[dexterkane]

Hey! Does anyone know the torque spec for this engine bolt? RH side. Printed out the specs from manual on this page but this one isn't included for some reason.

Thanks!

[Arschloch]

I think RE says 25Nm for an M8 bolt and 50Nm for M10. Bit too much but it might be their way of making sure nothing falls off the bike due to the vibs.

[dexterkane]

I think RE says 25Nm for an M8 bolt and 50Nm for M10. Bit too much but it might be their way of making sure nothing falls off the bike due to the vibs.

I don't know what the M rating of the bolt is unfortunately.

[gizzo]

I don't know what the M rating of the bolt is unfortunately.

M= metric that's all. 8mm or 10mm bolt. You might be thinking about hardness. That's not such a factor at RE. Most fasteners are made from cheese.

[AzCal Retred]

Light Snug with a 3/8" drive 6" ratchet; if it gets loose, back it up to where it was snug and leave it...

Seriously, Gizzo's cheese analogy is right on the mark. Hand tools and Loctite Blue/Vibratite and you'll avoid a lot of angst. Using basic hand tools you'll develop a feel for proper torque. 3/8" - 5/8" & larger you are pretty safe with hand pressure, unless you are a gorilla. Small bolts are best approached with fingertip pressure. Internal engine nuts & bolts are the best place for a torque wrench. Sneak up on it by hand first, you'll be surprised how close you are to the wrench spec. If it "feels" snug enough by hand, be wary of increasing to some torque value 50% or so greater unless you verify the higher spec's OK from multiple sources. It's a sick feeling when it gets tight, then gets looser...

[dexterkane]

M= metric that's all. 8mm or 10mm bolt. You might be thinking about hardness. That's not such a factor at RE. Most fasteners are made from cheese.

M rating is the thread spacing right? Doesn't really help me as I'm not removing the bolt.

Tried the trick of loosening all the engine mounting bolts and retorquing to reduce vibes but not helping much so far. I'm generally OK a mot hamfisting bolts, but just want to make sure everything is done to spec so I can be sure I've given my best shot. I'd be guessing this bolt should be 50mn?

Bike feels pretty crappy after 3k revs so not hitting much more than 50mph and hour at the mo without being pretty uncomfortable. If I can cruise at 60 I'll be happy.

Waiting on a new chain a sprockets (mine is shot) and missing a bar end weight so going to re-evaluate after that.

[gizzo]

M rating is the thread spacing right? Doesn't really help me as I'm not removing the bolt.

The M number is the diameter of the bolt. It just means Metric. Measure the threaded part of the bolt, an M10 should be 10mm(ish) wide. So it fits into a 10mm hole. The hole the bolt actually fits into is less than 10mm of course, to allow for the threads.

Thread spacing is the number that comes after the M number. That's the number of mm between each thread (the pitch)

So M10x 1.25 is a 10mm bolt with 1.25mm between threads.

So you know, different pitches in the same diameter have their own torque settings.

The hardness of the bolt is usually stamped on the bolt head, in numbers or lines going into the corners. The hight the number the harder the bolt. 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 are high tensile. 5.5 is pretty tough, too.


Hope that makes sense.

But those engine mounting bolts, therrs no need to go crazy with torque wrenches. Just do them up tight and be done with it.

[Arschloch]

M = metric thread, 8 = 8mm diameter. Here is a clarification table that used to sit on the back of every venier caliper before engineering became another social science and one plus one was two. 

[gizzo]

Whitworth lol. From back when torque came measured in pood buttons...

[dexterkane]

The M number is the diameter of the bolt. It just means Metric. Measure the threaded part of the bolt, an M10 should be 10mm(ish) wide. So it fits into a 10mm hole. The hole the bolt actually fits into is less than 10mm of course, to allow for the threads.

Thread spacing is the number that comes after the M number. That's the number of mm between each thread (the pitch)

So M10x 1.25 is a 10mm bolt with 1.25mm between threads.

So you know, different pitches in the same diameter have their own torque settings.

The hardness of the bolt is usually stamped on the bolt head, in numbers or lines going into the corners. The hight the number the harder the bolt. 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 are high tensile. 5.5 is pretty tough, too.


Hope that makes sense.

But those engine mounting bolts, therrs no need to go crazy with torque wrenches. Just do them up tight and be done with it.

Ok that's useful thanks.

