Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: Eagle56 on April 28, 2016, 06:27:37 pm
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Hi
I have A 2009 efi electric in nice cond with free flow exhaust tuned by the previous owner except for some minor recent problems it pull like a train and purrs along at 65 to 70
What I really want to now is what is the benefit of getting a new one over the one I already have which will be several years older
If it's just a plate is it really worth th extra expense ?
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Oooh, hard decision, how many of us have got rid of a bike for something "better" and regretted it? I have, more than once. If the bikes behaving and you enjoy it why change?
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Coz it's having running probes that are pissing me off
But when it's good it's very good
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A couple years ago I considered and "up grade " to a new EFI B5.
Glad I kept my "old" RE.
Reason? I like having a carb, .but there is much tech support and many parts and modifications to be had.
As many as your heart , time and wallet want to tackle.
Consider fixing your current RE. Lots of help here.
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There have been times when I've thought right then. That's the bike going in for trade as now (insert any problem here) has annoyed me and go for another brand or a new R.E but
Thing is though,
1. Not worth much trade (£1500 or so)
2. Got to find extra £'s and bike is currently paid for.
3. Now know the bikes foibles really well.
4. Somebody bought it new and fell out of love with it, so now it's time for me to care for it until it gives up.
5. All niggles are soon forgotten when stopped and people give a nice comment on the bike.
To be fair, I can't expect a full trade either since a small dent in tank and chain snap damaged the casing. A sharp eyed salesman would knock more money off.
I hope you manage to get things sorted on your current bike but I guess if it has got to the stage where the straw has finally broken and you can get a good trade AND have an eye on a shiny new R.E then go for it.
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If you like your bike rather than buy a new one take the money and have this one fixed by a GOOD shop. You get to keep your "Old Friend" and most of the problems will be taken care of.
And you can never know if the new bike won't be a problem child can you?
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Where's Wildbill when you need him? He knows a thing or two about buying next year's model! ;D
If your bike is cheesing you off and you can afford to get a new one, go for it.
You'll probably get a bit more selling it privately rather than part-exchanging it though.
The consensus of opinion is the newer models have improved in quality steadily each year and you'll have the benefit of knowing it from new.
Good luck with your decision.
John
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I think it would be impossible to get on a new 016 plated bike and not think it has improved since 09
when I first bought my c5 about 3 years ago I noted slight improvement on my new bikes every 6 months -sometimes not even that ;D
only one thing you will have to do to a new 016 plated bike apart from ride it. unscrew the regulator bracket and zip tie it to the frame - if not it will break just like my last 3 with the new location have.
i'd say if your in a position to buy new and I mean 016 plated new go for it.
I always wanted a new bike but as soon as I buy them there second hand ::)
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Somewhere in this forum it was mentioned that the early UCEs had an issue with the Keihin ECU. I think it was problems similar to yours, but IDRC if it was only in India before they were corrected.
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If you like your bike rather than buy a new one take the money and have this one fixed by a GOOD shop. You get to keep your "Old Friend" and most of the problems will be taken care of.
And you can never know if the new bike won't be a problem child can you?
Very very well said.
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I'd go for a new one. As Wildbill says, they have improved steadily over the years eg the latest ones have a much better tank mounting system. FWIW I made it a rule several years ago never to buy the first of a new model; let others do the snagging. With few exceptions the last of the line are usually the best, at least in terms of being properly sorted. At the end of the cliche it's a thing only you can decide. :)
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What are the problems? Start another thread and ask for advice. Might be some simple fixes that sort it right out.
Scott
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Bloody thing change of plug and 02 elliminator and it ran very well until the next time ????
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just saw this-did it do it again. I wonder what is the battery reading in volts
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What are the problems? Start another thread and ask for advice. Might be some simple fixes that sort it right out.
+1 These bikes are really not that complex and if your willing to dig into the issue, I bet you can solve it much easier than you think.
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They do get better but..... it is incremental at most. There is noting on your bike that can't be just as good as a 2017 once you get it sorted out.
BTW the ECU problems with the 500cc were India only where they use and open loop system
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Battery is reading 12.29v
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12.9 is right for a charged battery. Now you want to load test it.
Turn on the ignition..but don't start the bike..turn on your lights and give it few minutes- check the voltage. Now start your bike and check the voltage. What are the numbers?
