[SouthernShandyDrinker]

Hi, Forum virgin here.
I've only cover 350 miles from new and I'm very happy with the bike apart from one small irritation.
At low speed when filtering using very small throttle openings the bike can just stall (over 10 times to date).
When stationary the bike is ticking over at 1200 rpm but I have noticed that if I blip the throttle a tiny bit to about 1500 rpm the revs drop like a stone to about 800 rpm every time.
Combine this with the merest hint of clutch engagement as when filtering and it can stall in situations when you want total control.
I feel that its probably a Euro 5 issue with fueling but none the less has anyone got any advice.

[lucky phil]

Hi, Forum virgin here.
I've only cover 350 miles from new and I'm very happy with the bike apart from one small irritation.
At low speed when filtering using very small throttle openings the bike can just stall (over 10 times to date).
When stationary the bike is ticking over at 1200 rpm but I have noticed that if I blip the throttle a tiny bit to about 1500 rpm the revs drop like a stone to about 800 rpm every time.
Combine this with the merest hint of clutch engagement as when filtering and it can stall in situations when you want total control.
I feel that its probably a Euro 5 issue with fueling but none the less has anyone got any advice.

Simple thing is it may be idling a little low. Mine shows around 1400 rpm on the tacho at idle from memory and I think others here have remarked on the highish idle. It should be able to idle at around 1200 rpm just fine but who knows how accurate the tacho is. The only thing I would say is if it's only just developed this trait I'd do the first service valve clearance check early. If you have a very tight valve it can cause idling issues. I also found when I pulled the throttle body cover off that the small rubber boot on the end of the opening cable adjuster had fallen off and slid down the cable and was jamming in the throttle cam. I would expect this to cause high idling though.
Has it always had this issue?

Ciao 

[NVDucati]

Hi, Forum virgin here.
I've only cover 350 miles from new and I'm very happy with the bike apart from one small irritation.
At low speed when filtering using very small throttle openings the bike can just stall (over 10 times to date).
When stationary the bike is ticking over at 1200 rpm but I have noticed that if I blip the throttle a tiny bit to about 1500 rpm the revs drop like a stone to about 800 rpm every time.
Combine this with the merest hint of clutch engagement as when filtering and it can stall in situations when you want total control.
I feel that its probably a Euro 5 issue with fueling but none the less has anyone got any advice.

I don't know / don't have an answer. But just to make sure I understand the symptom...
The bike idles at 1200
If you momentarily blip the throttle to 1500 and close the throttle the RPM drops but does not stop at the original 1200 and continues to drop to 800. (every time)
Is that an accurate re-statement?

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

Yes that correct. It has had it's first service and I did point this issue out to the dealer and they had no answer. I can understand their response to a degree as mine was the first Euro5 to comeback for a first service (£264) so until it becomes a trend maybe then there will be a bit more dealer investigation.
I have thought as a temporary fix as you suggested increasing the idle speed a touch but unsure what to look for as nothing jumps out as an adjuster.
The W800 that I sold to get the Interceptor had a visible knurled knob that controlled the idle.
Could you point me in the right direction for the adjuster.
In every other measurable way the Interceptor is a better riders bike than the W800, which I loved. Add to the catalogue
of aftermarket parts and general enthusiasm for the brand and I was hooked. Here's to many year with Enfield.
Thanks for your help.       

[NVDucati]

Yes that correct. It has had it's first service and I did point this issue out to the dealer and they had no answer. I can understand their response to a degree as mine was the first Euro5 to comeback for a first service (£264) so until it becomes a trend maybe then there will be a bit more dealer investigation.
I have thought as a temporary fix as you suggested increasing the idle speed a touch but unsure what to look for as nothing jumps out as an adjuster.
The W800 that I sold to get the Interceptor had a visible knurled knob that controlled the idle.
Could you point me in the right direction for the adjuster.
In every other measurable way the Interceptor is a better riders bike than the W800, which I loved. Add to the catalogue
of aftermarket parts and general enthusiasm for the brand and I was hooked. Here's to many year with Enfield.
Thanks for your help.     

Welcome to the forum. I'm willing to guess that your issue is where the electronic and mechanical worlds meet. Once you hve established that you have at least some slack in the throttle cables, it seems that the junction between those two elements is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). On page 601 of the pre-EU5 shop manual speaks to this.
"4. ThrottlePositionSensor
A Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is used to monitor the position of the throttle operation and is located on the butter y spindle so that it can directly monitor the position of the throttle. The sensor is a potentiometer type and therefore provides a variable resistance depending upon the position of the butter y valve and hence throttle position can be sensed by the ECU. The sensor signal is used by the ECU as an input to its control system. The ignition timing and fuel injection timing (and potentially other parameters) are altered depending upon the position of the throttle, and also depending on the rate of change of the position.
The ECU uses the throttle valve position to know:
• Engine mode: Idle, Part Throttle, Wide-Open Throttle.
• Air-fuel ratio correction.
• Acceleration/ Deceleration correction."

