Author Topic: A "Rockers" GT535  (Read 6884 times)

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StreetKleaver

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on: March 31, 2024, 05:10:58 am
Hello all again. Since My cloud storage took a dump literally, I'll start my build thread again in chronological order.
I perform 99% of all my work at home. This is my hobby. Also being a dual tradesman has its advantages. Boilermaker and Fitter - Machinist, which is my day job.

Whilst most of the talk on forums and social media groups is pure speculation without real world testing. "I read this on the internet therefore I'm right and you are doing it wrong" type bollocks.
I do my best to share my real world experience and learnings. Despite the "tools" and nay sayers that google too much and copy and paste.

My goal with bike is to "unlock" it's 1960s style more so and make it actually perform and handle well.
We all know these things are turtles out of the box with it's 19 to 20 horsepower at the rear wheel. Which makes it's 1960s 250cc counterpart probably a better goer!
Why the stock trim will suit some, I wanted to put my effort in to it. Because I have the skills, resources and passion to do so.

Because I will and F*#KING CAN!  ;)

So, on with it!
Here it is as I purchased it.
2014 Euro 3 Australian GT535

Bog stock with a AEW short reverse megaphone silencer.





First impressions it handle nice, went nice. Everything was nice. Not exciting. Just nice.
The lack of adjustment with the rear brake pedal was annoying having to lift my foot off the peg to brake.

Handlebar position didn't feel comfortable either (being 6ft and 80kgs). Even though it has clip ons, the bar position resembles more of a "sit and beg" position similar to a Bullet compared to anything racey having my head stuck high in the clouds.

But man that AEW silencer was loud. Earplugs was mandatory even on short rides.

Top speed was 130km/hr and refused to rev anymore. Would get to 4500rpm, which felt like it was going to shake itself to bits and just hang there and not pull anymore. That's all she had. Something that I will improve.
59 Club UK/Australia
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #1 on: March 31, 2024, 05:19:45 am
I rode it it stock trim for a while. Polished some stuff and some general maintenance.
The bike had been washing with some nasty industrial grade alkaline wash of sorts we would use in the railway industry. Cases were stained and the pipe heavily corroded and started to rust. So I decided to wrap the header for now since it was a eye-sore.

 

The rear tyre was heavily worn. My first and last mistake with tyres was choosing fashion over function.
Fitted a Shinko E270 4.00x18. Never again.
The thing would wobble around on the sawtooth pattern around corners. When tipping in a higher lean angle the bike would feel like it was going to "fall over" once you reach the corner of the tyre shoulder.
NEVER AGAIN.

And people mount this very "REAR " tyre on the front and rear. A ocean liner would handle better.
They must spend most of their time parked or riding in straight lines...  ;D



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StreetKleaver

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Reply #2 on: March 31, 2024, 05:34:02 am
Power Commander V arrived from Hitchcocks with their "venturi" intake plate and DNA filter with appropriate tune uploaded.







In this state of tune, this is mainly where the average punter would take it. Weather they call it stage 1 or whatever. Intake and Exhaust free flowing with a tune to support it. While it did go a lot better mainly in the lower end, top speed was still not far off in stock trim of 130-140km/hr.

I rode it in this state of tune for about 6 months. No issues at all.
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #3 on: March 31, 2024, 05:59:44 am
In this episode I fitted the Hitchcocks Handlebar riser kit along with a set of 7/8 Clubman bars. The riding position was a lot more agressive. But seeing the clamps are so close to the center the vibration was pretty bad since the bars had so much "green" to flex and vibrate.

** Take note of the bulky tail end.**



They don't even register on the bar knurling. A bit of a oversight I think.



Since I can't help myself. I shortened the rear hoop by 30mm. Which seemed at the time, measuring and faffing about was the right in proportion amount.

There are Indian made kits which shorten the buggery out of them, So the rear hoop sits neat under the rear cowl. That  in my opinion is way too short. But fine if you like water up your back on a raining day.

The able/catch bracket had to be cut off and welded along with adding 2 new angle brackets to hold the rear guard since the rear plate assembly doesn't fasten it anymore.

Here's the process in photo form.





Fabbed up a little tapping plate for the rear number plate to be mounted on.
(Yes That's TIG welded because I'm a trade boilermaker. Not a 2nd class welder with a ticket  ;D)



All TIG welded up.
Rear guard marked out/scribed so it sits neat inside the hoop.



Folded up a nice stainless plate holder.



Bit of Filler Primer and sanded back. ready for paint.



Other bits etch primed. With new little indicator brackets that mount either side of the hoop using the existing M8 bungs welded in (for the luggage rack etc)



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StreetKleaver

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Reply #4 on: March 31, 2024, 06:03:58 am
The finished Product.



The keen eye will see the 2 new brackets holding the rear guard each side of the locating hole for the rear seat.



Much Better and less bulky.





Woo. LED tailight Bulb.  :P



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StreetKleaver

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Reply #5 on: March 31, 2024, 06:15:34 am
When you look at what you have before googling the next product to buy. Sometimes the answer is right there in front of you.

Lets tackle this. I didn't like how narrow and far forward the Hitchocks riser clamp kit is.





Somewhere in the process I made those little bar end mirror stems that a drilled and tapped into the stock bar end weights.

This picture shows where the bars are positioned.



Ideally I want them around here somewhere. Lets see what we can do when stuff is flipped and moved about.



When the clamps are swapped from left to right. Not only are the riser clamps registering on the bar knurling. It shifts the bar position back to a more "typical" position on the top yoke. Only the green needs trimming off and 2 holes to be drilled and tapped.

 Which after all that looks something like this. Shown the offcut of the new trimmed position of the assemblies being swapped from left to right.

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StreetKleaver

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Reply #6 on: March 31, 2024, 06:28:37 am
The finished product. Originally I stripped the paint on the top yoke, but the lower yoke/steering stem is cast steel. So I ended up painting them both with 2 pack gloss black. Industrial grade stuff.







The forks and headlight cast brackets worked well with the paint stripper.



End result after a bit of a buff. I like the scotch bright finish as well as polish then a coat with silicone spray to stop corrosion.



Was a big productive weekend this one. Gators fitted along with checkered tape which ac tually adds at least 5hp.  ;D It's starting to look like something like mine now.

Both tyres are now Bridgestone Accolades. They're not super sticky, but not hard. They wear well, handle well and seem to be performing welll within the bikes behavoir.



Tacky silver powder coat gone and nice polished bits now!





