[johnyelland1234]

Hello all, new to the forum as I'm currently in Facebook jail and looking for alternatives to that platform. I posted a GIF of the movie Aliens, on a post about the movie Aliens and got a 6 day ban. AI is great right?

Anyway, I went to my Himmy after work and it struggled to start, when it started, it was running incredibly rich and didn't sound great. I managed to get home. The next day it wouldn't start at all.

It went to the dealership, and they replaced the throttle body. The bike struggled to start when it came back and wouldn't idle. The TPS was at 0.64v. On it's first refuel with shell V Power, it wouldn't start on the pump and I had to push it to a parking space. I managed to get it started and rode home. Eventually after a few days it wouldn't start at all.

Back to the dealership it went, and they turned the TPS down to 0.56v and replaced the spark plug (fouled probably by the first failure).

Now it starts, but doesn't stay running until it warms for about 30 seconds. After which it seems fine. When it's idling in this period, you can smell it's very rich and it's idling at about 900 when cold, and 1300 when warm.

I had to wait for the dealership to reopen for 2 weeks and had to book holiday off work as it's my only form of transport.

Before the throttle body failed the first time, it started and idled perfectly on the button. But when warm it did idle at around 1800, which is a bit high.

--------

Does anyone have any insight as to how I can improve it and get it back to the way it was? Perhaps the idle was too high to start with and that's why it ran so well and idled fine. It does smell rich though when idling now. I'm wondering if the spark plug will foul again if it is indeed running too rich.

Any advice from you guys and gals would be appreciated. I don't want to give it back to the dealership again and book more time off work when it can be used.

Thanks
John

[robinb]

was it a naked alien ?


Have you checked the air filter ?

[johnyelland1234]

was it a naked alien ?


Have you checked the air filter ?

Lol no, it was Sigourney Weaver saying 'We take off and nuke the whole site from orbit'. Bannable apparently.

I'll take the air filter off tomorrow and have a look. Also bought a pack of 4 spark plugs (pre-gapped and himmy part number) for £12 delivered, so I'll swap that round when they arrive too.

I think maybe the TPS needs turning down just a little further, but I want to exhaust everything else.

It's under warranty till March, but it's been in twice and still isn't right. Being without transport has been painful these last two weeks off work.

[robinb]

Great film.

I would hope the shop gets it sorted quick and would ensure problem is fixed asap.

It cant be too many things but engines...
The fact its running way to rich must give good pointers.

Also is the fuel in it been the same since you had problem ?
(just a thought)

[johnyelland1234]

Great film.

I would hope the shop gets it sorted quick and would ensure problem is fixed asap.

It cant be too many things but engines...
The fact its running way to rich must give good pointers.

Also is the fuel in it been the same since you had problem ?
(just a thought)

It wasn't running rich at all before the throttle body failed, but the idle was high at 1800ish when warm.

Then when the throttle body failed it ran extremely rich. Throttle body was replaced and it's never been right. Until it eventually wouldn't start at all.

I have the bike back now, and I can at least use it for work. Just want to try and sort it so I don't have to send it back again. It's going in for it's 9000ml service probably March just before the warranty expires, so they can check it out then if it's not sorted. When it's not totally warm, it does back fire a little if you give it a blip of the throttle.

As for the fuel. I had E10 fuel in there when it broke, but when it came back with the new throttle body I put in Shell V-Power E5. Then it wouldn't start at all. I managed to get it going but it only lasted a few days before I had to get it recovered again. They did try other fuel when they were trying to diagnose it.

Yesterday I refuelled it with BP Performance E5, and it seems to be running the same as when it had the V-Power. Once the engines totally warm it seems to run ok.

I'll check the Air filter tomorrow when I'm fitting my new front spots.

[robinb]

you might have seen this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNYGt2RW8pM

[johnyelland1234]

you might have seen this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNYGt2RW8pM

Yep I've seen that. I actually used that video to check what my TPS was actually set to before it went back for the second time. It was at 0.64v, but the dealership turned it down to 0.56v and it was much better. I may have a go at turning it down a touch more to see if that helps. When I told MotoGB that I'd checked it they were very mad lol. It seems only a 'authorised dealer' can do this, probably because owners would rectify many issues themselves and not spend big scrilla on putting it into a workshop.

[zimmemr]

Hello all, new to the forum as I'm currently in Facebook jail and looking for alternatives to that platform. I posted a GIF of the movie Aliens, on a post about the movie Aliens and got a 6 day ban. AI is great right?

Anyway, I went to my Himmy after work and it struggled to start, when it started, it was running incredibly rich and didn't sound great. I managed to get home. The next day it wouldn't start at all.

