Author Topic: Black sparg plug, heavy oil use, new build up engine  (Read 9668 times)

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winsun-enfield

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Reply #75 on: May 22, 2024, 03:27:19 pm
The oil should flow ack via the pusrod holes, correct? There's no obstruction in that? I just cheked the 2 holes in de housing where the inspection lid is (cam followers? Between the pushrods and the cams) and they are open.


Super45

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Reply #76 on: May 22, 2024, 03:42:16 pm
You mean the oil feed holes which are sealed -original- with a small rubber ring?
the head is equipped with a set of samrat's..

yes that's correct hold up to a light and you may see an obstruction if it hasnt already been upgraded already 

Even Mr H confirms it :

"For owners with Samrat rockers fitted, it is worth checking the size of the oil
hole through the alloy block. Since 2006 as a matter of course we open up the standard hole to approximately
2.5mm on every set we supply. This allows more flow with lower pressure."



winsun-enfield

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Reply #77 on: May 22, 2024, 03:47:53 pm
Okay, so just a 2,5mm driil thorugh it? But this kit came from HMC, i will check anyway...


Paul W

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Reply #78 on: May 22, 2024, 07:58:13 pm
I’m sure H’s still sell the kit. The assembly consists of a modified tappet adjustment access cover, containing the relief valve. There is a pipe adapter which fits onto the return outlet on the engine; the external pipe  needs minor reshaping by hand and it then fits onto the adapter. From memory it requires nothing more complicated than a spanner to fit it.
Paul W.


stinkwheel

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Reply #79 on: May 22, 2024, 09:25:45 pm
I’m sure H’s still sell the kit. The assembly consists of a modified tappet adjustment access cover, containing the relief valve. There is a pipe adapter which fits onto the return outlet on the engine; the external pipe  needs minor reshaping by hand and it then fits onto the adapter. From memory it requires nothing more complicated than a spanner to fit it.

One in-situ. I replaced those fibre washers with copper ones because they pretty much squished out when tightened down enough to not leak. I keep meaning to swap them out for dowtys which I use anywhere I can.


winsun-enfield

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Reply #80 on: May 23, 2024, 07:44:51 am
Okay thanks for reply, i do not understand it 100% but need coffe and once you have the kit it will work out itself?

But back to topic.. Not a single reason found for the extreme heavy oil consumption..
right now i feel like sacrificial burning of the thing..


allanfox

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Reply #81 on: May 23, 2024, 09:07:48 am
Whilst I would agree with the point about the barrel being shiny (how is the compression?) anything that allows oil past the rings will also reduce compression to a degree.

Apologies if I am stating the obvious (please don't take offense!) but are you measuring oil level correctly?

Take the bike out and give it a good run (aka thrash) when you get home sit it on level ground and wait 5 mins before checking the level, keep the level about half way on the stick or just above. if you are topping up too soon it is overfilling the tank and encouraging wet sumping, you really don't need to be filling it up to the top of the stick all the time.

Also fit an iridium plug, they have been good on my 350 iron barrel with points. Could it be the crank seal on the timing side allowing oil into the crankcase from the timing cover? An easy fix to put a new one in in needed.


winsun-enfield

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Reply #82 on: May 23, 2024, 09:14:35 am
Yes i am aware of how to measure oil on the bullet.. But the amount of carbon deposit on the spark plyg and piston is even more proof of excessive oil burning.

The crank seal on the timing side is an interesting thing, i will replace it to be sure?? Thanks for the tip!! But, if this one is at fault, i would see 'wet sumping'??

It would be nice if that would be possible with the engine in the frame/whithout dissasembleing the whole damn thing!


stinkwheel

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Reply #83 on: May 23, 2024, 10:00:59 am
The crank seal on the timing side is an interesting thing, i will replace it to be sure?? Thanks for the tip!! But, if this one is at fault, i would see 'wet sumping'??

It would be nice if that would be possible with the engine in the frame/whithout dissasembleing the whole damn thing!

Pretty sure that would be possible, I've never done it should really just be a case of pulling the old one. A new one would go in from the outside just fine. You have to remove the cams and timing pinnion then it's right there looking at you.

Here's the view you get. Note this one is in "the wrong way round" (open side facing in) because I had to heavily undercut the casting where the seal goes to accommodate the high lift cams. I wanted the main part of the seal to be supported where the bulk of the metal was left. I have used a dual-lip seal so it works in both directions anyway.



I've seen a trick people use on Japanese bikes to replace the gearbox output shaft oil seal without splitting the motor and this seems a very similar setup. What they do is screw two short self-trapping screws into the oil seal, (just enough to bite, not enough to impinge on the bearing) then wrap a piece of wire round them to form a loop about 6-8" long. You then put the head of a hammer through the loop and tap the seal out with it.


winsun-enfield

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Reply #84 on: May 23, 2024, 11:04:50 am
Yes, the open side should face to the cams.. This bike had more mistakes from factory but.. if this seal was leaking, there should be a lot/more oil in the sump when i checked for wet sumping?


Super45

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Reply #85 on: May 23, 2024, 02:32:12 pm
Yes, the open side should face to the cams.. This bike had more mistakes from factory but.. if this seal was leaking, there should be a lot/more oil in the sump when i checked for wet sumping?

correct, as your bike doesn't seem to be dripping down into the crank case much more than a few millilitres,   I would ignore this for the time being.


Super45

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Reply #86 on: May 23, 2024, 02:37:44 pm
Okay, so just a 2,5mm driil thorugh it? But this kit came from HMC, i will check anyway...

Yes just have a check to be sure, if no steps on obstruction re-fit once the rest of the bike is ready and:

" Be careful not to over-tighten these nuts - the torque figure is 5ft/lbs [6.5 Nm] " (quote from Mr H website)


winsun-enfield

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Reply #87 on: May 31, 2024, 09:55:42 am
New gaskets and Meteor piston have arrived..
Will this piston increase the compression ratio?


AzCal Retred

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Reply #88 on: May 31, 2024, 02:31:31 pm
If you have a 500, a 70mm "Meteor" piston will rattle around inside an 84mm bore. If you actually have a 350, likely about 9.5/1 CR or better.

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/core/media/media.nl?id=238072&c=1062795&h=cfaae735b4340ba7dd84&_xt=.pdf

'94 500 bullet : 84mm bore, 90mm stroke

350 Bullet: 70mm bore, 90mm stroke

500 Meteor Minor: 2 x 70mm bore, 64mm stroke

700 Meteor:  2 x 70mm bore, 90mm stroke

736 Interceptor: 2 x 71mm bore, 93mm stroke
A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


winsun-enfield

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Reply #89 on: May 31, 2024, 02:40:28 pm
?
It is a 87mm Meteor piston... will it give a different C.R?