[GUNR]

The subject title refers mostly to my bike, but also somewhat to myself. A little back story to set the scene...This year marks exactly 30yrs since since a daydreaming car driver decided to start off through the 'STOP' sign and pull out onto the highway in front of me. I had enough time to push the 'bars away from a right angle collision at 80kmh, but the ensuing impact spun her Cortina station wagon ('Estates' I think they're known as in the UK) 180 degrees. You can be spared the details but suffice to say that when you can look down at your own body lying on the ground, it's not a good view.

Fast forward 30yrs and as long a hiatus from motorbicycling, this year started off well and then it suddenly turned to 'you-know-what' with 2 emergency surgeries and 7wks in hospital. My son who is deep into the 'MAS' (Motorcycle Acquisition Syndrome) saw how close I was to shuffling off this mortal coil a couple of times and he arranged a pleasant surprise for me.

My hospitalisation spanned ANZAC Day, Easter and also my birthday, so my son drove 1,200km to play a phone video showing my CGT535 idling in his driveway in Melbourne. A couple of months later a truck arrives containing my little red rocket.

Fellow Royal Enfieldians, you soon forget how much core strength is required to shift a mid-sized motorcycle (especially if you have recently lost 25% of your body mass via surgery, hospital 'food' etc.). I've had a couple of 50km blasts recently and the sound of the Hitchcocks stainless header and reverse cone 'mufflers' induce in me a meditative state. One thing is for certain, musician's moulded earplugs with 25dB attenuators are just not up to the task Note to self..."I must source better hearing protection before I'm deafened by the tinnitus.

'GUNR' (pronounced 'gunner') is my subtle reference to Enfield's past involvement with faster and much louder things. If this bike didn't have steel side covers, had a lighter frame and lost 30 odd kilos it would almost remind me of my metalflake silver Desmo 450 which I bought new in New Zealand when I was but 19.

I distinctly remember when at 16yrs of age I rode my mate's 650 Triumph Saint home. Mum opened the kitchen window further and uttered a most profound statement "mark my words David, motorcycles will keep you poor". So...when I left school I bought a 1959 Norton Dominator and rode off to work in another city. And so it goes.
Motorcycles have been central to many aspects of my life and now I am revisiting 'Older Budweiser'

Next post I'd better continue with the bike.
David

[GUNR]

When you are about to purchase a bike, the first thing is to look at the drive chain (if it has one). If that looks uncared for, then you can 'bet your left one' that the rest of the show isn't worth watching.

GUNR had a past life as a floozy in Sydney where she was a rental (a 'town bike' if you will) and left to the ravishes of the seaside elements. Luckily she's a tough bint and sports no clothing from the 'Tupperwear Tree' like the competition's fleeting offerings.

As I was saying...the chain; with a cursory glance it might have looked clean, but if you can't discern the copper-coloured rivets of the joining link then it's time for a spruce up. Ah, but he things you forget after you've been out of the game for so long. After spending ample time cleaning the chain, the next rotation it's chockas with crud. I bends down and has a gander up to see half a market garden staring back at me from under the chain guard / compost bin. Off with the chain guard and try again.

That's when I spy that the 530 chain has almost cut through the 'chain pad' which is mounted on the swing arm, supposedly to protect both the upper run of the chain and the swingarm itself.
The chain tension is fine, the heavy duty chain is in good shape.

Q: Is it normal for the top run of the chain to ride on the rubber chain pad? It seems strange to me if it was designed that way. Any enlightenment gratefully received.

[gizzo]

Welcome aboard and congrats! It sounds like your son is a keeper  .

The chain will run on the rubber buffer while you're not on the bike but it clears it when loaded up. Same goes for the bottom run: Mine sags so that I can hear it rubbing on the centre stand when I'm pushing it along. I've welded little flat bar pads onto the round feet to make it slide around less on my concrete floor. They stick up a bit further than the round feet when the stand's retracted and the saggy chain just contacts the pad. Once the suspension is loaded up the sag is correct though. But it looks way loose unladen.

OTOH if your one has almost cut through the pad on top of the swingarm, maybe the chain is a bit loose. That'd be no surprise for an ex rental. Perhaps it happened while the OEM chain was still on?

[GUNR]

I've welded little flat bar pads onto the round feet to make it slide around less on my concrete floor. They stick up a bit further than the round feet when the stand's retracted and the saggy chain just contacts the pad.

Now that would have been handy for me on the main stand of the Norton when it was idling in the garage at home with my girlfriend on the tank 'enjoying the ceiling view'
Thanks for the welcome Gizzo. I've enjoyed the wealth of information and camaraderie here on the forum so thought I'd better introduce myself.

[GUNR]

Salt air had certainly prematurely aged the poor girl, as evidenced by what I saw upon removing the left side cover.

I thought to myself 'distant waterway' (far canal) and proceeded to dismantle the battery carrier so I could give it a dose of rust killer until the replacement part arrived.

All bolts came out (yes, even the pesky little 8mm headed mongrel directly under the rear of the petrol tank which meant removing the 2 tank retaining bolts and chocking the tank up with a block of wood). Then I find the 'captive nut' welded to the bottom rear of the battery carrier has a bolt running the opposite way that it should, i.e. the bolt head is between the tool box and the rear mudguard and its nut is facing the tyre Balldrick on this forum has advised me that to perform a battery carrier extraction requires the removal of the air box

[GUNR]

Until the air box comes out, this will have to suffice. How do we go about correcting salt corroded crankcases? I don't think I'll be resorting to the old 'wet & dry' sand paper under water in the bath tub like I did with the Norton's crankcases when sprung by Mum. She had a great sense of humour which I on occasion surely must have tried; all she said was "I hope you can remove that bath ring before your father gets home".

[gizzo]

We had a conversation about this a few weeks ago . I suggested that if it were me, I'd remove a slice of the plastic tool box with a box cutter knife to make room for that screw to come out. Its only a tool box.

[GUNR]

Thanks Gizzo I do remember. I may resort to cutting the tool box after I remove the air box as Balldrick had to do. He had a 'see through' bike so he must have had a LiPo battery and hidden it well.

[GUNR]

The woeful slop in the pivots for both the gear shift and rear brake will be addressed by rolled bushes mentioned elsewhere in the CGT forum (if I can find a mandrel the right size on which to roll the bronze or brass  strip). New rose joints should remove a lot of play from the gear shifter, but that brake pedal...
The rear brake pedal is only adjustable for the take up 'throw' when used which leaves no opportunity to alter the brake pedal relative to the foot rest.
Q: Has anyone devised a method to alter the angle (preferably downward) of the brake pedal?

It's a pain in the ankle when your foot is horizontal while your arms are reaching for the clipons.

[gizzo]

Never really thought about that. It's a little bit irritating for a few moments when I've been riding a Different Bike but I get used to it very quickly. But I know what you mean. Its in a weird orientation.

[GUNR]

Pricey CNC machined rearsets have a multiple pin arrangement so that the pedal to footpeg angle can be adjusted by rotating to another pin location. Our gear levers can be adjusted via the spline and linkage rod, but the brake is devoid of this. I suppose a double reconstruction of my right ankle doesn't help matters.

[gizzo]

Pricey CNC machined rearsets have multiple a pin arrangement so that the pedal to footpeg angle can be adjusted by rotating to another pin location.

That makes sense. That must be what the ring of bolt holes around the hub on Barleycorn rearsets is all about. I've often noticed but never bothered to look into the why.

If you were up for a bit of fabrication, you could make an adjustable pedal stopper and shorten the pushrod or raise the MC...

[GUNR]

If you were up for a bit of fabrication, you could make an adjustable pedal stopper and shorten the pushrod or raise the MC...

MC?

[gizzo]

Master Cylinder

[GUNR]

I found it! I knew somebody would have solved the problem. Taurim's thread about his 'slightly modified' CGT has the answer on page 25 where he describes drilling a hole in the brake pedal stop and then screwing in a 4mm bolt.
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=29864.msg393841#msg393841
Well done Taurim.

[Taurim]

I found it! I knew somebody would have solved the problem. Taurim's thread about his 'slightly modified' CGT has the answer on page 25 where he describes drilling a hole in the brake pedal stop and then screwing in a 4mm bolt.
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=29864.msg393841#msg393841
Well done Taurim.

 

[GUNR]

My 'care package' arrived from Mr. H. Less than a week to travel from the Northern Hemisphere to me in Australia; DHL you are impressive.

The steering stem clock, CNC alloy cable guides, screw in mirror blanks all were installed before tackling the 'chain pad'. The original bolts into the swingarm are 6mm longer than the replacements (see attached) and are consequently fun to extract without removing the rear wheel.

While bolting in the chain pad I looked up to see what is referred to in Hitchcocks online parts catalogue as an 'adaptor without PAV connection' (part# 573146) and mine exhibited the cracking from being left in the sun up until it came to me (see attached).
Q: Is there a source for this part within Australia?

I noticed the manufacturing date marks on the tyres: front 2012 , rear 2019. A 4yr old tyre (130 / 80) I can live with, but the 11yr old front tyre (on an 8yr old bike) will need to be swapped out. Our local road surfaces are 'rough as guts' with pot holes and lumps from crude patching, whereas the highways are smoother but straighter and boring as hell for a bike like this which wants to tackle chicanes and blast 'round sweepers all day.
I've been reading the old tyre posts and remember getting reasonable cornering from Dunlop TT100s, but technology has moved on so I'm aiming for a set of Sport Demons to see how they stick from new.

The new chain guard seems to sit higher off the chain than the old plastic one.
Q: Can someone who has one os these fitted please verify for me?

[gizzo]

FWIW, and my 2c, the rubber components on Royal Enfields are garbage and need replacing sooner or later. Including that inlet stub. I think mine came from H. You might find them on ebay. For whatever reason, the H one hasn't perished like the OEM one even though I'm assuming they come from the same source. It'll run better without air leaking through those cracks.

While you have the tank off you might as well change the fuel injector hose. On early bikes like yours and mine, the hose was too short and had a kink that some people though caused fuel starvation and maybe cutting out issues. Also, being Enfield rubber, it perishes and cracks. High pressure fuel spraying over the engine is not a good look. Get a meter of high pressure fuel line from Supercheap or Autobarn and make a new one. Be careful when you pull the hose out. Ham fisted operators report the fuel pump outlet stub breaks off easily.

If you do another order from H, maybe consider getting a set of the instrument vibration damping rubber things. They're cheap and they fit properly. Also stops the clock bracket disintegrating.

Finally I conclude this round by suggesting a replacement primary chain. The stock one is questionable quality, there have been catastrophic failures and the Reynolds or Iwis ones from H are not expensive. The chain tensioner in there is a stupid design, too. It overtightens the chain. I bodgied mine by taking the spring out. It's manual adjusting now but I haven't needed to touch it in a few years. 
While the primary cover is off, check the clutch and crank sprocket nuts and bolts are tight. Maybe put some loctite on them to be sure.

That'll keep you busy for a little while 

[GUNR]

Thanks for the fuel hose suggestion; there must've been a reason I finally joined the Supercheap club and saved $26 off my 8 litres of Penrite MC4ST 15W 50. I've installed my anti vibration rubbers which don't wobble as much as the ones in the 2 videos I have seen.
I think the cylinder head 'anti ping' rubbers might be coming off soon for a cleaner look and possibly better cooling.

Now is when I find out if there are any Australian RE dealers who keep spares for the UCE big bangers.
That cracked rubber stub might just get the black amalgam (sticks only to itself) tape treatment as an interim measure. The Dobeck EJK arrives today and I'm keen to check it out.

Q: Can you source new brake pedal springs locally? Mine have almost rusted through.

[gizzo]

. I've installed my anti vibration rubbers which don't wobble as much as the ones in the 2 videos I have seen.


Q: Can you source new brake pedal springs locally? Mine have almost rusted through.

That's good. My gauges flop around like a cock in a sock but I'm not bothered.

There's a spring factory near my house so that's where I go for springs .

[GUNR]

I've had a few deliveries of new parts lately, not that I need to justify the purchases...

[GUNR]

It looks like riding this weekend is out of the question. On closer inspection, the inlet rocker cover is missing its left hand screw. I'll have to replace that as well as the perished rubber washers on all 4 rocker cover screws (they look like a new steel roof on a Friday when the roofers rattled the screws in quickly to scamper off to the 'rubbidy' for a schooner or 3.

[gizzo]

(they look like a new steel roof on a Friday when the roofers rattled the screws in quickly to scamper off to the 'rubbidy' for a schooner or 3.

shakes head in American 

Seriously tho. Its amazing that oil wasn't pissing out that hole with a missing screw.

[GUNR]

Maybe that rocker cover screw has been replaced by...who knows what? I was hoping to ride off the nearly full tank to make it easier to remove, but that's not an option. Fortunately Motociclo (Guzzi and RE dealer in Sydney) checked with the RE warehouse in Melbourne which has the rubber inlet stub so they'll most likely have the screws and springs which I'm after. Another beautiful 24C Winter's day tomorrow and I'm sitting waiting for parts. I'd better add a Renold primary chain and left cover gasket to my shopping list.

