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1
Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: Trouble starting
« Last post by SimonT on April 25, 2018, 11:58:24 pm »
update:

So i had a thought with the lower compression... if voltage is low, crank speed could be low... which would mean lower compression.

Ive attached a picture of the coil... i tried unscrewing the lead, but didnt force it. if it doesnt unscrew and breaks, im screwed... (no pun intended).

Adjusted the idle screw again.... its ok when cold, but still revs high when hot.

Had a horror on Tuesday morning trying to start it. Took me 30 mins to get it started. Thats after leaving it on the battery charger over night. Its a smart charger, so i assume it turns off when the battery is charged.
I assume the battery voltage had dropped again by the morning. was a horror show.

Also had a spare car battery laying around. Yesterday i had a play around with it again... and used this connected instead of the bikes battery. Was much easier to start... once started i tweaked the idle again. Voltage of the car battery would have been up around 13v i think.

This morning i connected the car battery to the bike battery with jumper leads, and it started first kick on kick starter. I disconnected the battery, then the engine died 10 seconds later. Reattached the jumper leads, and got it restarted a number of kicks later. left the jumper leads connected for a while until i left home.
Lets see how it starts on the way home this afternoon with no external battery.

Also fabbed up a new anti-vibration mount... much nicer to ride!!

I think thats about all to report for now.



2
Quote
2. Some engines have been found with loose bolts on the blocks that support the rocker arms but if your mechanics have checked inside the upper end I'm sure they would have found that if it existed.
I might guess it is caused by low oil pressure that doesn't keep the hydraulic valve lifters pumped up but if a lifter is down the clacking is almost deafening.
Still, it might be worthwhile to have your mechanic check the oil pressure when the engine is running.  It should be about 4.5 bar (66 psi) although pressures at 2 bar or even lower should still keep the lifters pumped up.

I dont think even the official service center here can do that. I'll give it a shot though.

If the oil pressure is low, what measures can be taken to obviate that?
3
Vintage Royal Enfield/Indian / Not A Fury
« Last post by Adrian II on April 25, 2018, 10:18:23 pm »
Greetings!

Ever had one of those projects that just gets stalled and takes ages to get it finally sorted? Yep, my big head Bullet project fell victim to life's ups, downs and distractions since it was launched.

To cut a long story short, this restoration project is at last finally staring completion in the face, with only a few small jobs to complete before the dreaded MoT test on Wednesday.

Anyone want to see a picture? No? Too bad, here it is, I present to you Not A Fury!



I am hoping for some fun with this one, it has one of Bullet Whisperer's ASBO-tuned engines...

A real Fury for comparison:



Can post some more info if there is any interest.

A.
4
Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Does everyone who runs a enfield bullet iron barrel...
« Last post by Adrian II on April 25, 2018, 09:59:48 pm »
The Trifield (unit 350 or 500 Triumph twin in RE Crusader frame) was quite a popular special in the UK back in the day. You can still get the engine plates to build one from Unity Equipe.

Quote
it looks a mess..

This one?  ;D



Er... yeah, home-brew build quality varied enormously! One important job was to find a separate oil tank that was a decent fit, the Crusader oil tank was intergral with the engine and gearbox. If it is this one it also has RE's own leading link forks.

Feeling brave?

A.
5
Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: What is up with the lighting selector switch?
« Last post by Bilgemaster on April 25, 2018, 09:47:46 pm »
No , but the DOT might come after ya ! ::)   ;D

 Here.. not sure if this apply's to the new bikes or not ?  But have a look...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhQUNMKRix4

Unfortunately, the wiring shown in that video with its easy "unplug-and-play" switch fix doesn't seem to bear much resemblance to that found in the headlamp shell of my 2005 shown below, which was taken when I was swapping out that goofy little 5 inch headlamp for a 7 incher:



Or maybe it does, but my connectors are just not so blatantly standing out in that shade of "really meant to be together orange" as the ones in that video.

On the one hand, I'm kind of OK with knowing that headlamp's always on for safety's sake--One less thing to remember. On the other, I'm bypassing a perfectly good switch that's right there and all. I mean, why just have a "nuttin' button" there, right? Also, there are times when you might not want a blazing headlamp and tail lamp: sucking up all the juice on a cold day's hard starting, disturbing fellow campers during a late arrival at a campsite, or attracting every airborne bug in the county pretty much straight into your teeth...I get enough protein, thanks.

So, just from the photo above, can anyone describe what I might need to yank out and then plug in to give my light switch a reason for being?
6
Bullet with the UCE engine / Re: What is up with the lighting selector switch?
« Last post by Arizoni on April 25, 2018, 08:27:28 pm »
Speaking of Singh5g's video, it's easier to gain access to the jumper by just removing the large screw at the top of the headlight and tipping the bulb out.

Speaking of Singh5g, I haven't seen anything posted by him for some time.
I sure hope he's all right.  He's one of the truly "good guys" on the forum.
7
Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Removing exhaust down pipe from cylinder head
« Last post by jacobia stig on April 25, 2018, 07:56:50 pm »
I have a 2000 iron head. The header never set well in the exhaust port. I tried sealant, shims, exhaust pipe expander --nothing worked for long. Recently the upper bracket weld broke, the shop I took it to created an adjustable heavy duty bracket and welded it in place, the bolt hole is elongated so you can push the pipe home and tighten it in place. 3 months no leaks no problem.

I did this with the original fitting pipe, you can elongate slightly the main bolt hole to allow a slight slide into place and then spring washer and a high temp silicon finish around the barrel and the pipe and it honestly changed my bikes life :)
8
i love this forum :)
i need to do the piston swap asap really, ive enjoyed jetting it up for a few months at a time  every now and then because it really does become alot more fun to ride and everything works really nice together... but it gets hot, and sooner or later i melt the inlet from the carb i jet back down for abit and go back to tootling about... i was just having a moan while i waited for bits to arrive and the sun was out withot me.

but ya see, when i do the piston swap, then ill do other bits while im in there and hence my original gripe... simply put.. i need 2.

there's a weird thing on ebay called a trifield at the moment.. it looks a mess.. i really want it.
9
Would removing this jumper Void my warranty? Is it a literal Jumper (singular)? Or a Pig Tail (short harness with multiple dead end/re routing wires that delete others)?

 No , but the DOT might come after ya ! ::)   ;D

 Here.. not sure if this apply's to the new bikes or not ?  But have a look...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhQUNMKRix4
10
The overtightending of the chain is not uncommon. Just push the ratchet mechanism down and start over. There may be an improved model.

As for the bolt that fell out - thankfully you didn't end up with a catastrophic failure and all is well,

Thanks Kevin....Yeah, I loosened the ratchet and put lock tite on the bolt. I will be checking this at every oil change from now on. I'm very lucky the sprag and chain stayed on somehow.
...Jimmy
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