Author Topic: First service - dealer cost?  (Read 14076 times)

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Richard230

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Reply #60 on: May 10, 2020, 10:07:00 pm
What works well to clean wheels is a product like Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish. (There are similar products, with a similar name, sold in most motorcycle shops.) I have been using that stuff for many years and it does a great job cleaning oil and grease off of wheels and leaving behind a protective film.  And if you really want to cut through gorp, try painter's wipes or Gojo Scrubbing Wipes. Those products will really clean things up, although they will also take off any wax or polish, too.
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twocoolgliders

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Reply #61 on: May 11, 2020, 12:27:44 am
The satisfaction of doing your own work!  And the convenience...and it's done correctly! and you saved money!..

You probably could have found cheaper oil..but Bel-Ray is a good "name brand"....

You may wish to reconsider the valve check.....the idea is that in the first couple hundred miles is when the valves "set it"...so they can be out of spec.   The more miles...then they sort of stabilize...so you probably don't have to check them as often as the book recommends...

The problem with air cooled engines is that too tight exhaust valves can cause big trouble.

The RE650 is probably the easiest valves to check....(although there are 8 of 'em)
The hardest thing is to keep the gasket lined up for reassembly.  You can check the valves...maybe they are all in spec...then you just close it up....but to adjust...it is simple...

Yeah lots of work to get the tank off etc...

I did mine at 400 miles...just for piece of mind...had to adjust a couple of them...

As for draining the oil completely....sure let it drain for an hour, but remember no matter how long it drains...there is still going to be a few ounces that never come out....so you have to live with that bit of old oil mixing with your nice, new, clean oil!

I do my chain every 500 miles....clean with kerosene, then Honda lube...I do my wheels and spokes at the same time....the more often you clean...the easier it is to clean.


Cookie







I just did my first service exactly at 300 miles. I ordered OEM Oil Filters ($25) from the dealer, and ordered Bel-Ray 10w-50 1 gallon (4 liters) engine oil from amazon for $65. Oil change is extremely easy task, just takes an hour or so to let the old oil to drain completely. I completed my first service under $100 with a little bit of time looking at things to make sure they are in a good condition.

I haven't done the valve/tappet adjustment as I don't see the need for it yet. The main reason I did my own oil change is because it takes an hour+ to get to the dealership and cost me $250+ USD. The weather is not perfect here yet for the long rides, and just wanted to do it at the comfort of home .

I'm learning a ton from this community, lots of tips and pointers, and full of opinions :) Use your judgement and reach out to this community if you are looking for extra information.

It was raining all day yesterday, and I took that as an opportunity to clean the vehicle thoroughly using mild soap water spray and a micro fiber cloth (a bunch actually). It doesn't look that dirty from the outset, but once you start cleaning, you will realize how dirty the bike is. Hard part was cleaning the wheel and spokes. They are the most dirtiest of all - especially the rear ones as I believe it is because they are close to the oily chain.

Also make sure the chain is well-oiled. Every 300 miles/500 km, it is better to check the lubrication on the chain.

Good luck!


20MarkIII

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Reply #62 on: May 11, 2020, 03:27:13 am
Well I feel a little sheepish saying this since stating that I would be taking my INT in for it's first service BUT Indy is still on lockdown until 5/15 and my bike hit 300 miles end of April. So, did it myself. I agree with Cookie, EmKay, you should adjust your valve lash soon. I did talk with my dealer and he specifically mentioned that it needs done at 300 miles. All mine were tight. Here's a couple of tips: the tank removal is no problem. The fuel line has a neat quick connect fitting to the plastic intake manifold. Simply squeeze both rectangular "buttons" twist slightly and it should pull right off. No need to drain the tank but with a low fuel level the tank is lighter so more manageable. Two electrical connectors to disconnect and two tank vents that simply pull off. The plate that holds the ABS unit can have the two rear screws removed and the front screw partially loosened so you can shim it up from the rear with some wood scraps. I did find it helpful to disconnect the horns to make the valve cover removal easier. Engine needs to be dead cold. Like not run for 10-12 hours. Fillingham has a youtube vid on the adjustment as a visual. I didn't have a 14mm allen wrench so removed the round cover on the left engine side plate with a 3/8" SAE bolt with a couple of nuts tightened on. Simply insert the bolt head into the cover. Nice that the screw part of the adjusters have flat screwdriver slots! Also you might check your chain slack. New chains do stretch. Mine was 40 mm. I adjusted to 1"(approx. 25mm). Also if you don't have a 24mm socket or wrench for the rear axle nut, a 15/16" wrench works perfectly. I used Maxima ProPlus 10w50 full syn oil and a Mahle filter Good luck!
« Last Edit: May 11, 2020, 03:32:44 am by 20MarkIII »


