[Dalgrae]

Hi having tried everything,I still cannot get rid of clutch drag completely,if I come to a halt whilst still in gear I cannot get it to change gear at all,or go into neutral,I have replaced the clutch drum/facing plate with the best second hand item I could find,I have changed all the plates and carefully filed all the tangs to remove any sharp edges, changed the cable and loads of other work,but still it drags.Does anyone have any experience of Hitchcocks new clutch drum/ facing plate,I know it is a lot of money but if it sorts the problem it would be worth considering.

Any advice most welcome.     Colin

[Dalgrae]

Hi ,just incase I have used the wrong terminology when I refer to the clutch drum it relates to the item that is the taper fit onto the mainshaft

[Mark M]

It is usual on British bikes to select neutral before coming to a stop, and it will be hard to find neutral when stationary. If you've been brought up on Jap bikes this may not feel natural! Can you change gear easily on the move?
REgards, Mark

[Dalgrae]

Hi thanks for this,yes gears change easy going up and down the box but not with bike stationary and engine running,I have not been brought up on Japanese,all my other old bikes are fine

Colin

[Rasp]

It isn't usual for neutral to be awkward to select at a standstill on a British bike. If your clutch 'lifts' far enough it won't drag. Check adjustment, cable condition and any unwanted play in the leaver and lifting mechanism.

[Dalgrae]

I have stripped out the clutch and ordered new friction plates,as the existing cork plates were badly worn and very hard,my question is do I fit the thin circlip item 6 part number 39305 ,or not,all the year parts books show it  keeps the clutch drum sprocket in place,but a maintenance overhaul article states it was only fitted upto 1963 with the ball brg type clutch drum sprocket,after that with the plain brg type it was not required

Regards. Colin