Author Topic: fork oil weight?  (Read 13235 times)

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twocoolgliders

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Reply #30 on: September 17, 2020, 11:42:51 am



Uhhhh .....  that gizmos is not used to REMOVE ALL the fork oil...and it can't!

That gizmo is used to get the correct fork OIL LEVEL.....you slightly OVERFILL the fork...then you set the probe to the correct air gap depth, and SUCK....presto..the perfect oil level.


The only way to get the oil out is to remove the fork leg, dump...pump, dump... pump etc...then invert and let drain for a spell....and even then there will be a slight amount of oil left in there....

This is why you use that gizmo....you can't refill accurately by VOLUME since you don't know how much residual oil is in there...but with the gizmo you refill by height = perfect oil level.

If you wanted to get out ALL of the oil, it would require disassembly of every single part and piece of the fork mechanism...and cleaning of that...

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Blazingatom

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Reply #31 on: September 17, 2020, 11:46:02 am
Cookies right,

Stuart fillingham on YouTube when he fits his yss front shocks gives a very good video
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goody59

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Reply #32 on: September 17, 2020, 10:04:36 pm
I never said I could remove all the oil. Most will do me and at 60ml of oil at a time it will require a few goes. Thanks, I have removed my forks before to fit gaiters. That is not a problem for me.
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Starpeve

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Reply #33 on: September 26, 2020, 11:50:13 am
I’m going to try the suck method, but what I’ll do is measure the fluid removed and go from there. I’m keen on playing with oil volumes.
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Reply #34 on: December 15, 2020, 06:19:39 am
Anyone know what the stock RE fork rat piss equates in the standard viscosity cSt units
2W-25 is meaningless

34cSt @40C would seem reasonable for a crude dampner style fork, but wondering what the experience is

Also air gap given a 75 kg rider?

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Starpeve

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Reply #35 on: December 15, 2020, 07:05:28 am
Spoke to my mechanic today and he said he’d do the change for a couple of hundred bucks. And he says to drain it through the fork bottom, no need to remove the legs. But he’s got all the gear to do it, locking the damper rod or whatever it is. Now the question is one of oil weight. Couchy,what do reckon for a 75 kg rider, stock springs and a bit of a play with preload amounts?
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Hoiho

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Reply #36 on: December 15, 2020, 09:41:35 am
Spoke to my mechanic today and he said he’d do the change for a couple of hundred bucks. And he says to drain it through the fork bottom, no need to remove the legs. But he’s got all the gear to do it, locking the damper rod or whatever it is.

So remove the damper rods and let the fork oil out the bolt holes?
Seems sensible if it’s just an open bath design.


Jako

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Reply #37 on: December 15, 2020, 10:00:12 am
Spoke to my mechanic today and he said he’d do the change for a couple of hundred bucks. And he says to drain it through the fork bottom, no need to remove the legs.

 I honesty think it's easier ,quicker and better to just remove the fork legs and drain the oil the conventional way. No need to disturb the dampening rods and retaining bolts. With the forks removed you can also hold them  plumb  and accurately set the oil level.  Strange that your mechanic is going to go about it that way.
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Hog Head

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Reply #38 on: December 15, 2020, 11:01:29 am
Spoke to my mechanic today and he said he’d do the change for a couple of hundred bucks. And he says to drain it through the fork bottom, no need to remove the legs. But he’s got all the gear to do it, locking the damper rod or whatever it is. Now the question is one of oil weight. Couchy,what do reckon for a 75 kg rider, stock springs and a bit of a play with preload amounts?

That is my question + the air gap question
I suspect around 34 cSt but would like to hear from someone that has done it
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gizzo

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Reply #39 on: December 15, 2020, 11:41:54 am
I honesty think it's easier ,quicker and better to just remove the fork legs and drain the oil the conventional way. No need to disturb the dampening rods and retaining bolts. With the forks removed you can also hold them  plumb  and accurately set the oil level.  Strange that your mechanic is going to go about it that way.
He is a strange mechanic.
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dcolak

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Reply #40 on: December 15, 2020, 02:48:56 pm
I used vacuum pump to suck out the oil, much easier, no disassembly necessary.

Replaced original oil with 15w.
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5SpeedRacer

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Reply #41 on: December 15, 2020, 07:28:53 pm
I used vacuum pump to suck out the oil, much easier, no disassembly necessary.

Replaced original oil with 15w.

How are you finding the 15w fork oil and did you stick to 140mm air gap? I'm probably 120kg in riding gear so thought 15w might be the way to go and I have 1L of it in the garage!


Hoiho

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Reply #42 on: December 15, 2020, 07:39:12 pm
I honesty think it's easier ,quicker and better to just remove the fork legs and drain the oil the conventional way. No need to disturb the dampening rods and retaining bolts. With the forks removed you can also hold them  plumb  and accurately set the oil level.  Strange that your mechanic is going to go about it that way.

If you have to take out the damper rods for modifying the ports... you're already there aren't you?


NVDucati

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Reply #43 on: December 15, 2020, 08:07:43 pm
How are you finding the 15w fork oil and did you stick to 140mm air gap? I'm probably 120kg in riding gear so thought 15w might be the way to go and I have 1L of it in the garage!
Because fork oil specification numbers are so chaotic between brands AND because you will be "tuning" your suspension over time via the fork oil (weight and air gap)...
I would strongly suggest choosing a brand which you can reliably get in various weights in your geographical location and stick with that one brand. That will allow you to compare apples, so to speak. 15 is a safe starting point.
If you know what you are after and intend to make changes in short order to get there ... keep a notebook. Using the air gap matters but tracking the volume used to achieve said air gap is important, too. That will allow you to remove a X amount portion of the 15 and replace it with X amount of 7.5 etc. It is like making wine if you want it to be. Have a fixed route for testing. Obviously, that is over the top for most souls but getting it right - for you - can be very satisfying.
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Breezin

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Reply #44 on: December 15, 2020, 08:49:46 pm
I used vacuum pump to suck out the oil, much easier, no disassembly necessary.

Replaced original oil with 15w.

15w in what brand - since they're all different?