NVDucati

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Reply #63 on: May 11, 2020, 05:47:09 am
I did my own first service and tappet adjustment. The actual adjustment was easy, as has been noted. I have done that type of adjustment on lots of bikes with the screw / lock nut system. [for any first timers, it is mater of equalizing the force of the nut with the resistance of the screwdriver. Sort of like wringing water out of a cloth with two hands. A couple of goes maybe and just leave the feeler gauge in while you are doing it. Test that the drag still feels the same as you withdraw it for the final time.]

As for the gasket: It is worth the effort to remove the horns. Then I practiced getting the cover on a couple of times without the gasket. I found that sliding the cover in from right to left (standing on the left) along the front of the cylinder head (were the horns used to be) was the easiest. Then up and over the rocker arms from front to back.

I didn't use any adhesive. I laid the rocker cover on the bench, cavity up, and coated the gasket with oil from my finger tip. Then I pressed it into the grove all the way around to squish the air out and form a cohesion, like denture cream would or a decal would bond. I held the half round bit with my thumb as I moved the cover in place. I did lose one little bit of the gasket right at the end but with the cover laying on the head I used one of the slightly thicker feeler gauge pedals to reinsert it into the grove. Done. For what its worth, I found 3 of the 8 tight and 1 loose.

I didn't use adhesive not so much about leaking but because I couldn't know if it would come off peacefully on the next inspection.  HTH
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JfroRoo

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Reply #64 on: May 11, 2020, 09:01:44 am
I find WD40 on a soft rag really good at cleaning oily wheel rims and spokes. Never had a reason to try anything else TBH. I am wary of using any adhesives to hold gaskets on simply because you are likely to get some 'squish' inside the rocker cover (where you can't see it obviously) and should any of it come free over time it could well clog up any of the little tiny oil ways or drain holes. For example Silicone sealant eventually comes off the bath/shower base doesn't it....


20MarkIII

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Reply #65 on: May 11, 2020, 03:03:26 pm
Thanks for the tip on WD40 to clean rear wheel/spokes. Would think that would give a bit of corrosion protection as well. I do know that Muc-Off diluted to recommended solution is worthless on chain lube sling.


twocoolgliders

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Reply #66 on: May 12, 2020, 01:53:59 am
I use kerosene...way cheaper, and chemically nearly the same..

Cookie


Thanks for the tip on WD40 to clean rear wheel/spokes. Would think that would give a bit of corrosion protection as well. I do know that Muc-Off diluted to recommended solution is worthless on chain lube sling.


gizzo

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Reply #67 on: May 12, 2020, 02:31:16 am
Cool!


I flew free flight gliders way back in the 1970's...later got into r/c gliders...also glow power models....Built lots of RC models....designed a few....did articles for magazines...product reviews, and my own plans...etc.
Got out of RC in favor of "full size gliders"  in 1982... got about 6000 hours in sailplanes....arpound 600 hours in fixed wing....built two "full size" experimental planes...owned many gliders and a couple of 1946 Aeronca Champs....

Back to RC the last couple of years....but not as good a pilot as I used to be (or "thought" I was.lol)  now I fly electrics....5' cub...Kunai motor glider "warm" liner....some foam crap planes.....etc...

Cookie

Way, way off topic but might interest cookie : I'm about to start laying up a new glider for myself. This is one half of the wing mould. It's an OD 30" span tailless dynamic soaring bomb. Been clocked at around 150mph which isn't too bad for such a small glider.