You didn't say if the dealer used their scan tool on your bike.
Am I right in guessing that you are in the UK? And if so then you must drive past Harris Performance every day on the way to the shops. 

[supercub]

There are some small vacuum hoses that can easily get pulled off of the intakes, you may want to check all hoses and tubing for damage and proper fitting. If all is fine, I would suggest bringing it to a different dealer for diagnosis as it sounds like an an intake air leak. It is doubtfull that this is E5 related, at worse, the bike would have less power all around, not a definite stumble.

[zimmemr]

There are some small vacuum hoses that can easily get pulled off of the intakes, you may want to check all hoses and tubing for damage and proper fitting. If all is fine, I would suggest bringing it to a different dealer for diagnosis as it sounds like an an intake air leak. It is doubtfull that this is E5 related, at worse, the bike would have less power all around, not a definite stumble.

Good suggestion here. Look for a disconnected MAP sensor hose. It should be attached to a nipple on the left throttle body. It's very easy to accidently disconnnect it when removing the valve cover, which will create a small vacuum leak. The symptoms will be as you describe and the leak isn't large enough to set the CEL. It's a pain in the ass to install it without removing the tank but you can do it.

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

How did you guess, I pop into Harris every day for tea and cake.
I'm not sure what they did during the service, there's an element of trust in that you hope they've gone through logical processes but unless your watching you'll never know.
I'm about to have a look for any of the aspects a couple of the other posters have suggested and see if there is any improvements then I'll some more tea and cake.

Cheers.
   

[NVDucati]

How did you guess, I pop into Harris every day for tea and cake.
I'm not sure what they did during the service, there's an element of trust in that you hope they've gone through logical processes but unless your watching you'll never know.
I'm about to have a look for any of the aspects a couple of the other posters have suggested and see if there is any improvements then I'll some more tea and cake.

Cheers.

SouthernShandyDrinker , are you saying that this did not happen until after that first service?
If that is true ... then the hose that supercub and zimmemr mention  moves straight to the top of the list.

[supercub]

My bike rides at 1500 at startup and then drops down to 1200 after warming up. I can see where it would stumble at 800 as it has to overcome the flywheel on a 270 deg. Crank.

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

My bike rides at 1500 at startup and then drops down to 1200 after warming up. I can see where it would stumble at 800 as it has to overcome the flywheel on a 270 deg. Crank.

This is the way I'm starting to think. This stumble has been noticeable from new. However, after going through and checking all the possibility's that have been offered on the forum and finding it all okay I went out for a ride to see if I could get it to stumble and cutout under different circumstances. This is my findings.
If I slowing down for a stop light in 1st gear closed throttle at just over walking pace using the small amount of engine breaking showing 1500ish rpm and pull the clutch leaver in as I come to a standstill, then the revs dropped to 800 rpm in the same way as when I was blip-ping the throttle to 1500rpm then it drops to 800 rpm and occasionally stalls. I did this slowing down a couple of times and it stalled on one of the occasions.
So I think its maybe a flywheel mass and or a more restrictive exhaust system on the Euro5.
Only problem is how to confirm this.       

[whippers]

The idle speed when warm is 1200 +/- 80 rpm. This is pretty high actually. So I don't understand how you can blip the throttle to 800rpm.  The only way to do that should be to load the engine like moving off at idle with some rear brake on or similar. 

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

The idle speed when warm is 1200 +/- 80 rpm. This is pretty high actually. So I don't understand how you can blip the throttle to 800rpm.  The only way to do that should be to load the engine like moving off at idle with some rear brake on or similar.

Thanks for the heads up. I put it down to being late and not previewing what I've written. Hopefully it makes more sense now.

[lucky phil]

Thanks for the heads up. I put it down to being late and not previewing what I've written. Hopefully it makes more sense now.

