Ace: Are there any particular pitfalls that come to mind in that timing case that our man should be most aware of if he cracks it open? Easily mislaid shims, bushings, washers or seals? Peculiarly fragile items requiring extra care or peculiar torque settings? That sort of thing? Is Snidal's guide a reliable resource in all respects of removal and reinstallation? I do recall his stating that it is a task not to be taken lightly or just out of mere curiosity.
I ask as one with no experience mucking about in an Enfield's timing case (albeit plenty in a Norton twin's) just for future reference.
The timing cover gasket sets the end play for the cam gears, so it should not be damaged when removing the timing cover. If damaged, seek out one of the same thickness.
The timing chest is about 3/4 filled with oil. This creates a surface tension hold on the shims on the various shafts for the cams and idler gears, so they often come off when withdrawing the cover, and can get lost or mixed up. It is important to get the shims back on in the places where they were.
The worm gear is in engagement with the oil pump drive paddles, so it may need a bit of rotation to get the gear off the paddles. This can be made easier by removing the oil pumps first, but that complicates the whole procedure further, so some people prefer to leave them in.
Once the cover is off, be sure not to rotate the engine or idler gears if any of the cam gears or idler gears have come off. Otherwise, the ignition will be out of time with the engine, and it won't start, and you probably won't know why.
When you reassemble it, the timing chest needs to be manually refilled with oil via the tappet chamber drain holes, or else it will take too long to fill up by normal oil pump function, and some damage from lack of oil may occur.
It isn't a terribly difficult thing to do, but you need to know what you are doing, and what to watch out for.
Topic: Why does my bike keep breaking? (Read 25934 times)