[CPJS]

Just for the record, "goop" comes in two basic formats. Fiber particle latex and adhesive. The adhesive style cures after year or so into real nasty goop which won't work but is less expensive. The latex never cures and washes out with water. It is ready to work indefinately by packing the fiber elements into the puncture hole stopping the air from escaping rapidly (slow leak).

Speak to a tyre fitter and see what they think of the latex that quickly starts to air dry on their hands, tools and equiptment.

[NVDucati]

Speak to a tyre fitter and see what they think of the latex that quickly starts to air dry on their hands, tools and equiptment.

   Hi CPJS, Sorry for the short and generalized response. I should have described it as adhesive and non-adhesive. Latex is only one of the non-adhesive fluids used.
   I don't always change all of my own tires. I don't use tire sealant on my cars but I do use it on my trailers, truck and spoke'd motorcycles.
  The brand I use is "FlatOut". https://www.flatouttire.com/
" Prevents Flats & Seals Leaks — Serious puncture protection up to 1/2 inch!
Trusted by military, heavy construction, agriculture, delivery fleets and other demanding industrial users for over 35 years FlatOut Tire Additive by MULTI SEAL brings that same extreme performance to you!
Install now for 24/7 protection: Seals puncture after puncture for 10+ years.
Prevents up to 95% of flats and virtually eliminates slow leaks — Save Money, Save Time, and Stay Safe.
Unique formula with super-strong KEVLAR fibers is non-toxic plus NO latex/adhesives, so it never becomes a sticky mess. Easy water cleanup."
   I do agree with you that most tyre fitters (tire changers) would rather that you don't use anything in your tires. The question becomes, would they use it in theirs?

[CPJS]

 
  The brand I use is "FlatOut". https://www.flatouttire.com/

It looks to be a good product, however two types of transport it is not reccomended for are passenger cars and road motorcycles.

[NVDucati]

It looks to be a good product, however two types of transport it is not reccomended for are passenger cars and road motorcycles.

Yup. They are in the commercial, military, industrial market. Passenger car and motorcycle owners are a pain in the butt. I'm not recommending it either. Still, my tires don't know who owns them, so I use it.

[grahamfirestorm]

Yes i agree with nvtducati,i would rather have it my tyres than none at all.At tyre change time i will replace the tubes anyway.This BIKESEAL is not just ordinary gloop,its been intensively developed and tested and is supposed to seal up to 5mm diameter holes quickly,it doesnt dry up either but remains fluid,do your research,look it up and decide after youve read about it.

[agagliardi]

NV Ducati- FlatOut carries 4 different formulas. Which one is best for our tubes

[Noelvh]

I do ride with NJ Mike, but we were not together when I got my flat I was with 9fingers.
Well it was in a bad location no cell bla bla bla and a $300 tow. So I decided to learn flat repair and I did just that when I got my new tube. Below is the video when I got my flat and the is the video of my tools I carry on my bike for when I get another one. I took my tools and only using them fixed my flat at home and I did not use anything in my garage to fix the flat. I learnd allot and feel confident I will be able to fix on the road. I am think of the tubeless kit just not sure I have the patience to do it but this may be my next winter project.

https://youtu.be/FaliNrfjct0
https://youtu.be/YaHxx87zVcU

[zimmemr]

I haven't changed an Interceptor tire yet, but I've probably changed over a thousand in my lifetime, so far the worst have been the new Bonneville's and their off shoots, on some of those I seriously thought abut chucking the spacer in a lathe and either chamfering the edges or shortening the thing by a few thou. I've even seen some guys use a bottle jack to spread the swing arm slightly I was hoping the Interceptor would be less finicky.

[biscot]

I've done it a few times in my garage, with tools, jacks, stands, shims, etc. available and it wasn't that tough. I shudder to think what it might be like on the road - still not sure what I might want to carry to make it possible. Meanwhile, I keep my AAA card close to my heart.

[zimmemr]

Is it just a tight fit between the swing arm or is there something else going on? Would it help to remove the caliper, so that you're not trying to slip the wheel into place while you're trying to position the chain on the sprocket and the disc in the caliper?

[Hoiho]

It's not tight, just awkward, shuffling everything into alignment, lifting the wheel, pushing the axle bolt. The spacer easily gets unseated from the hub, the ABS disk catches on everything, the brake caliper mount flops about....

NV's pinch-bar tip is a good one, gives you a third hand to wrangle the mess into aligment. 

For those people changing flats on the side of the road - add some nitrile gloves to your kit; you get covered in chain grease, brake caliper grime etc...

[zimmemr]

It's not tight, just awkward, shuffling everything into alignment, lifting the wheel, pushing the axle bolt. The spacer easily gets unseated from the hub, the ABS disk catches on everything, the brake caliper mount flops about....

NV's pinch-bar tip is a good one, gives you a third hand to wrangle the mess into aligment. 

For those people changing flats on the side of the road - add some nitrile gloves to your kit; you get covered in chain grease, brake caliper grime etc...

Thanks, that's handy info to have. I always use my lift raise the bike to working height, than place a scissors jack under the bike, so I can fine tune the height and get everything lined up properly. In some instances I'll also remove the rear caliper so I don't have to worry about the pads
fouling on the rotor.

[biscot]

It's not tight, just awkward, shuffling everything into alignment, lifting the wheel, pushing the axle bolt. The spacer easily gets unseated from the hub, the ABS disk catches on everything, the brake caliper mount flops about....

NV's pinch-bar tip is a good one, gives you a third hand to wrangle the mess into aligment. 

For those people changing flats on the side of the road - add some nitrile gloves to your kit; you get covered in chain grease, brake caliper grime etc...

[biscot]

Somehow I just posted an empty reply. Meant to agree with Hoiho - it's really a matter of careful alignment. I don't think you can easily hold things in place without some physical aids - shims or whatever, but with patience it will slide in.
I can fit the nitrile gloves in my road kit, just not sure what to take in terms of other tools. Getting the wheel out is one thing, breaking and re-setting the bead another, and of course getting the wheel back in, hopefully without any damage to anything.

[zimmemr]

Somehow I just posted an empty reply. Meant to agree with Hoiho - it's really a matter of careful alignment. I don't think you can easily hold things in place without some physical aids - shims or whatever, but with patience it will slide in.
I can fit the nitrile gloves in my road kit, just not sure what to take in terms of other tools. Getting the wheel out is one thing, breaking and re-setting the bead another, and of course getting the wheel back in, hopefully without any damage to anything.

I've replaced a few tubes on the road and it's always a PITA, especially if you're trying not scrape things up: your hands, the rim, whatever. In the woods it's a little easier 'cause no one worries to much about scratching up a trail bike rim. Usually the bead will break pretty easily, as it goes flat it wants to roll off the rim anyway, and the tire is usually good and soft by then, but some of them can be a bitch. I've seen guys tilt the bike on the center stand, sneak the tire under it, then use the weight of the bike and the center stand leg to break the bead but that always seemed a bit risky. 
If I were out touring I'd find some place to carry a vice grip style welding clamp, they work well at breaking the bead, but blowing the thing back up is going to tricky unless you have some type of compressor with you. I once pumped up a BMW tire with the bikes hand pump, then gently rode to the nearest gas station to seat the bead, but these days even that's a long shot.

I don't normally recommend converting to tubeless tires, and I'm not planning it on my bike, but if you don't feel comfortable doing tire work, especially on the side of the road, it does make sense.