As mentioned in a previous post and a good idea is to check all the vacuum hoses are connected to the throttle body. One in particular has been left off on more than one occasion after tank off maintenance. The idle on these engines is controlled by a stepper motor from the ECU and idle speed and the null position of the TPS with relation to the throttle blade position will also be done via the ECU on the factory tuning and diagnosis equipment although you may be able to use aftermarket units I have seen advertised to accomplish this.
Older style motorcycle EFI had adjustable TPS's and you could set the null position with the throttle blades completely shut via a simple multimetre measuring a Millivolt target. Generally around 150mv closed and 5 volts full throttle. Modern EFI as the RE has non physically adjustable TPS so it's done via the diagnostic equipment. As you said some comparative info from another Euro 5 model would be handy but it seems your bike may have an issue OR a faulty idle stepper motor on throttle bodies. A slow to respond idle stepper motor isn't an unheard thing and the stepper motor is cheap and easy to replace. One would be around $100 US or even less going on English prices.
Any half competent dealer mechanic should be able to replace the stepper motor and reset the idle in around an hour.
Having said all this I'm not sure I ride any bike the same way as you do. I generally don't change down to first coming to a stop but roll up to the stopped point in second and by the time I'm at walking pace I've slipped the bike into neutral from 2nd gear so I don't have the engine pulling the revs down to a low rpm and then whipping the clutch in. I've probably got the clutch disengaged by 10kph and am selecting neutral. Maybe I'm not sure but it might be your riding style that's contributing in that the idle stepper motor can't react fast enough to the revs being pulled down to below it's idle setting then it needs to react. Try my technique and see if it does the same as your style. Remember the indicated Idle speed and the actual idle speed may be a little bit different. I've seen them 150 rpm different between the actual and indicated on a few different makes of twins. What software is your bike running? Go to your bike and with the ignition OFF push and hold the trip reset button and wait 10 seconds. A code will appear such as P-1-04 which is my bikes code. It only appears briefly so be ready to note it down. I'd be interested to see what your software is. 

Ciao
     

[supercub]

These bikes are happy when the revs are kept up, always in a gear position where you can roll the throttle to accelerate quickly if needed.

[NVDucati]

Yup. Page 617 (pre-EU5 shop manual)

8. IdleAirControlValve
Idle Air Control Valve is basically a stepper motor controlling the bypass air to the engine and helps to idle and cold start the engine without di culties. The ECU accordingly collects the data from the engine oil temperature and intake air temperature sensors and operates the stepper motor in regulating the engine RPM. This allows the engine’s idle speed to be maintained constant.

Because by and large these bikes are pretty problem free, I suspect most dealerships have not spent a lot of time learning the finer points of their diagnostic tech tools. This might be your chance to help them grow .

[lucky phil]

Yup. Page 617 (pre-EU5 shop manual)

8. IdleAirControlValve
Idle Air Control Valve is basically a stepper motor controlling the bypass air to the engine and helps to idle and cold start the engine without di culties. The ECU accordingly collects the data from the engine oil temperature and intake air temperature sensors and operates the stepper motor in regulating the engine RPM. This allows the engine’s idle speed to be maintained constant.

Because by and large these bikes are pretty problem free, I suspect most dealerships have not spent a lot of time learning the finer points of their diagnostic tech tools. This might be your chance to help them grow .

Isn't that why dealer techs attend manufacturer run/supplied/outsourced tech training on their products and they are required to have and use all the manufacturers approved tooling? Unless the selling dealer has been selling pre 90's motorcycles exclusively before RE then he should be totally on top of modern EFI systems. They all work largely the same. If you know Ducati/Guzzi/BMW/Suzuki etc you aren't going to be surprised or confused by anything Royal Enfield. If all you've been selling is old Pommie bikes from the 70's then you may be.

Ciao   

[NVDucati]

Isn't that why dealer techs attend manufacturer run/supplied/outsourced tech training on their products and they are required to have and use all the manufacturers approved tooling?

That's the plan ... YMMV

[whippers]

These bikes are happy when the revs are kept up, always in a gear position where you can roll the throttle to accelerate quickly if needed.

I don't agree.  These twins are very softly tuned and have fantastic fuelling at low revs and will pull happily from 2k and even a little below if you are gentle with the throttle.  80% of torque is available at 2,500rpm.  The exact opposite of a bike happy when the revs are kept up

[fireypete]

Hey SSD
My 2021 Euro4 did the same, but only a few times.  Slowing down from speed in traffic, blipping the throttle through the gears on down change 'cause its cool and clutch in, stop and the revs would die to 800, didn't stall but wasn't happy.  I did find on the LHS throttle body an exposed nipple which needs a rubber hose on it. There should be 2 hoses, the one that is nearest you and is easy to see and a thinner one behind.. Should be in a post by me.  Putting this back on helped.
Frankly, I dont have much faith in my local RE mechanic after the first "service"  I will need to travel a lot further to one with a good rep. Oh, if they did not do the valve clearances I would suggest you do them.. Plenty of vids, and its not that hard.  First time i'd done valves on anything!  I found all of mine very tight at 1200K, and when corrected the bike ran much better, very noticeable difference!
Cheers,
Pete

[Starpeve]

I don't agree.  These twins are very softly tuned and have fantastic fuelling at low revs and will pull happily from 2k and even a little below if you are gentle with the throttle.  80% of torque is available at 2,500rpm.  The exact opposite of a bike happy when the revs are kept up

I agree with you but also agree that these motors love to be at a peppy rev.