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StreetKleaver

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Reply #7 on: March 31, 2024, 06:54:32 am
This was another case of using "what you have"
After pricing up the "ACE air kit" it came to something like $400 AU dollars once it landed at my door. So that was a big no. It was ridiculously expensive and only came with a paper filter that we would of use on the old Stromberg carburetor of a Holden 202 straight 6 push rod red motor. (Aussies and Kiwis will know ;) )

After poking about with a ruler and tape measure, I thought I have a trawl around on the K&N website so see what filter I could jam in there and make my own "Air Kit".

This is what I came up with. Cost my $80 (for the air filter) That's it. Here's the story in photo form.





Surface area lapped nice and smooth for a good seal on the filter.



JB Weld and a ring to locate the filter securley.



Hole is offset lowest possible to allow clearance for outside panel when its bolted on.



Test fit. Everything clears.





Fabbed up a neat stainless keeper plate that evenly distributes the clamping pressure on the outside of the filter.



Fitted a 120mm long velocity stack sourced locally in Australia. Unfortunately this company is no longer open now.





Next was the DIY exhaust header kit.
Started with this...



Finished with this. I kept the raw TIG welded pipe for some time.
The first 50mm is exhaust port matched. Tucked in close to the frame and all the original brackets kept.

Scored the Straight reverse megaphone from a friend and fabbed up my own free flowing baffle and packed it with fiberglass wool.



A big difference a free flowing exhaust, air filter velocity stack made!

Power characteristics after this upgrade.
Stock trim it used to lose interest after 4500rpm. Now it has a nice linear pull till about 5500rpm.
The velocity stack makes the power spread hang in there that little longer. A worth upgrade to anyone wanting more out of stock machine.
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #8 on: March 31, 2024, 07:48:31 am
Got a 2nd set of Clubmans and shortened them up to suit my ideal riding position.

Cut them, tweaked them to suit and got them re-chromed.



Fitted up.







On top of that. I got the heaviest, nastiest set of bar end weights from AlliExpress and mad some stems to mount my bar end mirrors on them. Reduced the bar vibrations substantially.
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richard211

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Reply #9 on: March 31, 2024, 09:10:43 am
Amazing blend of skills and know how, looking forward to seeing more of the build as it progresses.


GUNR

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Reply #10 on: March 31, 2024, 09:41:09 am
Is that why the photos are missing from your very informative 'the Ton' dreamer thread? I thought once things were posted, they remained on HMC's server. You've done a lot of work on your Bullet and CGT and it has been a real learning experience for us all; thanks Ben.
Riding a motorcycle is like life; it's about the journey not the destination.


StreetKleaver

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Reply #11 on: March 31, 2024, 09:49:02 am
Is that why the photos are missing from your very informative 'the Ton' dreamer thread? I thought once things were posted, they remained on HMC's server. You've done a lot of work on your Bullet and CGT and it has been a real learning experience for us all; thanks Ben.

Yes that's correct. My Google cloud storage had a dump. Literally.

Thanks Mate. I've got more coming. I haven't updated for quite a few months. I've done a lot of work since.
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Geoff Vader

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Reply #12 on: March 31, 2024, 12:50:07 pm
I wondered where that thread had gone.

Nice to get caught up again.

Like you, I do everything myself, it’s the only way I could afford it.
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #13 on: April 01, 2024, 12:14:29 am
A mate of mine is a photographer who also rides. Likes to snap unaware candid shots. Here's a few on a decent run when stopped for a gasbag, stretch, piss in the woods etc.

Check him out on Instagram @nosiman.motorcycles









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StreetKleaver

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Reply #14 on: April 14, 2024, 12:37:31 am
Head is off. As per usual the ports on this thing is very sub-par.

The inlet tract is a bit all over the place. Throttle body starts at 34mm, along the runner down to 32mm at the head entrance and opens back out just before the valve bowl. I'll clean all that up and make it a uniform 34mm.

Unshroud the valves and clean up those recessed edges around the valves.
Upon the head tear down the valves were a bit wiggly in their guides. But this engine has seen 26,000 km/s on all stock internals.
Compression test is still very good and quite high at 175psi with the standard piston.
Cylinder Barrel has been shortened by 1.5mm

The goal is not to go balls to the wall with this engine. But still strike a good level of performance and reliability as well. This bike I take on long rides. Generally 500km in a day. So I'm keeping that in mind.
So far on my bench is a full set of new upgraded premium bottom end bearings and Renolds endless chain from Hitchocks. All new seals, gaskets. New standard conrod, which I'll clean up and polish. I'll clean up and polish the rockers.

Cams of choice Hithcocks 90350 Perfomance Cams and the GT535 90247 Competition Valve kit along with the Hitchcicks Forged +10/0.25 oversize piston.

There were Cams available from America. But they were very expensive.

Here's the raw head in standard from. Black line is the outline of the head gasket to de-shroud the valves since the vertical walls aren't much help for cylinder filling. All learned tips from the Bullet Whisperer.



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StreetKleaver

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Reply #15 on: April 14, 2024, 12:48:07 am
Porting.
Nothing major or flow bench work. Just common sense stuff and not getting greedy. Just a general clean up and smooth out any lumps and bumps.

Inlet valve unshrouded and taken out near the gasket edge.



Inlet port.
Inlet is now a consistent 34mm all the way though. Before it was 32mm, 30mm in the middle back out to the 43mm valve bowl. I use a 120 grit scotch brite wheel wheel on the dremal and the a quick flick with the soft buff and metal polish. So it's still a "hairy" polished finish.



Exhaust port was 28-29ish mm and now 31mm all the way though. The squashed copper gasket left in there to act as a guide for port matching to the header. This photo is mid way through. I polished it to a mirror finish. Just helps preventing carbon from sticking.

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StreetKleaver

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Reply #16 on: April 14, 2024, 12:54:12 am
Bottom End time.

Cases split.



Every single bearing and seal has been replaced. Knowing the Indian Bearings aren't quite up to quality as European or Japanese made bearings.
All bearings upgraded with either Hitchcocks "premium" options or I've sourced them from my local bearing shop.

"Sweated" the bearings in all in one go.
Cases in the oven, bearings in the freezer. Luckily there was no mistress around to see what was cooking!

They all dropped in relatively easy. So needed a tap with a nylon mallet.




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StreetKleaver

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Reply #17 on: April 14, 2024, 01:12:04 am
Crank has been rebuilt by Serco racing here in Qld, Aus. They also did the shortening off the barrel.
Just used a OEM con rod. I have some fellow Aussies who have done similar builds to this one. Gizzo being one of them and has racked up 60,000 km's on a OEM crank. So that's good enough for me to continue to use the OEM rod.

