[AmBraCol]

It's not my reflexes that are at issue , it's the everyone else on the road issue 

Ahh, POR-15, I've never used it but heard of it. I'm not sure where, either on here, or some vehicle restoration website/tv programme for the paint I think.

From the website https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-fuel-car-bike-motorcycle-tank-repair-sealer-236ml/ it can be used with fuels containing ethanol.

8oz should do you if you get this particular product I think.

3 sizes available:

– 8oz (236ml) will seal a 4-1/2 US Gallon tank (17 litres, 3-3/4 UK gallons)

– US Pint (473ml) will seal a 9 US Gallon tank (34 litres, 7-1/2 UK gallons)

– US Quart (946ml) will seal a 18 US Gallon tank (68 litres, 15 UK gallons)

Thanks!  After doing more research and checking what options are available here, opted for the KBS tank seal kit as it comes complete.  No one I could locate down here brings in the POR kit with the chemicals they recommend for prep. The KBS kit does.  It runs about twice what retail is up in the US, but seems to be well thought of, at least on the pages/videos I found.

We've got bikes of all sizes on the road here, and at all speeds and they are predominant at certain times of day, so folks are used to seeing them, unlike many places where they are a "fair weather event" almost exclusively.  Even so, watching out for the other guy is DEFINITELY a major part of riding. My wife's been in two accidents so far on her bike, both minor for which I'm thankful.  Both were the other person's fault. 

[Ove]

I may be wrong, but I thought the tank sealant products are to line the tank and protect from ethanol and against further rusting, rather than seal splits. Something you'd use after you've dealt with the leak. I've not used them, so I could easily be wrong, but I'd check first.

[AmBraCol]

I may be wrong, but I thought the tank sealant products are to line the tank and protect from ethanol and against further rusting, rather than seal splits. Something you'd use after you've dealt with the leak. I've not used them, so I could easily be wrong, but I'd check first.

Good point. They CLAIM they'll fill pinholes and such, but of course the best is to patch THEN seal... I'm just not sure if it's a rust out problem or if it's a bad welding job at the factory that finally gave up.  The inside of the tank doesn't look that bad so I suspect that it's a bad welding job that finally broke loose.

[johno]

I have finally got the Bullet out from storage, she's in pretty good condition and just needed a clean and surface rust removal. I found out why the front brake sticks, the two slider pins are not parallel. I did a bit of fettling and managed to get the caliper to slide smoothly. All pivots and cables were oiled, chain cleaned then waxed and with the tyre pressures correct took her for the MOT test today. Rode the long way round to get the engine warm, apart from a slight tappet noise the bike is in fine fettle. The good news is that the bike passed the test with no advisories and is safe to ride for another year. As I have sold one of my other bikes, the Bullet will get a lot more miles under her wheels over the next 12 months.

[AmBraCol]

Things have been too busy around here, haven't had a chance to really work on the Rumbler.  So today I pulled the battery and put it to charge.  I'd already pulled the tank apart (removed pump/fuel filter, gas cap and fuel level sending unit) so tossed it into the car and drove up to the RE dealer.  They recommended a certain radiator shop, but gave bad directions. Didn't find it where they told me, but used my knowledge of that sector to drive up another street and there it was.  Wouldn't even look at it without the pump and sending unit, I'd figured they'd whap some rubber across it or something and test it.  I was wrong.  So tomorrow first thing it's back up there with the tank.  He did say they'd probably charge me about $12-13 US (depending on exchange rate) to solder it.  Once we get it gas tight I'll take it in for a repainting and some more TLC, she's about due for some, especially after having sat around the past couple of years with little to do. Am looking at the Meteor turn signals or maybe some black Classic turn signals to get rid of some of that chrome that bugs me.

[Silverback]

i installed a cheapy radio on the bike.  no Bueno.  going back. 
i also install triangle petes fin.   it does give the bike a pep in its step.  not by much but you can feel it in the seat of your pants.
I took it out for a test run.  forgot to tighten the tank nuts and of course they rattled off.  Walk of shame!!!!   lol.

i also replaced the dash lights with the LED b9 bulbs nice.   i am going to replace the gauge back ight to green or blue to make it easier on the eyes at night.

Had a recommendation of a LED replacement. unfortunately it pressed p against the speedo.  I had already fixed stok light from doing that.

Man that light is nice.  i am going to keep it to install when i get the avon fairing.  Yes it will make the bike look goofy but i think it will make riding here in the Southwest desert winters pleasurable.   Plus when it gets up to 100 fahrenheit it will keep me from felling like i am being cooked during the summer.

