[dexterkane]

Hey! Does anyone know the torque spec for this engine bolt? RH side. Printed out the specs from manual on this page but this one isn't included for some reason.

Thanks!

[Arschloch]

I think RE says 25Nm for an M8 bolt and 50Nm for M10. Bit too much but it might be their way of making sure nothing falls off the bike due to the vibs.

[dexterkane]

I think RE says 25Nm for an M8 bolt and 50Nm for M10. Bit too much but it might be their way of making sure nothing falls off the bike due to the vibs.

I don't know what the M rating of the bolt is unfortunately.

[gizzo]

I don't know what the M rating of the bolt is unfortunately.

M= metric that's all. 8mm or 10mm bolt. You might be thinking about hardness. That's not such a factor at RE. Most fasteners are made from cheese.

[AzCal Retred]

Light Snug with a 3/8" drive 6" ratchet; if it gets loose, back it up to where it was snug and leave it...

Seriously, Gizzo's cheese analogy is right on the mark. Hand tools and Loctite Blue/Vibratite and you'll avoid a lot of angst. Using basic hand tools you'll develop a feel for proper torque. 3/8" - 5/8" & larger you are pretty safe with hand pressure, unless you are a gorilla. Small bolts are best approached with fingertip pressure. Internal engine nuts & bolts are the best place for a torque wrench. Sneak up on it by hand first, you'll be surprised how close you are to the wrench spec. If it "feels" snug enough by hand, be wary of increasing to some torque value 50% or so greater unless you verify the higher spec's OK from multiple sources. It's a sick feeling when it gets tight, then gets looser...

[dexterkane]

M= metric that's all. 8mm or 10mm bolt. You might be thinking about hardness. That's not such a factor at RE. Most fasteners are made from cheese.

M rating is the thread spacing right? Doesn't really help me as I'm not removing the bolt.

Tried the trick of loosening all the engine mounting bolts and retorquing to reduce vibes but not helping much so far. I'm generally OK a mot hamfisting bolts, but just want to make sure everything is done to spec so I can be sure I've given my best shot. I'd be guessing this bolt should be 50mn?

Bike feels pretty crappy after 3k revs so not hitting much more than 50mph and hour at the mo without being pretty uncomfortable. If I can cruise at 60 I'll be happy.

Waiting on a new chain a sprockets (mine is shot) and missing a bar end weight so going to re-evaluate after that.

[gizzo]

M rating is the thread spacing right? Doesn't really help me as I'm not removing the bolt.

The M number is the diameter of the bolt. It just means Metric. Measure the threaded part of the bolt, an M10 should be 10mm(ish) wide. So it fits into a 10mm hole. The hole the bolt actually fits into is less than 10mm of course, to allow for the threads.

Thread spacing is the number that comes after the M number. That's the number of mm between each thread (the pitch)

So M10x 1.25 is a 10mm bolt with 1.25mm between threads.

So you know, different pitches in the same diameter have their own torque settings.

The hardness of the bolt is usually stamped on the bolt head, in numbers or lines going into the corners. The hight the number the harder the bolt. 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 are high tensile. 5.5 is pretty tough, too.


Hope that makes sense.

But those engine mounting bolts, therrs no need to go crazy with torque wrenches. Just do them up tight and be done with it.

[Arschloch]

M = metric thread, 8 = 8mm diameter. Here is a clarification table that used to sit on the back of every venier caliper before engineering became another social science and one plus one was two. 

[gizzo]

Whitworth lol. From back when torque came measured in pood buttons...

[dexterkane]

The M number is the diameter of the bolt. It just means Metric. Measure the threaded part of the bolt, an M10 should be 10mm(ish) wide. So it fits into a 10mm hole. The hole the bolt actually fits into is less than 10mm of course, to allow for the threads.

Thread spacing is the number that comes after the M number. That's the number of mm between each thread (the pitch)

So M10x 1.25 is a 10mm bolt with 1.25mm between threads.

So you know, different pitches in the same diameter have their own torque settings.

The hardness of the bolt is usually stamped on the bolt head, in numbers or lines going into the corners. The hight the number the harder the bolt. 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 are high tensile. 5.5 is pretty tough, too.


Hope that makes sense.

But those engine mounting bolts, therrs no need to go crazy with torque wrenches. Just do them up tight and be done with it.

Ok that's useful thanks.

[dexterkane]

M = metric thread, 8 = 8mm diameter. Here is a clarification table that used to sit on the back of every venier caliper before engineering became another social science and one plus one was two. 

You may as well have written the top row in manderin.

Came for a torque spec, left more confused that I started 

[gizzo]

You may as well have written the top row in manderin.

Came for a torque spec, left more confused that I started 

But once you understand what those numbers mean, you can find the torque spec for anything 😉. Stick with it.

In any case the bolt you circles is a through bolt if I'm not mistaken? So there's only 1 torque spec needed. It's a long bolt with a nut. Otherwise use the torque for the other side. It's the same thing.

[dexterkane]

Light Snug with a 3/8" drive 6" ratchet; if it gets loose, back it up to where it was snug and leave it...

Seriously, Gizzo's cheese analogy is right on the mark. Hand tools and Loctite Blue/Vibratite and you'll avoid a lot of angst. Using basic hand tools you'll develop a feel for proper torque. 3/8" - 5/8" & larger you are pretty safe with hand pressure, unless you are a gorilla. Small bolts are best approached with fingertip pressure. Internal engine nuts & bolts are the best place for a torque wrench. Sneak up on it by hand first, you'll be surprised how close you are to the wrench spec. If it "feels" snug enough by hand, be wary of increasing to some torque value 50% or so greater unless you verify the higher spec's OK from multiple sources. It's a sick feeling when it gets tight, then gets looser...

This is what I normally do, but the info on these forums implied to I should torque everything up to spec for this procedure. There were a few a 50mn and one at 70 which felt tighter than I'd dare to do by hand. Even the ones at 25 felt pretty damn snug. At least I know I was doing it right before now

[dexterkane]

But once you understand what those numbers mean, you can find the torque spec for anything 😉. Stick with it.

In any case the bolt you circles is a through bolt if I'm not mistaken? So there's only 1 torque spec needed. It's a long bolt with a nut. Otherwise use the torque for the other side. It's the same thing.

I though that originally, by then I changed my mind for some reason. I'm going to double check today. Would deffo explain the lack of info in the manual.

[dexterkane]

But once you understand what those numbers mean, you can find the torque spec for anything 😉. Stick with it.

In any case the bolt you circles is a through bolt if I'm not mistaken? So there's only 1 torque spec needed. It's a long bolt with a nut. Otherwise use the torque for the other side. It's the same thing.

It's the words I'm having trouble with. Even google search of nenn stg kern bohr came up with either german or what looked like hieroglyphics