Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: MrktStrtMyhm on October 01, 2013, 04:57:32 am
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Good evening!
Some noob questions for you: My bike was 1200 or so miles on it, and the front brakes squeak as I apply them. Just add some kind of lubricant/oil to them right?
Also, the large hexagonal bolt that sits on the console, directly below the speedometer, has some rust around the edges. What's a safe rust remover to use on chrome parts?
And lastly, I've been checking most of the nuts and bolts for any weakness/signs of looseness, and so far everything is good and tight. I think I know most of you guys will says take the bolts off and apply loctite now rather than later, but does anyone else do it differently?
I appreciate it guys!
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The only thing that needs any oil or grease on the front brakes is the guide pins that the pads and calipers use to hold things in place. Do not apply oil or grease to any other piece of the brakes or it won't stop.
You could probably use a light oil and a old toothbrush to try to remove the rust. If that dosn't work, some fine steel wool will do the job but it's hard to keep it from scratching the paint around the nut.
The nuts with the nylon inserts built into them don't need anything to lock them in place. That's what the nylon insert does.
IMO, if the bike has 1200 miles on it and the fasteners are still tight, don't worry about them.
If you remove any of them then be sure to apply some blue Loc-tite or a similar medium strength thread locking compound.
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Mines rusted around that big nut too. Almost straight after buying the bike new. Every now and then I apply rust remover with a toothbrush but you must be careful not to get it everywhere as it will eat paint. I can't be arsed with prettying the bike up too much anymore. Use it too much.
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I used Kroil or Liquid Wrench on a toothbrush to clean my big nut. The Misses won't mind Kroil, it smells kind of nice. ;D
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I have some Liquid Wrench and a spare toothbrush so I'll add that to my list of things to do to the bike today (along with practicing removing the battery for winter storage, wiping up grease spots, and lubricating cables and pivots).
And I knew as I typing about using grease on the brakes that it was a bad idea haha. Nothing like nice lubricated brakes to start your morning commute.
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Sometimes front brake pads vibrate and create a buzzing sound which can be reduced by applying brake-lube on the BACK of the brake pads, on the metal surface that touches the brake pistons.
Take off brake caliper, remove pads, pins, spring and clean each item and apply thin coat of brake-lube to pins that pass through the holes in brake pads. I also apply a thin layer of brake-lube on metallic flat spring that comes in contact with the edge of brake pads.
Clean disc also.
I emphasize brake-lube because it sticks to surface, does not run or spread around to areas which should not be oiled.
No lube on the disc, no lube on the pad surface touching the disc - which you already know.
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ACF50 will remove it and keep it from returning. It's a good idea to spray all the metal parts down with it. You don't need to get carried away. A light film will work, and doesn't effect the paint. An application is good for about a year. It's great stuff! It's used on aircraft to prevent corrosion.
Bare
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Here is a dumb question Bare. Do you spray and wipe down? Or just spray and leave it? Enquiring minds want to know.