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I went for a ride and it started running rough again
With doubts that it would get me back home again I new it wouldn't be long
Battery readings
On no lights 12.34
With lights. 11.76
With lights after a rew mins 11.70
Slow poor tick over with lights. 11.97
No lights with tick over 13.00
Is this normal?
Linked battery up to my optimisor
This reads
12.5 volts
08.7 amps
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Seems low to me so I did a little checking and here's a nice write up and a battery charge chart for you. One other thing I'd do is clean all the ground points you can find, the battery, main harness are the most important.
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/battery.htm (http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/battery.htm)
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Sufficient acid level in battery I take it?
Anyway, mine had a 'cell' down but did not give the symptoms you have experienced. Only prob I had was electric start was a no go. Thank Donald Duck for a kicker lol.
I reckon something maybe dirty or blocked but I'll have to re-read the other thread.
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your numbers are way out -id say battery or changing system, mine as follow
battery check 12.32
motor running 14.20
headlight on and running 12.45
headlights off and running 14.25
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I've had the battery on the optimisor all night I will check it out again
It will be net resting to see how it runs with an over night charge
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Battery 12.8
Lights on 12.6
Fast ticker on the throttle because it kept cutting out 13 to 14
Fast tick user with lights 12.75
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Interesting, those number seem low for having been on the charger all night. Kind of reaching here, but maybe a cracked cell that could give intermittent performance once the vibrations start?
Process of illumination will get you there and will likely be something simple. Hang in there, you will figure it out.
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Process of illumination will get you there and will likely be something simple.
Sometimes these little auto-correct mistakes are more profound than the original statements...
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Poxy Apple text
All connections have been pulled and speed with wd40
I have added an extra earth from bat to body
Next will be fault codes
Failing this drain the tank clean out the filter
Replace the coil lead and cap
Replace rectifter
Replace battery
If this don't work it's in the skip
Most parts are cheap which makes changing as a process isn't too expensive unless it's the pump these are crazy price.
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Before you go ripping things apart, get your bike (if you can) into a pitch dark shed/garage, start it up and look for any tracking from the HT lead plug cap wiring etc. It could be a simple problem. This has worked for me in the past, it may not be the answer in your case, but it doesn't cost anything.
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Yes, the pumps are ridiculous. I believe there is a volume test that can confirm it's pumping the correct amount.
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Some info here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=G693XQaXfX0
Found this on the Indian RE forum.
EFI Models Including Classic 500, Thunderbird 500 Have Many Riders Reporting Malfunction Of The Fuel Pump. This Is Because The Motor In The Fuel Pump Is Damaged Due To 1. Overheating Because Of Low Fuel Level 2. Low Quality Of Fuel Resulting In Deposits - This Should Be Cleared Using A Good Fuel Injector Cleaner Additive In The Tank 3. Keeping The Bike Unused With Petrol In The Tank Causing Deposits In The Motor Techno Services In Pune Is Offering A Cheaper Alternative. Tehy Replace The Motor And Filter For Rs.5000. Check Out The Ad In OLX.IN Https://Www.Olx.In/Item/Royal-Enfield-500-Fuel-Pump-Affordable-Repair-Replacement-Service-ID13OyYp.Html#D50d115c7f
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I can hear/feel the pump kick in, hoping it's a good sign.
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checking for a fault code would be a good idea plus have you pulled the headlight to check if the wires to the ignition are held securely.
they have been know to come loose at times
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Okay Eagle , I give up.
Trade me your Bullet .
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If your bike is in good condition, as in not crashed or dropped, and you like it other than the running issue, I certainly wouldn't get rid of it. You will get almost nothing for it, and have to pay full price for a new one. Since you have checked all the easy stuff, it could be in the ECU, fuel pump or throttle body. I don't know how you test those. The ignition is simple except for the CDI. If your battery has enough current to start the bike, it likely has enough to power the ignition and EFI systems. I have no idea what the current draw is on the fuel pump, but it might be on the high side. If you have a flooded type battery, I would definitely replace that with a MF AGM type. And make absolutely sure all the wiring is good, especially the ground.
If it were mine I would go with the carb kit. It also comes with a new ignition system, since the ignition and EFI are connected together. I know everybody wants EFI, but I don't know why. It seems to me that anyone who would choose an Enfield over the latest high tech Japanese wonder bike would actually prefer a carb. It seems expensive, but only costs a small fraction of what it would cost for a new bike.