I drained the primary and adjusted the primary chain. When done I just unhooked the net and lowered the cover back into place.
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That's a good idea. What did you suspend it from, the bars?
More importantly, I'm curious to know if your chain needed adjustment and how much. I'm kinda surprised that a multi-row chain on a roughly 30 HP motor would stretch enough after 300-500 miles to need to be tightened up.
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That's a good idea. What did you suspend it from, the bars?
More importantly, I'm curious to know if your chain needed adjustment and how much. I'm kinda surprised that a multi-row chain on a roughly 30 HP motor would stretch enough after 300-500 miles to need to be tightened up.
I think I hung the front from whatever you call that hose coming out of the head and the rear from the seat rail. I was surprised at how loose the chain was too. I probably should have checked more of the initial setup after that.
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My gasket came in the 10,000 mile service kit I purchased from CMW, all my service data has recommends 420ml for clutch oil, also when checking the level though the lower plug the factory level is right at the lower plug, a red looking oil.
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My gasket came in the 10,000 mile service kit I purchased from CMW, all my service data has recommends 420ml for clutch oil, also when checking the level though the lower plug the factory level is right at the lower plug, a red looking oil.
Mine says 420ml also but I've been told that it is wise to overfill a little. Did Vince say 840ml? As for the red looking oil, do you know if your dealer is using ATF? I just got mine back after a clutch issue and the repair order states "420ml Morris Oil", just wondering if I should add more.
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I believe Vince stated 840ml or 1 liter of 20w- 50. I'm not sure what's in primary, it looks like red,ATF. I will be doing the 300 mile service , I'm still not 100% sure what to put in, I know some older threads have talked about this. According to my owners manual I should be Okay using Wal-mart oil as long as it is API -SG.My town has only a Suzuki/Ford dealer and a Yamaha/tire shop so I may buy some Suzuki lube.
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This is getting confusing. So what's the concensus?
Owner's manual states oil, but ATF comes from the factory in the primary?
ATF to benefit the clutch or oil to benefit the starter drive?
Should I go with the 420ml, 840 or maybe play it safe and add about 600ml?
???
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Look at my June 12 answer, page 1 of this discussion. Atf is for your car.
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Then I'm going with a litre of 20-50. (gonna use Honda motorcycle oil because the dealer is right on the way to work).
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Does bumping the kick starter though a few times before riding, help with clutch problems?