Oh yeah, I do all my own servicing too. The dealer in Adelaide I bought my bike from is an absolute ballsack and I wouldn't let him touch my bike. IDK how the guys are on the new South rd dealership though. Anyway, 45,000km and all is well.
simon from south Australia
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Haggisman

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Reply #68 on: May 12, 2020, 08:58:29 am
Gizzo which side of Adelaide do you live on. I am in the southern suburbs
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gizzo

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Reply #69 on: May 12, 2020, 10:19:43 am
Western suburbs,  findon. But we come down your way quite often, too. On the way to Victor or strath.
simon from south Australia
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twocoolgliders

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Reply #70 on: May 12, 2020, 11:13:54 am
Dynamic soaring is really cool!

We do it in full size too...but not at all how they do it with models...

Although I do know one guy who flew a sine wave pattern in the lee of a ridge for a short distance...with a very specially designed and built glider...


Coookie



Way, way off topic but might interest cookie : I'm about to start laying up a new glider for myself. This is one half of the wing mould. It's an OD 30" span tailless dynamic soaring bomb. Been clocked at around 150mph which isn't too bad for such a small glider.

Oh yeah, I do all my own servicing too. The dealer in Adelaide I bought my bike from is an absolute ballsack and I wouldn't let him touch my bike. IDK how the guys are on the new South rd dealership though. Anyway, 45,000km and all is well.


gizzo

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Reply #71 on: May 12, 2020, 11:56:09 am
I think you get a bit of a DS push when you're dolphin flying, right? And the guys who've exploited horizontal wind gradient.

I don't think too many could DS full size behind a ridge and live to tell the tale!

But, it's super fun. The sites we fly at, the frontside is epic and the DS really nice on a good day. So you can ridge soar and do Aero,  drop down the back for a few laps to build speed and punch out to speck height.  Then do it again, or something different.

I found my DS site when I was flying my paraglider along the coast one day. Saw it, thought it looked good, flew back to launch packed up and booted over to throw a toy plane (I always take a toy plane, in case it's blown out there's still something to do).

Too much fun.
simon from south Australia
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Pantah
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DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


olhogrider

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Reply #72 on: May 13, 2020, 12:02:24 am
I am wary of using any adhesives to hold gaskets on simply because you are likely to get some 'squish' inside the rocker cover (where you can't see it obviously) and should any of it come free over time it could well clog up any of the little tiny oil ways or drain holes. For example Silicone sealant eventually comes off the bath/shower base doesn't it....

I didn't use silicone. I used 3M spray. It's a contact cement. You let it dry before mating the surfaces. Just enough to hold it in place. Other have used grease, which works but then dribbles grease on the outside of the engine.


twocoolgliders

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Reply #73 on: May 13, 2020, 01:33:08 am
Yes....you can extract bits of energy from any gradient...(if you go in the correct direction, and pull some "g's").


I don't think it is so practical, but some guys swear it makes a big difference in the long run.

As I said, one of our guys did some DS on the backside of a ridge...but only sustained for a mile or so....

He had a very unusual prototype glider.....The glider was built with DS in mind...100% carbon fiber...high "g'  rating...and top speed well over 200 mph....

It has "automatic", computer controlled, electric flaps...sensors for g load and airspeed, sets the flaps perfectly like 20 times a second...a human could not keep up...too much work load...

But as you say...the human being is the weak point!

Slopes are hard to find around here...everything is covered with forest....I've done some slope soaring models over a ski area....great flying..nowhere to land...so usually a crash into a tiny parking lot!

For "real" gliders...we have a fantastic local ridge...which leads to the Appalachian mountains  (not really mountains just ridges)  I've done a 500K but many have done 1000k and 1200k flights!


Cookie




I think you get a bit of a DS push when you're dolphin flying, right? And the guys who've exploited horizontal wind gradient.

I don't think too many could DS full size behind a ridge and live to tell the tale!

But, it's super fun. The sites we fly at, the frontside is epic and the DS really nice on a good day. So you can ridge soar and do Aero,  drop down the back for a few laps to build speed and punch out to speck height.  Then do it again, or something different.

I found my DS site when I was flying my paraglider along the coast one day. Saw it, thought it looked good, flew back to launch packed up and booted over to throw a toy plane (I always take a toy plane, in case it's blown out there's still something to do).

Too much fun.