My 2 pesos:
Kudos on the BB regulator. The OEM Indian units seem to allow battery charging voltage to hover at 16V, soon boiling the battery dry. The BB unit regulates precisely, hovering around 13.5V-14V @ full charge.
Wiring is a weak point on these. The wiring can be really simplified if you move the ignition switch to the LH battery/tool box area and let the AC headlight run continuously, the number of conductors drops precipitously. The ammeter is useful for starting, but an LED indicating point closure would be just as helpful if needed at all. Skip the ammeter & the wiring cleans up fast, use a voltmeter & clock to fill the holes.
I'm ambivalent about scrapping the kill switch. A PB grounding around the points mimics the existing main switch scheme & would require only 1 small wire. A kill PB is useful when laying in the dirt with the throttle pinned open,.
The AC headlight uses an AC regulator and Hi/Lo handlebar switch - 2 wires, L1 & N. An AC compatible LED headlight or diode bridge with smoothing cap would reduce current draw to 3-4 amps max.
Your other wiring is horn & speedo/casquette lighting, & maybe turn signals. A (+) to the horn switch and casquette LED lamps from the battery, a (-) to the casquette for actual ground, mount the horn to the triple clamps near the turn signal. Turn signals are 3 small wires, a (+) from the TS flasher unit to the switch (on-R-off-on-L), then 2 wires back to the LH & RH signals. Speedo illumination is moot, as you end up driving these machines by feel anyway, and night riding is best left to those that still heal rapidly.
The front brake switch is superfluous as is the clutch switch. The rear brake is applied when coming to a stop anyway.
If you are removing the E-start, even more wire disappears. To keep it & increase reliability, ground the solenoid at the toolbox & put a single (+) back from a start PB back to it. You don't need the permissive as the sprag can't "engage" the running engine like a bendix can, anytime engine RPM exceeds sprag speed power transmission stops. My 350ES works flawlessly now that the solenoid is getting full voltage. IF it frags AND you like the ES feature, H's has a (not cheap) kit that really improves the situation parts wise. Other than removing the ES guts & cheaply plugging off the ES starter motor hole, you'd have to buy & fit up a KS(kickstart) inner case.
I have some home-brew PDF's if you are interested in a starting point for a minimized scheme. You can modify as wanted using Microsoft Paint.
Good hunting - ACR -