[gizzo]

Maybe that rocker cover screw has been replaced by...who knows what? I was hoping to ride off the nearly full tank to make it easier to remove, but that's not an option. Fortunately Motociclo (Guzzi and RE dealer in Sydney) checked with the RE warehouse in Melbourne which has the rubber inlet stub so they'll most likely have the screws and springs which I'm after. Another beautiful 24C Winter's day tomorrow and I'm sitting waiting for parts. I'd better add a Renold primary chain and left cover gasket to my shopping list.

There's no gasket that side. Just sealed with slaz.

[GUNR]

Mine has a left cover gasket; this one. Part #570410

[gizzo]

Huh.  There you go. Mine never had one.

[KC1961]

Mine never had a gasket, just a thin strip of sealer. I fitted a gasket after fitting a Renolds chain.

[GUNR]

Now that I have my own Haynes manual, I discovered that the torque settings are located at the end of each chapter. I created a spreadsheet which includes; the fitting, torque (Nm), chapter number and chapter topic.

When I sorted the spreadsheet by the torque column, I found that I need to finally (in my 70th year)  buy my first torque wrench (which will need a range from 6Nm - 75Nm). I was looking for the torque setting for the rocker cover bolts as they have sensitive looking rubber washers under their heads. Now I've got my bike's list of torque settings as a quick reference on my phone instead of dirtying the Haynes manual when working.

The only torque wrench I can find is a top shelf Australian brand (Warren & Brown).
Do any of you Aussie members know of something available that is cheaper than $259 for a 1/2" drive 5 - 120Nm deflecting beam type?

I noticed that the manual has a torque setting for the LH engine case (10Nm) but nothing for the RH case. Would they be the same?

I'll try to attach a PDF from the torque list incase it is of use to anyone else. It is available as a Mac 'numbers' file or Xcel if reqd. Sorry about the varying thickness of some column / row lines

[gizzo]

I think you'll be hard pressed to find one torque wrench that covers that kind of range for any less money. I have 3 ratchet style ones, instead. a 1/4" from the bicycle tool shop and a 3/8" and 1/2" from the regular tool shop.

I do love those W&B deflection beam ones though.

The rocker cover bolts have the sealing washer on top but it's a shouldered bolt. When the shoulder bottoms out.that's when the torquing starts. The washer never gets fully compressed. You're right to be wary of over tightening though. Those bolts are made from engineering paneer as some have discovered. TBH the 1/4" is the one I use the most on this bike.

[GUNR]

It's just that there's no mention in my book of how much those rocker cover ones are to be tightened. The left hand inlet screw is AWOL and the other 3 screws are perished / over tightened and the right exhaust one is leaking 'bike blood'. My 1/4" el cheapo torque wrench supposedly handles 2 - 24Nm and has 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10mm Allen hex drives and T20, T25, T30 Torx heads as well as a cute little extension bar. I don't think something like this will be very accurate though.

[GUNR]

Haha, 'Paneer'...I remember the 'cheese head' type machine screws we used to encounter decades ago when none of the engineering fittings were comprised of stuff with the tensile strength of cheddar. I'm still on the hunt for a 30mm short handled spanner to use on the rear axle once the 24mm nut comes off. It's strange that the original tool kit should include a pair of tyre levers and 24mm spanner but there is no 30mm in the kit. Apparently some gas fittings require a 30mm so my hunt continues.

[GUNR]

All sorted; Supercheap ToolPro 1/2" drive 20 - 210Nm with reversible ratchet head for LH threads and only $79.95. I forgot I still had that 1/4" drive kit and the overlap of the two sets will suffice.

Any hints on how much to tighten the rocker screws? I'm dreading the thought of finding a snapped rather than missing screw in that inlet rocker cover (maybe that's why there wasn't any oil spurting out of it ).

[gizzo]

I don't know what others do but I just nip those screws up and go a tiny bit more. I'm guessing around 12nm on the torque elbow. Just a little bit, you know?. They only hold the lid down, not really doing any work.

 (and comparing what the 10nm I used on a Getrag 260 input housing this arvo feels like)

I guess they don't give you the 30mm tool because that nut doesn't need undoing to get the wheel out for puncture repairs? You only need to loosen that one to adjust the chain tension. A 12' shifter gets it done.

[GUNR]

A shifter is something I didn't want to carry with me (shades of the old pre unit Dominator and carrying a shifter, wire cutters and no.8 wire...you can tell where I grew up).

Now, about the loosey-goosey gear linkage and the pivots at both foot pegs. I don't have access to a lathe or even the skill to use one, so I guess I'll be grinding the ends of the rose / heim joints and replacing them. Then a coke can shim bunged in to take some of the slop out of those pivot points. I scared myself looking at the price of aftermarket 'universal' rearsets.

[gizzo]

A shifter is something I didn't want to carry with me (shades of the old pre unit Dominator and carrying a shifter, wire cutters and no.8 wire...you can tell where I grew up).

Now, about the loosey-goosey gear linkage and the pivots at both foot pegs. I don't have access to a lathe or even the skill to use one, so I guess I'll be grinding the ends of the rose / heim joints and replacing them. Then a coke can shim bunged in to take some of the slop out of those pivot points. I scared myself looking at the price of aftermarket 'universal' rearsets.

Maybe you could have your local laser cutter make you a custom short handle 30mm spanner from sheet metal?

Good luck with the shimming project. Hope it works out.

[GUNR]

Installed the Dobeck EJK tuner today. My tank is 3/4 full so I chocked the rear with a block of wood and had to remove the RHS head mount so that I could get to the EFI plug as it sits inbetween the two engine mounts. The exhaust header blanking plug was a doddle but do you think I could unplug the electrical connector at other end so I could insert the supplied electrical plug.

Q1: How the hell do you remove that plug?

Attached are 4 pictures that I took today, 3 of which show different empty connectors and the 4th (next to the HMC aluminium venturi) whose shape indicates that it should be mounted on a metal tab such as the relays under the LH side cover.

Q2: Can someone enlighten me as to what these are for?

As soon as I'm able to undo that plug in Q1, I'll test my Dobeck EJK and report the results.

[GUNR]

What a couple of days! I finally decided to install my EJK unit under the seat with the supplied velcro and a strip of 5mm thick rubber double sided sticky taped to the flat cross member forward of the rear mudguard. My vernier gave me 3.5mm safety margin between top of EJK unit and the bottom of the seat after the concave seat rubbers landed on the round section frame cross member; I'm happy with that.

I'd already mounted the HMC rubber speedo anti vibration mounts and was quite surprised that they didn't jiggle around while idling as reported by other owners. I mounted the Dart Classic fly screen brackets to the speedo mounts as instructed and boy they are the jigglers!

The Dobeck EJK is a ripper idea and immediately I was aware of the snappier throttle response. The bike seems to have so much more grunt now than it had previously. Entering onto the smooth highway (110kmh limit) overtaking a truck which was 20m in front of me, I grabbed a handful and she redlined no sweat in 3rd and then by the time she did the same in 4th, the truck was long gone. Talk about a big grin behind this visor. She's lost a fair amount of the farting and snap-crackle-pop on overrun from 3,000rpm, but can still produce those on demand. I'm not sure whether I sense a slight stutter from 1st to 2nd, so any EJK boffins out there with the remedy please chime in.

Another winner is the Air hawk air cushion which nullified the usual pain emanating from my much fractured pelvis/sacrum/coccyx area. The Air hawk 'pillion pad' in the picture is the smallest they sell and is a perfect fit for the CGT seat (otherwise I'd be limited to a much lesser distance travelled per day; and mine is a new one).

Q: Has anyone got a good solution (better than my interim gaffer tape) for the knackered battery terminal rubber covers?
Okay, so I'm running 4 leads to the -ve terminal (main earth, rectifier, CTek charger fly lead, EJK) and taping to the battery at least isolates the +ve leads from the steel sidecover .

Q: Are there any molded earplugs which are a higher attenuation than the 25dB musicians ones that I'm currently using? (The tinnitus is deafening after a ride...but the riding is addictive ).

[GUNR]

Another bonus of using the block of wood to raise the rear of the petrol tank to install the EJK: I could get a good look into the site of that supposedly 'missing' input rocker cover screw and found..it was occupied with its screw! One less job and one less part to order.

[gizzo]

Here you go
https://www.earjobs.com.au/collections/motorcycle-ear-plugs

I like the alpine motosafe race plugs. They're pretty quiet. A PITA to install but good once they're in.

[GUNR]

I had a look at the Alpine plugs but as you said they looked like a problem to fit (and to stay in place while putting on and removing a helmet) and also they couldn't provide more protection than my current ones; thanks anyway for the suggestion. The Resound ones I use were moulded to my ears by an audiologist a few years ago, are really easy to change the various attenuation baffles on them and a cinch to fit. The price hasn't changed in more than 10yrs; here's a link. https://customisedhearing.com.au/store/ols/products/gn-resound-musicians-hearsavers-custom-ear-plugs

Attached is a pic of my silicon plugs with white coded 25dB baffles installed; green pair and red pair are 10dB and 15dB and the dinky pocket friendly case and earplug moulding is included in the price. (When playing 8 key wooden concert flutes I use a stronger baffle in the ear closest to the flute)
My problem probably started with attending loud concerts 30+yrs ago (i.e. Rory Gallagher, the 'Oils', AccaDacca, Rose Tattoo, Little Feat etc. you get the drift).

[gizzo]

I had a look at the Alpine plugs but as you said they looked like a problem to fit (and to stay in place while putting on and removing a helmet) and also they couldn't provide more protection than my current ones; thanks anyway for the suggestion. The Resound ones I use were moulded to my ears by an audiologist a few years ago, are really easy to change the various attenuation baffles on them and a cinch to fit. The price hasn't changed in more than 10yrs; here's a link. https://customisedhearing.com.au/store/ols/products/gn-resound-musicians-hearsavers-custom-ear-plugs

Attached is a pic of my silicon plugs with white coded 25dB baffles installed; green pair and red pair are 10dB and 15dB and the dinky pocket friendly case and earplug moulding is included in the price. (When playing 8 key wooden concert flutes I use a stronger baffle in the ear closest to the flute)
My problem probably started with attending loud concerts 30+yrs ago (i.e. Rory Gallagher, the 'Oils', AccaDacca, Rose Tattoo, Little Feat etc. you get the drift).

The alpine ones come with a little tool for inserting. Once they're in, no problem with the helmet. And they're very quiet. I bought a pack with the race and touring versions and only used the touring once. Not quiet enough for me.

Agree that the music ones aren't good enough.

[GUNR]

Are the Alpine Race plugs a ‘one-size-fits-all’, or how would you best calculate the correct size for your ear canal?

[gizzo]

Are the Alpine Race plugs a ‘one-size-fits-all’, or how would you best calculate the correct size for your ear canal?

Just a 1 size fits all. They're pretty squashy.
 The same company used to do some really nice silicone plugs with 3 replaceable filters for music, other things, and motorsport. They were excellent. Better than the Alpine ones. But they don't seem to be available anymore. I'm pretty interested to try moulded ones at some point.

[gizzo]

I misremembered where I got those ones from. They're a different brand. Silly me.

Here they are:

https://www.earpeace.com/products/copy-of-moto-original

These are the bomb.

Also, if you can contrive to have a piece of polar fleece stay around your ear when you pull your helmet on, it makes a vast difference to the wind noise. I use a fleece neck muff, sometimes it stays up there, sometimes not. And gets hot in summer.

[GUNR]

Thanks Gizzo; I've ordered a set of those ear plugs and they are winging their way to me. I'm also looking at the 'Windjammer Pro II' device which fits around the helmet base to help block out the wind roar.

Today was a productive one for me as I finally addressed the rear brake feel (previously wooden) and its angle to the foot peg (horizontal and potentially dangerous).

A couple of 2cm wide strips of soft drink can made up the shims necessary to remove the lateral slop from the brake pedal pivot, combined with lashings of the good old black molybdenum grease.
Another member on this forum had adjusted his brake pedal angle by drilling, tapping and then fitting a screw into the brake pedal stop so that the screw's head provided a steeper pedal angle.
I didn't have any taps or screw the correct size, so I just drilled a hole in the stop and fitted an 1/8" rivet so that its tail could achieve the same thing. It worked well.

The new pedal angle means that it also covers the lowest of the frame mount bracket screws. This means that first I had to mount the brake bracket with the 2 biggest screws (to the frame), shorten an Allen key by 1cm so that I could lay down and fit the foot peg screw in from behind the bracket.
Then it was just a case of adjusting the brake light sensitivity.

The rear brake fluid looked like brown river water, so I bled all that out while feeding in the fresh green Dot 4 fluid.
I can recommend the HMC 1 way brake bleeding device; it worked a treat. If you happen to have a short, squat can (I used one that had contained apples) the can won't tip over when you're brake bleeding, you don't have to hold onto it or watch it and best of all, if it still has its tear tab on the lid you are able to stabilise the drain tube by feeding it through the ring pull.

