[Monkee]

I can confirm i have no sidestand switch. I only have two relays in the side box. Fuel pump and signals. looking around the sidestand there is no switch or wires going down there.

[axman88]

So my AVL definitely worked in the same (wrong) way as the UCE. To be truthful I cannot remember exactly how my iron barrel behaved, but I know it had a sidestand switch. I strongly suspect that sidestand switches have been mandatory in the UK for decades.

I see that we have another forum member who seems to be describing yet another alternative side stand switch behavior with their 2010 C5:
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=36585.msg473090#msg473090 

It's interesting that it's called a "RELAY HARNESS ADD ON - SIDE STAND, UP TO 2013"
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/20760?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F2100

I see that RE also changed the switch P/N between Jan and Feb of 2013.  Looks like it was just the connector that changed.  https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/5070#page-5070-position-26

I'm starting to think there were at least three different builds.
   -  No switch at all
   -  Switch inhibits starter motor, but not ignition
   -  Switch inhibits ICU, but not starter motor

I apologize for not being able to contribute anything beyond speculation, but, when I get around to rebuilding my basket cases, I promise to document the circuits on my NA export bikes.

[SteveThackery]

   -  Switch inhibits starter motor, but not ignition

Where's the evidence for that middle one? I don't recall it coming up in the discussion so far.

[Monkee]

Where's the evidence for that middle one? I don't recall it coming up in the discussion so far.

I think from the other thread where the OP was having starting issues.

[SteveThackery]

I think from the other thread where the OP was having starting issues.

Oh yes, found it. Thanks.

[Morgan65]

Forgive me if you know this already, but this is the procedure.

1/ Don't try to kick it when sitting on the seat - stand up on your left leg

Edit: 1a/ Keep the throttle closed, and make sure it's in neutral. Ignition on and the kill-switch in the 'run' position, side stand retracted.

2/ Turn the engine over with the kick-start at a comfortable speed until you feel it come up to compression

3/ Let the kick-start lever return to the top

4/ Slowly push the lever through compression - two or three inches on the lever, maybe - and let it return to the top again

5/ Take a breath, then shift your weight to your right leg and plunge the lever down smoothly and as fast as you can. It should be a combination of your weight plus partially straightening your knee. Make sure your knee is still slightly bent at the bottom of the stroke.

If it's going to start, that should do it.

By positioning the engine at the top of the compression stroke you are giving yourself the longest possible "run up" time before the next compression stroke, which is what you want.

A couple more points: firstly, you could try cracking the throttle open a little bit to help the engine catch. Try it with a closed throttle first because that's how it normally starts. Secondly, some people advocate freeing up the clutch before plunging the kick-start lever. To do this, just before step 5/, pull in the clutch and push the kick-start lever right through a couple of strokes. Then release the lever and proceed to step 5/.

Plus one.
This is how I do it. 

[MowgliB5]

Tried kick starting mine for a nostalgia trip the other day and it started from cold so easy on first kick!!!!

Pressing the button is still easier though!!!!