Pictured is the original Rod. Present is bronze small end bush.
Why they moved away from that I'm not sure.
But the rod was still in good condition.



While the cases were split, I stripped the ugly silver power coast back to the raw cast aluminum. It was a huge job since that powdercoat is solidly on there!

Bottom end assembled and back in the frame.



Barrel shortened 1.5mm
Polished the fins on the linisher for visual horsepower upgrade.





Got the deck height pretty well spot on at 1mm. Checked with plasticine.
Inlet valve has 1.8mm clearance to the piston crown. I could install a thinner base gasket from 1mm to 0.5mm and bring that down to 1.3mm. But then it's only 0.5mm to the cylinder head.



Compression after its first heat cycle. 180psi. Nice and healthy.



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StreetKleaver

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Reply #18 on: April 14, 2024, 01:19:48 am


Fitted the DID 530 VX3 chain and got her out on the shakedown run tonight. Everything seems fine. No oil leaks, no weird noises.
Had to duck home and slacken the chain off a little. By the manual on the center stand calls for 20-25mm, But when seated on the bike its still a little too tight for my liking so I set it to 30mm slack.

The tune is just the Hitchcocks tune for the cams, valves and piston. But not the other work done. It seems to be fine to run it in but it will need a Dyno tune when everything is bedded.
Power wise, it feels normal, yet a little stronger than it was stock 3500rpm, Then it wants to take off like a slapped race horse!

A good tune should sort the midrange out.

It's still running a short-ish (53mm from the airbox wall) velocity stack which helped the stock cams have a little more legs after 3000rpm when they gave up. I'll order some stainless this week and fab a few different lengths up.
I feel it will need a longer stack to sort that bottom and midrange out a little more.

So far so good! Loving it!

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StreetKleaver

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Reply #19 on: April 14, 2024, 01:30:44 am
Materials arrived to make velocity stacks.
Once again like my Bullet airbox. The stack is made out of a 304 stainless steel donut. So the radius of the bellmouth is the radius of the 1 3/4 pipe.
I've been tacking them together to trial different lengths. Then once happy I'll fully weld one and dress it up.









First test was with the existing Velocity stack. But modified so its a 2 piece setup with a carburetor boot joining the two. For easier changes. This measures 100mm from the airbox wall.

Photo from the "Big Gulp" Thread.



On the test ride it did everything that Taurim had reported with his with the longer stack. Smoothed out the transition up to 3500rpm when these cams come on song. Instead of a abrupt hit. Felt like it gained a little bottom end.

Although the standard boot from the airbox to the throttle body isn't quite straight and has a bit of a off center bend to it. There was exposed edges which wouldn't help the airflow at all.



A rough diagram showing how I aim to improve the boot from the airbox to the throttle body and also how to mount the velocity stack. A 3 clamp setup. One on the throttle body, one on the airbox and one securing the pipe for the velocity stack.

Its just a silicone hose reducer. 51mmx44.5mm or 2" x 1-3/4". Works a treat. Secures the first section of the stack and the tract is aligned the best it can be. The Carburetor boot in the foreground for the 2 piece velocity stack setup.



Shows the inlet boot anbd velocity stack aligned a lot more nicer this time round. Also holds the velocity stack well in place.







« Last Edit: April 14, 2024, 01:39:30 am by StreetKleaver »
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #20 on: April 14, 2024, 01:55:10 am
Nothing little teething problems.
I caught this issue early whilst performing its first 500km service after the rebuild.

Push rod was rubbing on a sharp exposed edge of the head due the new Hitchcocks cams having bigger lift allowing the push rod to run on a slightly larger swing during its travel. Breaking it wouldn't of been much fun.

Something for others to look out for during their building/upgrades. Quick massage with a die grinder and Dremal made short work of it.



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Taurim

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Reply #21 on: April 14, 2024, 06:25:03 pm
Very nice  :)

I did now saw that problem where a pushrod was hitting something on my engine  :o


StreetKleaver

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Reply #22 on: April 15, 2024, 12:30:09 am
Very nice  :)

I did now saw that problem where a pushrod was hitting something on my engine  :o

I temporarily installed the old push rod and ordered another one from Hitchcocks and notified them. They said it's known to happen when installing bigger lift cams but not very common. The casting vary, I was lucky I guess.  :-\
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #23 on: April 15, 2024, 12:52:24 am
Next came a service and lowering the gearing by 1 tooth on the engine sprocket.
1000km's done.
17 tooth sprocket on the front, DID 530 VX3 X-ring chain.
Fresh oil and filter and everything checked and cam back lash re-set.



Lowering the front sprocket from a 18 to 17 was a good improvement.
ALTHOUGH....
My GT535 runs a 18x4.00  Bridgestone accolade rear tyre. Which is a larger in diameter that the stock 130/70x18 tyre which acts like running a larger drive sprocket by 1 tooth increasing the final drive. So my standard gearing with the 18/36 was like 19/36 if I were to be using a standard size rear tyre. It felt like it was laboring in top gear.

With the 18x4.00 tyre at 100km/hr with the 18/36 gearing the engine's RPM was 3400rpm. Standard tyre and the same standard 18/36 gearing the engines rpm at 100km/hr is 3600rpm.
Changing the gearing from 18 to a 17 was basically returning the gearing back to standard drive ratio.
Which was the 19x4.00 tyre and 17/36 gearing, at 100km/hr was 3600rpm.

Lowering the gearing to the 17 took the load off the engine and at highway cruising speeds it feels very effortless. With the 18 it felt it was laboring just a little bit.
The bike still reached "the ton". But with the 18 tooth (equals a 19 tooth with a standard tyre) it couldn't rev past 5500rpm in top gear. Would just labour at that point. That teels me its over geared.

With the 17 installed on the front with my taller tyre (18x4.00)
It gets the ton a little sooner and revved to the 5700rpm redline compared to before it couldn't quite get to redline. 5700rpm red line is a little too low for one of these engines in a high state of tune for my liking. It's still pulling.

It's still a slow crawl from 150km/hr to 162km/hr top speed with the new gearing.
Which I'll gear 1 tooth lower again at a later date, with a larger throttle body and the rev limiter lifted higher from 5700rpm to 6500rpm.
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #24 on: April 15, 2024, 01:07:41 am
Not a very significant update. But it's more of that tailoring to suit my comfort really.

Finally got the Clubman bars I modified, shortened, changed the bar angle and TIG welded them back up.
Finally back fromm the Chrome platers. Reasonably priced but took well over a month turn around. But I wasn't in a great rush for them.