[Taurim]

Nice 

If it is Aluminum POP rivet I think that sooner or later it will disappear.
If this happens you shoudl try a stainless rivet.

[GUNR]

I didn't know how strong the aluminium was and wasn't game to use a stainless steel rivet. It only has the force of the brake pedal return spring acting against it; but I'll keep an eye on it until I can grab a 4mm tap and screw just like you did. I'm still envious of that plush bike seat of yours whenever I see a picture of it.

[Taurim]

You should ask your local upholsterer and show him photos of my seat

[GUNR]

Today was meant to be;
1. Breeze through the bleeding out of the old front brake fluid and the infusion of the new.
2. Extend the wires of the two horns so they can be relocated at the two bolts behind the engine.

Well, as the Robert Burns poem says "the best laid plans of mice and men gang aft a-gley".
The front brake master cylinder has 2 screws and the 1st was a breeze to remove, but the 2nd...
After multiple screwdrivers, impact driver and then attempting to drift the screw around with an old screwdriver, I shelved the idea and got my gear on to go for a ride for the parts to extend the horn wires.

So now it looks like I'm going to be up for a new master cylinder; I'll add it to my next shopping list from Mr. H.

[GUNR]

Thanks Gizzo for your link to the 'Earpeace Moto' ear plugs. They are 'the berries' for sure; the best ear plugs I've ever used.
For those of you who haven't heard of them, they comprise of 6 ear plugs (a pair of standard size, a pair of large size and a spare plug for each size). In addition there are 9 baffles (3 pairs of varying attenuation which also includes a spare for each pair). The aluminium case has a threaded, O-ring protected lid which holds a pair of ear plugs with their baffles, while the opposite end of the case unscrews to reveal space for a third spare plug and baffle. The aluminium case has a key ring clip attached but mine is safer in the pocket of my bike jacket.
A really well thought out 'piece of kit' as they would say in the UK and good protection for $30.
Thanks again mate; well done.

[gizzo]

Ah, I'm glad you like them!

[GUNR]

Although the soft drink can 'shims' took out a lot of slop in the foot pegs, I found a local engineer who replaced them with bronze bushes. Now the gear shifting is so much smoother and no more missed gear changes or false neutrals!  I'll check out a bearing supplier tomorrow for the new LH and RH threaded shifter ball joints.

After mounting my 2nd hand horns in their original position (when I got the bike it had one rusted out horn mounted under the steering head) I noticed that after a ride the oil temperature was 90C instead of the usual 80C. Tomorrow I'll see if mounting the horns behind the engine block enables the motor to run cooler (the horns actually sound louder in that position).

[GUNR]

Well, the relocation of the horns to behind the block dropped the oil temp. from 90C back to 80C. The horns do sound louder in that position. All I did was fold the horn and O2 sensor wiring up over the fuel tank front locating rubbers and feed the wiring along the frame's top rail and then down to the horns. The horns are mounted using the prongs on the horn brackets as a sort of spring washer so that they can be nipped up tight. On with the next jobs.

[GUNR]

During the last few days I've;

Finally removed the stuck screw in the front brake reservoir lid so that I could bleed the brake (see separate post).

Installed new EBC FA213 sintered pads in the rear disc calliper. It was simple to remove the old ones and fit the new ones but the back of the 'pushed' pad was so rusted I thought I'd better pop out the axle to ensure that the brake piston was fully retracted.
That's the first time I've removed the calliper from the axle and that spacer is a right bastard when it drops down and you have to reinstate it (I suppose I'm not the first to experience that...).

Installed the Beston doubled walled GT hand grips from Trojan Motorcycles (thanks StreetKleaver). If you have arthritis in your wrists or find that the standard grips are too hard or narrow, try these. They were around AUD$17 and are so comfortable (without being squishy like foam ones).
At the same time I fitted Hitchcocks good looking aluminium handlebar end replacements for the originals which are a right PITA.

Installed a new centre stand rubber to withstand (unintended pun) the shock of retraction caused by the two strong springs. The old pad had almost been cut through and in this picture you can see how much damage to the new one has been done during the last few days.

Recently, when I had the petrol tank propped up with a small block of wood while fitting the Dobeck EJK, I noticed that the ECU rubber holder had split. I managed to fit the new one without removing the tank (only because I now discover that the fuel level sender electrical connection needs more persuasion to disconnect).

Soon will be the fork upgrades as per Gizzo and StreetKleaver (thanks guys for documenting your efforts and helping with constructive PMs).

[GUNR]

I fitted the Hagon shocks from H's and the light weight springs are perfect for my weight. On 10/20 of the damping settings, it transformed the back end so it doesn't catapult me out of the saddle over every sudden road irregularity.

Jacking the wheel and swingarm was an exercise until I reminded the missus how a fulcrum and lever works so that she could push down easily on one end of the lever and the fulcrum (the head of a rubber mallet) did the magic. While she marvelled at how little effort was required on her part to lift the rear of the bike's undercarriage, I agreed and bunged in the bolts. No arm lengthening stretching required.

A couple of posts back you could see how oxidised and disgusting looking the crankcases were when my bike arrived. Lately I've been collecting various grades of 'wet and dry' sandpaper and it has been worth the effort. I folded each sheet in half and then again in 3 before soaking them for 10mins or so. The grades I used were; 600, 800, 1200 and the aluminium polish was applied with 0000 steel wool before being buffed off with a soft cloth. The wet sandpaper has to be constantly dipped in the water to keep the floating process happening on the metal rather than pressure which results in scouring.
This will take some time and the results of my efforts are satisfying.

[GUNR]

In addition to a more comfortable ride and better handling, there was also a weight saving aspect.

Paioli = 2.2kg
Hagon = 1.6kg

So there’s a total of 1.2kg weight loss.

[gizzo]

Engine case looks mint. Nice work.

[GUNR]

Well, I got carried away and spent today sanding, sanding, sanding and finally polishing the right crankcase. I thought I'd start with the ugliest and most corroded side first. About $10 dollars worth of sandpaper, changing the water a few times and occasionally wiping the surface so the rubbish is washed off and taking my time for a satisfying finish. It has to be worth a couple of kph faster

[GUNR]

Now that I have completed the crankcase sanding/polishing I thought I'd have another look at replacing the rubber inlet stub for the EFI. At the same time I'd like to replace the rubber connecting to the airbox as I have both articles ready to go. This will mean that I can also try to sort out the correct Dobeck EJK fuelling.

Neither the rubber hose between the airbox and TB, or the rubber inlet stub have any fore and aft movement when their clamps are loosened. To achieve this looks like a removal of the airbox is required, but I'm stuffed if I can figure out how that can be done.

It'll mean that the forks upgrade will be next off the rank.

[GUNR]

I noticed that my number plate had developed stress fractures in line with the only 2 screws which were fixing it to the bike. These plates are stamped out of very thin aluminium sheet and have a 'strengthening ridge' stamped around their outside. I filled that ridge with metal putty which I then filed and sanded down flat with the plate's back.

A 3mm sheet of aluminium now provides much better support and the number plate is fixed to that sheet by screws in all 4 corners.

[GUNR]

Recently I read how 'Dinasaur' (sic) replaced his loose gear shift linkages (I don't know how to insert the link so will just show you where it is). Thanks Dinasaur!

Re: What did you do to your RE Continental GT today?
Reply #1346 on: July 26, 2021, 02:05:12 pm

Today I got around to grinding off and punching out the crap cheap original ball end joints and replaced them with good quality replaceable units. These 6mm rose joints have tiny grease nipples so it looks like I need to buy my first grease gun

What a change to be able to select neutral from 2nd gear when slowing down to a stop (instead of shuffling up and down trying to find neutral after I'm stopped).
I've always thought it safer not to rely on front brake and clutch levers at a stop sign to prevent being launched into a busy intersection.

[GUNR]

While finally managing to fit the new side stand today, I noticed the nice angle of the gear shifter and thought I'd sort out the rear brake pedal angle properly. The pop rivet I'd put in the brake stop hadn't really made much difference to the angle and I was finding that my foot felt like it was either tilted out to the side or strained by having my toes not pointing down in a relaxed position over the brake pedal.

Taurim was right on the money with his method of drilling and tapping a thread for an M4 screw so that the head of it would act as the pedal stop. Oh, and running out of split pins meant I had to reuse the one for the brake's clevis pin and what a bastard of thing it is fitting it by feel. Also, a perfectly good Allen key had to have its short end truncated further to remove and fit the right footrest because once the brake pedal angle is brought down, it obscures entry to one of the two bracket bolts.

I used an Allen head screw which just protruded through the other side far enough for me to use a Nyloc nut. The head of the screw has the desired effect of having my foot relaxed, over the pedal and also not hitting the exhaust.
The two time consuming parts were 'Stretching' the brake light switch's spring so that the light wasn't always on and using a Dremel type tool to rout a channel for the head of the Allen screw so that it could come up close to the brake stop.

[Taurim]

 

[GUNR]

The postie arrived this morning bearing a package from India. For a while I've been able to smell petrol when near the bike and on inspection I saw that the cap’s rubber washer was cracked and dry. I got a good deal from India; new cap, ignition switch and side cover lock all for $105 delivered! When she came into my care, the bike had one key for ignition and tank and a smaller different one for the side cover. Now one key for everything makes life easier.

Replacing the ignition switch entailed removing the headlight shell (to access the two switch mounting bolts and to disconnect the electrical connector which resides in there). When I saw the rust in the headlight shell I'll now be getting a new one earlier rather than later...with possibly an LED replacement lens unit. The parking light (I presume that's what it is) has no fitting anymore as it has corroded away so I'll have to investigate whether the new LED replacements accomodate this function.

These pictures give an idea of how salt air can affect steel when a bike lives on the coast and isn't protected from the sea air. Tomorrow I'll get back to the list of things that were delayed by today's modifications.

[gizzo]

The rust on yours is incredible. Mine looks like new compared with that. How'd you go with the battery tray?

[GUNR]

Funny you should ask that. It hasn't been revisited since our last discussion. I've got so many tools in that little tool compartment that I don't fancy hacking into it just yet. I saw a post recently somewhere in these forums where the guy said you need to remove the rear wheel (and inner mudguard I'm presuming) to be able to remove the airbox, which would give me access to the battery carrier.

I've rust guarded as much as I can get to and I'll devise something to cut the head off that lowest battery carrier bolt that's been put in the wrong way. Then I'll be able to unwind the rest of the bolt and pull it out from the wheel side of the mudguard. I have no idea on how much clearance there is for the carrier removal or even if it can be extracted from the side.

Tomorrow I have to decide my priorities for bike preparations for the good club ride in the weekend (it includes The Bucket Way and Thunderbolts Way).
Option #1 Drop the forks, drill the damper rods, install YSS springs and PDV valves
Option #2 Replace the EFI inlet stub and do an EJK AFR tune

Decisions, decisions...I'm opting for 'option 1' as good handling would increase the fun factor

[GUNR]

Friday 13th was hectic and it took longer for me to upgrade the OEM Gabriel forks than I had anticipated. I had it all back together and tools packed away at just after midnight so about 5hrs sleep was all I could manage before depart for the ride on Saturday morning.

Thanks to Gizzo and Streetkleaver for their information about their YSS upgrades. Here's the link to Streetkleaver's.

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=32482.225

I did as Gizzo suggested; I used a tomahawk to chop the end of a broom handle into a square taper which locked into the top of the damper rod. For the damper rod 8mm socket head screw I used a grinder to cut off the short end and then mounted it into the chuck of my old Makita hammer drill and using it in reverse the screw loosened easily.

Assembling the forks was a PITA as I had to 'dry fit' them both 4 or 5 times until I realised that the spindle taper (number 10 in the diagram) was rattling in the for bottom as they can flip upside down. They have to act as a cup to hold the bottom of the damper rod, but when they're upside down the 8mm socket screw isn't long enough to engage the thread in the bottom of the damper rod. At 10:30pm a headlight torch, philips screwdriver inserted into the bottom of the fork leg to line the spindle taper hole up with the damper rod when it is dropped down, bung in the fork guts for the dry fit, with the fork upright, spin the stanchion with one hand while exerting pressure on the 22mm fork crown nut (ensuring that the bloody flat disc washer doesn't slide out again...then remove the philips screwdriver and install the copper washer and 8mm socket screw in the bottom of the fork.
The dry fitted components felt much better than the originals already.

Then, pull everything out again (except the damper), put in the oil, use the long 'gherkin grabber' to grab the top of the YSS PDV valve and locate it into the top of the damper rod before sealing the lot together. I also used Streetkleaver's idea of Loctite 567 just incase I needed to revisit these forks in the future.

Wouldn't it have been nice to simply adjust our headlight's vertical and horizontal aim with screws at 12 o'clock and 9 o'clock like other bikes instead of guessing the gap for the headlight brackets and tightening up the screws while holding the headlight's wiring out of the way. I carried a 12mm spanner in my pocket incase I had to adjust the vertical aspect, but to fine tune the lateral adjustment means dropping the headlight out...and so it goes.
Tomorrow and Sunday the suspension test over more than 600km of high country corners

[gizzo]

Awesome. What route are you taking?