It went to the dealership, and they replaced the throttle body. The bike struggled to start when it came back and wouldn't idle. The TPS was at 0.64v. On it's first refuel with shell V Power, it wouldn't start on the pump and I had to push it to a parking space. I managed to get it started and rode home. Eventually after a few days it wouldn't start at all.

Back to the dealership it went, and they turned the TPS down to 0.56v and replaced the spark plug (fouled probably by the first failure).

Now it starts, but doesn't stay running until it warms for about 30 seconds. After which it seems fine. When it's idling in this period, you can smell it's very rich and it's idling at about 900 when cold, and 1300 when warm.

I had to wait for the dealership to reopen for 2 weeks and had to book holiday off work as it's my only form of transport.

Before the throttle body failed the first time, it started and idled perfectly on the button. But when warm it did idle at around 1800, which is a bit high.

--------

Does anyone have any insight as to how I can improve it and get it back to the way it was? Perhaps the idle was too high to start with and that's why it ran so well and idled fine. It does smell rich though when idling now. I'm wondering if the spark plug will foul again if it is indeed running too rich.

Any advice from you guys and gals would be appreciated. I don't want to give it back to the dealership again and book more time off work when it can be used.

Thanks
John

Just curious, why was the throttle body replaced? Did the injector or map sensor fail?

[johnyelland1234]

Just curious, why was the throttle body replaced? Did the injector or map sensor fail?

I went out to the bike to go home from work and when it started it would barely idle and sounded terrible. I got home, but it wouldn't start the next day.

They said they've tried everything except the throttle body, which was apparently giving erratic TPS sensor readings. As the TPS sensor 'can't' be replaced as a standalone part, they replaced the entire throttle body.

They tested the injector this time it was in and they found no fault with that.

[robinb]

Not sure what the 60v is they mention.

https://indianautosblog.com/bs6-royal-enfield-himalayan-stalling-issue-rectified-p320775

[johnyelland1234]

Not sure what the 60v is they mention.

https://indianautosblog.com/bs6-royal-enfield-himalayan-stalling-issue-rectified-p320775

Good find!

Mines the BS4 (Euro 4) version but they are almost the same.

Funny to see they said turn it down to 0.50 and adjust the idle so it's a little higher. That's pretty much what I'm thinking of doing.

Sod it, I'll give it a go tomorrow and just change it back if it doesn't work lol.

Thanks for that info, it's valuable. Funnily enough, my bike actually used to stall when changing gears/dipping the clutch. The problem seemed to go away on its own though. I might have just what these bikes do.

[zimmemr]

I went out to the bike to go home from work and when it started it would barely idle and sounded terrible. I got home, but it wouldn't start the next day.

They said they've tried everything except the throttle body, which was apparently giving erratic TPS sensor readings. As the TPS sensor 'can't' be replaced as a standalone part, they replaced the entire throttle body.

They tested the injector this time it was in and they found no fault with that.

Thanks, that makes perfect sense. I didn't realize the TPS wasn't available on it's own. Good luck with it.

[gizzo]

You ought to get them to try a new injector, and check fuel pump pressure while they're at it.

[johnyelland1234]

You ought to get them to try a new injector, and check fuel pump pressure while they're at it.

Yep they said they checked the injector and it was ok. The fuel pump, I took the output pipe off and turned the ignition on for a second, and it seemed to pump fine, but obviously this is no indication of the actual pressure. I'll add it to the list for them to look at.

[johnyelland1234]

Thanks, that makes perfect sense. I didn't realize the TPS wasn't available on it's own. Good luck with it.

Thanks. You can actually change the TPS sensor, despite what the distributer says. You just can't buy it separate. So if you can get hold of one, it'd make a good spare. I'm sure it'll get sorted. The dealership has agreed to thoroughly try again when it goes in for service.

[johnyelland1234]

Have you checked the air filter ?

Checked that. Looks brand new and is clean inside. These bikes are serviced every 3000mls though.

[robinb]

thats good.

did you figure out what the 60v setting was on the article i linked ?

if the have checked the 0.56v, the pump etc.

The only other thing is the MAF sensor
.

[johnyelland1234]

thats good.

did you figure out what the 60v setting was on the article i linked ?

if the have checked the 0.56v, the pump etc.

The only other thing is the MAF sensor
.

I did have a search around and checked the workshop manual, but couldn't see anything about the voltage.

Good point about the MAF (called O2 Sensor) on the Himmy. It's very easy to remove, so I might do that and see if it needs a clean.

Haven't done the TPS yet, waiting for a new Iridium spark plug first.

[zimmemr]

I did have a search around and checked the workshop manual, but couldn't see anything about the voltage.

Good point about the MAF (called O2 Sensor) on the Himmy. It's very easy to remove, so I might do that and see if it needs a clean.

Haven't done the TPS yet, waiting for a new Iridium spark plug first.