The universal ones were way too far forward. Nearly felt like my head was over the front wheel.
They came up a treat though.











They are somewhat in a similar position to the standard clip ons, the bar clamp bases are shortened by 10mm, Clubman bars are about 5mm more forward, a bar width lower along with a little more angle down. What feels nice to me.
The standard clip on position was too high and felt cramped.
Now I feel even pressure on my hands and feet.

Original Clip On vs the modified clubman.



I could been a "bolt on bandit" and be done and happy with it. But you guys know my trend by now. Not all but most things get nutted out and changed or upgraded in one way or another.
I'd rather build my own iteration with a little more thought than handing my dollars over.
Here's what the supplied bar clamp from Hitchcocks came like with standard Clubmans fitted vs the evolution of fanatically modifying to suit.





Lastly I've added these little rubber dampening mounts from HMC to the Speed/Tacho clock mount. They get a violent vibration up at 4500rpm and beyond.
Along with the shorter handlebars, big lumpy bar end weights and now the clock bracket not acting like a tuning fork on the upper triple clamp. It should be quite pleasant on the hands along with being able to read my speedo after 4500rpm!

FYI the bar end weights are from Alliexpress. Big, Heavy and cheap too!

After a few rides I decided to change the forward mounting dampers on the clock bracket to fairing grommets. Couple of washers to match the thickness as the rubber dampers.
It still dampens the vibration but isn't as floppy as having all rubber mounts. Especially at Idle it used to wiggle around like it was waving at you.



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StreetKleaver

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Reply #25 on: April 15, 2024, 01:19:03 am
Took it out for a good ride to test its new ergonomics. Feels like it's well suited for me now. My ass is up against the hump and my arms in a nice position. Feels like equal pressure on my hands and feet. I can get down and tuck in.
Everything feels neutral and comfortable. A win!

The tune now feels like it's pretty well spot on.
Rung it out to make sure the new pushrod anything is fine. The surprises keep coming!
It exceeded 100mph! Especially that I could actually read the speedo now with the rubber mounts, instead of it vibrating into a blur!
Touched the (stock) rev limiter at 102mph!




Its a few days before Christmas 2022.
Jumped on the bike and headed to the city. A 4hr ride for me. The bike ran flawlessly. Managed 27 to 32km per litre depending on the types of roads. In standard trim it was 30km per litre.
Our Highways are 110km/h. On those roads the bike would drink a little more compared to the 100km/hr zones. But Definitely surprised still.
It's Interesting not much has changed in consumption vs a stock engine. The bike is now great fun on the highway. Can quickly spin her up for quick acceleration and overtake.
Here's a few snaps of the scenery worth stopping for during my runs on my B road travels.

Saturday morning was Cafe Racer meet. The little red bike got a lot of questions and queries and commended how "traditional" it looks and the fact its a Ton Up machine. Was great to meet new people and actually be around like minded interests. In my home town I'm it when it comes to a Cafe Racer in a plethora of Adventure Bikes, Harleys and Sports rockets.

My 2 days was 743kms in under 24hrs. I was buggered by the time I got home!





Chatting to my best mate (His standard GT535) Cold coffee because its Queensland before the 4hr ride back home. Good to have a friend with a stock GT535 to compare. It's like chalk and cheese instead of online speculation.



My favourite area oin the way home in the hills of South East Queensland. Then the next 1.5hrs is straight, flat and boring as bat sh!te.

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StreetKleaver

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Reply #26 on: April 15, 2024, 01:42:42 am
I've got the YSS Fork upgrade kit for the GT. Linear (straight rate springs) standard rating and PD Valve (cartridge emulators)
So far I've stripped one fork down and fiddled about. I'll take to damper rods in the lathe and face them up on the lathe where the PD valve seat. The finish is a bit haggard and the new PD valves have to seat in them.



Oil looks original. Along with those garbage progressive springs (not a fan of progressive springs)



The controversial damping rod that everyone is scared to drill holes in. I'll be boring holes into these bad boys straight up! Those teeny holes kept standard along with the PD valve plonked on top would only achieve a placebo affect rather than a real world one.

Note the lower ones only get drilled.



Damper Rods drilled 2 x 8mm holes per Rod. There was small 2 existing holes on the bottom end of each rod.
I'll stick the Rods in the lath and run a pass on the top so there's a flat surface for the PD valve to seat.



Note the finish on the front face. A bit rough. I cleaned them in the lathe but lapping it on glass and sand paper is also fine.



Some 567 on the bolts just for reassurance or no leaks. (577 is the thread locker version of pipe selant)



My custom special tool to remove the damper rods from the forks. 18mm bolt (with a 26mm head for to sit inside the damper rod) welded to 16mm threaded rod with a 16mm nut welded on the end.



Top spacers need to be trimmed minus the amount of the PD valves



Instructions on Drilling the damper rods. Which people are scared of doing. The rods are a $15 part.  ???



Now on to the ride report.

The springs I'm using are standard rate for my weight. Although they are the straight rate/Linear Springs. Not Progressive.
In my experience with re-valving my own motocross and enduro suspension. Progressive is garbage and just a band aid for valving that doesn't work effectively. Also a bit of a cost cutter in manufacturing.
Springs hold you up. Valving and controls the energy/travel/movement of the suspension.

There's a lot of debate with these kits especially in the 650 section about drilling out the damping rods. My opinion that's done from a marketing standpoint to keep it as simple as possible for the DIY guy as possible. Because they'll shy away from drilling holes into suspension. But those holes need to be there to allow the un restricted flow PD valve to handle the compression damping.

Compression Damping is handled via the PD Valve.
Rebound is tuned via Oil Viscosity. Thicker = slower rebound.
Rule of thumb is you want rebound "just" quick enough to return to extension to absorb the next bump in succession to the last. Too slow it will sit lower in the stroke not allowing it to extend enough to absorb the next bump, making it feel harsher since its sitting in the firmer part of the stroke. Too fast will feel like a pogo stick.
Similar to compression damping. Too stiff will be rock hard and deflective, too soft will be divey and nervous.

Gizzo helped me out with some base line settings.
Oil Height = 140mm (fork tube compressed with no spring installed)
Oil = 15w
PD Valve Preload = 2 turns. (After testing I think 2.5 turns out will be optimal)
Bleed holes 1 (Standard : 3 extra can be drilled out for slow speed plushness IE - Small bumps)

I've been riding around about a week on this setup and its night and day compared to what was there. It feels like a fork should. Like something familiar and predictable.
Sits up under braking, where as before it would dive. Bigger bumps it soaks up nicely where as prior it would stab through the stroke and feel harsh.
A lot more planted in corners and doesn't feel as wavey if you're trundling around. It likes to power through corners to feel planted.

