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@ #33: " Do you honestly believe different valve clearances (within spec) are going to be measurable by timing the bike down the road? Even if it were possible to time/ judge speed accurately?  I think you actually know the answer to that, or is that your point so Indibiker sees no difference? In which case that would've been a good suggestion to make initially. "

That's it exactly Carl. As you did, putting numbers to a thing tells the tale. It's easier to guide folks if they aren't being attacked. That's why I responded initially  " Again, without dyno time you can't really quantify the effect. " The idea being to put some numbers on it, see what's real.
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Bullet Iron Barrel / The next Gremlin
« Last Post by Flaekingr on Today at 02:09:00 pm »
Hey folks.

I've come across an issue that actually made me decide to lay up the bike over winter, which I never do.
Last October I took my 04 500 KS on a holiday from northern England down to the south, across to London and back home. Bike was amazing through the whole trip, I made sure to go over the potential problem areas contstantly and all was well. Except on the way back north, about 150 miles from home at about 9pm. My tail light had blown and I didn't feel like getting taken out by a semi, so I stopped into a services to see what could be done. The shop didn't stock the right light, and I had a box of 10 of them...that I'd left at home ::)
So I used a bit of folded cardboard to jam the brake light switch open, figuring I'd rather have a solidly on brake light than no light at all. It worked, but the bike only ran for about 20 seconds before dying, then 10, then 5, then it wouldn't start at all. I figured it was draining the battery too much at idle, so I removed the bodge and it started no problem, but I obviously still couldn't ride it and expect to arrive home unscathed. A biker eventually rolled in who happened to have a spare, (big shoutout to biker camaraderie!) and I got ready to leave. Same thing though, the bike ran for about 20 seconds, then less, then not at all. I eventually had to call my breakdown company and arrange a pickup, which was a whole other nightmare that I won't bore you with. About an hour later I tried the bike again, lo and behold it started and stayed at idle, so I jumped and rode home while I could. It's worth noting that the tail light filament had gone again by the time I got home, but not the brake light filament.

So about a week later I replaced the bulb again and went for a ride. I got maybe 10 miles up the road, and the bike just cut out on me. I was cruising at about 40mph, I think I'd just rolled off the throttle to stop for an intersection, or was just about to, and yeah, engine just cut out. I pushed the bike to a safe spot and tried to kick it over, nothing. I decided to give it half an hour and try again, a nice person stopped to check on me (shoutout again to biker camaraderie) and we had a wee chat about old bikes. So the bike started again right away, I rode it home and it's been in the garage since. I don't have room in my tiny garage to actually work on it and it was getting to cold, wet and miserable to be outside trying to chase this issue down.

Congratulations if you've made it this far. I know I've banged on a bit but I wanted to paint a thorough picture of what's going on. So, what's going on? Where do I start? The weather is getting better and I'm real ancy to get out on two wheels again, but I don't fancy being stranded.

Any help and advice would be great!
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   A simple fix (that doesn't address any damage) is simply to extend the side stand, this could be used temporarily or permanent.

    Put the bike on the stand loaded as you would use it, place thin pieces of wood or something under the stand until you get the bike to lean how you'd like it.

  This thickness is what needs adding to the bottom of the stand permanently, either wood or hard plastic, welded or bolted.
    Google "side stand extender".

Interesting, I placed some wooden planks beneath the side stand. The bad lean can be corrected with around 2.5 inches of wood under the side stand.
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Couple of thoughts first remove the stand and measure the slot and make sure it is parallel i.e. the stand slot has not opened up? If it has stick it in a vice and squeeze it.
If that is ok then it must be the actual bracket OR the pivot pin/hole. If it's the pivot a large washer or possibly 2 might do the trick.
If the stand has a lot of up/down movement it might be worth trying it.
Now if it's the bracket then it's a bit trickier as the frame is powder coated so you can't heat it up and just bend it back or rather you can but the powder coat will burn off.
Possibly someone holding the bike or an axle stand under the frame behind the bracket and a long lever on the bracket might do the trick.
You need to stop the bike/frame flexing down when you lever it eg long tube with a slot cut in it or a hole and bolt through the hole.
Hammering it won't help as the whole bike  will flex downwards making any hammer blows ineffective.
It's probably not bent as much as you think as any small movement in the pivot will  be larger on the bike.
Finally depending on the bike condition or your own views the bracket could have a groove cut in it and bend it back to where it should be then fill the slot with weld and grind smooth.
Obviously this will affect the finish on the bike so the choice is yours.
The older bullet had a separate bracket but the 350J bracket is welded to the frame.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

The side stand and the pivot pin bolt are new since they were replaced in an attempt to check if this resolved the lean angle. So the bracket slot on the side stand must be parallel since the stand itself is a new replacement.