[dexterkane]

M = metric thread, 8 = 8mm diameter. Here is a clarification table that used to sit on the back of every venier caliper before engineering became another social science and one plus one was two. 

You may as well have written the top row in manderin.

Came for a torque spec, left more confused that I started 

[gizzo]

You may as well have written the top row in manderin.

Came for a torque spec, left more confused that I started 

But once you understand what those numbers mean, you can find the torque spec for anything 😉. Stick with it.

In any case the bolt you circles is a through bolt if I'm not mistaken? So there's only 1 torque spec needed. It's a long bolt with a nut. Otherwise use the torque for the other side. It's the same thing.

[dexterkane]

Light Snug with a 3/8" drive 6" ratchet; if it gets loose, back it up to where it was snug and leave it...

Seriously, Gizzo's cheese analogy is right on the mark. Hand tools and Loctite Blue/Vibratite and you'll avoid a lot of angst. Using basic hand tools you'll develop a feel for proper torque. 3/8" - 5/8" & larger you are pretty safe with hand pressure, unless you are a gorilla. Small bolts are best approached with fingertip pressure. Internal engine nuts & bolts are the best place for a torque wrench. Sneak up on it by hand first, you'll be surprised how close you are to the wrench spec. If it "feels" snug enough by hand, be wary of increasing to some torque value 50% or so greater unless you verify the higher spec's OK from multiple sources. It's a sick feeling when it gets tight, then gets looser...

This is what I normally do, but the info on these forums implied to I should torque everything up to spec for this procedure. There were a few a 50mn and one at 70 which felt tighter than I'd dare to do by hand. Even the ones at 25 felt pretty damn snug. At least I know I was doing it right before now

[dexterkane]

But once you understand what those numbers mean, you can find the torque spec for anything 😉. Stick with it.

In any case the bolt you circles is a through bolt if I'm not mistaken? So there's only 1 torque spec needed. It's a long bolt with a nut. Otherwise use the torque for the other side. It's the same thing.

I though that originally, by then I changed my mind for some reason. I'm going to double check today. Would deffo explain the lack of info in the manual.

[dexterkane]

But once you understand what those numbers mean, you can find the torque spec for anything 😉. Stick with it.

In any case the bolt you circles is a through bolt if I'm not mistaken? So there's only 1 torque spec needed. It's a long bolt with a nut. Otherwise use the torque for the other side. It's the same thing.

It's the words I'm having trouble with. Even google search of nenn stg kern bohr came up with either german or what looked like hieroglyphics   

[gizzo]

It's the words I'm having trouble with. Even google search of nenn stg kern bohr came up with either german or what looked like hieroglyphics   

LoL good one 

[Guaire]

Download the manual from this website and see for yourself.

There's a procedure for re-tightening all the motor mounts to make sure the engine is properly mounted in the frame. Sometimes this loses some of the vibrations.
First, slightly loosen all the mount bolts. Start the motor. The engine will move into a unstressed position in the frame. Re-torque every mount bolt.
  The motor is set in the frame without unnecessary stresses creating extra vibration. I have done this myself and it didn't make a difference. That means the motor was in a good position to begin with.
  I'll check my manual today and post the recommended torque setting. Do you have a torque wrench?

[Guaire]

Hey! Does anyone know the torque spec for this engine bolt? RH side. Printed out the specs from manual on this page but this one isn't included for some reason.

Thanks!

From the Hitchcock parts fiche online: Part # 585429/A. M10 x 210. 70 Newton Meters. 70nm is 51.6 foot pounds.

My 3/8" drive torque wrench has ft lbs and Newton. My 1/4" drive torque wrench has a dial that reads out inch pounds and newton decimeters, for much lighter torque setting.

[dexterkane]

Download the manual from this website and see for yourself.

There's a procedure for re-tightening all the motor mounts to make sure the engine is properly mounted in the frame. Sometimes this loses some of the vibrations.
First, slightly loosen all the mount bolts. Start the motor. The engine will move into a unstressed position in the frame. Re-torque every mount bolt.
  The motor is set in the frame without unnecessary stresses creating extra vibration. I have done this myself and it didn't make a difference. That means the motor was in a good position to begin with.
  I'll check my manual today and post the recommended torque setting. Do you have a torque wrench?

Thanks yeah all sorted now. This particular nut isn't listed in the manual, because the bolt is on the other side and goes all the way through. I'd already torqued the bolt on the other side to spec but got myself a bit confused for some reason. Was a long day yesterday working on the bike around work.