Hagon Rear shocks should turn up soon then I can really start tuning the whole bike. The standard rear shocks feel over sprung and harsh.
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GUNR

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Reply #27 on: April 16, 2024, 11:14:47 am
Ben, did you stay with the 2 original holes but open them up to to 8mm? That's what I did (instead of following the instructions which say to have 4 holes in total) and as you say, the difference is night and day. I used a long 'pickle grabber' tool to seat the YSS emulators after the oil was poured in, so reaching them again will be easy enough.

Did you get your fancy new rockers installed and did they look better than the original 'plasticine looking' ones?
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #28 on: April 17, 2024, 12:58:19 am
Ben, did you stay with the 2 original holes but open them up to to 8mm? That's what I did (instead of following the instructions which say to have 4 holes in total) and as you say, the difference is night and day. I used a long 'pickle grabber' tool to seat the YSS emulators after the oil was poured in, so reaching them again will be easy enough.

Did you get your fancy new rockers installed and did they look better than the original 'plasticine looking' ones?

Yes I did run with the original 2 holes drilled to 8mm.

Next time I have the forks open I'll wind the preload on the PD valve half a turn from 2 to 2.5 turns. Apart from that it's been good.

I have a spare set of rockers to clean up and polish I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Been busy lately with non bike related stuff.

I do have a GT650 top and bottom yoke conversion in the works though.
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Reply #29 on: April 17, 2024, 02:01:56 am
Are the 3 centre to centre measurements identical for the 535 and 650? Or will you need to use your machining skills?
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Reply #30 on: April 19, 2024, 04:33:12 pm
It's nice to see the old ACE intake design from the Big Gulp thread making it into your bike!
Bill G
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Reply #31 on: April 20, 2024, 11:09:24 pm
Are the 3 centre to centre measurements identical for the 535 and 650? Or will you need to use your machining skills?

The hole centers all match up fine but there is differences.
The 650 top yoke takes like a tube nut with in-hex socket (allen key)
Where as the GT535 takes a big chrome nut.
The 650 tope yoke surface is curved so the GT535 nut won't seat nicely. So a flat surface (seat) needs to be machined.

I've started one here.
Half way through the conversion but had to move house.

To use it on the standard GT535 steering assembly it needs a bush/spacer to take up the shaft diameter diffences and seat on the bearing take up castle nuts and a seat machined on top for the chrome nut to seat on. Pictured here.



Here's the raw 650 Top yoke un-modified



The milling attachment for my lathe. Had to machine up a fixture to get it all to work. The tooling used is a fly cutter with a hand ground HSS tool. This can easily be done a on vertical mill. I just don't have one (..yet)



Job done.





This is far as I got then had to move house. I was going to use the nylon bushes and bar riser to mount my clubman bars but that has changed.

It's still getting done just waiting on some new older style chrome clip ons to arrive and also incorporating the old style steering damper the 50s and 60s model had.

I'll be machining up a new steering stem and cutting a new thread. Lengthening the whole assembly so the bottom yoke is still mounted in the factory position. The top yoke will be flush with the tops of the forks. Allowing more adjustment for the clip ons. I'll sort all the speedo clocks mounts to suit. Easy stuff.
Will unlock more of that iconic 60s image it was designed from.

Added bonus the 650 yokes are lighter, more slender in design and all aluminum.
Unlike the battle axe cast steel lower yoke of the GT535 and chunky cast ally upper yoke.

Once it's all done I'll do a post of course.
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #32 on: April 20, 2024, 11:15:22 pm
It's nice to see the old ACE intake design from the Big Gulp thread making it into your bike!
Bill G

Yes. Absolutely, a wealth of technical information.
But made my own changes and upgrades by using a K&N filter vs the paper one supplied.
Also 1 M6 bolt to mount the air filter fixture. Not zip ties.
Also the cost difference was was the quarter of the price here in Australia.
Just a few hours of creativity and fun in the shed :)
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Reply #33 on: April 21, 2024, 12:25:32 am
A little post on tyres and gearing with the method behind the madness.
In other groups it seems to confuse people and they over think it.
Mainly the UCE 500 Classic riders that want to gear their bikes so tall to something that resembles a stationary engine slogging around in top gear. With a strange facination of not revving the engine higher than 4000rpm.

I won't bang on about it. Paul Henshaw seems to state his case continually.

Very Basic terms. Tall gearing and low rpm with more load in higher gears. More Load, More Heat, Less oil pressure = less of the good stuff moving around to lubricate it. The bottom ends cop the slogging. I've seen evidence of this first had on the big end and main roller bearings.

Slightly lower by 1 tooth on the front gearing. Less load, more rpm (only 250rpm more), more oil pressure and more of it moving about.

Here's a main bearing inner race from my 500. The previous owner is know top gear low rpm slogger.
The buffed areas are from impact/vibration from the roller bearings. That caused from exactly that, low rpm, higher gear slogging about.
I work in a railway wheelshop/machine shop.
Dealing with bearings and identifying defects is a day to day job.



Anyway...

This is for mainly those who are seeking info. Most of us regulars know all this anyway.

The control is 100km/hr (62mph) in top (5th) gear.
Because thats 95% of our highway speed.
With multiple lane highways are 110km/h (68 mph)

With stock tyre sizes with a tuned GT535 engine a few reported drop to a 17 tooth front drive sprocket is a good happy medium. Takes the load off the engine and doesn't affect fuel economy. I've tested that. A tuned GT535 actually benefits from it. Tested that also on here.

This is from gearingcommander.com. A handy tool for working things out.



Above is the stock rear tyre size with gearing most go for to give you a idea.
19  - 36 (1 tooth larger)
18  - 36 (stock gearing)
17 -  36 (1 tooth smaller)



Above is a chart of the rear tyre I'm using. Bridgestone Accolade AC02 4.00x18. (They are larger in diameter) Which also acts like taller gearing as you can see in the rpm vs 100km/hr differences.

So installing a 17 tooth front sprocket with the Bridgestone Accolade rear tyre, it's the nearly identical comparison of rpm to speed as the stock gearing 18 tooth front sprocket with a stock sized rear tyre.

Now that's out of the way.

With my GT535 tuned in using various AFR targets using the auto tuner.
18-36 (stock gearing) top speed run with my head on the tank. The engine could not pull top gear.
It would reach 5500rpm and just hang there around 155km/hr.
The stock rev limiter is 5750rpm (or there abouts)
Keep in mind this gearing is like running a 19 tooth with a stock tyre size.

