Author Topic: 2014 GT535 - "The Ton" dreamer  (Read 29643 times)

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StreetKleaver

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on: February 04, 2022, 09:46:39 am
Hi guys. I'm Ben from Queensland, Australia. Background is Hot Rods, Kustom Kulture and few custom bikes over the years. Been riding and racing bikes for 25 years. Mainly Enduro and the odd motocross but always had a soft spot for British and classic motorcycles thanks to my late grandfather.
Mechanical Fitter and Boilermaker are my trades, so it goes somewhat hand in hand with my hobbies!  :D

Latest acquisition is this 2014 GT535 to go alongside my Bullet 535, which I'll have a thread in the Iron Barrel section.

After I got it home, it had seen a bit of neglect. Cases had some sort of acid wash attempt on them to get them clean which tarnish and left the cases in a bit of state. Sadly the acid used had eaten a lot of the chrome on the header pipe. Which is the standard steam pipe wall thickness header.

Brake Fluid was still original and was causing the brakes to drag. After a flush out and some fresh fluid that sorted the issue.

Temporarily welded a baffle into the tail end of the header just to quieten it up. With that revers megaphone it was borderline setting off car alarms it was that loud. Sounded great, but still way too loud.

Here's a photo after round 1 of polishing and general tidy up.




Stabled, 2 generations of Enfields!



Next came stage one of the modifications.

Hitcocks Venturi Plate and K&N Filter. Carberry Plate, Fresh Oil change and Filter, Cam lash set and Cam end float adjusted with a extra 0.2 shim on each.

Crankcase breather hose fitted with a non return/check valve and exiting down to the left side of the bike and the airbox bunged off.



Power Commander V installed with the Hitchcocks map uploaded. Future proof for the modifications to come.
Factory loom tidied up under the tank along with the fuel line. Fitting the tank somewhat smooshes everything into place. That concerned me, so I sorted that out.



I also TIG pad welded the rear brake pedal stop to increase the thickness so it lowers its height. Bit of an oversight that any height adjustment couldn't be made.

Just waiting on a rear tyre, re-new the rego and it will be game on!
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Adrian II

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Reply #1 on: February 04, 2022, 10:52:53 am
If you read up on Taurim's bike, you'll see that The Ton is achievable!

Meanwhile, I'll just leave this here, seen at one of the Sammy Miller Museum ride-ins...

A.

Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


StreetKleaver

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Reply #2 on: February 04, 2022, 11:03:11 am
If you read up on Taurim's bike, you'll see that The Ton is achievable!

I've had a good read on his bike, it's fantastic. As a base line idea I had most of the modifications in mind what he's done. It's going to be a slow road, but hopefully I too can have a fast/slow bike. :)

I do see a familiar Mikuni VM carburetor there. ;)
Cut my teeth on those bad boys along with Mikuni TM/TMX and Keihin PWKs.
59 Club UK/Australia


Taurim

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Reply #3 on: February 04, 2022, 11:27:42 am
Hi Ben !

I'm going to follow this thread with a lot of interest  :)

The position of the rear brake pedal is the first thing I noticed on your first photo  ;)
I had the same AEW megaphone. It was way too loud too !


StreetKleaver

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Reply #4 on: February 04, 2022, 11:40:36 am
Hi Ben !

I'm going to follow this thread with a lot of interest  :)

The position of the rear brake pedal is the first thing I noticed on your first photo  ;)
I had the same AEW megaphone. It was way too loud too !

Thanks mate.

Yeah, the rear brake. I had to physically hike my leg up to operate it.
I tend to use the rear brake to wash speed off, the front to really slow down.

Was very annoying. I pad welded it up 3 times. Eventually settled on the height its at now. Comfortable enough without hitting the exhaust.

Right now in planning my attack. I may even rebuild the crank and replace all bottom end bearings.

Also investigating if the cylinder sleeve can be pressed out and it sent down to Melbourne to be Nikasil coated for wear longevity as well as decreasing the friction.

