[Willbrunei]

Hi all - me again.

All has been well but today a minor disaster.

I was kicking the bike over when there was a bit of a kick back (lazy kicking technique from me) and a big clang and the kickstarter went kind of weird.

No return of the lever. It still kicks the engine over and I was able to start the bike which ran fine.

Im not happy riding it as i am afraid of any debris in the gearbox.

So any clues as what may be the issue? The kicker has always "missed" occaisionally which i guess is the pawl slipping but i could deal with that as i could feel when it was happening.

This seems like the kicker return mechanism.

It is a 2007 500 military with 5 speed gearbox. All electric start trickery is long since removed.

Anyone suffered similer?

[Paul W]

If it still kicks the engine over I’d think it’s just spring in the air.

If so, it’s unlikely to have caused much debris. But of course there’s only one way to find out.....

[ddavidv]

I don't believe any of the kick start springs are in the gearbox proper. If the five speed is similar enough to the Albion you'll find them in the section between the outer cover and the 'inner cover' as I call it. The shifting levers and assorted nonsense are all in the mid-section separate from the actual gears.

[AzCal Retred]

The five speed looks similar in overall layout to the 4 speed - built to allow access to normal wear items. The spring accesses behind the outer cover and is straightforward. Snidals will guide you through it, but it's fairly obvious how it works once the cover comes off.

The kickstart is a "must run" item. On one of my bikes I found the KS stub shaft actually fractured, but still working. I was in there because the pawl had gone on holiday. The order lag time is an issue for you, so this is what I would keep as parts on stock:

1) Springs - 2X; Fatigue or manufacturing defects can kill these
2) Pawls - 2X; high stress part, wear is not kind to these items
3) Pawl Plunger - 2X; cheap & easy to lose
4) Pawl Spring - 2X; cheap & easy to lose
5) Kick Start shaft O-ring - 2X; seals oil in
--these items below live under the inner cover, a bit more work to get to and they MUST work well---
6) Kick Start stub shaft assembly - 1X; another high stress part, comes with pawl, spring & plunger. (about £30)
7) Kick Start Gear assembly - 1X; if this is worn very much at all, even a new pawl will have some slippage. I examined the old one against a new one and saw only minor wear, but it made a big difference in engagement. (about £45)

Shipping for all of these bits is likely the same as getting a KS shaft for free against being ordered separately. Once they are on your shelf you're set for any contingency, a big deal in Brunei.

5-spd
xxxxxxxxx
https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/1864

PART No. 550040; £45.40
1ST GEAR ASSEMBLY, LAYSHAFT (5 SPEED) 500cc +SIXTY5

PART No. 550015; £30.70
KICKSTARTER SHAFT ( KS + ES, 500cc + SIXTY5 ) 5 SPEED
xxxxxxxxxxxx
https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/1863#page-1863-position-12

PART No. 140333; £5.25
PAWL, FOOTSTARTER

PART No. 140332; £1.90
PLUNGER, KICKSTARTER PAWL

PART No. 140331; £0.48
SPRING, FOOTSTARTER PLUNGER (EACH)GER

PART No. 146450; £3.40
SPRING, KICKSTART (140324)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/1862#page-1862-position-11

PART No. 550031; £0.40
O-RING, KICKSTART SHAFT (5 SPEED)

Good Hunting - ACR -

[Willbrunei]

Thanks all
I am going to open up the gearbox this weekend - see what the issue is and order parts as advised by azCal.

Shant be riding it until this is sorted I guess.

[Willbrunei]

So
Took the cover off
Spring is fine

When I try the kicker it turns the engine but is not returning
If I turn it back it makes a ratcheting sound.

I guess the pawl is the next step.

Getting the rocker shaft and gearchange striker mechanism out was an interesting 3 hours.... Pete Snidals manual is helpful but a little lacking in detail on key points for these late model gearboxes.

Anyway that bit is done ... tomorrow the carrier plate and the mysteries beyond....!

[Paul W]

There's a video on Youtube showing a 5 speed gearbox rebuild. I watched it when I was sorting a problem with the one I'd just bought and I wasn't sure how the gearchange mechanism is removed and replaced - it's far from obvious and very little room to do it.