Installed a 17 tooth front sprocket. Which returns it to close to the stock final drive ratio.
Rung it out to make sure everything is fine and working as it should.
It exceeded 160km/hr (100mph)
Touched the (stock) rev limiter at 164km/hr (102mph)

But it was a very slow crawl from from 150km/hr to 160km/hr. Which at a later date I'll lower the gearing again along with a 36mm throttle body with a re-tune and rev limiter raised. See how that goes!?
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Reply #34 on: April 21, 2024, 12:53:34 am
Went halves and purchased a pair of Powerage 650 brushed stainless silencers to convert them to fit Friends and my GT535s.

They are a nicely made for the price about $150AUD each it cost us. Fibreglass wool packed. Bolt in baffled also a decibel killer cone welded inside. Looks to be around 304-308 stainless.

Slip joins are a smaller ID and don't fit. No big deal. Pressed up some new ones, TIG welded them on.
Also cut off the heat sheild. Flush mounted it and fulled welded. Then sanded back smooth.
Shifted some brackets around and cut out the integrated Decibel killer cone from inside the baffle.
Bolted on, it looks like it belongs there.

My GT535 now sports a full stainless system. Hand built header and 650 Stainless silencer modified to fit the GT535 .

It's got a good bass thump.
This exhaust total length is 85mm shorter than the last setup (Did this on purpose for a reason).

As they came in the box.



The nasty decibel killer that needs removing.



Gone. This was a pain to cut out. Had to use a dremal tool with small cut off disc to cut it out.



New slip joins for the 1-3/4" header. I machine up my own dies etc on the lathe.



TIG welded in its new home. This is for my GT535, it runs a 304 stainless hand made header pipe.



I wasn't sure what pipe my friend was running so I made a adapter sleeve to suit the stock header just incase.



Fitted.  8)



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Reply #35 on: April 21, 2024, 01:10:40 am
Mid 2023 I had my engine completely out and I re-set the balance factor along with a few other little jobs. Added a extra breather in to the push rod tunnel up to the rocker box and replaced the lifters.



I've been reading and researching this for well over a year now! Going back as far as technical motorcycle books from the 1960s and articles from 30 years ago. It's a bit of a dark art. Finally got enough confidence to have a go myself.



Crank out on my "V" bearing jig. Double checked the run-out on the jig and between centers on my lathe. What I've found with 2 RE cranks I've worked on (so far) that the machined centers cannot be trusted on the shafts.
On the jig, The crank had 0 run out on the bearing landings and 0.01 to 0.02mm at the shaft ends. Not worth trying to improve on.
So far I've re-set the Balance Factor my 535 Iron Barrel/AVL Head hybrid 8.5kg crankshaft and assembled the bottom end and now my GT535.



Modified my jig so knife edges can be used for checking the hanging weight on the small end.





My GT535 UCE crank is a 8.3kg crank. Pretty well the same as a Classic 350 crank which is pictured on the knife edges, visible is the different balancing holes. Where as the Classic UCE 500 is a 10.5kg crank.

In stock form with the stock cast 87mm piston the Balance factor for the GT535 is 57%. With the Hitchcocks 87mm +10 forged piston was 58% due to the forged piston is 10 grams heavier than the stock cast piston.

I raised the Balance factor to 63% which seemed to common consensus answers I got suitable for the GT535 the crankshaft assembly needed to be altered by 30 grams. Which was done by strategic drilling on the light side.



Now on to the verdict. I've been riding it for 3 weeks now so I can ride it in all different conditions with the re-balanced crank assembly.
Vibration, What it didn't do was eliminate it, but it was a very big improvement. Worth the cost of a gasket kit and a weekend of tinkering.

As easy visual control for me was the levers, easy enough see and how bloody annoying it was. Around 3000rpm to 3400rpm (80-90km/h) the levers used to flap and buzz like crazy, previously I'd always had to rest 2 fingers on them to prevent this. Now around those rpms speeds it's super smooth, Probably the smoothest.

100km/hr is a little better than before. But where it shines the most is it will happily rev smoothly all the way to redline. Before it would make the speedo a blur and felt like it was going to shake itself to bits from 4500rpm to redline.
I've seen it's a common issue with GT535s and rode 2 other stock ones for comparison which were the same. They break speedo/tacho clocks by rattling their insides and also snapping the speedo mounts, one of which had a broken speedo bracket, the other on its 2nd set of clocks.

I'm quite happy with the outcome. And have a UCE Classic 500 shortly to change it's balance factor also. I've learned a lot why the crankshaft weights have changed over the years!
My area in Australia the common complaint about the UCE Classic 500 is vibration and how slow they are. But I think they are ridden slow due to the vibration. So I'll see if I can improve on my friends bike as a test.

The next little modification was making the breathing system a little better. Inspiration from what Bullet Whisperer does to his Bullet builds along from the "Bunn Breather" systems. I'll be doing the "Top Down" style. Since the oil pump sends near 4 litres a minute around the engine oil will want to be forced out of the upper breather. So a one way valve needs to be installed.

Arrows are non return valves and blue is a filter. It could be plumbed back into the airbox. But I decided it looked neater without hoses going everywhere.





Found a suitable spot in the RH side case casting above the Lifter keeper bracket. A circular blob in the casting, drilled a 3mm hole, tapped a thread incase if its a failure and I need to bung it up.
Even makes me wonder if it was there for a single stud for a tappet cover like the Iron Barrels.






I found that the engine could of had breathing issues, despite having a open type breather on the breather fitting on the RHS case. First was brand new kick starter seals leaking. Replaced them, then other leaks and issues with o-ring seals despite my efforts. 3 weeks of riding with the new breather system in and no leaks at all now.



Here's the plumbing so far to make sure it's all working as intended. A non return valve is drilled and tapped into the Exhaust Rocker box to the right for clearance. Spun up on the lathe a little fitting bracket to mount the breather pod filter.



Also using the RHS case breather chamber as intended. Which works like a little internal catch can trapping any oil mist and sending in back to the sump whilst letting cooled crank case gases out to atmosphere. No mess on the floor yet either. So far so good!  :)

While I was at it I replaced the lifters. A common trend I see with Indian RE bearings is the case hardening of their bearings and races aren't really up to par with European/Japanese made bearings. Hear you can see the roller of the lifter with a bit of de-lamination. I think there's a American lifter that can be purchased that is a common item in their V8s? But I ended up installing standard ones again. They lasted 30,000kms without failure, just delamination. 