Managed to do the procedure pretty well I think, ran the bike and everything is torqued back to spec. Did make a bit of a difference to the vibes, but today I noticed the bolt at the the top one of shocks was really loose and that made a really noticeable difference when I nipped it up. I'm up to about 55mph without it getting horrible now. I suspect when my new chain and sprockets arrive that will help further. There's a huge tight spot the chain and I reckon the rear wheel alignment could be better. I'm also missing a bar end weight, deffo feels more vibey on one side. Those, a leaking kickstart seal and an oil change is next on the agenda so will be interesting to see how it runs after the next lot of work is done.

Thanks for all the advice so far all

[gizzo]

Good one. If the chain had a tight spot, it'll feel a lot better with a new one.
A word of warning when you do the oil change. Those drain plugs and the oil screen plate, do them up very gently and not very tight. So many people have broken or stripped them.

Are you in Australia by any chance? If you are, I can send you that spare bar end weight if you need.

[dexterkane]

Good one. If the chain had a tight spot, it'll feel a lot better with a new one.
A word of warning when you do the oil change. Those drain plugs and the oil screen plate, do them up very gently and not very tight. So many people have broken or stripped them.

Are you in Australia by any chance? If you are, I can send you that spare bar end weight if you need.

No probs, 1/4 inch torque wrench and fresh copper washers at the ready


Thanks a lot for that offer, although I'm in the UK so might not work out. Annoyingly you can't seem to buy them separately here, a new counterweight assembly is about £25 delivered here.

Was thinking about taking them out altogether, filling the bars with ballbearings and putting on some more retro looking bar end mirrors. Not a huge fan of the quite modern looking RE ones the bike came with. Wonder if anyone has done anything similar.

[AzCal Retred]

" There's a huge tight spot the chain and I reckon the rear wheel alignment could be better "

These run a separate carrier bearing for the sprocket. ( https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/4078 )
Product code: 145553 ; £12.10 ; BEARING, SEALED, REAR WHEEL SPROCKET (FULL WIDTH HUBS) INC EFI & 535 CONTINENTAL GT
If this is failing, it can cause the sprocket to run eccentrically, mimicking a tight chain. Worth a look.



x

[dexterkane]

" There's a huge tight spot the chain and I reckon the rear wheel alignment could be better "

These run a separate carrier bearing for the sprocket. ( https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/4078 )
Product code: 145553 ; £12.10 ; BEARING, SEALED, REAR WHEEL SPROCKET (FULL WIDTH HUBS) INC EFI & 535 CONTINENTAL GT
If this is failing, it can cause the sprocket to run eccentrically, mimicking a tight chain. Worth a look.



x

Ahhh this might be the case! What's the procedure for checking this, see if the sprocket looks out of line at any point when you rotate the wheel? Possibly a bit of wobble going on for sure.

[AzCal Retred]

The stub shaft keeps the chain & rear sprocket assembly on the machine when changing a flat. The bearing takes sprocket loads. Many folks here say about 10K is normal life out of these bearings.
I'd take maybe a half hour and pull it off and look at it. With the wheel off, and the chain as well by popping off the masterlink, you should be able to spin it easily and watch it run true, no up and down movement. A piece of stiff, bendable wire clamped nearby with some vise-grips can provide a reference index point. With a clean greased ball bearing, finger pressure will easily spin it. Any roughness is too much. Anecdotally, there doesn't seem to be much difference in life between a $15 bearing and a $40 bearing, but get the rubber sealed one. Better to find this issue in your garage!

[dexterkane]

The stub shaft keeps the chain & rear sprocket assembly on the machine when changing a flat. The bearing takes sprocket loads. Many folks here say about 10K is normal life out of these bearings.
I'd take maybe a half hour and pull it off and look at it. With the wheel off, and the chain as well by popping off the masterlink, you should be able to spin it easily and watch it run true, no up and down movement. A piece of stiff, bendable wire clamped nearby with some vise-grips can provide a reference index point. With a clean greased ball bearing, finger pressure will easily spin it. Any roughness is too much. Anecdotally, there doesn't seem to be much difference in life between a $15 bearing and a $40 bearing, but get the rubber sealed one. Better to find this issue in your garage!

Very helpful thanks, it's at 8.5k miles so ordered a new one, pretty sure this is the issue. Thinking it about it, I'd pay the money it cost not to have to bother taking the back wheel on sprockets off again for while