[kikdrum18]

If you like the look, go for it. But rim size should be the limiting factor.

Per this chart, 150 is max. That being said, visually a 150 doesn't have the look of a "fat" tire on the bike. Just a bit more meaty.

[Deathwish]

My last bike (M109r) came with a 280 rear tire stock. My ZX12r had a 200. The M109r handled like a three legged pig on crack while the ZX12r was quite agile for a big bike. Put on whatever size tire you want to try. If you like it, screw the naysayers! You can't please everyone and, frankly, it's a hell of a lot more fun pissing them off.

[.]

As far as I know, the tyre size, as in diameter, has nothing to do with perceived stability, just that the bigger the circle, the less it's upset by unevenness.

I believe the main reason why a tyre feels wiggly, is down to the contact patch with the road being small, in that particular riding condition.

Most tyres are shaped to increase the contact patch when the bike leans at a particular angle.

Consider the cross section of an ideal tyre for a motorcycle with sidecar, which'll look like a car tyre, ie square. That's because it's always upright.

Now imagine a tyre for a motorcycle that gives the greatest contact patch with the road, when it's leant over at, for example, 20°. Well it'll have a cross section that reminds of a 20° sloping roof.

Also, motorcycle tyres are made of different rubbers. For example in the previous 20° version, that corresponding wide shoulder might be made of soft and grippy rubber while the contact patch when the bike is upright , ie the spine, might be made of harder and longer lasting rubber.
I think the Bridgestone Battlax tyres are something like that.

Think cross section of tyre and therein you'll find it's wiggliness.   



Oh, and the fatter the tyre, the wider/ bigger the contact patch and perceived stability (and reluctance to quickly steer round tight bends).

[lucky phil]

As far as I know, the tyre size, as in diameter, has nothing to do with perceived stability, just that the bigger the circle, the less it's upset by unevenness.

I believe the main reason why a tyre feels wiggly, is down to the contact patch with the road being small, in that particular riding condition.

Most tyres are shaped to increase the contact patch when the bike leans at a particular angle.

Consider the cross section of an ideal tyre for a motorcycle with sidecar, which'll look like a car tyre, ie square. That's because it's always upright.

Now imagine a tyre for a motorcycle that gives the greatest contact patch with the road, when it's leant over at, for example, 20°. Well it'll have a cross section that reminds of a 20° sloping roof.

Also, motorcycle tyres are made of different rubbers. For example in the previous 20° version, that corresponding wide shoulder might be made of soft and grippy rubber while the contact patch when the bike is upright , ie the spine, might be made of harder and longer lasting rubber.
I think the Bridgestone Battlax tyres are something like that.

Think cross section of tyre and therein you'll find it's wiggliness.   



Oh, and the fatter the tyre, the wider/ bigger the contact patch and perceived stability (and reluctance to quickly steer round tight bends).

So you haven't turned your mind to the fact that the bigger rear tyre with larger Diameter raises the back of the bike 14mm compared to the 130 and steepens the steering head angle and reduces the trail which is opposite to what's required for better/increased stability?

Phil

[JessHerbst]

One more question  what pressure are you running?
 Too low will cause wobble.

[.]

lucky phil,

yes you are right, I had indeed failed to consider the implications on overall geometry.

kikdrum18 reported a more solid feeling bike. I wonder what could have masked the twitchier steering?

[lucky phil]

lucky phil,

yes you are right, I had indeed failed to consider the implications on overall geometry.

kikdrum18 reported a more solid feeling bike. I wonder what could have masked the twitchier steering?

I've never fitted new tyres to a bike that didn't feel significantly better in steering to the worn tyres removed. Why? Two basic reasons. One is the new tyre is a nice profile due to being unworn and second the carcase is new fresh and has not yet been subjected to mileages that fatigue it and cause it to lose a percentage of it's original shape and rigidity. Another major factor in instability that people forget to check is front wheel bearing condition. The front wheel bearings only need a small amount of wear at the bearing to cause a noticeable amount movement at the rim and this causes vague steering and in some cases variable brake lever travel. If you have instability issues check the front wheel bearing play with the calliper removed and the wheel off the ground.

Phil

[NVDucati]

So you haven't turned your mind to the fact that the bigger rear tyre with larger Diameter raises the back of the bike 14mm compared to the 130 and steepens the steering head angle and reduces the trail which is opposite to what's required for better/increased stability?