Did I need to do all these things? Probably not. But this is a hobby, I do 99% everything myself and enjoy learning and taking notes from those who are in the know along the way. Then getting to test and ride my efforts. :)
Most of all, proud of my work.

Have a great weekend chaps.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2024, 01:45:08 am by StreetKleaver »
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #36 on: April 21, 2024, 01:45:51 am
Now! Finally up to date where I'm up to in 2024.

Newest modification to the GT535.
Bored the throttle body assembly out from 34.6mm to 36.6mm.

Since the brass valve doesn't close on a 90dg angle. A mandrell/fixture had to be machined up to clamp the brass plate to machine the chamfer on the outer edge that seals against the throttle body bore. Rough pass with the end mill then cleaned up with the fly cutter.

Brass Butterfly is 1.2mm thick. Closing angle is 9dgs

Roughed out with the end mill on my lathe using the milling fixture.



Cleaned up with the fly cutter. I got the indexing of the bolt pattern wrong here. I just had to drill 2 new holes vertically of this orientation. Silly mistake, what you get for doing things tired!



With the butterfly fixture completed (and hole pattern corrected Haha)
In the lathe it went to get the chamfer machined on the butterfly valve.



Swapped the chucks out to the 4 jaw. Trued up the throttle body and bored it out from 34.6mm to 36.6mm.
(measured via bore gauge and micrometer). Not the Vernier's as pictured.





All finished and ready for a polish!





All performed on my Australian 1963 Hercus 9" Lathe. Total cost $10 in brass offcuts.

Not a huge increase in size but should gain a little more oompf past 4000rpm. Haven't been able to test ride since its non stop raining. But from the small rides I've done with the auto tuner it has not affected the bottom end at all. It seems to be a lot more happier after 4000rpm.

More testing and tuning to come. Along with raising the rev limiter from 5700rpm to 6500rpm and installing a 16 tooth front sprocket (equivalent as a 17 tooth front sprocket with my tyres)

Cheers

Ben
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Geoff Vader

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Reply #37 on: April 21, 2024, 01:08:44 pm
Nice work Ben, it’s great to see others who do there own work, and in their own way.
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Taurim

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Reply #38 on: April 21, 2024, 03:07:17 pm
Nice. I'm looking forward to reading what it's going to be like on the road  :)


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Reply #39 on: April 28, 2024, 12:05:29 am
What turned out to be just a filter clean and new spark plug to re-tune for the bored 36mm Throttle Body...
Ended being a complete re-design of the re-design I did on the airbox previously 2 years ago. (Because the stock airbox with the filter inside is a poor design)

Based from the "Big Gulp" thread in this forum with my own little improvements in user friendliness and how its fastened along with fitting the biggest filter I can in under the cover.



After a bit of searching about. I found a Yamaha XVS650 (V star) is the biggest air filter I could squeeze in there, about 127mm in diameter, 50mm high and 85mm internal hole diameter I opened up.

(5"diameter 2" high and 3.34" internal hole for those whole use the barely corn counting system.)

There was an offset flange original. Easy enough to cut off and sand with a flapper drum sanding wheel on a die-grinder. There's a nice out lip to seal on.



The previous K&N filter was from a DRZ/KLX 125cc four stroke dirt bike which is 100mm in diameter and no longer made by K&N. Now at least the filter is matched to the engine capacity. It worked well, But I always looked at it that I can do better.
How I've mounted the velocity stacks remains unchanged. It works well and is secured.





A new aluminum base plate was cut out for the filter to seal against and a gasket. The outer lip of the airbox sanded off smooth. I use rubber grease on the airbox gasket and filter seal. A method I've been using with dirt bikes for 25 years. Works well.







Top hat is hand fabricated stainless steel. All TIG welded up. Some aluminum crush tubes spun up on the lathe to apply just enough pressure on the filter to seal without crushing it. All hardware is M6 304 stainless bolts.





Stickers for visual horsepower of course. (and visual orientation)



The outer cover needed trimming to fit this behemoth in. The camera angle looks drastic but it can only be seen if "you know its there" type deal.
But everything fits, everything clears and nothing rubs. Very tight though!



From every other angle it's business as usual. Nothing out of the ordinary to see.



Inside the airbox I've made up a few different lengths of stainless velocity stacks to try with the larger throttle body when I get the time. Very easy to change out.

I'm extremely happy how this turned out!  :D
I think if I ever get around to it I'll machine a top hat out of aluminum if I get round to it. The stainless is thin gauge and looks nice anyway.

Everything was made out of offcuts. Fun morning of arts and crafts!

I should give the bike a wash though. It always seems to be raining in South East Queensland lately!
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StreetKleaver

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Reply #40 on: June 02, 2024, 02:33:44 am
Finally got around to doing a final tune with its Huge air filter and 36.6mm Throttle body I bored out a few months ago.
Here's my efforts. No fluff, speculation or bollocks.

RevXtend was set to 6500rpm (new rev limiter) since with the stock limiter it was still pulling.
Tuned with the DynoJet auto tuner. AFR set from 12.8 to 13 in chosen areas. Some ignition advance in some. But not far off the ignition map Hitchcocks has set.

Method is I lay a piece of marking tape on the twist throttle switch housing and mark with a pen the targeted throttle percentages I have set in the target AFR columns.
Starting off with 40,60,80,100%. Find a section of road and simulate DYNO pulls in 3rd,4th and 5th gears at a chosen throttle percentage I want it to tune.
Once they are sorted and no more auto-tune trims are made to those, I work on the smaller openings.

Then just some general riding around like I would so it fine tunes the areas I'm mostly riding in.

Before anyone says Why didn't you use a dyno tuner?!

The nearest one is a 4 hour drive away and $600. Expensive day at $800 just to wank over HP readings knowing that'll it put out mid to late 30HP at the wheel.

Not much bragging rights when there's other things in play like the payload that's blobbed on top of some of these bikes they got to lug around.
Luckily I'm 80kgs without taking a sh*t and haven't got the "being in my 40's extra cake belly" yet.

I've gotten much more value out of the auto-tuner which has cost more than half the above cost.

So far its done what was predicted and report by everyone has done the upgrade.
Positive is that it's a lot more happier higher in the rev range. Spinning up to 6000rpm is no issue at all.
With the crankshaft balance factor set at 63%, its smooth from 2500rpm to redline.
Didn't affect any bottom end in any noticeable manner. It is gear lower 1 tooth in the drive sprocket.

Still hits a smidge over 100mph, just gets there quicker. Previously it was a slow crawl from 90mph to 100mph.

Here's the fueling map with the stock 34mm Throttle Body, but with all the other fruit this bike has copped over the years.