[LXpat]

Not to be too contrarian to the thread, but I do think this situation is largely a symptom of Euro5, and only requires a bit of wrist recalibration to overcome. It doesn't sound like anything at all is wrong with your bike.
My Interceptor is also a Euro 5 and does exactly as you describe. The first week I had it, I also stalled it frequently. As mentioned by several on this thread, at a light, even when warmed up, a quick blip of the throttle will cause a dip to below idle speed, before the revs climb back up. When the bike is cold, or if you are simultaneously letting the clutch out, this causes a sputter or stall.

I'm quite certain the cause is the ECU having to quickly switch from idle circuit to its low-speed circuit, and back again. Because the idle circuit is particularly lean for Euro 5, the bike coughs for a minute as the mixture suddenly goes from lean to rich to lean. The issue is compounded by the fact that these engines are not particularly torquey/don't have much fly-wheel affect and need a decent bit of revs to get going, leading to stalling if you're not giving it enough juice because the ECU's low speed and idle circuits are too lean to keep the motor going without throttle input.
In fairness, all of my other fuel-injected bikes (early-mid 2000's era) have also coughed on quick throttle blips from idle, so I'm not too unhappy. And from what journos have been saying about the new generation of Euro 5 bikes, rough low speed fueling is pretty common, so the RE 650s could be a lot worse. My fix has just been smooth and consistent roll-ons from idle, and a bit of extra clutch feathering in traffic, and the stalls have pretty much gone away.

[Browner]

My bike is a 2021 euro5 with700 miles on the clock. My first ride out it stalled when pulling up at a junction. Thought this was because engine was new and required bedding in. This happened on most ride outs and became annoying. 300 mile service dealer did a test ride and no concerns told to contact them if it continued which it did. The throttle sensor was found to be faulty. Going in this week to be replaced under warranty, so will see if that sorts the issue out.

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

My bike is a 2021 euro5 with700 miles on the clock. My first ride out it stalled when pulling up at a junction. Thought this was because engine was new and required bedding in. This happened on most ride outs and became annoying. 300 mile service dealer did a test ride and no concerns told to contact them if it continued which it did. The throttle sensor was found to be faulty. Going in this week to be replaced under warranty, so will see if that sorts the issue out.

Please keep us updated as it's a bit of a fly in the ointment in an otherwise great bike. Others who live in more rural areas won't find it an issue but here on the out skirts of London traffic is horrendous, 15 mile traffic jams on the M25 daily. I wouldn't even attempt it on the Enfield as the concentration required, filtering/lane splitting is stressful enough without the possibility of stalling randomly between 4 lanes slow moving traffic.

[NVDucati]

Please keep us updated as it's a bit of a fly in the ointment in an otherwise great bike. Others who live in more rural areas won't find it an issue but here on the out skirts of London traffic is horrendous, 15 mile traffic jams on the M25 daily. I wouldn't even attempt it on the Enfield as the concentration required, filtering/lane splitting is stressful enough without the possibility of stalling randomly between 4 lanes slow moving traffic.

Even after the dealer / RE gets your idle sorted, and I'm sure they will, if that London environment will be its' major duty ... have you considered a different drive sprocket at some point?

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

Even after the dealer / RE gets your idle sorted, and I'm sure they will, if that London environment will be its' major duty ... have you considered a different drive sprocket at some point?

I would only use it in good weather, most of the time I use a Vespa GTS 300 and on occasions my Van Van 200.

[whippers]

Do you like your Vespa GTS300? I’ve always fancied one

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

Do you like your Vespa GTS300? I’ve always fancied one

I've had a few scooters for my commute from 250cc to 650cc and I wouldn't be without one now. I still have 5 other bike though.
There are definitely better all round scooters but I love a bit of classic style so the Vespa fits the bill. It's light and maneuverable good on fuel (79mpg average and best 98mpg while running in, UK gallons).
I have been able to do a day trips from England to France into Belgium (Brits will know it as a fag/baccy run ) a round trip of 360 miles, sitting at a GPS 70mph with ease.
I have a thought process when buy a bike. Buy a bike that you would be happy to just look at if it breaks down.  