[AzCal Retred]

I rode from Needles California to Kingman Arizona in August, up in the AM about 9 and back about 3PM. Where my jacket rode up and my gloves ended I peeled off tow "wristlets" of skin...but I was a bit smarter and bought some gauntlet style gloves! 

Fairings work great on the open road, in town they tend to bake you at stoplights. Their use depends largely on where your riding mostly takes place. Better Tucson that Phoenix!    Phoenix gets hot & stays hot, even at night.

[AmBraCol]

While the Rumbler's tank was being soldered at the radiator repair shop I stopped by the local RE dealer and took a test ride on the Meteor 350.  It came in shortly before I traveled back in May and hadn't had a chance to stop by, helmet in hand, to ride after my return.  Took it for a good workout heading south out of town almost to the toll booth and then back, about 40 KM round trip, part two lane congested, part four lane divided with more traffic than usual, small part in town, reasonable traffic load.  So I got to put her through her paces. Won't be trading the Rumbler 500 in on one, but can definitely tell certain folks, "Give it a close look."  Pretty decent bike for what it is.  The dealer's sure they'll be coming out with a similar bike but sporting a 650 twin engine in the not too distant future.  Time will tell.

[Silverback]

I rode from Needles California to Kingman Arizona in August, up in the AM about 9 and back about 3PM. Where my jacket rode up and my gloves ended I peeled off tow "wristlets" of skin...but I was a bit smarter and bought some gauntlet style gloves! 

Fairings work great on the open road, in town they tend to bake you at stoplights. Their use depends largely on where your riding mostly takes place. Better Tucson that Phoenix!    Phoenix gets hot & stays hot, even at night.

i lived in  2 years in phoenix and Yuma 1 year.  Those are other worldly kinds of hot.
el paso not as bad as that.

[Silverback]

i have been driving this classic for a couple of months learning as much can about the bike.  I am by no means super knowledgeable  as verified by some of my questions.

anyway the bike had a kind of a fast idle.   I figured that was the norm and really dnt pay attention to it.  i am from the the vintage BMW word where idle at 900 rpms is kind of standard.

Anyway i ran across and idle adjustment video on the YouTube and hey adjusted to the 900 to 1000 rpm range. 

Now i can get behind that.


I also put the engine guard back on .  when i got up to about 60 pmh i started to get wobble again.  i guess i will have to play with tire inflation to find sweet spot again.

i put the guard back on for two reasons.  one to have protection for bike and my legs just in case.  two ifi get the Avon fairing the the engine guard makes a nice attachment point for some make shift leg farings.

So i adjusted my idle down to what my ears told me was good.  I am sure i am close.

anyway its a whole new riding experience.   the engine doesn't seem to be working hard at all.  when i  down shift or engine brake  it is much smoother.

the engine seems to be running much cooler as well.

I don't know what the previous owners intentions were by jacking the idle up.  l the bike is much happier now.

I am glad i ran across that video.

tomorrow i will adjust the throttle position sensor just to be sure its in its correct position.

[Richard230]

I have never touched the idle adjustment of my 2011 Bullet. According to the digital tachometer that I installed on my bike it idles at between 1100-1200 rpm when fully warm. BTW, I see 3900 rpm at an actual 60 mph.

[AzCal Retred]

Silverback - I get a charge out of the slow idle possible from these long stroke, heavy flywheel engines too. In India it's apparently a badge of honor. As long as it's not stalling at stoplights you're all good. But that's what the "electric leg" is for, right? 

[Ove]

I have never touched the idle adjustment of my 2011 Bullet. According to the digital tachometer that I installed on my bike it idles at between 1100-1200 rpm when fully warm. BTW, I see 3900 rpm at an actual 60 mph.

That's useful, so about 5,500 at 70mph. I got mine up to over 80mph indicated, about 6500 to 7000rpm. That is a bit much for our single, I'd say. Which front / rear sprockets do you have?

[Richard230]

That's useful, so about 5,500 at 70mph. I got mine up to over 80mph indicated, about 6500 to 7000rpm. That is a bit much for our single, I'd say. Which front / rear sprockets do you have?

If I counted correctly, I have a 38-tooth rear sprocket. So it would be whatever was installed at the factory, which should be a 17-tooth front sprocket. (Apparently, I am not very good at counting teeth on rear sprockets.    )

[Ove]

OK, thanks.