Remember this is adjusting/tuning the map against the stock map of the ecu. Its not creating a brand new map.
Some people get confused why there is some wild changes in cells on the spreadsheet. This was all done gradually over a course of a few weeks (between rainy days)



Here's the final results. It's thrown a lot more fuel in the higher end throttle opening percentages and rev range. It pulls well all the way to 5900rpm and tapers off sharply at 6000rpm.
That would come down to exhaust and velocity stack length. Feels good where I have it right now.

Cells that a wildly high in fueling numbers are most likely to be "no mans land" against the stock ecu fueling map where there isn't any fueling values at all since the engine in it's stock state didn't even run there.



How it is now it's great. This motor is most happy from 3000rpm to 5900rpm. So much fun zipping around town and through twisty stuff. About a 2hr ride from where I live it becomes hilly and twisty, where it really shines.

Touring/Highway speeds on our roads are 100 and 110mk/hr (62mph and 68mph).
Hums along at 100km/hr at 3800rpm and 110km/hr at 4000rpm with plenty in the tank to spin up to 6000rpm for overtaking.

Some info for Taurim. The EURO 3 ecu with the PCV it does some weird stuff also. on the 40% and 60% column, with RevXtend enabled. It will still battle the stock rev limiter a little with ignition cut then push through to 6500rpm. But only does it on those 2 throttle precentages. 80% and 100% it will rev all the way to the new set Rev Limiter set by RevXtend.
That's the only issue I've come across with the Euro 3 ECU with the PCV.

Until the next motor rebuild. Which will be years away, when it's due.
  • I'd like to get a new head, use the same valve kit.
  • Weld up and redesign the combustion chamber.
  • Convert to a 36mm Pumper Carb.
  • Add a decompression valve in the head (for kick starting like I've done to my Electra X head build)
  • Ditch the whole Euro 3 fuel injection wiring loom and convert it to the early UCE carburettor wiring loom and run a mappable ignition module.
  • Slightly revise the balance factor on the crankshaft assembly from what I've set at 63% to 65%. Which I think will be on the money

Just waiting on my 650 Bottom yoke to arrive and then I'll machine up a new, longer steering stem and install some classic clip ons.
Cheers guys.
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GUNR

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Reply #41 on: June 02, 2024, 03:39:16 am
Hi Ben,
Interesting reading about the combination of one tooth less at the front to ease the strain on the engine and a larger diameter rear tyre maintaining the road speed.

Early on in your development of your CGT did you consider a Carberry plate (I am due to vibration induced throttle hand grip loss)?
Is there an appreciable difference in handling between your two bikes; obviously due to the CGT having a double downtube cradle frame?
Thanks,
Dave

Riding a motorcycle is like life; it's about the journey not the destination.


StreetKleaver

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Reply #42 on: June 02, 2024, 04:27:31 am
Hi Ben,
Interesting reading about the combination of one tooth less at the front to ease the strain on the engine and a larger diameter rear tyre maintaining the road speed.

Early on in your development of your CGT did you consider a Carberry plate (I am due to vibration induced throttle hand grip loss)?
Is there an appreciable difference in handling between your two bikes; obviously due to the CGT having a double downtube cradle frame?
Thanks,
Dave

Its one of the first things I installed. I didn't notice any difference actually. I've had a few UCE crankshaft assemblies on my jig now and all of them have been pretty spot on for truing and run-out.

The Iron Barrel cranks aren't so great.
I can't speak for UCE Bullets. But the ones I've ridden aren't as noticeable as the GT535. But the frame designs definitely work differently when it comes to vibration.

The stressed member frame of the Bullet/Classic definitely soaks up the vibration more. My Bullets crank had pretty poor run out on disassemble. But still rode smoother than my stock GT.

When the time comes again I'll slightly tweak the balance factor to 65%. At 63% there's a little bit of a slow buzz at 2500rpm. Then nothing to 6000rpm. Standard is 57% and the engine feels like it will self destruct after 4500rpm.

The story goes the home market didn't like a minimal vibration engine, because a strong mans bike has to vibrate. Like riding a baby elephant.  ;D
59 Club UK/Australia
Instagram : @modern_day_rocker


StreetKleaver

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Reply #43 on: August 10, 2024, 12:48:47 am
Hello I'll be no longer updating this thread.

I've sold this GT535 to a good friend and there was a need for a larger bike for a pillion and obviously more power was welcomed.
I got myself English made Hickley 2006 Triumph Thruxton 900.

Feel that I've pushed it as far as I like within the realms of it being a reliable street ridden cafe racer. It's been great and she's cracked up some Km's with the new engine.
Nearly 10,000kms without any hitches happily making power to nearly 6000rpm. I'm quite proud of how it goes and it's appearance. It's been a great bike.
Happy to see it go to a good friend of mine who will appreciate it.

Not much is going to happen with the Thruxton since its pretty good as is. It's had a YSS suspension upgrade. Airbox is fully derestricted and has a set of Aussie made Staintune slip ons.
But of course I won't stop there.
Taking the head to a friends, 3 angle valve seats and ported/polished on the flow bench along with a pair of Mikuni RS40 smooth bores to swap the 36m CV carbs.
The Silencers are stainless. I'll cut up, shorten and replace the louvered baffles with stainless perforated tube. May or may not plug up and smooth over the cross over pipe. The Jury is out on that one.




This thread was to keep a database, I've still got UCE engines lined up for clients to work on. Happy to answer any questions that arise.
Still currently cracking on with my 1953 Bullet (Redditch Frame) but with a Iron Barrel Bottom end with 8.5kg 350 crank and Electra X 535 AVL top end.
Should be a ball tearer!

Thanks all.

Ben
59 Club UK/Australia
Instagram : @modern_day_rocker


Adrian II

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Reply #44 on: August 10, 2024, 02:16:06 pm
This just shows what the factory could have done.

Really looking forward to seeing how the semi-Redditch-framed AVL hybrid turns out.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


GUNR

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Reply #45 on: August 11, 2024, 02:31:23 pm
Thanks Ben for documenting your improvements which have inspired us to get more out of our bikes.
I’ll be looking out for your Thruxton thread.
Riding a motorcycle is like life; it's about the journey not the destination.


jamit2006

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Reply #46 on: August 15, 2024, 01:55:06 am
Ben good luck with the Triumph, you have been a source of inspiration and knowledge for getting the most out of the GT535. Thank you for sharing your journey 👍🙏


Fung

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Reply #47 on: August 24, 2024, 06:09:40 am
Well done Ben.
Clearly and concisely chronicled article.
Trumpy is nice man 😎