I've never heard of an 02 sensor being referred to as Mass Air Flow Sensor. MAF's measure the amount of air flowing into an engine, while 02 sensors measure the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases.  https://www.samarins.com/glossary/airflow_sensor.html

But that aside I've seen plenty of 02 sensors fail, they're generally considerd an expendable part like a sprk plug or air filter, and in fact I suspect the one in my own Himalayan was acting up, but in my case I think it was causing the bike to run lean. I bypassed mine, when I removed the CAT, and the bike has run perfectly ever since. My local dealer, who I trust, has told me he's had one instance of a Himalayan running overly rich that was traced to a bad 02 sensor as well. Generally a failed 02 sensor will set the CEL, but not always so it's certainly something you want to check.

[robinb]

an O2 sensor is in the exhaust side. (also known as Lambda)

MAF is on the inlet side.

[johnyelland1234]

Oh yes you're right.

I'm taking the fuel tank off tomorrow to finish wiring in my new spots. I'll try to remove the O2 sensor and see if it's coked up and give it a soak in petrol if needs be.

[johnyelland1234]

New Spots. Had to design and 3D print some carbon fibre Nylon brackets that do the same as the Mad Dog ones. Couldn't find them for sale in the UK.



Also removed the spark plug and fitted a new standard one so I don't foul up the Iridium one that'll eventually go in once the issues are sorted.



Looks fine to me, and according to the comparison chart. Going to be removing the oxygen sensor and cleaning it with throttle body cleaner tomorrow.

I think the issue is the surging/misfiring. When idling cold, it idles at around 800-900rpm. It surges but misses the odd ignition cycle, as the idle is so low, I think it's cutting out before it picks back up. Thinking faulty ignition coil. But I'll try the oxygen sensor first and see what happens.

[robinb]

keep us posted.

[Carl Fenn]

Just as a matter of interest have you been riding off road and riding in water they can take in water from the rear wheel into air box which can effect running, did they fit the right body at the dealer 4 or 5 for instances l think there would be some difference.

[johnyelland1234]

Just as a matter of interest have you been riding off road and riding in water they can take in water from the rear wheel into air box which can effect running, did they fit the right body at the dealer 4 or 5 for instances l think there would be some difference.

Nope, no real offroading or riding in deep water. I have checked the airbox and it's like new inside.

I actually fixed this, turns out it was the Oxygen Sensor. I took it out and soaked it in carb cleaner overnight. Cleaned it, dryed it and refitted. Bike ran loads better.

Fitted an iridium spark plug and it's running pretty much spot on now.

RE are going to fit a brand new oxygen sensor under warranty, but the issue seems resolved. Starts in the cold with no cold start at all. Idles fine. I think it may have fouled when the throttle body failed before.

Think the dealer should have picked up on this. But hey ho, at least it seems fixed.

[robinb]

Glad my suggestion worked.

Normally it’s all basic stuff .

Enjoy.

[johnyelland1234]

The bike failed again. It started to take ages to start and when it did it would just cut out even with holding the throttle on. Got it recovered to the dealership for the 4th time.

They replaced the oxygen sensor, throttle body (with another new one), correct the valve clearance which was a bit out.

I picked it up and it was fine. Rode home.

Later that night, it started great and was fine going to work.

----

This morning after my shift, it started fine but did stall after about a minute of idling. Started it again and it was fine. No biggie.

When I was riding out of work in 1st gear at low speed, it was stuttering, even with the clutch out.

When I got to the main road and opened it up, it seemed to be ok.

----

Time will tell, I'm going to work in a bit and the bikes cold so I'll see how it's doing then. I've checked the chain tension and it's fine. Fairly new heavy duty chain too.

Ho hum, hopefully it was just a blip, but knowing this bike it probably isn't.

[johnyelland1234]

Oh, and from what they said, when they fitted the first new throttle body, they didn't push the top connector all the way in so it was seated securely. Probably worked its way out while riding with the vibration. Great tech team.................

[lex131]

Any updates? How's it running? Any new discoveries?

And btw, did you change the relays?

[AzCal Retred]

Maybe Plan B...?

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/41381?cont_page=Royal-Enfield-Himalayan-Accessories&keyword=carb

PART No. 90058; CARBURETTOR CONVERSION KIT (Himalayan); £369.00

Carburettor conversion kit for the fuel injected Himalayan models. This kit includes all the components required to convert your Himalayan away from fuel injection to a CV carburettor.
This will give similar performance figures to the fuel injection system but the main benefit is simplicity and the ability to fine tune the carburettor yourself to match the engine or any future modifications you make to the bike.
All of the components are bolt on items, and it is a completely reversible modification. Supplied jetted to suit the standard Himalayan model.
This only fits 2018 - 2021 fuel injection models where the standard ECU is located under the seat.