Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: palace15 on November 04, 2012, 07:48:20 pm
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2 weeks ago I left the oil to drain out of my C5 in my workshop, today I replaced filters etc and put fresh oil into the engine. Whilst the bike was still on the Hydraulic bench I was standing on the right of the bike and started it, there was the most horrendous noise until the engine was running, I only get this noise intermittently, and pretty sure they are coming from the left hand side of the engine, surely with less than 8000 miles on the clock its not the Sprag clutch? I am hoping that once the fresh oil as got everywhere it will cease to make these noises or am I dreaming?
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It's hard to say.
A horrendous noise could be anything from a grinding to a ticking to a hammering sound.
Is it like the clicking/ticking sound mattsz's engine is making in his video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET6UH-c8VKo
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Thanks Arizoni for your reply, today I ventured down my workshop hoping it had been just a dream ;) It appears the noise is related to the starter motor and 'feels' real bad when i thumb the starter with my hand on top of the chain cover at the end of the starter motor(cover with 1 short and 3 long Allen bolts attaching it) Once the bike starts the noise goes. gonna check the manual but the best I can describe is 'a heavy crunching where gears are not correctly engaging'.
The Youtube clip you linked sounds to me a lazy tappet, as it appears to stop once revved, but who knows!
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Has your engine ever kicked back during starting, or has the auto-decompressor ever been removed, or failed to operate?
These would be possible causes of a starter sprag failure.
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Has your engine ever kicked back during starting, or has the auto-decompressor ever been removed, or failed to operate?
These would be possible causes of a starter sprag failure.
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Never noticed any kickback during starting, and I have never touched any auto decompressor, I have never had any reason to suspect any kind of problem until now, am suspecting the s/motor as in my post above
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+1. What you just described sounds like a failing sprag. If you've had kickbacks or the battery ran really low and you tried to start it that could have contributed. Sometimes it will slip if the battery is just low. Try charging your battery and make sure it's up to proper voltage.
Scott
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Thanks so far for replies and please keep them coming!, the battery had been fully charged and does not hesitate when the starter button is pushed, would a failing 'sprag' give off a heavy vibe from the cover I described?
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It definitely would! The sprag live in the left side case near the front. Anything and everything in the starter system will shudder when it's slipping. Get it to your dealer. Are you under warranty?
Scott
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Its out of warranty, I got a spare sprag when I was in India, I am far from impressed that it has failed at less than 8000 miles :'(
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Ok Guys, I took the primary side cover off today for a quick peek, a few very fine silver filings in the bottom of the case but nothing drastic, can anyone tell me how do I take the tension off the primary chain? is it just undo the 2 allen head bolts? Do I need any special tools for replacing the Sprag?, I have a complete spare sprag including the gears, but after ony 8k was proposing to replace just the bearing. I have looked on youtube in the hope of some answers but no luck.
Can anyone perhaps know of any links on here? Not even Singh5g has got anything posted on youtube about it!
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I can check the factory manual for you when I get home.
Scott
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I can check the factory manual for you when I get home.
Scott
Much appreciated
Dave
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So to loosen the primary chain you remove the bottom bolt on the auto tensioner, an o-ring and spring will come out too. Unlcok the clip and press to loosen the chain. Then you need special tool ST-25591-4 to lock the engine sprocket and clutch basket in place. Once they are immobilized you unbolt both of them. Then slide both off with the chain. I guess there's not enough slack in the chain to remove just the engine sprocket and they have to come out together with it. I suppose you could improvise a tool to hold the sprocket and clutch basket in place but it sure looks like they both need to come off.
http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/sprocket-clutch-tightening-tool.html
Scott
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My normal practice with the Iron Barrel primary is to loosen the bolts on the clutch and crank first, when I know that I'll be taking them out.
You can put the bike in gear,and have someone apply the rear brake, and that will hold it all still while you loosen the bolts.
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Nice tip Ace, thanks :)
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Hello everyone,
And sorry for the hijack palace15, I also had a query regarding engine noise.
Today, after a decent ride, I decided to record the silencer sound/noise of my RE just for fun. Playing the clip on the PC and listening to the noise had me wondering whether the tappet/lifters noise is excessive? I'm aware that these machines do make some engine noise due to tappets and what not, which is considered normal. However, I just wanted to have the opinion of my fellow RE owners whether the noise/clatter in my case is okay or not. I am confident that it should be alright, and when I recorded this, the bike was kind of in a confined space. But still, your input, comments and suggestions will be useful :D
Here's the clip - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=
Thanks
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Personally I would not be bothered by the noises you have, especially being in a confined space as the bike is. My C5 sounds like a 'bag o' shite' when started in my workshop, and improves somewhat when out on the road.
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If you don't have anyone there to hold down the brake pedal, just crank down your brake adjuster nut until the brake is locked.
Bare