[GUNR]

Awesome. What route are you taking?

The Route
As much of the old highway from Kempsey to Port Macquarie, then boring highway to Taree. The Bucketts Way to Gloucester, then The Thunderbolts Way to Walcha. Ten bikes from the club (most of them took off at ridiculous speeds while 3 of us enjoyed the corners, the sights of the Spring lambs bouncing around in the paddocks, wallabies sitting up at the side of the road having a gawk at us and of course dodging the ever-present 'roo road kill.

At the motel at Walcha, there were 3 cars and at least 30 bikes ranging from one small GT535 to KTM RC8s with auxiliary fuel tanks, Harleys of every size and even a couple of the grouse Vulcan 650 goers.
Apparently there was a huge dirt bash going on nearby that weekend and guys had rocked up from Queensland.
On Sunday morning, three of us split from the group who were heading North up to Ebor, Dorrigo, Armidale. Instead we decided on what has to be one of the greatest motorcycling roads on the planet; The 300 corners of the Oxley Highway heading East from Walcha to Port Macquarie. Those 65 / 75 / 80km/h signs at the corners are only a guideline, BUT  the 25 / 35 / 45km/h signs can be the difference between life and death! Armco barriers 'protecting' you from a precipitous drop on one side and the other is a vertical rock face and surprise tightening-radius corners; what a blast!

Hey Gizzo, you'd have to rotate your muffler clamp around further

I covered just over 620km and found that kick starting is less embarrassing than the starter motor churning over repeatedly.

The YSS fork upgrade results
I didn't have time to test the fork improvement before I left on Saturday morning, but as soon as I traversed my driveway apron down to the cambered road, I knew the forks had undergone a change that was transformational. I'd delved into the progressive vs linear fork spring debate and discovered these comments on a forum which made me thankfully choose the linear springs which I find so compliant. The front end now floats over obstacles (particularly those tarmac patches which sit proud from the surface of the road - we know the ones!).
Thanks again to Streetkleaver for the feedback on his linear springs and also for the Loctite 567 idea for the damper rod screw.

Linear vs progressive fork springs
Progressive springs give you a plush feel for the first part of fork travel, but have a stiff secondary winding, so once you blow through the first part of travel you have a very harsh feel as the fork compresses.
A linear winding will be stiffer initially but will have a softer spring rate than the secondary rate on a progressive spring. Overall, the linear will give a better performance on rough roads.

Progressive springs are a big advantage to resellers, as it allows them to have lower overheads (fewer items). However, progressives tend to be a jack of all, master of none solution. As mentioned above, too plush then too hard.

If you are spending the money on your ride, then I would always go with a proper linear spring rate setup for you. The problem with progressive springs is that you cannot valve the forks to suit the spring, as its rate is constantly changing. So if re-valving, then it is best to go for linear springs to suit your weight/style.

[GUNR]

The only downer from that trip was (I thought) my stainless steel chain guard falling off after receiving a hammering from the rough surface of The Bucketts Way going up the mountain to Walcha. If I had checked and seen that I also had a loose, bent 4mm stainless steel spoke and heaps of stainless chain guard to aluminium rim gouges, I 'might' have taken it easier on the way down the mountain via the Oxley Highway. It was a helluva ride though

Now it looks like I'll be looking for a new wheel as I don't know if the hub flange is cracked of if the spoke's head has work its flange hole out of round.

[gizzo]

Freakin awesome. I was over there last month but in the car, no bike. Another time ...

Yeah I've already turned the clamp around. Have a new pipe project underway to tuck it up a bit higher. The side stand bracket is still a problem though...

The GT is a pretty cool little touring bike, yes?

[GUNR]

A bloody fantastic thumper and so happy to cruise 100 - 110km/h for 100s of km. And then of course that roll-on in top gear to 130 odd and she comes alive. What I find amazing is the handling especially on smoothly cutting back in after an overtaking manoeuvre. The frame and now the suspension comply beautifully while the engine room throbs, growls and then snarls. I love it and wouldn't trade it even though I tried on a Bonneville 900 SE for size and found I could flat foot on both sides (something I can't do on the GT).

Now where do I get a rear wheel in Oz?

[GUNR]

Up the mountain
The Bucketts Way, nice corners but crook surface. Thunderbolts Way is smoother from Gloucester to Walcha but is boring unless you're on something more powerful and can go for it. About 220km or so in that leg.

Down the mountain
What a hoot this section was. We got cracking early to beat the 'rice rockets' on their way up from the East as some of them don't keep to their side of the playing field (and it ain't that wide to start with). On the descent I was wary of the shadows over the road during the cool morning just in case there was the odd damp patch hiding.

[GUNR]

The side stand bracket is still a problem though...

When I was young and bullet proof, I had an episode with the side stand on my Honda CB350. I used to get into the corners and hills of Wellington (N.Z.) and of course the odd metallic scraping sound was to be expected. Coming back to work one day after zipping out to get some lunch, I stopped right outside work, flipped out the side stand and proceeded to step off. Luckily I'd got into a habit of applying the front brake while mounting and dismounting (Wellington's hills) as the little triangular side stand stop that's welded to the left front corner of the bottom frame rail...was ground right off.

Yep, the side stand flicked forward to a horizontal position while I did my best to steady the weight. Workmates and pedestrians thought it was a source of great humour.

[GUNR]

After that recent trip, I've been calculating the fuel consumption for some of the sections.
Normal is 29 - 30 km / litre (84 Imp. mpg)
The Oxley Highway leg, I still averaged 25 km / litre (70 Imp. mpg)
Outward leg Kempsey to Taree (115 km) 40 km / litre (113 Imp. mpg)

That last receipt I recalculated just to be sure I wasn't imagining things. The bike is always filled while on the centre stand and the max fuel level is always the bottom of the tank 'well'. This bike endears itself to me every time I ride it.

[GUNR]

We're in bush fire season here already this year and while the smoke pervades the air and the water-bombing helicopters fly back and forth overhead trailing their nozzles, I decided to tackle my crap looking fork brace. Just about all of the garish silver paint had already worn off, but the dark corrosion look that was left behind didn't appeal to me.

There has to be one doesn't there? Three out of four fork brace screws come out easily and the 4th needs to be coaxed out with vise grips. The domed head has a very shallow angle, so after it came out I was sure to use the aluminium never seize paste when fitting the new ones.

First I used paint stripper to remove the remaining paint and then I rinsed it in water. The fork brace's top surface was rather rough and as I wet and dry sanded it, I found that the dark speckled appearance wasn't clearing. I wonder if it has anything to do with the quality of the casting? In the end I clamped my trusty old drill into the Intrex vise with first a multi layer sisal and next a soft buffing wheel in the chuck. There are 2 types of polishing compounds, one for each application.

The fork brace was my practice for when I do the fork legs.
Can anyone suggest an efficient method for dealing with that sort of corrosion if I meet in when addressing the fork leg bottoms?

[gizzo]

After that recent trip, I've been calculating the fuel consumption for some of the sections.
Normal is 29 - 30 km / litre (84 Imp. mpg)
The Oxley Highway leg, I still averaged 25 km / litre (70 Imp. mpg)
Outward leg Kempsey to Taree (115 km) 40 km / litre (113 Imp. mpg)

That last receipt I recalculated just to be sure I wasn't imagining things. The bike is always filled while on the centre stand and the max fuel level is always the bottom of the tank 'well'. This bike endears itself to me every time I ride it.

That reflects my fuel consumption figures. Never poor, sometimes outstandingly economical.

[GUNR]

Torque settings in alphabetical order (derived from the Haynes manual) as I should have done earlier when I posted one in Nm order. I got sick of turning to the end of each chapter to find what I wanted, so now the PDF resides on my phone for quick reference.

[Beeza]

The previous owner of my bike polished the fork brace and also the fork legs, among other things, such as the headlamp brackets, for which I am grateful as I like the result but can do without the process. With only 900 miles on the bike, I’m sure he spent many hours fiddling for every hour he actually rode it. Maybe he just liked to polish it and sit on it making vroom vroom noises. I’ve put another five thousand on in a year.

He also had the front fender painted red to match, but I notice that H’s has a red one available. I actually put the front extension back on as I prefer the look. It seemed unbalanced with about as much aft as forward, as if it can’t make up its mind. In silver that is not as glaring.

Having a red splash at the front makes the bike look longer, to my eye, but the rear fender in red is not to my taste as you lose the contrast to the seat hump.

[GUNR]

The previous owner of my bike polished the fork brace and also the fork legs, among other things, such as the headlamp brackets, for which I am grateful as I like the result but can do without the process.

Wow Beeza, you got a bike that wasn't even run in and in better than showroom condition. The previous owner must have been fastidious in his bike care and you scored big time.

In contrast to yours, my bike had been mistreated by its previous owners and it is only through investigation that I am realising all of the problems which I need to address. The fork brace was so corroded that prior to sanding and polishing, I had to draw file some areas. Attached are photos of corrosion on the TB, petrol tank connection, rectifier and also the headlight bracket. The only way to protect the metal is to first strip it of any paint so that I can see what I'm dealing with and then polish and seal it to prevent it happening again. I'm sure that nothing was undercoated except the frame.

While lifting the tank I could see what a rat's nest the wiring was under there, so that will be another day.

I agree with you Beeza, I'd rather be riding than working on my bike, but unless I delve deeper I'm likely to miss something important (i.e. a safety issue - see next post ). At the moment I'm trying to get things done before the replacement spokes arrive because once that wheel is back in order, I'll be riding every day.

[GUNR]

Today was supposed to be dedicated to sorting out the perished rubber adapter in the inlet tract. The fuel pump connection finally came apart and also the fuel level sensor connection; the latter which showed the green of verdigris on its contacts. I cleaned them with isopropyl alcohol and a needle file before lightly greasing.

The problem was that the 2 'buttons' on the right angle fuel line connector wouldn't release for me, so I couldn't pop the tank off to get to work replacing the adapter. While the seat was off, I saw another issue which nobody else seems to have come across; the seat's plastic locating prong gets abraded by the steel hole which it locates into near the seat latch. I did a quick fix by cutting a slice of a rubber grommet and taped and zip tied it so that it protects the rear face of the prong. I'd like to know if anyone else has had this problem and if so, what their fix was.

[GUNR]

I'm feeling lucky! I've been blatting around on my CGT for a good few weeks and today I discover that only one end of the fuel line is hose clamped. First thing in the morning I'll be down to buy and install one! Now I know why several forum members have more than one bike; they can ride one and work on the other/others.

[Beeza]

When your other bike is an 8hp Honda S90, the Enfield becomes an all powerful beast. Plus, you retain the skill of momentum management.

Being able to wind it to the limit wide open most of the time and not get official attention is another feature. Tuck and roll.

[GUNR]

Back to the seat plastic projection wearing; has anyone experienced that and if so, what was their solution?

[gizzo]

Back to the seat plastic projection wearing; has anyone experienced that and if so, what was their solution?

Not an issue on my one .

[GUNR]

Gizzo, is yours an original seat? There must be some fore and aft movement going on to cause the abrasion, but I'm keeping an eye out for a grommet the right size while I'm also on the lookout for a replacement regulator/rectifier.

[gizzo]

Yes the original seat. It's been on there since new. Maybe there's a bit of misalignment in the location of the bracket on the frame? That would be no surprise.

I wouldn't be too worried by it but if I was I might Dremel the hole to make clearance and call it good.

[GUNR]

The club ride didn't happen this Sunday as only two of us turned up (two Daves) so we decided to rip up through the hills to Comboyne. What a ride; complete sides of the hill next to us had dropped off due to the drastic weather events we have here in Oz. The little 535 was having fun in the 25km/h hairpins and the other Dave very kindly slowed down enough on his Ducati 900 to 'show me the way' so I could learn the road.

On the Friday night I'd given the chain a well-deserved birthday so it would be ready for the weekend. The ride to Comboyne was great, but on the return leg I could swear I felt the odd squirming feeling especially on the off camber downhill high speed sweepers. A couple of times she almost had a wallow and I was thinking that I need to increase the damping on the Hagons...until I got home and saw what the culprit was. . The cleaning solution was dried off before a light coating of the lube was added, so next time it'll be less lube.

The zip tie is temporary until the new spokes arrive this week. The stainless steel chain guard was panel beated back into shape and its retention screws now have Loctite 243 to help secure it (so the guard won't jump through the spokes again).

[Beeza]

Is that the original Indian made chain? I have exactly the same pattern of splooge coming off mine and I hadn’t lubed it. I suspect that the o rings on the chain are of the same material as the breather hose and are allowing the grease inside to centrifuge off. I thought it could be oil, but it’s like a black moly grease. The lube I use is Maxima chain wax which is yellowish.

I have a new chain in the post which had the magic formula of being my favourite brand, EK and the model is SRX2 Quadra, which comes in a 100 link length and was on sale. It also has a patented connector which is its own press and the threaded screw part snaps off after the plates are pressed on. Hard to describe, but similar to a Shimano bicycle chain connector. I’ve used this chain before for heroic mileage. It’s an X ring chain, which is far more sophisticated and superior to o ring.