[SouthernShandyDrinker]

My bike is a 2021 euro5 with700 miles on the clock. My first ride out it stalled when pulling up at a junction. Thought this was because engine was new and required bedding in. This happened on most ride outs and became annoying. 300 mile service dealer did a test ride and no concerns told to contact them if it continued which it did. The throttle sensor was found to be faulty. Going in this week to be replaced under warranty, so will see if that sorts the issue out.

Have you had the throttle sensor replaced yet and if so was there an improvement.

[Rocket Richard]

Did you ever get to the bottom of this issue.  I am interested as my EU5 interceptor is doing the same sort of thing?

[iblastoff]

i have a euro4 bike and i've now had my 2021 gt650 stall a couple of times going off the line at stop lights. today the light turns green, i give some throttle and ease off the clutch as per usual. bike just dies. i've had this happen maybe 3 times total on this bike with about 2500km. which isnt terrible. but thats about 3 times more than its ever happened on my other bike with nearly 20,000km. i've never stalled just trying to get going and its embarrassing since cars are behind me.

i also cant tell from the analog dial, but it seems my bike has been idling closer to 1000rpm than 1200rpm. it kinda dances a bit. the temp here in canada is definitely getting colder recently (been riding in 0-10C or 32F-50F) so i dont know if that has anything to do with anything.

i did replace the exhausts with a pair of scorpions, but this also happened when i had stock exhaust still on there.

does this have something to do with the ecu and 'quickly switching from idle circuit to its low-speed circuit, and back again'? each time i have no idea if its 'dipping below to 800rpm' or anything since i'm not looking at the tach while riding.

[nic_23]

Hi All, did anybody solve this issue? I’m facing the same situation with an almost brand new interceptor and it’s quite annoying.

[Browner]

Mine did exactly the same thing from new. Went back twice to the dealer who replaced the ecu. Completely different bike now with no issues. Good luck.

[Warwick]

Mine still does it!!!

[SDias]

Hi guys

Same issue with my new 2021 EU5 Continental GT 650... it did it in the very same day I went to the dealer to pick it up! I tought it should be down to the bike being in the break-in period, but with all these comments here in the forum, I guess it´s not.

Still with only 200km (124 miles for you UK folks out there  ) it has happened 2 more times, always under the same circunstances. Small blips in the throttle at low revs, the rpm drops to 800 and if the blip occurs when the rpm is in that low range and it stalls. It always happens during very low speed manouvers, like in heavy traffic when you are squeezing through cars. It makes sense, because that´s when you´re giving small throttle inputs.

It seems it has to do with fuel managment by the ecu and not with any faulty sensor.

I guess I will wait for the post break-in first service at 500km (310 miles) to inquiry the dealer if they are aware of this issue and if there are more complaints from other owners or even a service bulletin issued by Royal Enfield regarding this issue.

I´ll be following this post and reply when the time comes.

[mowerman2005]

I had the same issue on my 2021 euro 5 spec conti GT....especially on the way home after picking it up new from the dealer, happened a few times on the 25 mile journey home. It did get better after about 400 - 500 miles (650 - 800km) but I did find that on the end of the throttle cables, under the side cover to the throttle body, that the tiny rubber end caps had come off the adjusters and got stuck in the groove of the throttle body cam and was effectively changing the position of the throttle...I fitted them baack onto the ends of the cable adjusters and also adjusted the cables as they had way to much play and that improved it a lot, never stalled since...... might not be the issue but thought I would put my experience out there.

[CPJS]

When using E10 fuel my bike does not tickover as smoothly as when running on E5.

[lucky phil]

I had the same issue on my 2021 euro 5 spec conti GT....especially on the way home after picking it up new from the dealer, happened a few times on the 25 mile journey home. It did get better after about 400 - 500 miles (650 - 800km) but I did find that on the end of the throttle cables, under the side cover to the throttle body, that the tiny rubber end caps had come off the adjusters and got stuck in the groove of the throttle body cam and was effectively changing the position of the throttle...I fitted them baack onto the ends of the cable adjusters and also adjusted the cables as they had way to much play and that improved it a lot, never stalled since...... might not be the issue but thought I would put my experience out there.

You mean like this? I posted this a while back. Mine was the same.

Ciao

[SDias]

Well, doesn´t hurt to check it out! Thank you guys for sharing feedback and also for the picture... it helps a lot in knowing what to look for 

As for the type of fuel I´m using, it´s premium E10... that´s what the dealer recomended.

[cafegtgirl]

This sounds like a similar issue the early GT 535's had. Yes, different motor but very similar issue. I cured it on my 535 by installing a PC 5. Not suggesting at all that is what you need to do though.
I agree with others that have said take it to a different dealer for diagnostics.  Good luck!