Just as the video gets to the tricky part, there's a break in continuity - and the next frame shows it all back in place - it's a miracle! 

Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRGWURtW50s

[AzCal Retred]

Sounds like there are debris in the ratchet mechanism, so off comes the inner cover. The debris could be broken off bits of pawl. Having the new gear & maybe also the KS shaft assembly in hand saves a lot of rework... - ACR -
5-speed gearbox related You-Tube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiO-9GXfCMk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRGWURtW50s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg_vxen_bBw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQhezTeb11w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZghPPX6KyU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1D9VyQfWNM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8QNcabGAKA  (Paul Henshaw)

Since you have everything apart, maybe this kit will catch your eye...The 1 down, 4 up will be an easier (& cheaper) adaption. With one Bullet it won't be a handicap.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/19021?ref_page=SixtyFive
PART No. 90142 ; £195.00
5 SPEED CONVERSION, LEFT TO RIGHT CHANGE WITH BRAKE, 1 DOWN 4 UP
This kit converts the standard 5 speed left foot gear change to the traditional Bullet right foot change but changes the pattern to 1 down 4 up (we can also supply a version with 1 up 4 down). It includes all the necessary parts including a new machined outer cover, gear change shaft, brake pedal, bungs etc.  Note: The neutral warning light will be lost in this conversion.





xxx

[Adrian II]

Thanks for collating those, I have re-posted your list in the Bullet Electra and AVL Models section as we might need them too!

A.

[AzCal Retred]

Gawd Bless You-Tube; it makes it so much more comprehensible to me to see those mechanical innards spread out on someone else's bench first!

[Willbrunei]

Thanks for following this and giving advice/links.

I have put together a little document to remind me of the process so far - may be useful to someone else?

[Willbrunei]

AzCal - I think I will stick with the left foot change. It is "natural" to me and as I have always had left foot change bikes and at my age, muscle memory is well ingrained and hard to change.

BTW, if it is debris from a broken pawl, how best to flush that out? Am I going to have to remove all of the gearbox innards? Or can I flush with a suitable fluid and drain?

[AzCal Retred]

The stub shaft for the KS should come off with the inner case. The pawl mechanism is shoved inside the KS gear, so any bits will need to be manually cleaned out and the pawl at least replaced. The pawl is the frangible bit, it acts as a "directional wedge" to lock up the KS stub shaft motion to the KS gear, using the wedging of the pawl on the teeth on the inside of said gear. All the bits on the 4-speed look very similar, so I don't think it's any great mysterious task to renew these parts. Enfield seem to value field serviceability.

Depending on the destruction, the pawl, or the plunger, and maybe it's spring can all get chewed up. Most likely it's just the pawl. The KS gear with it's internal teeth needs to be clean and relatively unworn to work reliably. Mine was easy to slip off the end of the shaft after I got the inner cover off. All the debris should be inside the KS gear cavity or lying as small chunks in the bottom of the transmission cavity. Use the exploded diagram and keep track of any shims & spacers. With some care, maybe a rag & stick, and you'll get any stray bits.

I do advise having the KS gear in hand, it's just more delay & extra postage if you find out the hard way that you need it. I was inside mine twice because the gear inner teeth looked "good enough". There didn't appear to be that much wear, but the new one worked and the old one did not. But hey, now I'm a shade-tree expert. 

All of my gaskets came thru disassembly undamaged. I coated them with grease & reused them, filled up the box with gear oil and no leaks. Still, probably good to have on hand in case one of yours has vulcanized itself to both case halves and blows up. I don't know if it's thickness makes a difference to the mechanism on the 5-speed, so getting a couple is more cheap insurance against self-inflicted aggravation.

[Willbrunei]

  all good advice, well taken!

[cyrusb]

all good advice, well taken!

I'm puzzled as to how you had a kick back? Are you using the decompressor correctly?

[Willbrunei]

Lazy kicking.
Totally my fault.
It happens now and then if I don’t kick through with the required long kick, if that makes sense.

[Willbrunei]

Took carrier plate off, no drama doing that.

Kickstart shaft is buggered though.

See pic.