It looks as though the wheel creates its own centrifugal vortex and sucks the gunk in at the hub. My assumption is that the rear tire oiling/greasing will cease with the new chain. Unfortunately, the bike won’t see action again until March, boo hoo.

Is that the original Demon? Looks too new.

[gizzo]

Is that the original Indian made chain? I have exactly the same pattern of splooge coming off mine and I hadn’t lubed it. I suspect that the o rings on the chain are of the same material as the breather hose and are allowing the grease inside to centrifuge off. I thought it could be oil, but it’s like a black moly grease.

Same with my chain. The o rings were perished and half of them spat out. That chain was done at 10k km. I've put 55k km on the replacement DID x ring and haven't touched it, apart from an occasional clean. I have a remote chain oiling device that works well to keep it lubed and clean.

[GUNR]

I've pulled out the wheel to get the spokes looked at and I agree with you guys about the chain. The crap on the rim and tyre is like grease to get off instead of the Penrite chain lube which I sprayed on. The chain looks like it is a 530 and has always looked like it belongs on a more powerful bike. If I get a new chain, will I be up for new sprockets to match the new chain size?

I think I might be up for new cush drive rubbers after seeing the fatigue on these critters; what say you chaps?

[GUNR]

BTW Gizzo, I loosened off the 2 seat catch retention screws and managed to slide the bracket forward just enough to take the seat's plastic 'locating prong' out of the abrasion zone of the steel hole in which  it resides. I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner.

[Taurim]

You can find front and rear sprockets for 520 chain at HMC.
That's what I did on my 535 with a classic 520 chain (non O-ring) to regain some power at the wheel
With that I use a PTFE chain lube with very good results.

My cush drive rubbers were worse than that after 10 000 Km so I replaced them 1 year ago.

[gizzo]

I've pulled out the wheel to get the spokes looked at and I agree with you guys about the chain. The crap on the rim and tyre is like grease to get off instead of the Penrite chain lube which I sprayed on. The chain looks like it is a 530 and has always looked like it belongs on a more powerful bike. If I get a new chain, will I be up for new sprockets to match the new chain size?

I think I might be up for new cush drive rubbers after seeing the fatigue on these critters; what say you chaps?

Agree that the chain is way oversized. 530 belongs on a big Japanese 4. But I guess any smaller Indian made chain would not be able to cope with the huge power and torque of the mighty GT so there it is. My replacement DID 530 chain only just fits in there. It's a lot meatier than the OEM one. It's too bad the 520 sprockets from H are alloy ones. I'd rather steel.

I'd be changing the sprockets to be on the safe side and for good form. In my case, the front sprocket was a bit worn but the rear was like new and went again. It's still there.

The cush rubbers are grubby but look ok otherwise. They don't look split or mashed up. If the tongues on the other half of the hub fit neatly in there I'd clean it up and call it good.

BTW Gizzo, I loosened off the 2 seat catch retention screws and managed to slide the bracket forward just enough to take the seat's plastic 'locating prong' out of the abrasion zone of the steel hole in which  it resides. I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner.

Good catch! 

I'll see myself out...

[GUNR]

What a bitch of a job putting the rear wheel back in! A ridiculously orchestrated balance of axle inserted just enough to locate the chain adjuster hole while holding the brake hose down, left hand axle spacer in situ, spreading the disc pads, sliding the calliper over the disc rotor so the calliper body engages its bracket...and I've got my knee on a 3' length of timber with the rubber mallet's head acting as a fulcrum to lift the rear wheel.

There has to be a better way and I'd sure like to hear about it. In the end (because I couldn't see if all the parts were lining up as I levered up the wheel and inserted the axle) I called on the assistance of memsahib to actuate the lever while I reinstated the axle.
I gave the cush rubbers a basic cleanup and found all four of them split in more than 2 planes, so they'll all be due for replacement (after I find a better way to install the rear wheel).

Now I feel safer having all 36 spokes equally spreading the load. I'd cleaned the rear wheel prior to dropping it off at the LBS, so when I had it back together I thought I'd polish up the fron rim and spokes and found...yep, it has a slightly bent spoke as well. That spoke was probably affected by the excessive power and torque for which this model is known (as alluded to here by Gizzo).

[GUNR]

I've put 55k km on the replacement DID x ring and haven't touched it, apart from an occasional clean. I have a remote chain oiling device that works well to keep it lubed and clean.

Are you using something like a Scott oiler?
Where did you mount your crankcase breather catch bottle?

By the looks of it, a replacement chain would require a joining link that has to be riveted into place. The one that's on at the moment has copper coloured rivets securing it.

Do the chains come in a standard length and are joining links included?
Is a special chain breaker required for 530 chain?

I'm gathering info so I can gather the required parts before I embark on each task.

[gizzo]

Here's me putting my back wheel on in a minute and a half.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z24NHKayVpc

My tip: a block of decking timber (19mm IIRC) under the LHS centre stand foot tips the bike over just enough that you can pop the wheel in and feed the drive tongues into the cush drive as you rotate it up and in.

It's hard to see in the vid that the wheel is leaning away from the camera during this operation. That's important to get the clearance you need to get the wheel up into the cush hub.

I keep meaning to shave a few mm off the drive tongues so I can just lift it straight up and in. But I never bother.

[gizzo]

Are you using something like a Scott oiler?
Where did you mount your crankcase breather catch bottle?

By the looks of it, a replacement chain would require a joining link that has to be riveted into place. The one that's on at the moment has copper coloured rivets securing it.

Do the chains come in a standard length and are joining links included?
Is a special chain breaker required for 530 chain?

I'm gathering info so I can gather the required parts before I embark on each task.

I'm using this chain oiler

http://www.loobman.co.uk/

I have them on 3 bikes. They're simple and inexpensive.

Buy a chain with a master link that clips together instead of rivet. Easier and 100% safe. You'll buy a chain that has extra links and cut off the number of links to match your old chain. Use an angle grinder. You'll still need a chain breaker tool to separate the cut pieces and to install the new link unless you are mighty. It can be done but isn't easy.

I don't have a catch bottle on my CGT. I still have the hose running into the airbox. On the track bikes the can is somewhere convenient and lower than the breather outlets. Just ziptied to the frame or the motor. I use a 500ml juice bottle. It's really there to catch any spilled coolant or fuel if the bike lays down for some reason 

[GUNR]

Ah, so you put the spacer in after the calliper is in place? I didn't think there was enough wiggle room to fit it in after the calliper was over the disc rotor.

[gizzo]

Ah, so you put the spacer in after the calliper is in place? I didn't think there was enough wiggle room to fit it in after the calliper was over the disc rotor.

Yep

[GUNR]

I'm using this chain oiler

http://www.loobman.co.uk/
I have them on 3 bikes. They're simple and inexpensive.

They mention 10W 40 but in your experience what is the best oil for that oiler? I've got some 50W but I guess that's not going to drip very quickly.

Buy a chain with a master link that clips together instead of rivet. Easier and 100% safe. You'll buy a chain that has extra links and cut off the number of links to match your old chain. Use an angle grinder. You'll still need a chain breaker tool to separate the cut pieces and to install the new link unless you are mighty. It can be done but isn't easy.

On my velomobile I use 8 spd chain on the Rohloff hub and the chain requires a special piar of pliers to pull 2 rollers together and this frees the external plates of the joining link. Is it similar to that (of course a grinder is quicker when the chain gets to be 530 size)?

[gizzo]

They mention 10W 40 but in your experience what is the best oil for that oiler? I've got some 50W but I guess that's not going to drip very quickly.
On my velomobile I use 8 spd chain on the Rohloff hub and the chain requires a special piar of pliers to pull 2 rollers together and this frees the external plates of the joining link. Is it similar to that (of course a grinder is quicker when the chain gets to be 530 size)?

I use EP90 gear oil. Because it tends to stay where it's put and I have tons of it. It does flow slowly though.

Use one of these things

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114329562614

Plenty of youtubes to show how it's done.

looking for that wheel fitting vid took me down a bit of a rabbit hole. Here's my chinese clone of a Bailey Redhead pulse jet. Just for shits n giggles. Loudest thing I've ever heard .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghSjHuEYXLo

[Adrian II]

Pulse jets gone bad. They WERE very loud, my parents' generation just hoped they weren't underneath one when they heard the motor cut out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrD3zGtyXXY

A.

[Farmer_John]

Nice Ichiban moto shirt there Gizzo!

Here's me putting my back wheel on in a minute and a half.

[gizzo]

Nice Ichiban moto shirt there Gizzo!

It's badass. 5/5.

It's been a while, FJ. All good?

[GUNR]

My replacement DID 530 chain only just fits in there. It's a lot meatier than the OEM one. It's too bad the 520 sprockets from H are alloy ones. I'd rather steel.

I'd be changing the sprockets to be on the safe side and for good form. In my case, the front sprocket was a bit worn but the rear was like new and went again. It's still there.

Is this what you have on yours? I see it comes with a rivet link; can you get the joining links separately?

https://www.thevisorshop.com/en/au/DID-530-VX3-Gold-X-Ring-Chain-106-Links/m-23616.aspx?PartnerID=22&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shoppingAustralia&msclkid=09ad8443b27214cdbc53e1077002664f&utm_term=4578778762231086&utm_content=DI-Australia-S1%20-%20did

Regarding the countershaft sprocket; what a shame it is that to check  the wear / number of teeth / whether it's secured properly / swap out for a new one, you have to remove the whole RHS crankcase!
Whatever happened to a countershaft sprocket cover that you could remove in under a minute? I think I'll gather the 'makings' for an oil change which will be necessary...

[gizzo]

That's the chain I have but mine isn't gold and it came with a clip master link not a rivet one.

Having to pull the crankcase cover off to do the sprocket is a massive PITA and a fairly egregious design flaw. Who knows what they were smoking that day? At least it's not as bad as a Tiger Cub engine where you have to split the crankcases to change the front sprocket.

When you take the cover off, you'll also notice that there is not one, not even 2 but 3 kick start shaft seals, to ensure the best possible chance of having an oil leak. When the inner one leaks, it dribbles onto the chain, so that's good. Some people recommend changing the plastic oil pump gear while the cover's off. I never did but you might like to.

[GUNR]

When you take the cover off, you'll also notice that there is not one, not even 2 but 3 kick start shaft seals, to ensure the best possible chance of having an oil leak. When the inner one leaks, it dribbles onto the chain, so that's good. Some people recommend changing the plastic oil pump gear while the cover's off. I never did but you might like to.

Thanks for the heads up. That’s what this forum is for; sharing your experience and maybe making someone else’s journey a little smoother. Much appreciated mate.

[Farmer_John]

It's badass. 5/5.

It's been a while, FJ. All good?

All good sir. Finally made it into an Enfield dealer to sell them, so I can quit buying them!

[gizzo]

All good sir. Finally made it into an Enfield dealer to sell them, so I can quit buying them!

Good on you. You bought a Japanese bike, right?

[GUNR]

I've been looking for;
a) A black 530 x ring chain with clip link, but it looks like they're gold and all have riveted links.
b) Replacement plastic oil pump gear
c) The 3 seals for the kickstart

I thought I'd find a) and b) on the page below. Any suggestions?

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/4146

[gizzo]

a) Peter Stevens or ebay

b) email H and ask if they can supply. Or an Indian ebayer. Like I said, some people recommend changing the gear. I've never done it. 65,000km so far so good.

c) H's

[Beeza]

b. They’re astoundingly cheap, which gives me fears that they’re not made out of some wonder plastic as I had imagined. But, the pump doesn’t have to supply 50 psi to the plain bearings like a 650 so it just has to supply flow. Other than the lifters, there’s no back pressure. Rollers and such typically just have a few psi.

If it dies, the motor can run a while on what is splashing around, so when the valves pump down and start clacking you just pull the clutch and pull over. I’d consider putting in a new one, and keep the old one taped somewhere on the bike in the improbable case you might need it somewhere on a tour of Mongolia.

While we’re in the vicinity, the o ring that seals the pump to the cover is a single use item. Hitchcock’s sells an ‘approximately 10mm’ replacement which is actually some inch fraction. It will work, but I find an actual 10mm fits the recess much better, no surprise. At least they warned you with ‘approximately’, which was their excuse in their reply. There’s a lot of approximately in these bikes. I think the gasket is part of the squish factor on this ring so going without the gasket could be a risk.

Back in Mongolia, if you lean the bike over over maybe thirty degrees you could probably do whatever is needed behind either cover without draining the oil. This works for many bikes; some you hardly lose a drop.

[gizzo]

b. They’re astoundingly cheap, which gives me fears that they’re not made out of some wonder plastic as I had imagined.

From H?

[Beeza]

From H?

Yes, out of the parts list. Under ten pounds, but I don’t remember what it was. But then, it’s just a piece of plastic they made a few hundred thousand of.