The up-down movement of the stand is less than 1 inch and seems to be within limits, as compared to the play on Dexter's meteor side stand.
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Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: Spark Plug equivalents
« Last Post by Monkee on Today at 01:16:58 pm »
The lore (not the law! ) is that you use a non-resistor plug with a suppressor plug cap or a resistor plug with a plain plug cap.

The 2nd plug uses a M10x1.0mm thread, and there are chainsaw engine de-compressors with this thread, though with the 2nd plug being in a fairly awkward location it might not be too easy to use. Possibly use a M10 male to M10 female adapter to move it out to were gloved fingers can more easily reach it.

A.

Thats actually a pretty cool idea! i'll look into this! THANKS!
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535 Continental GT / Re: Geoffs Modifications
« Last Post by Geoff Vader on Today at 12:16:45 pm »
Just a small suggestion guys.

If you want to have an argument about Li/Po Li/Ion or Pb batteries then fuck off and start your own thread, don’t hijack mine :)
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Clearly I haven't had enough sleep.... I have access to a GT535 top yoke. If someone has access to a 650 top yoke.....

Regards and thanks...

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350 J Platform / Re: Lower rpm vibration.
« Last Post by wojtek_pl on Today at 10:05:02 am »
Of course it may be something completely different. That was just my case.
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535 Continental GT / Re: Geoffs Modifications
« Last Post by BakerDom on Today at 09:49:57 am »
Hi Gunr
Thank you for the information.

Whilst it is possible to use a non-Lithium charger - the 'caveat' in the video is that -

The presenter states that the charger would need to have a power supply 'mode' and the charger  - would then would need to be switched to this power supply 'mode' - to provide the right charge.

I was simply try to advise the use of an appropriate charger...

Gizzo,

Thank you for your further updates.

Please note - I am not insisting all ---- everyone is free to make their own choice.

In answer to you question - yes there was a short section that I cut and pasted as I thought it relevant and useful - its from a very informative article from Motorcycle.com  - please see - full article here -  https://www.motorcycle.com/products/lithium-motorcycle-batteries-myths-vs-realities

So-

Further information  -

Some also say - don't use a PB acid charger, some say make sure you don't use a charger with the de-sulpherisation cycle, others say some they charge at too high an amperage, etc...

Modern good quality Motorcycle Lithium batteries have BMS systems built in - which should protect the Li battery.

From my experience - with over 45 years of riding bikes/repairing/rebuilding my own/servicing etc...... which included 6 years at a lead smelter/refiner - which also included dealing the recycling many different types of batteries and seeing various issues that had occurred - for whatever charging/aging reason.

I am only sharing my experience -

I top up my batteries once a month over the winter - so no problems with the Li batteries or my Pb batteries - its simply a precaution for my own peace of mind.

I had replaced an old Optimate charger which wasn't suitable for the Li battery - when I checked with supplier (and no I didn't buy another from them) - I went with the Motorpower one - which can do both types of battery - as its an 'automatic' charger.

I perhaps should have been clearer in the detail previously supplied - when I said I only use a Lithium charger - so for the sake of clarity and to be more specific -

Its a Motorpower Automatic Charger - which will charger PB acid or Li batteries.

I was simply try to advise the use of an appropriate charger...


Hope this helps!
 



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Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: Spark Plug equivalents
« Last Post by SteveThackery on Today at 09:33:54 am »
I did. Actually, your original post said, "the resistor has NO effect until AFTER the spark is formed."

The pseudo-NGK site says the resistor has an effect on the formation of the spark, and therefore on the creation of RFI. Two quite different things.

As to the damping of oscillations, the site makes no mention of oscillations, or of the creation of RFI in the secondary circuit, except at the spark plug gap.

I'm sorry - my previous reply was ridiculously long, and I'm too late to edit it down.

To summarise :

The website and I differ only in our choice of words.

To begin: the resistor only does something when current is flowing in it, so it has no effect before the spark begins to form.

As the spark begins to form and current starts to flow, a voltage drop is formed across the resistor, slightly reducing the energy available at the spark.

After the initial current surge the current in the secondary circuit (coil secondary, HT lead, spark plug, internal resistor, spark gap, earth return) starts to oscillate at a high frequency. Oscillating current in a conductor causes the conductor to radiate electromagnetic waves - radio frequency interference (RFI) .

The resistor dampens the oscillations so they die away very quickly, in turn greatly reducing the RFI.
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