[Justin T]

Hi all
I'm a bit confused. When warm the bike starts very easy, just when cold, even after a day, it's taking about 10 or so kicks to get it interested. Find that a bit odd. The battery is new. I've not been choking it as were having a "heatwave ". Though even in winter with the choke it's no different. Am I missing a trick?
Cheers, Justin

[Spudgun]

These bikes can be temperamental. Most days. My Lightning starts 1st or 2nd kick (Hot or cold). Sometimes. It takes 4 or 5. Rarely. I have to change the plug before it'll start.

That's Enfield ownership for you.

[Paul W]

My guess is a weak starting mixture.

[stinkwheel]

I find they sometimes don't fill the float bowl properly, which may be a function of the pretty weedy fuel flow most of the taps you find on enfields have. I think the needle valve sticks in its seat and the pressure of fuel coming back down isn't enough to force it out. Kicking it over multiple times eventually rattles it loose. I know for a fact this was an issue on both amals I've had because they often wouldn't tickle up properly if they'd been sat for over a week and I'd land up blowing down the fuel line to get things moving.

I got into the trick of shutting off the fuel tap just before I got home so it wasn't stopped on a full float bowl and the needle valve wasn't sat on its seat while it was parked.

Not saying that is the problem but it's something you could try.

[Justin T]

That makes a lot of sense. Usually it is worse as the tank empties. If I fill the tank to the brim it's definitely better.

I find they sometimes don't fill the float bowl properly, which may be a function of the pretty weedy fuel flow most of the taps you find on enfields have. I think the needle valve sticks in its seat and the pressure of fuel coming back down isn't enough to force it out. Kicking it over multiple times eventually rattles it loose. I know for a fact this was an issue on both amals I've had because they often wouldn't tickle up properly if they'd been sat for over a week and I'd land up blowing down the fuel line to get things moving.

I got into the trick of shutting off the fuel tap just before I got home so it wasn't stopped on a full float bowl and the needle valve wasn't sat on its seat while it was parked.

Not saying that is the problem but it's something you could try.

[Raymond]

That sounds like a good suggestion to turn the fuel off and drain the float bowl.

The procedure I've adopted for cold starts is, choke ON, ignition OFF, throttle shut, 2 or three kicks to prime the engine, then choke OFF, ignition ON, throttle just a bit open, usually starts on the first kick thereafter. And as OP says, usually starts first kick for the rest of the day.

[tooseevee]

That sounds like a good suggestion to turn the fuel off and drain the float bowl.

The procedure I've adopted for cold starts is, choke ON, ignition OFF, throttle shut, 2 or three kicks to prime the engine, then choke OFF, ignition ON, throttle just a bit open, usually starts on the first kick thereafter. And as OP says, usually starts first kick for the rest of the day.

     Similar here with my '08 AVL with TM 32, 9.8:1 Ace head, no decompressor.

      NO throttle at all. Touch it at all & it will not start. Plus I MUST find that sweet spot just barely past TDC with the kicker which can be a bit tricky. Then it's one smooth kick all the way to the front axle  & she's running.

      Any time after that 1st cold start, just kick it & it's running. No foreplay necessary no matter where the piston is.

[ddavidv]

Mine has a PWK conversion, but wants choke on any cold start no matter the ambient temperature. Never any throttle; apply throttle and you may as well plan on staying home. 

[Justin T]

Ah! This is all fantastic advice. Thanks. 

[Justin T]

So I tried a few tips from above and I got her started a lot quicker than I have been. Cheers! 

[Justin T]

Just a further note. I changed the sparkplug and I'm having a lot more success. Also, now it's cold I'm using the choke and that works too. Having only driven Bullets in India before this bike the whole choke on an Enfield is a new experience.
Since the new sparkplug it is running 100% better and before was maxed out at 50, now 60 comes up just like that without even trying.
The bike still has only 500 miles on the clock so I was surprised it needed a sparkplug. Really need to get her run in!
Passed her 3nd MOT ever a few days ago. Just a dicky rear bulb, tighten of the front break and rear wheel alignment.

[axman88]

I just resolved a starting issue with a Suzuki 250 single that refused to start below 40F, but started immediately at warmer temperatures.  By giving the carburetor a little heat, I could induce it to start at colder temperatures.

I chased carb. and electrical issues for a week, before changing the fuel in the tank, which seems to have totally resolved the problem.  Perhaps that tank of fuel was defective, but it had sat for a few weeks in the tank, and I believe it was the tail end of the summer formulation.  Here in Chicago, they switch to a more volatile winter formulation in late September.  It seems that perhaps that particular engine/carb. is particularly sensitive to fuel volatility.

[Seipgam]

I’m with Raymond on that cold start procedure.
Just to add, make sure you’ve set it just past TDC before you give it the starting kick, and I have the throttle opened so I can just feel the slide lift - about enough for a high idle speed.

Geoff.