[gizzo]

Yes, out of the parts list. Under ten pounds, but I don’t remember what it was. But then, it’s just a piece of plastic they made a few hundred thousand of.

Cool. Thanks

[GUNR]

Last night while riding home 50km tafter playing at a mate's Irish music house session, I noticed when stopped at a set of traffic lights that my tail light filament had blown. Of course, I still had the brake filament so I unscrewed the right heel guard (now I know why some guys dispense with them) and adjusted the brake light spring so that it was constantly on. This got me the 54km home on the sometimes dimly lit highway at 110km/h.

After seeing Streetkleaver swapping out his tail light bulb to a Narva 18224BL LED unit, I'm about to do the same.
Do a tail light / headlight LED upgrade require resistors; or is it only if you change the indicators / trafficators / turn signals that they require a different relay to ensure that the flash rate is correct?

[gizzo]

The replacement led bulbs are plug and play. No resistor needed. Bonus is they last longer than the bulbs. The vibration kills them.

[GUNR]

Great, just what I wanted to hear. I was wondering if a complete 650 LED headlight unit would fit, but then found a cheaper option. My new complete headlight with lens, rim reflector and even the park light fitting arrived today form AEspares. Now I have transfer the 2 grommets from the 2 big holes in the rear of my old headlight and hope they don’t disintegrate in the process.

[GUNR]

I have a remote chain oiling device that works well to keep it lubed and clean.

From what I saw on Loobman's website, it appears that you have to lean down and activate the top of the device. As our chains are on the RHS and our right hand is working the throttle, did you extend the  tube and tie it across to the LHS so your left hand could work it while you're riding?

PS
Mine is on the way.

[GUNR]

Even with the highest attenuation filters in my EarPeace plugs, I can hear all of the sounds emanating from the machine beneath me. As I'm relatively new to this machine compared to those of you who have owned and ridden one for years, I'm hoping to draw on your collective diagnostic skills.

The sounds I perceive are;
1) The throbbing / burbling / barking / backfiring utterances of the megaphone (and I LOVE them!)
2) The 'rolling marble' sound which comes from the lower LHS of the motor
3) Located higher in the engine, the metallic butterfly ('Iron Butterfly'?) wings sound which reminds me of the tappets in my old Norton. This particular sound increases in speed with engine revs and is most noticeable above 3,000 revs. (Oil not getting to the rockers or dry lifters?)

Are 2 and 3 something normal; or should I be prepared for opening up the patient?

[Farmer_John]

Good on you. You bought a Japanese bike, right?

No, still riding my C5. I have to keep up appearances, after all. We're primarily a Kawasaki, Moto Guzzi, Aprilia, Enfield dealer. With a couple of deep Asian brands to balance thing out.

[Beeza]

Even with the highest attenuation filters in my EarPeace plugs, I can hear all of the sounds emanating from the machine beneath me. As I'm relatively new to this machine compared to those of you who have owned and ridden one for years, I'm hoping to draw on your collective diagnostic skills.

The sounds I perceive are;
1) The throbbing / burbling / barking / backfiring utterances of the megaphone (and I LOVE them!)
2) The 'rolling marble' sound which comes from the lower LHS of the motor
3) Located higher in the engine, the metallic butterfly ('Iron Butterfly'?) wings sound which reminds me of the tappets in my old Norton. This particular sound increases in speed with engine revs and is most noticeable above 3,000 revs. (Oil not getting to the rockers or dry lifters?)

Are 2 and 3 something normal; or should I be prepared for opening up the patient?

#2 sounds like the primary drive, which should at least be opened up and the crank bolt and clutch nut inspected for being tight, if you haven’t already. Good time to defang, as Gizzo put it, the spring on the tensioner.

#3 sounds like it could be something in the rockers. Or maybe a something loose, like an exhaust pipe or head steady, but it is possible that the rockers are not torqued or the shaft is worn or kooky. It has been known to happen. I know, with hydraulic lifters you are supposed to never have to take the covers off, but I like to drop in for a visit just to see how things are going.

I had a rod knock in a Toyota that I took the pan off three times to find. It turned out to be a loose spark plug….

[GUNR]

That's the chain I have but mine isn't gold and it came with a clip master link not a rivet one.

Thanks for the heads up on the 3 kickstart shaft seals; they’re in my HMC care package arriving soon. I found the cheapest DID VX3 chain in Oz and for your benefit it was right in your backyard in Adelaide at Yamaha World.

[gizzo]

Thanks for the heads up on the 3 kickstart shaft seals; they’re in my HMC care package arriving soon. I found the cheapest DID VX3 chain in Oz and for your benefit it was right in your backyard in Adelaide at Yamaha World.

Good to know. Thanks.

[GUNR]

No worries. $160 including rivet link. Couldn’t find a clip link for it.

[GUNR]

I'm using this chain oiler
http://www.loobman.co.uk/
I have them on 3 bikes. They're simple and inexpensive.

My Loobman chain oiler has arrived. Did you mount the oil receptacle on the left somewhere (so you could activate the button with your left hand so you didn't have to remove your throttle hand) and then cross the oil delivery tube over to the RHS to the chain?
A picture or 2 would help if you can spare the time. It looks like a nice simple effective piece of kit.

[GUNR]

Yesterday was a big day mucking around with wires in a headlight shell. Whose bright idea was it to stuff that many electrical connectors into such a small space? I took the opportunity to install a new headlight as the chrome reflector surface inside the sealed beam on the old one had started to peel off. I noticed that the new headlight shell came with a dodgy internal finish with bubbling indicating that, yes, rust had been installed at the factory due to imperfect metal preparation.
Just to make things interesting...some knob head in the past had cross threaded one of the two headlight mounting bolts, so that means a trip to get a replacement so I don't ruin the threads on the new headlight shell.

At least the electrical connectors were of different types and sizes so no chance of a mix up there. The The old H4 bulb had a back end much smaller than the replacement Stedi LED (see pic) and much time was expended using silver 'anticon' tape to fix various connectors to the inside of the headlight shell to make room for the huge heatsink on the back of the new 'bulb'. The new unit has a removeable collar, so you can seat and lock the collar into the sealed beam unit and when ready, use the 'bayonet' type fitting method to twist the new 'LED tower' into place. This device comes with an inline LED driver and a standard H4 type fitting on the end of its lead which plugs straight into the wiring loom; so it is truly 'plug and play'.

The verdict?
Bloody amazing! My 'headlight' which was akin to a couple of glow worms copulating (and emanating a pathetic amber glow) to a bright, white search light. This upgrade was intended to be an interim measure before deciding on which LED insert to go for; after seeing the change this makes, I see no reason to look any further. If you haven't done it already (and you're allowed to where you live) then make the change to LED.

[GUNR]

I installed my new Ace air box kit today and went for a 100km ride and right from the first 100m all I can say is Wow! The Ace air box kit is low profiled, discreet and installed in 5 minutes (I used 5mm stainless washers to protect the 3D printed structure) and what a cost effective, positive difference to throttle response.  Throttle response is now instant and 3rd, 4th, 5th gear roll ons from 3,000 are livelier and the motor feels more eager. It makes you feel like you're in a lower gear but the revs haven't changed, the engine's breathing is that much different.

Thanks to all you guys who were involved in the 'Big gulp' development. I love it!

As for the led headlight bulb; they know I’m behind them, that’s for sure (I've included before and after pics to show the difference).

[gizzo]

It's on a flat bracket attached to the bike with one of the airbox mounting bolts.

Doesn't need to be accessed while riding. Give it a dose at the servo when you're filling up.

[GUNR]

Thanks, so it’s on the RHS of your bike. After reading the instructions now I understand that pressing the button allows oil into the delivery tube and the gradual dripping of the lube is enabled by the small hole which you burn in that permits air to come in so the oil doesn’t just sit in the tube. A simple, neat, efficient method.

[gizzo]

Yep. Right under the throttle cable pulley.

[GUNR]

I was just reading that a GT 450 may be on the cards utilising the water cooled engine from the Himalayan. A single cylinder cafe racer with around 40hp would be enticing.

[Beeza]

I was just reading that a GT 450 may be on the cards utilising the water cooled engine from the Himalayan. A single cylinder cafe racer with around 40hp would be enticing.

Seems more logical than a 450 lb dirt bike. Maybe they could make a 500cc aircooled conversion kit for it…..

[GUNR]

Hey Gizzo, how many of those air 'traps' did you put in your line before the final one which has the vent hole? Did you route the line along your chain guard and manage to aim the delivery head of the Loobman at the inside run of the chain?

[GUNR]

While testing out my newly installed Ace 'Big Gulp' air box kit, I took in the corners on the road to what we refer to as 'up river'. The ravages of the recent bushfires sit in stark contrast to the beauty of our local Macleay River. The black at the base of that tree is not a shadow but charring by flame; the black 'soil' under my bike is actually ash.

I discovered yesterday that one of my friends had never been on a motorcycle in her life and I  realised immediately that in her travels she hadn't really 'felt' the road texture, felt the rain, smelled the country odours or experienced that wonderful thing which is being atop a living, breathing monster which can be controlled by the 'twist of a wrist'. We, the initiated, are so much more alive as a result of our riding bikes (especially thumpers!).

[gizzo]

Hey Gizzo, how many of those air 'traps' did you put in your line before the final one which has the vent hole? Did you route the line along your chain guard and manage to aim the delivery head of the Loobman at the inside run of the chain?

The only airlock is the one with the hole, just before the dripper thing, per the fitting instructions. Same goes for the ones I've fitted to my other bikes. The dripper deposits oil on both sides of the sprocket via the cable tie wicks thence to be centrifugally flung into the chain as the sprocket goes around. It doesn't need aiming at the chain at all. All it needs is the wire that holds the delivery head to be on such an angle that the oil runs out and down onto the sprocket.

I've secured the hose to the swingarm with cable ties, leaving a bit of slack at the pivot end to allow for suspension movement. Don't zip them up too tight though, or you'll crimp the hose shut.

[GUNR]

I finally got my velocity stack installed but will have to wait until the morning to see if I can notice any difference. A couple of days ago I received my new compression tester and discovered that after several attempts all the readings were 60PSI; not good. The quickest solution for me was to buy a standard barrel and piston set from our host, that way I'll have a spare barrel on hand if I ever need to do a +10 thou rebore and get the matching piston that is in the 'online store'.

I have the crankcase gaskets, head and base gaskets, kickstart seals, new oil pump plastic drive cog, new primary (Renold) and drive chains, front and rear sprockets, cush drive rubbers as well as the rocker cover seals and O-rings. I hope I haven't forgotten anything.

To change over the primary chain, does releasing the tensioner provide enough wiggle room to slide the chain off or will I have to remove either the crankshaft sprocket or clutch basket to do this?

My Haynes manual mentions a special tool required to remove and install the head nuts. Is it required, or will my 3/8" or 1/4" drive sockets set fit the bill?

I like to be prepared before I start to operate so that I on't have any surprises that will mean the bike's guts will be subjected to humidity changes in the carport when it lives.

[GUNR]

Is the barrel and piston swap as straight forward as removing rocker covers, head, barrel and piston and the reversing the order to reassemble? The head, for example , doesn’t need rocker removal?

[gizzo]

You'll never get a good compression test on your bike because the decompressor is doing it's thing at cranking RPMs. You eed to disable that if you want to do a compression test. It's built into the exhaust cam and need the engine cover taken off to access.

You don't need a special nut holding tool for the head nuts.

Yes you'll need to take the rocker blocks off to remove the head. Can't withdraw the pushrods otherwise. It's only a few screws, easy.

Can't remember 100% whether the chain comes off easily. Ben and Taurim probably have better info.

You bought the oil pump gear from H? Might get one to keep in the spares box. Don't lose the O ring in the engine cover behind the filter housing!!
Good luck!!

[GUNR]

Once the cover is off, how do I go about disabling the decompressor?

[Beeza]

You have to take both the clutch and crank sprocket off with the chain, not enough slack otherwise. Given that you need to loctite the crank bolt and clutch nut anyway, no real extra work. I use a tapered wood block to jam the chain to hold the shafts. Just take the tensioner, as likely as not in backwards anyway, off before wailing on the fasteners.

The o ring on the pump/cover deserves some study. I use a dab of silicone to hold it in place during assembly. It is crude, and a bit scary frankly, but seems to work. H’s sells an ‘approximately 10mm’ o ring which is slightly oversize. I prefer an actual 10mm which seems like what would happen in India. It seems like you must use a gasket on the timing side because of the o ring squish factor, but the clutch side can be silicone.

Keep us posted…

[GUNR]

Thanks Beeza. I saw H’s special tool to lock the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket and teeth of the clutch basket, but thought a small wooden wedge might suffice. I haven’t ordered new washers for either of those or the 2 washers for the long head bolts. Can I safely reuse them? It’s quicker to receive a delivery from the other side of the planet in the UK via DHL than from 1,500km away in Melbourne.

[gizzo]

Once the cover is off, how do I go about disabling the decompressor?

Remove the exhaust cam and pull out all the bobweight and spring crap. Reinstall the cam. There's a YouTube that one of our members here posted that shows how.

