[grahampaul]

 hi every one.
 I have just got a 500 bullit,2004.electric start. cant take it for a run at the mo as having catteracks done. it starts allright and ticks over when warm on starter motor.
 havant tried kickstart .the compresser cable and lever is missing.the decompresser  is there bobing away.hmm.any  thoughts..like fit one comes to mind,lol

[stinkwheel]

It would be a good idea to fit one because it'll make it run lean and hot if the decompressor is able to open on the induction stroke and draw air in. My decompressor cable got trapped under the tank once and was being held open ever so slightly. It melted the rubber anti-vibration dampeners I'd fitted to ther barrel!

They can be blanked off if you want. You could even blank it off by screwing a sparkplug in there if you don't want to buy a proper blanking plug. Depends how difficult it is to get over compression on the kickstart (I find the clutch slips on mine preventing it going over compression if I don't use the decompressor)

Otherwise re-instate it. You'd need a cable, lever, spring and probably the little bottle-cap looking thing that goes on top of the spring.

If you don't want to set it all up now, if you're going to run the engine at least get the spring and bottle cap thing so it holds itself closed. That'll set you back a whopping £3.98 plus postage. Parts 140100 and 140101.

DO NOT PULL THE SPLIT PIN OUT. If you do the valve will drop into your engine. Don't ask me how I know.

[grahampaul]

  thanks for the info gear head,appreciated.will get one ordered up.

[tooseevee]

hi every one.
 I have just got a 500 bullit,2004.electric start. cant take it for a run at the mo as having catteracks done. it starts allright and ticks over when warm on starter motor.
 havant tried kickstart .the compresser cable and lever is missing.the decompresser  is there bobing away.hmm.any  thoughts..like fit one comes to mind,lol

       Yes.

        Definitely refurbish your decompressor. You will find life more pleasant if you do. Kick starting is MUCH easier with a functioning decompressor.
It will also help your sprag clutch last a little longer if you use it while cranking on the PHD button. And you should ALWAYS shut the engine down with the decompressor & THEN turn the key OFF.

         You're lucky to have one that WILL actually work. The AVL's "decompressor" was useless from the factory.

PS: Good luck recovering from your cataract surgery. Have had both done & have had recurring problems ever since.

[ddavidv]

Due to problems with my handlebar controls, my cable did not work on mine for several years. You can just use your thumb to activate it (only when cold, obviously!). The cable is just a convenience. 

[SteveThackery]

Due to problems with my handlebar controls, my cable did not work on mine for several years. You can just use your thumb to activate it (only when cold, obviously!). The cable is just a convenience. 

Yes, I was puzzled by the OP saying the decompressor is "bobbing away".  I thought the spring was strong enough to not let it do that.  Is that wrong?

[grahampaul]

not sure if it should move or not witout the cable it was acting more like tappet.
have a new one ordered and wont play with the engine till its fitted.bit oily round the fins top of the barrel so will be taking the head of to have a look,have read they can get stuck.

[stinkwheel]

not sure if it should move or not witout the cable it was acting more like tappet.
have a new one ordered and wont play with the engine till its fitted.bit oily round the fins top of the barrel so will be taking the head of to have a look,have read they can get stuck.

That's not right. The cable is loose when it's not being used anyway. If it's moving, that means the valve is opening and closing, which it shouldn't.

Here's a pic of one newly assembled waiting for the cable to be hooked up.

[stinkwheel]

Although it just occurred to me that this could be why my 612 pinks under heavy load at lower to middle revs. If it's generating enough vacuum on the induction stroke, it could be pulling that valve open slightly and leaning off the mixture. I may try it with a stronger spring and see if it stops. *wanders off to the the shed with a vernier in search of his box of old valve springs*

[ddavidv]

I noted some exhaust staining around mine (before I fixed the cable controls). Turns out the valve wasn't tightly seated. Bike ran okay, but it was just loose enough to allow some escape.

[Paul W]

The decompressor valve itself can be ground in, just like the main valves. I did mine when I first had to remove the cylinder head due to exhaust valve seat recession. There is a screwdriver slot on the valve head which made it very easy to do.

[grahampaul]

That's not right. The cable is loose when it's not being used anyway. If it's moving, that means the valve is opening and closing, which it shouldn't.

Here's a pic of one newly assembled waiting for the cable to be hooked up.

[/quote
 thanks for the pic,very nice.mind if i keep copy? compressor arived today with a new cable,there was no spring on the old one!.all fitted,awaiting a lever.
the old one ws very sooted up an a bit sticky

[stinkwheel]

thanks for the pic,very nice.mind if i keep copy? compressor arived today with a new cable,there was no spring on the old one!.all fitted,awaiting a lever.
the old one ws very sooted up an a bit sticky

No worries. I took lots of pictures for three seperate, ground-up bullet builds so I have pictures of most parts/assembiles. If you need one, just ask.

Good job you noticed and addressed this, it could potentially have killed your engine if you'd ridden it like that for any period of time and would have been dog-rough.

[Adrian II]

For screwing in a decomp valve with the cable already fitted, just slip a suitably sized tubular box spanner over cable. You might have to trim the spring's retaining cap a little or jiggle it out of the way.

A.

[tooseevee]

For screwing in a decomp valve with the cable already fitted, just slip a suitably sized tubular box spanner over cable. You might have to trim the spring's retaining cap a little or jiggle it out of the way.
A.

    Brake line box-end wrench?

     Part of the box end is cut away so it can slip over the line & onto the threaded fitting.