Btw

With the carrier plate off, is it normal to have play in the main shaft.

[Willbrunei]

Layshaft not mainshaft

[AzCal Retred]

Looks like the one I replaced. The new assembly comes "fully loaded" with pawls & springs. Take a peek at the mating KS gear in strong light also. Now YOU're an expert!!

[nonfiction]

I have been having intermittent slippage with kickstarting, since I bought the bike. I ordered a pawl and return spring, but this makes me wonder whether I’m in the early stages of having a busted shaft too. Good to have the parts order here for myself—such a resource, this site.

[Willbrunei]

Thanks Azcal - you’ve been very supportive

Any opinion on the wobbly layshaft? Also a few scuffs on the kickstart shaft sleeve in the carrier plate. Do I need to worry about the or clean them up? Pic attached

The gear looks ok to me - pics attached

Expert -me? I don’t think so but I am definitely learning a lot of mechanic stuff from this bike and really enjoying it

And even taking shipping into account, parts are so cheap, so it is a relatively inexpensive hobby.

@nonfiction - good luck with your issue. Happy to share my recent experience if it is any help.

Cheers all - will follow up when I have the parts

Will

[AzCal Retred]

You mentioned wobbly layshaft. The layshaft is supported (incredibly) by the kickstart stub shaft. The four speed runs an internal bushing, the five speed uses a needle bearing assembly. The 4-speed shaft assembly comes with a steel bushing already installed, I'm not seeing that the 5-speed assembly comes with a new needle bearing. Might be a good idea to renew this item so you know it's 100%.

The 1st Gear cog internal bush in your pictures seems to not be perfectly smooth (concentric?) all way around, maybe that's a trick of the light? In any event it needs to be reasonably snug on the shaft, not wobbly. There are two shims bracketing this gear - were both actually there? If the bushing is worn in spots, that may indicate a bad needle bearing in the KS stub shaft not providing proper supporting. The 1st gear bush appears integral with the gear, so maybe another good argument to get a new gear. If the shims are missing or worn, that lessens axial support to the gear, possibly allowing "cocking" on the shaft and providing a mechanism for explaining the rubbing on the carrier plate and maybe also the internal bush of the gear.

How's the end of the layshaft look? Clean & smooth? It is the bearing surface for the needle bearing. Needle bearings can also have cage failures, where the needles can stack off on one side of the housing, screwing up alignment. Something else to look at.

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/2422#page-2422-position-17
PART No. 550032 ; £9.63
NEEDLE BEARING ( KS + ES, 500cc + SIXTY5 + EFI) 5 SPEED

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/2421#page-2421-position-13
PART No. 550030 ; £0.75
WASHER, THRUST, 500cc + SIXTY5 + EFI (EACH)

[Willbrunei]

Parts came saturday. Happy it was so quick
But...

Despite being assured by the supplier that the ks shaft came with pawl and plunger fitted, it didn't.
 

So, now waiting for Mr H to get back to me with a solution.

[Willbrunei]

And I must report that as soon as mr H opened on Monday he replied to say the missing bits will be sent ASAP for no charge.

Great to have such good support for these old machines

[Willbrunei]

Hi - I hope that there are some 5 speed grearbox experts out there....

So started on the kicker shaft replacement bt due to general hamfisted-ness I managed to dislodge the lay shaft and as a result had to take all the gear clusters out by releasing the camplate fixing and pulling the primary and taking out the clutch stack to release the mainshaft.

After 2 days of shennanigans, I got it all together and back in the box. All bolted up but....

Now the damn thing wont change gear.

I rock and roll it but no dice. The info says the camplate should be in 3rd gear position on reassembly and I believe I did that but when I use the shifter pedal I can just hear the detent arm clicking in and out of the slot but it seems that the camplate is not moving freely.

The kicker obs moves the back wheel round but it does that EVEN with the clutch pulled.

I walked away with it all bolted up as I was pretty worn out and needed some thinking time.

Can anyone see what I may be missing. My worry is that I have made a mistake on reassembly (but I dont think so.

[AzCal Retred]

WillBrunei - did you see these?