You can reuse all the washers.

[GUNR]

Thanks Simon👍👍. A new barrel and piston is coming now anyway, so I’ll have some options in the future. Did you stick with the standard valve sizes when you changed to stainless or did you get the larger inlet valve? I suppose I won’t know what condition the valve guides are in until I buy a valve spring compressor and test the valve stem play in their guides. I’m only presuming as I haven’t done this before.

Anyway, it’s a nice day so I’m off to test the velocity stack and to play Irish tunes with a mate 50km away😁

[Beeza]

Thanks Beeza. I saw H’s special tool to lock the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket and teeth of the clutch basket, but thought a small wooden wedge might suffice. I haven’t ordered new washers for either of those or the 2 washers for the long head bolts. Can I safely reuse them? It’s quicker to receive a delivery from the other side of the planet in the UK via DHL than from 1,500km away in Melbourne.

The washers on the crank and clutch are reuseable. I haven’t done the head yet, but I think the same applies. One nice thing about the Enfield design is that the cylinder is long but the finned part is short so there’s not so much expansion so easier on the head studs.

A wedge of wood (Wedgewood?) worked fine for me. Be sure to clean all oil off the threads, use red loctite, and prime the blind hole in the crank well so the air doesn’t blow all the loctite out as you screw the bolt in.

I think a large part of the problem is that the splines aren’t super snug and the sprockets work a bit with the reversing loads. The crank spacer washer probably shifts a tiny bit but the loctite keeps the bolt from migrating. Splines can be like that, either a press fit or needing a locking tab washer like at the output sprocket.

It’s possible that the primary chain has been replaced. The Renold is blued steel, Iwis is edge staked and the OEM is center punched with a brownish master link.

[GUNR]

Remove the exhaust cam and pull out all the bobweight and spring crap. Reinstall the cam.

If I can temporarily disable the decompressor without draining the oil, it would indicate whether or not the barrel and piston need to be replaced at the time.
I was thinking of grouping some of my many tasks concurrently. If the oil needs to be drained to remove the RHS CC cover for;

temp. disable decomp.
front sprocket
kickstart seals
oil pump plastic cog etc.

how can I then check the compression without some sort of lube in the bore? If it is possible to disable the decomp. without draining the oil, can the compression testing be done with the RHS CC off?

[GUNR]

Anyway, it’s a nice day so I’m off to test the velocity stack...

I haven't been on the bike for a few days, but for some reason it felt like the 'megaphone effect' was now kicking in at 2,500 instead of 3,000rpm. There seems to be much more 'tow' in the mid-range and this extends to at least 5,000. Surely this feeling can't be due to the combined addition of the Ace big gulp air box mod and the recently added velocity stack? Wow what a difference and she is now even more fun than before!

[gizzo]

If I can temporarily disable the decompressor without draining the oil, it would indicate whether or not the barrel and piston need to be replaced at the time.
I was thinking of grouping some of my many tasks concurrently. If the oil needs to be drained to remove the RHS CC cover for;

temp. disable decomp.
front sprocket
kickstart seals
oil pump plastic cog etc.

how can I then check the compression without some sort of lube in the bore? If it is possible to disable the decomp. without draining the oil, can the compression testing be done with the RHS CC off?

Maybe you could do a compression test once you've removed the rocker cover, exhaust rockers and pushrod. But leave the inlet in place. That sounds like it should work. IDK if it'd upset anything down below if you spun it over with the side cover off. If you're going to rip into the decompressor mechanism you need to let the rocker up anyway, to take the load off the lifter and get the cam out. Win, win. I'd try that before doing it with the side cover off. Just because I'm confident it's safe.

I would have no problem doing a compression test with no oil in the engine. It's a roller bottom end. residual oil will be enough to lubricate it for the short time it's spinning over.

Before you go removing the cam, make note of the gear backlash between the cam gear and the driving gear. There needs to be some, but not too much. If there's none, the gears or cam bushes flog out (I don't recall which it was). Some guys have eliminated the backlash to get rid of the rattle but caused other problems. The cam runs on an eccentric shaft that can be turned to adjust gear backlash.

The GT comes with a 1mm oversize inlet valve and 500 size exhaust valve. I left them both as is. Just got the 1 piece exhaust valve.

It's good to hear your butt dyno likes the airbox mod. Mine does too. My benchmark was the way my bike pulled up over a particular railway overpass. It went up ok before but romps up with the airbox mods. I bet your bike has tons of compression.

[GUNR]

Before you go removing the cam, make note of the gear backlash between the cam gear and the driving gear. There needs to be some, but not too much.

I've seen the video of setting the gear lash so will be bookmarking it.

The GT comes with a 1mm oversize inlet valve and 500 size exhaust valve. I left them both as is. Just got the 1 piece exhaust valve.

So you got the stainless exhaust valve but didn't get a stainless inlet valve?

It's good to hear your butt dyno likes the airbox mod. Mine does too. My benchmark was the way my bike pulled up over a particular railway overpass. It went up ok before but romps up with the airbox mods. I bet your bike has tons of compression.

I keep forgetting to use the 'butt dyno' terminology; it's a ripper. I have a highway speed rise over a railway overpass and a roll-on from 3,000 in 4th had me heading to 5,000 in short order. Another is a particular 'flip-flop' incorporating being canted over to the right in a large roundabout / accelerating in 2nd / short shift to 3rd while giving her 'the berries' / flopping over to the left for a handful in 4th / merging onto the highway with a quick snick into 5th to make it look like I've been a good boy...

[GUNR]

That was a good ride today and I was glad I made the decision to buy a new Ogio Mach 5 Stealth backpack as this afternoon the crosswind was strong. After years of ill-fitting backpacks that moved around due to the wind buffeting, it was a real relief to find that this thing clings like a limpet. Secured across the chest and waist, torso-hugging with no gaps to allow the wind to create a 'spinnaker effect', stealth angles to create good laminar air flow, zero weight on the shoulders and padding up each side over the kidneys to form a 'breathing' channel down the centre of your back; what a well thought out piece of kit.

Come to think of it, during the roundabout 'flip-flop' mentioned above, my new limpet stayed in situ and I forgot it was even there.

[gizzo]

So you got the stainless exhaust valve but didn't get a stainless inlet valve?

Yeah. There's no reports of inlets failing. So didn't feel swapping it was needed.

I loath riding with backpacks apart from short commutes. I'd rather take my magnetic tankbag. But good that one works for you.

[GUNR]

I was just now reading your post of how you had removed your decompressor. What benefit did you experience from doing that?

[gizzo]

The clatter is gone. Id be pleased to still have it otherwise.

[GUNR]

When changing from spring activated rear brake light to hydraulic pressure switch, is it necessary to completely drain all brake fluid before beginning?

[gizzo]

Nar. Have everything ready to go, whip the banjo out of the to of the master cylinder and pop the switch in. The quicker you are, the less fluid will be lost. You'll still need to bleed the system but that's easy enough.

Have the garden house ready so that when you've tightened the banjo switch, you can immediately flush the area with clean water. Brake fluid is easily washed away with water and stops the paint being ruined. A good rinse is something I always do as soon as I've bled a brake.

[GUNR]

The insulator arrived but I noticed it has an imperfection on the side opposite the head. Should it be okay to use or should I get it exchanged? I don't know how much of the area is required for sealing, but it looks a bit 'suss' to me. Any advice from Gizzo or Taurim who have experienced these things first hand?

[gizzo]

That little notch is supposed to be there. It makes a space for the injector to squirt past. It looks like you might tidy it up a little bit. Compare it with the one you remove from the bike.

[GUNR]

Rather than a small chamfer it looks like a divot or bubble that ends nowhere. How can it allow a squirt of fuel past it? Still, you’ve seen them in situ so I’ll take notice when I remove the present one.
Thanks.

[Taurim]

gizzo said everything. You have to place the notch just after the injector hole.

A bad photo taken from the inside of the intake tract where you can't see anything 

[GUNR]

Thanks Taurim and Gizzo. Now all I have to do is finally get that petrol tank connection to disengage so I can remove the tank.

I noticed today that my new rubber pad that I bolted to the swingarm (to protect it from the chain) has torn off and gone. I could make a pattern and cut one out of 5mm rubber that I have; do any of you guys run without one? Obviously I’ll be using my new ‘chain monkey’ for the correct tension.

[Beeza]

I’ve yet to remove my tank, but the last guy must have. It looks like you could just remove the other end of the hose and leave it attached on the pump end. Or not? My hose has been replaced already and the OEM is a suspect thing, but maybe with the tank off it would be more convenient.

??

[Beeza]

I omitted to say that the plastic outlet on the pump has a reputation for fragility, if you didn’t already know.

[Taurim]

I lost the count of how many times I had to remove the tank 

Once you get the trick to press the quick release connector, remove both vent tubes and the connector for gas level it's fairly easy.

The tube on the plastic fuel pump is fragile. I broke one when I tried to put the tank on the bike and the tube hit a frame tube... which means replacing the whole fuel pump

DO NOT apply any radial load to it !

[GUNR]

The tube on the plastic fuel pump is fragile. I broke one when I tried to put the tank on the bike and the tube hit a frame tube... which means replacing the whole fuel pump

DO NOT apply any radial load to it !

Understood; thanks Taurim. I’ve forgotten how many times I’ve already tried to undo that pesky connector and I may yet have to do as Beeza suggested and that is remove the bottom end of the fuel line.

[gizzo]

I lost the count of how many times I had to remove the tank 

Same here. I can have the tank of in about 30 seconds. I guess it's a coincidence trick. Never broke the spigot yet, touch wood...

[GUNR]

Same here. I can have the tank of in about 30 seconds. I guess it's a coincidence trick. Never broke the spigot yet, touch wood...

…and a confidence trick. If the bottom end of the fuel line plays ball,  it’ll be easier to diagnose what’s happening with the connector buttons when the tank is up on the bench. If that connector was aluminium at least I’d know it was severe salt corrosion I was dealing with 😁. That tank is coming off today one way or another as the inlet stub is looking like an 80yr old sunbather’s skin…

[gizzo]

Stupid auto spell. Confidence is what I meant to say  . You'll be fine. Take it easy, wiggle it as you pull the connector backward and it'll come off eventually. it's a snug fit.

[GUNR]

Thanks for your help guys; I finally got the tank off without breaking the plastic spigot. I am going to build up those two buttons on that plug as they are not 'sitting proud' of the plug as I imagine they should be.

When the tank came off, I was confronted with wiring loom chaos. Not at all what I expected after seeing Taurim's photos of his organised wiring system. There seems as though everything was chucked in and the tank slapped on (just like what you see when you peek under the bonnet / hood of a Triumph Stag sports car).

Still, sorting out the loom can be another day, as now I need to ask what the assembly order is. I've tried;

1. installing the air box rubber first but found it too dfficult to press the EFI unit into the tight rubber opening.

2. fitting the EFI unit to the air box rubber and pusing on the former to get the latter seated into the air box.

That's where I'm up to as I can't jockey the stub, injector unit and isolator into place.
What's the sequence here guys and how the hell did you keep those obviously undersize O-rings in place Taurim?

The new adjustable bi-valve cable has the 'business end' a bit shorter than the OEM version; is that normal?

[gizzo]

The wiring under there is a bit of a dog's breakfast, huh? The way they just jammed the ECU in without bothering to make a properly fitting mount ...

[GUNR]

The wiring under there is a bit of a dog's breakfast, huh? The way they just jammed the ECU in without bothering to make a properly fitting mount ...

That's for sure; I'm always trying to stuff it forward into the holder (the old one split) and the ECU always seems to wiggle back down again.

I forgot to ask if you guys had to shorten your 5mm Allen key to undo the throttle body. At this rate I'll have a set of Allen keys looking like runes.

I noticed that the butterfly valve had an almost sooty complexion and also noted how rough the head inlet port is. I've seen pictures of the rockers which look rough as guts; but as long as they keep on keeping on.

[gizzo]

That's for sure; I'm always trying to stuff it forward into the holder (the old one split) and the ECU always seems to wiggle back down again.

I forgot to ask if you guys had to shorten your 5mm Allen key to undo the throttle body. At this rate I'll have a set of Allen keys looking like runes.

I noticed that the butterfly valve had an almost sooty complexion and also noted how rough the head inlet port is. I've seen pictures of the rockers which look rough as guts; but as long as they keep on keeping on.

First time I saw the rocker assembly I thought it looked as if it'd been gnawed from a block of iron by some rodent. But like you say, they work. I don't suppose they have to look pretty. Very home made looking though.

[StreetKleaver]

First time I saw the rocker assembly I thought it looked as if it'd been gnawed from a block of iron by some rodent. But like you say, they work. I don't suppose they have to look pretty. Very home made looking though.

I've got a brand new set there waiting for me to attack it and make it a bit lighter.

[GUNR]

I've got a brand new set there waiting for me to attack it and make it a bit lighter.

If they look anything like Ace’s roller rockers they’ll be looking pretty flash..