But the Bullet 535 is in line first for a few more things to be finished off.  :)
59 Club UK/Australia


Mr_84

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Reply #5 on: February 04, 2022, 12:37:43 pm
Looks like you may just very well have the skills and determination to make this dream a reality, good luck and hope there's not to many offerings to the "gods of speed" along the way


Taurim

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Reply #6 on: February 04, 2022, 12:48:51 pm
Aim for 170 kph  ;D

You will replace the injection with a carb ? If not I would suggest you to replace the stock Keihin ECU by a fully programmable injection.
My 2017 535 is "Euro 4"  and there is too many limits when you tune it with a PCV. It's OK for constant acceleration at any rpm but I can't correct a problem when re-accelerating from 3.5K RPM which produces... nothing ! I have to open the throttle no more than 80% to have acceleration.
Also over 5.5K RPM (PC V function "Rev Extend") if I shut the throttle then open it back up there is no acceleration at all. I have to let the engine go under 5.5 before being able to re-accelerate.
A piggy back PC V is not a very good tuning solution for a highly tuned engine.

I have not yet decided to replace it with something like that but I'm thinking about it... Maybe next Winter ?...

https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/ignijet/ignijet%201cyl/ignijet%201cyl.htm
https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/ignijet/ignijet%201cyl/manual_ignijet_2008_en.pdf


Arschloch

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Reply #7 on: February 04, 2022, 04:13:01 pm
Same issue here above 5500rpm with the rev-xtend. I would go for a carb though if it was bugging me, or if I wanted to tune the engine further. My throttle body is already rebored to 36mm.

@StreetKleaver, the ton is on! ...looking forward to see your efforts.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2022, 04:32:15 pm by derottone »


Taurim

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Reply #8 on: February 04, 2022, 05:07:25 pm
Same issue here above 5500rpm with the rev-xtend. I would go for a carb though if it was bugging me, or if I wanted to tune the engine further. My throttle body is already rebored to 36mm.

It is not really a problem as I know the problem and how to avoir it.

How did you perform the modification of your throttle body ?
It is simply rebored to 36mm and you replaced the butterfly valve ?
Which one did you use ?
« Last Edit: February 04, 2022, 05:11:06 pm by Taurim »


Arschloch

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Reply #9 on: February 04, 2022, 05:12:46 pm
It is not really a problem as I know the problem and how to avoir it.

How did you perform the modification of your throttle body ?
It is simply rebored to 36mm and you replaced the butterfly valve ?

In simple words, yes. It's EU3 though, fortunately.


Taurim

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Reply #10 on: February 04, 2022, 05:36:08 pm
Where did you find the 38mm valve ?
No special precaution to disassemble and reassemble throttle body components and sensors ?

I'm asking... just in case...  :)


Arschloch

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Reply #11 on: February 04, 2022, 05:41:10 pm
Where did you find the 38mm valve ?
No special precaution to disassemble and reassemble throttle body components and sensors ?

I'm asking... just in case...  :)

38mm isn't possible in this throttle body unfortunately, i don't remember why exacly. The lollipop is just cut out of a piece of messing sheet.

In the pic you can see the original thrown in the rebored throttle body.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2022, 05:48:25 pm by derottone »


Taurim

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Reply #12 on: February 04, 2022, 06:02:38 pm
You mean 38mm rebore is not possible with the EU4 TB ?


Arschloch

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Reply #13 on: February 04, 2022, 06:07:15 pm
You mean 38mm rebore is not possible with the EU4 TB ?

Nope, 38mm wasn't possible because you would cut open some bore somewhere, i don't remember which, there is basically not enough material to rebore to 38mm.


Taurim

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Reply #14 on: February 04, 2022, 06:18:37 pm
But you can with the EU3 TB ?

So I would have to find an older TB and try to adapt it to EU4 sensors (if there is a difference)  ???