Royal Enfield Pre UCE 5 Speed Gear Box Assembly (English) < Gear assembly about 30 minutes in >
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiO-9GXfCMk

Royal Enfield 5 speed model complete gearbox setting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRGWURtW50s

Royal Enfield 5 speed selector issues fixed by Performance Classics. < Paul Henshaw - the Bullet Whisperer himself!!     >
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1fqiZbCI24

Royal Enfield 5 speed gearbox selector issues discussed.  < Paul Henshaw - more by the Bullet Whisperer himself!!     >
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8QNcabGAKA

Royal Enfield 5speed gear box video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg_vxen_bBw

[Willbrunei]

Thanks Azcal - I hadnt seen the Henshaw videos - they were great. It was good to actually see how the selctor cam works. I will go back and look at the stop pin as that could be a likely candidate for a strightforward fix.

The other 2 videos are great too - I used those for rebuilding the gear clusters and so on - that is why I am fairly confident that I have all that in order.

As an aside, I thought my working conditions were a bit untidy until I saw the gentleman from India - Salman Khan - who appears to be working in a space that has a mud floor and the bike he is working on looks like it has recently been excavated from an archaeological dig!!

It just goes to show how rugged and simple these bikes are ( a bit like me). 

I will have another look at this over the weekend. wish me luck!

[Adrian II]

Couldn't resist!

A.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0wNl66tT3Q

[AzCal Retred]

I am always amazed at what out Indian brothers achieve working in minimal conditions. The Iron Barrel Bullet - what an application of appropriate technology, big pieces moving slowly, a lot more tolerance for make-do & get-by. Just like in England in the late Thirties, where the Depression came and barely left. Those Reddich folks surely gave people what they needed.

[Willbrunei]

Sooo....
5th time lucky. The 5th rebuild went well. Previously I had been mounting the selector forks in the wrong order. Sorted that and developed a little wedge with an old file handle to keep the shifter cam in place and bobs yer uncle.

Clutch on all connected up fresh lube in the box and the primary and it started first kick!!

I was amazed. Quick ride around the block and all gears work and neutral is ok to find.

I am so happy. I think this is approx 24 hours of work but I can now strip and rebuild a bullet clutch and gearbox-with my eyes shut (not quite but you get the drift)

One fly in the ointment is the kicker spring seems a bit flabby and lacks punch in returning the kicker. I’ll check that out tomorrow.

[AzCal Retred]

CONGRATULATIONS! You are an Official SME ( Subject Matter Expert)!    Fifth time, eh? I think"MacArthur (I will return!)" was sending you a message - 5 speed, 5 tries...   

The new K.S. shaft may need to "bed in" to the new (to it) location, maybe just give it a few rides to find it's place and make elbow room. I'd be hesitant to remove metal. Maybe it's a tight O-ring, I seem to remember mine being a bit lazy for a bit until the new sealing 0-ring ring wore in.

Again - Congratulations! Perseverance furthers, eh? - ACR -

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/I_Ching/Interpretation#:~:text=If%20you%20are%20sincere%2C,to%20cross%20the%20great%20water.
䷀ (乾 qián)   乾

[Willbrunei]

Thanks for the support Azcal. It’s nice to have people on this forum who understand Enfield stuff.

You were spot on with the ks shaft. Once the new oil had got into the ks shaft bearing, it all freed up and works a treat.

Hopefully enough gearbox work for now....
🤞

[AzCal Retred]

Looks like you're the expert now! If I get a 5-speed I'll be picking your brain. Write down what you did before it fades from short term memory; Paper/Text Doc is your friend, file it away for the future. Soon enough you'll join the "what did I know and when did I know it...?" crowd like the rest of us geezers...

Well done, Sir! - ACR -

[Willbrunei]

 

Proof of the pudding...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KWJuErxBxhWoHr997

[bt4267]

Willbrunei, can you please tell me what mistake you made. I am struggling with the gear box assembly. I am in the US and there are no bullet repair places nearby. I have a 2006 Electra S 5 speed. Also, is there a way to check/ confirm that the assembly is correct before putting everything back together and adding oil.

[AzCal Retred]

Will's since moved on, but there are many 5-speed mavens here. Read the story of Will's effort & study the parts diagram. Do you have the downloadable Hitchcock's manual or the Snidal manual? YouTube is a great resource also.

