[Flyblown]

Have a 2021 Classic 500 and am encountering problems downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. It seems to hit a false neutral more often than not and then when nudging the gear lever, misses 2nd altogether and straight into first. It has also missed 2nd altogether and downshifted straight into first with a loss of traction on the rear tire. Tried to mix up the way I shift from very positive downshift on the lever to slower light shift but it doesnt seem to make a difference. The bike has around 2000ks on the clock. Clutch has about 3mm of slack on the lever. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be the issue. Thanks Chris

[oldphart]

Have a 2021 Classic 500 and am encountering problems downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. It seems to hit a false neutral more often than not and then when nudging the gear lever, misses 2nd altogether and straight into first. It has also missed 2nd altogether and downshifted straight into first with a loss of traction on the rear tire. Tried to mix up the way I shift from very positive downshift on the lever to slower light shift but it doesnt seem to make a difference. The bike has around 2000ks on the clock. Clutch has about 3mm of slack on the lever. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be the issue. Thanks Chris

Mine's the same model but I don't have a problem with 3rd to 2nd.

However, I've often tapped it into first when stopping, then found I'm in neutral when I go to move off - most embarrassing in traffic. Now I tap the lever again when stopped - I don't feel anything but at least the bike is always in first.

With yours, I'd discuss it with your dealer. Mine? I've heard too many other riders complain about the same issue to be too worried.

[Gian4]

Is your drive chain properly lubed and adjusted?  You already checked your clutch play.  That's where I would start.  Keep us posted.
Gian4

[GarethLDE]

I haven't done a thorough test, but I am sure that I managed to somehow find a false neutral between most gears when driving my bike home earlier in the week by gently moving the gear leaver part way.

I assumed it is an Enfield feature rather than a fault :-)

[Richard230]

Sometimes problems shifting into gear can be the result of not having the angle of the shift lever at the correct position in regard to the rider's posture and typical ankle movement. Moving the lever up or down slightly can help when shifting between gears more positively.

[Silverback]

When I downshift from 5th it misses 4th or somehow sits in between.  Then another tap and it goes into 3rd.

[rev_enfield]

I've always had exactly the same issue on my 2017 C5. It's a feature, not a bug. 

[Gian4]

Start with the basics.  Check your clutch adjustment and your foot shifter position.  At least that's where I would start. 
Gian4

[axman88]

I found the attached image on a thread in another forum regarding RE UCE engine transmissions.
If this diagram is correct, I wonder why RE chose to have so much movement of the sliding gears.  Downshifting from 5th to 4th involves pulling the 2nd/5th sliding gear out of engagement on the output shaft, then pushing the 3rd/4th slider into engagement on the input shaft.

I guess it's inevitable to require 3 sliding gears for 5 speeds with the input / output shaft gearbox, and the designers just have to choose which ratio transitions involve moving which gears.

The animation in this video uses an alternate arrangement, but might be helpful for those who are having a hard time understanding how the transmission works.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8xnIFf4id4
This arrangement seems more straightforward to me, with 1rst getting its own slider, 2nd / 3rd sharing a slider, and 4th / 5th sharing a slider.

I wonder if any of our members has insight into why RE chose the the design they did?  What advantage does it have?  Or does the arrangement facilitate the flat disc shifter cam, rather than a drum type?

The shifter mechanism can be seen here:  https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=20090.msg221090#msg221090

[Silverback]

Thanks for the input guys. I don't feel so concerned. I did adjust lever to allow my big boot to rest under shifter without the drastic angle it was before. Maybe I just need to play around with positioning and accept the 5th to 4th issue.   It is what it is. All bikes have  their own character

[oldphart]

Thanks for the input guys. I don't feel so concerned. I did adjust lever to allow my big boot to rest under shifter without the drastic angle it was before. Maybe I just need to play around with positioning and accept the 5th to 4th issue.   It is what it is. All bikes have  their own character

It's just a matter of getting used to things. 'Fine adjustment' is a fallacy with these bikes because the lever is on a very coarse spline and moving one tooth makes a big difference - just a throwback to 'the old days' I guess. But it's complicated by the length of the lever throw.
I've got mine set so I can easily get under it but sadly, I have to lift my foot off the peg for some down shifts - maybe more flexible riders don't have that issue. In any case, I no longer notice nor worry about it.

[nz_bullet]

Same problem on my Bullet. I took off the lever and using a sharp chisel carved the cylindrical ribber insert into a "blade" instead. Made more clearance top and bottom.  Good now.

[Beeza]

I found the attached image on a thread in another forum regarding RE UCE engine transmissions.
If this diagram is correct, I wonder why RE chose to have so much movement of the sliding gears.  Downshifting from 5th to 4th involves pulling the 2nd/5th sliding gear out of engagement on the output shaft, then pushing the 3rd/4th slider into engagement on the input shaft.

I guess it's inevitable to require 3 sliding gears for 5 speeds with the input / output shaft gearbox, and the designers just have to choose which ratio transitions involve moving which gears.



The animation in this video uses an alternate arrangement, but might be helpful for those who are having a hard time understanding how the transmission works.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8xnIFf4id4
This arrangement seems more straightforward to me, with 1rst getting its own slider, 2nd / 3rd sharing a slider, and 4th / 5th sharing a slider.

I wonder if any of our members has insight into why RE chose the the design they did?  What advantage does it have?  Or does the arrangement facilitate the flat disc shifter cam, rather than a drum type?

The shifter mechanism can be seen here:  https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=20090.msg221090#msg221090

I like not having whiny straight cut primary gears and also no loaded gears in top. Just a primary chain in lots of oil and an o ring drive chain is hard to beat for silence, longevity and efficiency. So the UCE gearbox design is my kinda thing.

If you are unhappy with the shifting, it can be surprising how much better gears move around when they are running in most, not all, the fancy and expensive bike oils out there. Motul 5100 is  one to try if you haven’t. RE seems to recommend it and it’s widely available. Lots of others like Maxima Pro plus, Liquimoly, and so on.

Motorcycle engines are really good at destroying oil, especially cheap or inappropriate oil.

[9fingers]

I had that issue on my 2016 and Gashousegorilla fixed it by installing a washer between the shift lever and the side case, on the shift shaft itself. Turned out that the shaft would go slightly too far into the transmission and spacing it outward slightly took care of the problem. Worth a try on yours and easy to do.
Scott

[Haggis]

Like 9fingers, check the side play on the gear change shaft.
Mines was a little too much for my liking so I fitted a wave washer to the shaft, inside the engine case.
You can see it here, on the outside of the plastic spacer.
Does the same job as 9fingers washer behind the lever.
This keeps the gear shift finger fully in the slot.