[SDias]

I´ve checked my throttle cable and sure enough, it had the rubber nipple out of place and jammed.  Dispite that, it didn´t seem to affect the normal functioning of the accelerator. I´ve put it into place, but the problem still persists. Still stalls when minimal throttle inputs are given.

As for the Power Comander V sugestion (or any other piggyback solutions) sadly being an Euro5 model (2021), means that those devices are not compatible, since the ECU´s are built with extra security measures that monitor and detect suspicious sensor reading values, wich would trigger fault codes and impair the normal functioning of the bike. At least, that´s what I read somewhere... .

Oh well, it´s not a big deal, I still enjoy riding it and I can get around this issue with a slight change in my riding style. I´m still going to bring this matter up to the dealer when the time comes for the 1st service. 

[iblastoff]

I´ve checked my throttle cable and sure enough, it had the rubber nipple out of place and jammed.  Dispite that, it didn´t seem to affect the normal functioning of the accelerator. I´ve put it into place, but the problem still persists. Still stalls when minimal throttle inputs are given.

As for the Power Comander V sugestion (or any other piggyback solutions) sadly being an Euro5 model (2021), means that those devices are not compatible, since the ECU´s are built with extra security measures that monitor and detect suspicious sensor reading values, wich would trigger fault codes and impair the normal functioning of the bike. At least, that´s what I read somewhere... .

Oh well, it´s not a big deal, I still enjoy riding it and I can get around this issue with a slight change in my riding style. I´m still going to bring this matter up to the dealer when the time comes for the 1st service.

honestly that sounds like a pretty big deal to me and super annoying. its a brand new bike. having it randomly stall on low revs is unacceptable, nor should a PC be the solution.

[Mort]

honestly that sounds like a pretty big deal to me and super annoying. its a brand new bike. having it randomly stall on low revs is unacceptable, nor should a PC be the solution.

[Andy Mileham]

I’ve just had the same problem with my new Interceptor, 140 miles.
I checked the pipe connections to the throttle body and the cable connections to the throttle position sensor- all seemingly OK, but then found that the throttle body butterfly stop adjuster (located on the bottom of right hand throttle body) had not been screwed in enough to contact the throttle cable pulley, thus allowing the butterflies to bottom out on the Venturi. A small increase in the idle speed by tightening this a little has much improved the problem. I think that with Euro 5 specs a warm engine is always going to be touchy at low revs with such a weak mixture. I noticed the problem didn’t occur when the engine was cold and automatically enriched by the ECU. Good luck!

[pedro__]

I got bike back from dealer, they did some "adjust" to ecu....problem still persists. I couldnt talk personally to the mechanic...i talked to some helper who didnt even look me in eyes....i didn´t like him.

Bike is going dealer again....it stalls on decelaration when i press clutch... on idle once...

But worse is that theres a new problem ! Now gear box gets stuck sometimes. I find myself stuck on neutral and i cant shift to first...when eventually do i do, engine shuts off....or will outright not let me start on first, just neutral, eventually after 4 embarrasing minutes stopped by the road, the bike lets me go when it wants too.

I dont know how im gonna work tomorrow. Unbelievable.

Im not sure if im just unlucky....or if the quality control of these machines are just this bad.

[Jack Straw]

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles but I have to say "adjusting the ECU" sounds like B.S. 

[pedro__]

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles but I have to say "adjusting the ECU" sounds like B.S.

Yes...i thought as much, but im just a layman. I assumed they could raise idle on ecu or something...

I checked the relays...they indeed had too much grease, but i went ride it after and all the same.

But with this gear box issue....i cant go too far.

This situation is very upsetting...customer service has been average. Once i have more info ill post.

Im writing from Portugal btw, one dealer only close to me.

[JessHerbst]

I got bike back from dealer, they did some "adjust" to ecu....problem still persists. I couldnt talk personally to the mechanic...i talked to some helper who didnt even look me in eyes....i didn´t like him.

Bike is going dealer again....it stalls on decelaration when i press clutch... on idle once...

But worse is that theres a new problem ! Now gear box gets stuck sometimes. I find myself stuck on neutral and i cant shift to first...when eventually do i do, engine shuts off....or will outright not let me start on first, just neutral, eventually after 4 embarrasing minutes stopped by the road, the bike lets me go when it wants too.

I dont know how im gonna work tomorrow. Unbelievable.

Im not sure if im just unlucky....or if the quality control of these machines are just this bad.

Just a question but are you sure clutch is properly adjusted?

[Carl Fenn]

Frankly as the bike is under warrantee l would take it back to dealer you could spend hours and hours of investigation searching for issues like this, the bike sounds dangerous as it stands let the dealer sort it at no cost to you.