"What one man can do, another can do!"

[richard211]

Here is a detailed video of the 5 speed gearbox assembly.

https://youtu.be/XiO-9GXfCMk

[bt4267]

Azcal, hope Will is okay. I do have the FSM from Hitchcock. I do not have Snidal -I do see links to buy Snidal in downloadable format for $20. Are those links legit, do you know.
Richard, I have watched this video. I did put the gearbox back but hiw do I say if I did the work correctly before putting everything back together and starting the motorcycle.

[AzCal Retred]

Will got a new job and moved from Brunei. The bike was too much to take with him internationally, shipping isn't cheap and vehicle laws change.

Why did it get disassembled originally? Did you go in to just replace the KS pawl and some gear guts fell out? I think that's what happened to Will.

There are no guarantees here. The gearbox-in-the-frame reassembly takes some finagling, but many others have done it. The inner cover has bearings in it, so it holds shafts in correct alignment and provides correct end spacing. With the inner cover in place and snugged up you should be able to roll the rear wheel and operate the gear selector. If it's rolling freely, you can hit neutral & have all 5 speeds, you are likely there. Then you final reassemble and CAUTIOUSLY test ride.

If it was stock & worked before, and you just replaced part-for-part, it should work if you haven't flipped something over or transposed a position. Test shaft movement by rotating them as you reassemble. Axial play also can't be excessive, make sure any & all shims are in place. The gearset can't be allowed to "bind up" and go solid when you tighten down the inner cover, castings get cracked that way. Sometimes a soft-faced plastic mallet is needed to tap as you go to help the internal bits settle back in.

Just like a doctor, "do no harm". Study the exploded views carefully & test as you go. It's just a monkey puzzle, right?    ...and don't forget any gaskets!

[richard211]

Azcal, hope Will is okay. I do have the FSM from Hitchcock. I do not have Snidal -I do see links to buy Snidal in downloadable format for $20. Are those links legit, do you know.
Richard, I have watched this video. I did put the gearbox back but hiw do I say if I did the work correctly before putting everything back together and starting the motorcycle.

If you wanted to check if all of the gears were working correctly, before you do a final assembly and start up the engine, put all of the gearbox components back together including the right hand side cover and the kick lever.
 I would suggest you install the chain that connects the rear wheel sprocket to the gearbox output shaft. The next step would place the clutch centre hub onto the gearbox input shaft. Take the gear lever and temporarily install it on the gear lever shaft.
 From the left side of the motorcycle, put gearbox into first gear position and spin the clutch hub a few time anti clockwise with one hand and use the other to put a little bit of pressure on the rear tyre, it helps if the motorcycle is on its centre stand. We are trying to make sure the gear is being positively engaged. Next put move the gear lever so the gearbox is in neutral, again add some pressure to the rear wheel so it does not spin, but the clutch hub has to spin freely. Every time a gear is selected, e.g first, second, third, forth or fifth, if the clutch hub is rotated the rear wheel will rotate. First gear will take around 3 rotations of the clutch hub for the rear wheel to rotate once and in fifth gear one rotation of the clutch hub will be equal to one rotation of the rear wheel. Once you are satisfied there is no issues, then check the kick start engagement, I usually sit on top of the motorcycle and kick the kick lever slowly and lightly grab the clutch centre, as long as the kick lever is moving downwards, the clutch hub has to spin with no slippage.

[bt4267]

Azcal and Richard thanks for your help. Yes Acal, it was a kicker pawl repair where some gears fell off the layshaft. Now I am struggling to get the gears back in place. I tried what both you and Richard told me. I am hearing 1gearing changing but I am not able to cycle all gears like we normally would when we ride. Looks like the stop pin may be restricting the movement of the rocker shaft assembly. I have the 11.3mm pin. My situation is very similar to that of Will, wonder if I too messed up the order of the shifter fork. The first two forks are so similar but one is longer than the other. I put the longer one first and then the shorter one. Do you guys know if that is the right order?
I was rewatching the video recommended by Richard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiO-9GXfCMk
Looks like the shorter one has to go on first. If any of you have time please glance at the video at the 26minutes and 27 secs spot (ie 27 secs past the 26th minute) and give me your opinion on which fork looks shorter, the one that comes first after the circlip on the selector fork shaft or the one that comes second.

