Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet Iron Barrel => Topic started by: RBHoge on July 04, 2010, 09:06:46 pm
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If there is anything about my 2008 Iron Jug Bullet Deluxe that might be considered a disappointment, it would have to be the headlight. ??? At low rpms it is dim. at cruise it is adequate, ON LOW BEAM. ;) High beam is worthless. :'( When the bike was brand new I changed out the dinky 5 1/2 inch sealed beam OEM light for a 7 inch halogen kit from CMW. The 5 1/2 was about as bright as a match in the wind. >:( The 7 incher can not be aimed, so the "High Beam" goes too high and completely off the road. ::)
I want to add some "driving lights" (mounted to the engine guard) but I doubt that the stock alternator will handle the load. :o The CMW catalogue shows higher output alternators for the Kick start models, but none for the ES. :P Does anybody have a viable suggestion?
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The SPX003 is the alternator kit I put in my Bullet.
http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatalog/Alternators.html
Check out the test results for the output of this alternator when compared to a standard unit.
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are you lads in the USA using the AC/DC settup with an altenator with 4 wires , or are you just on DC with a 2/3 wire jobby?
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yes there are options... I mounted an after market driving light and wired it thru the
bright circuit. It throws a lot better beam than my 5 1/2" did. Brother Bong
in S. Korea also mounted a set of driving lights... I don't think the alt. would handle
them at idle but how much do we idle any way?
- Mike
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Switching the remainder of lights to LED allows more juice for the headlight. I believe I saw significant improvement when I did it.
-Rick
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i plan to re-wire the entire thing with at least some 12 ga and better connectors and the resistance coefficient should change. if it doesn't make that big a difference with current flow, then spend the dough on high out alt.
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i plan to re-wire the entire thing with at least some 12 ga and better connectors and the resistance coefficient should change. if it doesn't make that big a difference with current flow, then spend the dough on high out alt.
Read this wiring article from Pete Snidal before you wire.
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/snwvlly/bikes/negwire.htm
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Read this wiring article from Pete Snidal before you wire.
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/snwvlly/bikes/negwire.htm
***i add this after a little cyphering***
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER just pull wires out, as suggested in the article. this comes from many years of high-tech electronic work. i would suggest marking the device's polarity, at least, via schematic or circuit tracing and label wiring, if necessary, before cutting wires. a benchmark, or safety net in this case, may be beneficial.
however, a good read. that's kinda what i'm thinking. there are no inspections in this state so i'm considering letting the blinkers go bye-bye. i already use hand signals.
it would be a consideration to wire the blinkers up as running lights, though. i've thought maybe some leds in the front blinkers, mounted to the frame with some bouncy/springy bushings so they appear to 'flicker' at oncoming traffic.
i keep the headlight on hi beam ALWAYS, so i thought i would do like the article says and wire the oem control to simply turn the headlight on and off for starting.
i am considering a good heatsink and a single rectifier and mounting up with the horn to receive good airflow.
thanks for the link, it's a good'ern
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The SPX003 is the alternator kit I put in my Bullet.
http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatalog/Alternators.html
Check out the test results for the output of this alternator when compared to a standard unit.
Which regulator/rectifier you used with your sparx 3 phase stator ? if possible please post some picture.
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Electronic flasher, l.e.d.'s and Bosch pn# 0 301 600 118 ;)
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My G5 had a terrible headlight, so I ended up running a hot wire from the battery through a couple of relays and directly to the headlight. The wires from the dimmer switch controlled the relays. Worked great!
Bare