[agagliardi]

Jess makes a good point. Take most of the free play out of the clutch cable. If the bike has low miles the tranny will be notcy and reluctant- has the be shifted at higher revs, that is my experience with this bike. A clutch that is not fully engaged or
"dragging" would cause these shifting problems and stalling. Side stand sensor problem? Another possible contributing culprit. Some of our members have complained of this. Hey a lemon with gremlins is also possible, but I suspect most of these problems can be corrected by a competant mechanic(getting rarer). Was the bike bought new or used?

[diogo_sergio]

Yes...i thought as much, but im just a layman. I assumed they could raise idle on ecu or something...

I checked the relays...they indeed had too much grease, but i went ride it after and all the same.

But with this gear box issue....i cant go too far.

This situation is very upsetting...customer service has been average. Once i have more info ill post.

Im writing from Portugal btw, one dealer only close to me.

What dealer have you been dealing with, if you don't mind me asking? I'm from Portugal too...

[SDias]

Hi again guys. My bike went for the dealer due to the first service (500km) and I informed them about this stalling issue when giving small and fast throttle blips. I even replicated the issue in the presence of the dealer employee, who informed me that Royal Enfield has been aware of this issue and their recommendation was an ECU reflash. I don't know if it's a slightly different map or if it's just the same.

What I know is that they did it and it worked perfect, no more stalling under the same circunstances it happened before. The bike is perfect now.

Just as a side note to some of the forum guys, I'm also from Portugal and my bike was serviced at Royal Enfield Lisboa.

[NVDucati]

Hi again guys. My bike went for the dealer due to the first service (500km) and I informed them about this stalling issue when giving small and fast throttle blips. I even replicated the issue in the presence of the dealer employee, who informed me that Royal Enfield has been aware of this issue and their recommendation was an ECU reflash. I don't know if it's a slightly different map or if it's just the same.

What I know is that they did it and it worked perfect, no more stalling under the same circunstances it happened before. The bike is perfect now.

Just as a side note to some of the forum guys, I'm also from Portugal and my bike was serviced at Royal Enfield Lisboa.

Thank you very much. That is a big help when people report the results.
{PS: I've been to Portugal a number of times. As a teen I climbed the Monument to The Navigators at the marina.}

[SDias]

Well, spoken too soon. It seems the issue has returned and I don´t know why, because on the ride back from the workshop I´ve replicated the procedure that would cause the stalling issue more than once and it just didnt´t happen.

But the more I rode with the bike, it seems the ecu returned to it´s bad habits  I don´t know if it has anything to do with the EFI closed loop mode that it´s responsible to keep emissions under control and it´s messing up with the injection map at low rpm with minimal throttle inputs, maybe due to the TPS sensor that is slightly out of the desired volt range wich in turn has an impact on those EFI calculations.

Back to the workshop under warranty and let´s see what the solution will eventually be... if any.

[NVDucati]

Well, spoken too soon. It seems the issue has returned and I don´t know why, because on the ride back from the workshop I´ve replicated the procedure that would cause the stalling issue more than once and it just didnt´t happen.

But the more I rode with the bike, it seems the ecu returned to it´s bad habits  I don´t know if it has anything to do with the EFI closed loop mode that it´s responsible to keep emissions under control and it´s messing up with the injection map at low rpm with minimal throttle inputs, maybe due to the TPS sensor that is slightly out of the desired volt range wich in turn has an impact on those EFI calculations.

Back to the workshop under warranty and let´s see what the solution will eventually be... if any.

Curious: Was there any discussion by the mechanic about the stepper idle system as mentioned in Reply #15 ?

[pedro__]

Im from the North, Porto, same issue.

Mine is going back, i havent ridden for a week, this whole episode is just stressful and drains my energies. Im not even having fun riding anymore you know ? This is the opposite why i bought a bike.

To the person who mentioned if my cluth is properly adjusted....i just checked...its like 3mm.

I notice in cold weather in morning any hesitation is smaller....during afternoon when i came back, bike gets more hot and these questions exacerbate....oh and after this morning efi light is permanently on....

Heres a video of me outright having to stop by the curb because the bike just refused turn on.....after some minutes....it decided it would get me home 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bOAzPazeb50

Just pathetic. I really shouldve bought Honda. The hornet with the effed clutch i used in lessons was easier to ride than this

[agagliardi]

Hello Pedro-frustration, but it will be a great bike when it is sorted out and fixed. Don't give on it yet.

3 mm is too much. Adjust the clutch with just a tiny amount of free play. This transmission gets smooth with use and miles(km?).