[AzCal Retred]

Where are you located?

I would use Hitchcock's Parts resource to ID individual parts from the exploded view. The individual pictures provide a clearer view than the parts sketch.

R211 provided a video, YouTube has many Indian contributors. these have been very helpful to me in the past.

Snidal & Hitchcock's manuals show the "power flow" thru the gearbox. Take the time to understand how this system works. The reality is that largely all the commercial shop mechanics that can work on these machines have by now all quit, died or retired. YOU are the default mechanic. The good news is that these machines are relatively user friendly, the bad news is that they like/require a lot more "friendly" than your average Honda. Welcome back to 1935. With the wide ratio 5-speed you have the best transmission you'll get. They'd have thought they'd died & gone to heaven if they had this jewel back in the day.

Again, it's just a mechanical puzzle. It'll succumb to methodical fitment. << https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/1864  >>

Worst case just get a new intact transmission from e-bay. So it's worth about $400 to figure it out, right?    And unless you fix it, it's just a parts bike to the next guy, maybe $1,000 OBO situation. You can do this.

Fit For Royal Enfield With Kick and Gear Lever Used 5 Speed Gear Box
Price:US $357.59
Free Expedited Shipping from India

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374444657447?hash=item572ea40b27:g:0OAAAOSwXgJjt8ny&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8BhIxwRXgLVRsc9ag%2FdhIJHXL2uah0D0IOAFzwvMiVjDwLdK8q6IjGH9qNNIHpIY8eG%2Byig0qbgKGMVG93JptTeNMEcONdOE3DccrZtPO2DZWpiYMLu76PRMOGFQ1vDLdwCbiTLvfHIE1K5cYDpk4nXm%2Bt%2BFELkshKusr3XqyQnJZ9EZrXyPHl1Qdhp92u007IjRrkGHugyrUtRj9EvsS1Dqt%2BBO5BY49XVxsOLiKHPML55WitYeCUyaPAPGvrOdI6G1lEZdWksyG6ehoogxVVCuBtppgpoHiYx3i41nyJTNbbTXMvHmPpQcA%2FS7ZAvNcQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7LZm8_6YQ

[bt4267]

Oh thanks, Axcal, I never thought of that. Thanks for the eBay link. I sure will keep that in mind. I also modified my previous post. If you have time can you pls look at the 26:27th minute of that video.

[AzCal Retred]

That was a great assembly video! The 5 speed is certainly busier than the 4 speed. Everything is easier to assemble on the bench top too. All you can do is keep plugging away. Looks like the gearbox was assembled in neutral position? Probably better to index it that way to start with.

Verify ALL your parts, watch the video 2-4 times to get the pattern. Keep after it!

[richard211]

Azcal and Richard thanks for your help. Yes Acal, it was a kicker pawl repair where some gears fell off the layshaft. Now I am struggling to get the gears back in place. I tried what both you and Richard told me. I am hearing 1gearing changing but I am not able to cycle all gears like we normally would when we ride. Looks like the stop pin may be restricting the movement of the rocker shaft assembly. I have the 11.3mm pin. My situation is very similar to that of Will, wonder if I too messed up the order of the shifter fork. The first two forks are so similar but one is longer than the other. I put the longer one first and then the shorter one. Do you guys know if that is the right order?
I was rewatching the video recommended by Richard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiO-9GXfCMk
Looks like the shorter one has to go on first. If any of you have time please glance at the video at the 26minutes and 27 secs spot (ie 27 secs past the 26th minute) and give me your opinion on which fork looks shorter, the one that comes first after the circlip on the selector fork shaft or the one that comes second.

 I have attached a page out of the parts catalogue to make it easier to understand the way the selector forks fit. Part number 12 and 11 should interlock with each other. The selector fork with the flat sides is the one that is installed on the left side(closest to the clutch). When you are reinstalling the selector forks. Look at the parts diagram and compare the location of pins on the selector fork as well.