[GUNR]

That’s a long spigot on the fuel tank; does all of it fit into the right angle fuel line connector as mine only goes on half way. I managed to replace all the perishable parts in the inlet tract as well as install the new adjustable bi-valve (scallops?) cable.

Now that bloody connector rears its head again. If there’s a replacement available, I’ll be at the head of the queue.

Does anyone have an idea of what sort of special tool that Capt. Bob made for this connector; I’m going to make myself one.

I’ve remembered the steps for replacing those parts while stopping the O rings from falling out. As soon as I get the tank on I’ll document it for others to smooth their path.

[GUNR]

All sorted. Air box rubber outlet, inlet stub, isolator and three O rings all replaced. As all of my stainless screws showed signs of aluminium corrosion, I used an aluminium 'never seize' product in the assembly.

Air box rubber, inlet stub, isolator and O rings renewal procedure

I had a few attempts before I realised the order of events so for anyone interested in wishing to accomplish the job, this is the way I found easiest as the 3 new O rings don't want to play ball by staying in their respective grooves.

1. Practice sliding the insulator against the half-inserted injector O ring to see that you can coerce it into position (see photo). I did this a few times  while the parts were off the bike and it made it all so much easier when the time came. I recommend it.

2. The O rings for the inlet stub and isolator have a good chance of staying put long enough for installation if carefully inserted into their respective grooves (ensure they're not twisted) and then put a book or some other weight on them overnight.

3. With all the inlet tract parts off the bike, push the throttle body into the air box rubber. Lightly tighten the hose clamp.

4. Now you have the mass of the throttle body to help push the air box rubber over the air box port. There is a ridge on the LHS of this port so working from the RHS of the bike, angle the joined parts over toward the left side of the air box port and then push and wiggle the air box rubber until it is seated properly (taking note to align the tabs on the air box and rubber so they are sitting properly). Lightly tighten the hose clamp.

5. Fit the inlet stub, taking care to align it properly.

6. Now fit the injector, This is where I wasted untold time, even though I'd done the prerequisite shortening of a 5mm Allen key. Due to the limited space between the mounting bracket and the adjacent electrical connector on the LHS (see photo) it is easiest to do this side first. Get the screw started and then pull the injector toward the engine as it will also draw the screw head up to the barcket and you can get your index finger and thumb in there to wind the screw in (quicker than doing repeated 10 degree movements blind with an Allen key. Once the LHS screw is finger tight, progress to the RHS. One of my attempts (of which there were many) involved alternating between left and right screws; believe me...do the left first, then the right. Tighten both screws.

7. Have the injector, isolator, (and its O ring) and the 2 screws close at hand as this is the tricky part, but if you did (1.) above, it'll be a breeze. You only have a narrow gap to work in but following my earlier practices I managed it 2nd time. All of the lightly tightened hose clamps will permit what comes next. Ensure the isolator O ring is seated, then reach in and place the bottom half of the injector O ring in its groove. While watching carefully from the side, slide the isolator against the injector until you think the injector O ring in seated correctly. Hold the isolator against the injector and with the slack provided by the loose hose clamps, pull the whole lot toward you and feel with a finger inside the injector throat to ensure the O ring hasn't slipped out of its groove to the inside.

8. Using the hose clamp slack, pull everything toward the head and screw combined injector / isolator securely into the head.

9. Tighten all the hose clamps and recheck all the Allen screws.

The next time will be quicker.

PS
I found my input tract air leak. I installed 3 new O rings but only removed 2 because there wasn't one on the injector. Someone else must not have worked out the 'sliding technique' I mentioned.

[GUNR]

That’s a long spigot on the fuel tank; does all of it fit into the right angle fuel line connector as mine only goes on half way.

A quick wipe of the spigot with a silicon sprayed cloth and the connector pushed home (just like Gizzo said). For those who are interested, there's a gap of approx. 7mm between the fitted connector and the tank fitting. The connector is still shite and I'm very keen to find an alternative (uless mine is clapped out).

[Taurim]

Congratulations GUNR 

It will probably work a lot better now 

[gizzo]

Good work old mate! Thanks for doing the step by step writeup. That will surely come in handy for someone. In retrospect, it almost seems simpler to pop the head off !

[GUNR]

Wow! so that's how these bikes are supposed to go. I checked my chain tension with my new 'Chain Monkey' (what a doddle chain tensioning is now!) and went for a quick 25km squirt along the deserted old highway.

Finally having an O ring in the injector groove (AWOL when I disassembled) and especially replacing the O ring on the cylinder head side of the isolator which had been tightened so much that the O ring was flattened, eliminated the air leaks in the inlet tract and the engine pulls even stronger than before. I don't remember having to consciously hang onto the bars before; now she's trying to tear them from my grip...or it seems that way and I haven't even dialled in the Dobeck EJK tuner yet.

Yeah Gizzo, I have the gaskets, ring compressor etc. to take the head off and tackle it that way, but then I thought you'd have had to align a bulky cylinder head while jockeying the isolator and two O rings into position.

Thanks to Gizzo and Taurim for giving me the confidence to go ahead and achieve these fixes.

[GUNR]

Now I'm able to remove the fuel line connector with the DIY wire pliers https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=36296.0 and get the tank off.

So many jobs to do on my list so I removed the tank, decluttered the wiring under the tank, in front of the air box and under the seat. Now all of the wiring behind the engine sits inboard of the starter relay, whereas before it was all over the shop. I removed H's fancy aluminium crankcase breather as I was still getting oil running down the RHS cover. Now I've reinstated the OEM breather connection with a new oil resistant hose leading back to the air box. The engine has enough compression for me to stand on the kick start lever and if it was a valve guide issue I thought I would have been laying a smoke screen.

Of course, this meant removing the plastic 'electrical tidy' plate and as a result the horns which will free up the mounting bracket to mount the Loobman chain oiler.
Hey Gizzo, how did you keep your oiler's feed line out of the way of the chain as it goes over the swing arm pivot? I peeked in and saw all that remained of my new swingarm chain rubber cushion is the two bolts holding it on! I've got some 5mm hard rubber kicking 'round so I'll press some paper on the bolts holes for a drilling template.

[GUNR]

I noticed that the ECU had slid back down (again) in its rubber holder. A couple of zip ties linked together and tightened around the ECU 'just enough' will deter it from sliding back.

[GUNR]

The swingarm pad (part #585209) which I replaced recently, has seen fit to disintegrate. While ferreting around in the stores department I laid my hands on a piece of 5mm rubber sheet which I thought would do to replace the OEM 3.5mm article. The crucial measurements for a DIY pad I decided would be the distance between centres of the 2 mounting holes, distance from the right side of the frame and distance from the rear most hole to the inside curve of the swingarm.

As luck would have it, the remaining fragment of the old one gave me the centres of the 2 holes (so I didn't have to reach in and do a 'brass rubbing' to establish the hole positions).
I removed the chain guard and fitted it via what seemed like laparoscopic surgery as there is no room to move your hands much let alone see what you are doing.
Another fiddly job sent to try us.

[GUNR]

It's on a flat bracket attached to the bike with one of the airbox mounting bolts.

Comparing your picture with the front of my air box, I don't see an airbox mounting point. You're obviously not running your CC breather tube to the air box as you have the blanking plug in place. I moved my horns back to the front and packed away the electrics tidy panel so I could install my Loobman chain oiler. The CC breather tube going into my airbox occupies the space where I intended to mount the oil reservoir. Any ideas Gizzo; and how did you run the oil delivery tube (e.g. over the lateral frame member that sits above the swingarm pivot point, zip tied to the inside of the pillion footpeg triangle and thence along the swingarm)?

[gizzo]

My airbox has a standoff with a captive nut moulded in that attaches to a bracket on the frame crossmember. You can see it in the pic. It's the lower protrusion from the airbox. The frame mount is a welded tab. Your bike doesn't appear to have either so you'll have to work something else out. Have you tried the plastic wedges that came with the kit to zip tie the bottle to the frame somewhere?

My breather still runs into the original place in the airbox. There's another stub in the bottom of the box that you can't see because it's hidden behind the oil bottle. It's the one with the cap on it in your photo. The one here your breather is fitted was capped off from new on mine.

Looks like there's a few slight differences between MY01 bikes and the others.

[GUNR]

I thought there were some differences between our airboxes. I have no idea what the lowest blanked off port is for. I've been looking for mounting locations even with the plastic triangle. The most likely candidate spot is where I have arrowed, but I doubt it would be vertical enough.

[gizzo]

Could you make a sheet metal bracket that picks up on the rear engine mount plate?

[GUNR]

Could you make a sheet metal bracket that picks up on the rear engine mount plate?

I was thinking that I could fix a bracket to the captive nut which I previously had the right horn mounted to.

[GUNR]

Today I made my cardboard template so I can make the Loobman reservoir bracket; now the searching begins for a suitably sized cylindrical object that I can use as a mandrel. The instructions suggest that it is best to mount it where it can be accessed while sitting on the bike, which means that Gizzo's location is optimal (I just have to dodge the crankcase breather tube...)

I bought our host's soft luggage supports (part # 93206) as I wanted to be able to choose whether to carry saddlebags/cases or not.
I like the look of the Lomo 'Motorcycle adventure pannier dry bags - Medium' as they are waterproof and will fit the dimensions between the top shock mount and the rear indicator (and they're only £59 in the UK; but who knows what price in Oz). They have plenty of the Molle webbing attachment points on the back of these bags. Does anyone have experience with them?

[GUNR]

The Loobman chain oiler was finally installed today. In the end I decided to go with the same location as Gizzo used for his one (thanks for your help mate). There was a scrap of aluminium checker plate which ended up being fit for purpose and I used the neck of a spade as a mandrel for the curve that the cylindrical reservoir nestles into.

The two fiddly parts are bending the delivery wire correctly so that the small zip tie offcuts can slide on each side of the rear sprocket. They sort of work like capillary action in that the oil oozes slowly along the thin zip tie, onto the sprocket and then onto the chain. So simple an idea and it works a treat sending the oil (80W gear oil is what I had on hand) straight to where it's needed. Luckily I bought a you-beaut oil funnel which looks like a truncated cone and is perfect for filling the chain oiler cylinder (and it just happened to be colour-matched to the bike).

While I was crouching down doing that, I thought I'd have a peek into the air box. There was a thin smear of oil in the bottom of the air box (better there than running down the crankcase and onto my boot as before). I also found that the velocity stack had slipped out, so it looks like I'll be adding extra hose clamps (as Streetkleaver did) around the flexible rubber tube between the air box and throttle body so they can clamp onto the velocity stack. That'll be another day...

[gizzo]

That's a good location for the reservoir! Nice one.

I glued the stack in with some sika marine adhesive after it fell out.

[GUNR]

I glued the stack in with some sika marine adhesive after it fell out.

I thought of wrapping the end with ant-con silver tape (which sticks like s--t to a blanket) to pack out the gap and hold the stack in place. In the end I went to Bunny's and bought a stainless 46 - 70mm hose clamp and tightened it just enough to stop the stack rotating. That way I can dismantle what I need to when other jobs need to be attended to.

I noticed a little oil around the reservoir plunger so maybe I have to only half fill the cylinder from now on.

[GUNR]

After my initial mounting of the Loobman oiler reservoir, I was getting oil jumping up around the plunger activation lever. I contacted Dennis at Loobman and he suggested to rubber mount the bracket as vibration may be the issue.

Prior to my last ride, I used some 5mm hard rubber sheet, punched a hole in it with a wad cutter and  isolated my DIY bracket with the new rubber isolator. A good 100km fang and no leaks! I can recommend the Loobman oiler for its function, simplicity and value and also the backup from Dennis who is right on the ball.

[GUNR]

With my son's help, I finally got around to fitting the new Renold primary chain. Rather than buying the factory tool to lock the crankshaft drive to the clutch basket, I adopted the suggestion found in my Haynes manual to make a DIY version. The manual suggested steel of 70 x 20 x 5mm rounded at the ends, but I had a scrap of 6mm aluminium plate which I cut, filed and sanded for the same result and it worked a treat. Another special tool for the tool box...

The primary chain which was in there was 'in spec' and actually measured the same 21 pin length as the new Renold chain. Attached is a photo of the original; it is either 'Rolon' or 'Olon' preceded by an encircled 'R' for registered trade mark. If anyone knows who these chains are made by, I be interested to find out.

One of my previous purchases from HMC (besides the oil filter, O-rings and washers) included a set of replacement Allen key compatible crankcase screws, so I changed the LHS screws during this job.

Something that continues to puzzle me is that following a drain and oil filter replacement, 2 litres of oil takes the reading to the top of the sight glass. The manual states that I should have been able to put in 2.5 litres, so I'm cautiously watching the sight glass.

I didn't remove the RHS crankcase this time because I wanted to change the drive chain, sprockets and cush drive rubbers in one hit.
The leak shown here in the photo, I assume stems from the pesky kick start seal; just as well I erred on the side of caution and bought enough parts to cover most eventualities.

PS
I don't have a small child or dog in the household; those are puppy training pads which are very effective at absorbing all sorts of fluids including oil...