Phil

Don't think all the tire brands are the same but 14mm sounds like a fair estimate. And you are not wrong about the "steepness". Still, ... one would hopefully get a slightly larger front tire, too. Plus slide the forks down to flush ... I think you (y'all) will be quite pleased.
_ In these discussions we don't give much traction (sorry) to the obvious comfort and peacefulness that comes from the proportional size reduction of the pock marks, divots, and holes in the road that comes with a larger contact patch. When I first got the RE I was always picking a path on the less perfect roads. Most folks do. But mentally that uses up some of the "Keith Code Dollar" unnecessarily.
_ I'm always a little puzzled at how terrified we all are of our tires. 

[gizzo]

I've never fitted new tyres to a bike that didn't feel significantly better in steering to the worn tyres removed.

I love that new tyre feeling. I tend to not notice how the feel degrades as the tyre goes away. New tyres make me remember how good it can be.

[whippers]

I am one of the few who seem to find the stock tires to be adequate and worth wearing out before changing. I know another rider reports a good result from 110/80 front and 140/70 rear which only modestly raises the rear ride height and of course slightly raising the final gearing.

A wider tyre is going to slow the turn in down and maybe that is what some mean when they talk about feeling more stable. Not everyone likes the idea of a bike just neutrally turning in they feel like they are going to fall over. A wider tire is going to require that you apply more counter steering pressure to get it over.  I remain of the view from my experience that the Enfield twin is a very good handling bike with pretty sharp geometry.  It is certainly the most surprising thing about it for me as it doesn’t have to be this good.

For the OP the merits of a wide, heavy duty cruiser tire have been well debated elsewhere. If he feels better with a wider tyre you can be pretty sure that a 140 (better suited to the rim width) with less impact in ride height he will be well pleased.  The obvious choice seems to be BT46 but Conti, Avons and Michelin all offer similarly grippy alternatives that are an upgrade over the stock tyre and a Shinko SR777HD

[NJ Mike]

I had always found the stock sizes good enough, and I've had on two sets of Michelin's, Pilot Activ and Street Classic, and a set of BT46's, all of which were fine and all of which were a quantum leap better than the OEM Pirelli's.

However this time I wanted to try radial tires which tend to be more supple in construction and I was hoping for better corner feedback. I found that Bridgestone made T32's in sizes I could fit, 110/80 in the front, which is wider but lower profile than stock and works out to be about the same radius, and 140/70 in the rear, which is a bit wider and with the same aspect ratio as stock and hence about 5mm taller than stock.

Turn in felt a bit sluggish at first, but in reality after a few miles I didn't notice, but cornering feel is much different, and I do feel more planted in high speed sweepers. It holds the line through the corner without any tendency to drift or squirm that I sometimes felt with the bias construction.

Also, the profile seems to be different enough so that I'm not going to the edge of the front tire as much in corners and feel like I have a bit more tread in reserve. My chicken strips are wider, but I feel safer, and bottom line, that's what it's all about.

And as a bonus, they are fantastic in the rain.

[JessHerbst]

Don't think all the tire brands are the same but
14mm sounds like a fair estimate. And you are not wrong about the "steepness". Still, ... one would hopefully get a slightly larger front tire, too. Plus slide the forks down to flush ... I think you (y'all) will be quite pleased.
_ In these discussions we don't give much traction (sorry) to the obvious comfort and peacefulness that comes from the proportional size reduction of the pock marks, divots, and holes in the road that comes with a larger contact patch. When I first got the RE I was always picking a path on the less perfect roads. Most folks do. But mentally that uses up some of the "Keith Code Dollar" unnecessarily.
_ I'm always a little puzzled at how terrified we all are of our tires. 

14 exactly

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=130-70r18-150-70r18

[kikdrum18]

Just a fun fact I failed to mention:
The bike had roughly 200 miles on it prior to removing the stock tires. So I went from new tires to new tires.

The consensus seems to be some say better tires take away the wiggles, some say it's the nature of the bike.

All I know (and application is important) is the bike feels good to me. Does it turn in as quick? Doubtful, but I'll sacrifice a little slower steering for a more planted feel. Again, application. I have no desire to prove anything on this bike other than it is a blast to ride. If that planted feel is imaginary, well....if you say so.

Regardless of the rear being 14mm taller, I haven't and still don't notice and twitchiness or wiggles.
2000 miles later and the bike feels consistent. I have no idea what the wear life is on these tires. I know I was running Michelin Pilot Powers and Dunlop Q3s on my sport bikes. I recall 3000+ miles was about the limit for them. I would imagine this 150 is probably the 4000+ range.

I still have the stock Ceat tires if anyone that's a fan wants them. I will give you a very reasonable price.

[Island Rider]

I am glad my tires aren't bald, the RE sizes seem out of stock just about everywhere!

[gizzo]

I am glad my tires aren't bald, the RE sizes seem out of stock just about everywhere!

That's a concern in the antipodes,too.i had to put whacky size tyres on my gsx250 because the correct sizes are unobtanium RN.