Did you wipe the grease off the relays? Just leave a little bit.

Is it possible you got bad gas, or water in it?

[Hoiho]

Hello Pedro-frustration, but it will be a great bike when it is sorted out and fixed. Don't give on it yet.

3 mm is too much. Adjust the clutch with just a tiny amount of free play. This transmission gets smooth with use and miles(km?).

Did you wipe the grease off the relays? Just leave a little bit.

Is it possible you got bad gas, or water in it?

3mm at the actuator (not the lever) is probably about right. I've noticed the freeplay actually decreases when the bike is hot...

[lucky phil]

Im from the North, Porto, same issue.

Mine is going back, i havent ridden for a week, this whole episode is just stressful and drains my energies. Im not even having fun riding anymore you know ? This is the opposite why i bought a bike.

To the person who mentioned if my cluth is properly adjusted....i just checked...its like 3mm.

I notice in cold weather in morning any hesitation is smaller....during afternoon when i came back, bike gets more hot and these questions exacerbate....oh and after this morning efi light is permanently on....

Heres a video of me outright having to stop by the curb because the bike just refused turn on.....after some minutes....it decided it would get me home 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bOAzPazeb50

Just pathetic. I really shouldve bought Honda. The hornet with the effed clutch i used in lessons was easier to ride than this

I've had more than 35 new motorcycles over the last 40 years and believe me this isn't an unusual situation. My 2 Triumph 595's did it even after multiple Sagem software updated over 3 years. Guzzi's are same and the reason there are really smart people selling updated tuning maps for them and Ducatis is for similar reasons. If you thing the RE is some outlier and buying something else would have guaranteed a hassle free experience I'm afraid thats not necessarily the case. It's annoying but it'll get sorted eventually. from your video it looks like you still have main power when it cuts out. Next time try switching the kill switch instead of the ignition switch and see what happens and let us know if you can.
Ciao 

[agagliardi]

Strange, my clutch free-play always increases as I ride . I had a notchy, reluctant tranny shifting problem when the bike was new. I decreased the clutch free-play to a minimum which made the bike rideable, and significantly improved shifting, which got much smoother with time.  Even now, bike is fully broken in, and free-play increases after time and clutch usage. Seems to close up/ decrease free-play when the bike sits and cools down.

Just try decreasing the free-play to a minimum for the hell of it. Give me your experience. I would like to know how your bike reacts/shifts/etc .

[lucky phil]

Strange, my clutch free-play always increases as I ride . I had a notchy, reluctant tranny shifting problem when the bike was new. I decreased the clutch free-play to a minimum which made the bike rideable, and significantly improved shifting, which got much smoother with time.  Even now, bike is fully broken in, and free-play increases after time and clutch usage. Seems to close up/ decrease free-play when the bike sits and cools down.

Just try decreasing the free-play to a minimum for the hell of it. Give me your experience. I would like to know how your bike reacts/shifts/etc .

This is normal because the engine cases heat up and increase the clearances in the clutch actuating mechanism. Notchy gearbox is generally caused by short shifting and shifting to higher gears at low road speeds. A motorcycle gearbox shifts better as the road speed increases so bumbling around slowly styling it on the boulevard the shifting will be notchy and clunky. Go out and do a first to second shift revving the engine to 2500rpm in 1st and then the same shift revving it to 5000rpm and you'll see the difference.

Ciao   

[NVDucati]

Strange, my clutch free-play always increases as I ride . I had a notchy, reluctant tranny shifting problem when the bike was new. I decreased the clutch free-play to a minimum which made the bike rideable, and significantly improved shifting, which got much smoother with time.  Even now, bike is fully broken in, and free-play increases after time and clutch usage. Seems to close up/ decrease free-play when the bike sits and cools down.

Just try decreasing the free-play to a minimum for the hell of it. Give me your experience. I would like to know how your bike reacts/shifts/etc .

I'm not sure if any two brands of motorcycles really shift the same. I'm not sure if models within a brand shift the same.
I'm pretty sure we all dial into what best works for a particular bike as it breaks us in.

[BrissyContinentalGT650]

G'day
New here and just brought a 650 twin, been having the stalling issue also. Have done all the quick fixes relays spark plugs greese cleaning etc. With no luck been sifting through forums and videos trying to work out this same issue. After talking to the dealer that sold me the bike he mentioned the throttle position switch may have to be replaced. But after a bit of throttle cable adjustment and removing the TPS cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner, reinstalling it and holding it in a clockwise direction while tightening it( it has a little bit of play on the screws) seems to have fixed the problem I cant make it stall like I could before "blipping" the throttle the revs hold and don't drop below 1100 no matter how much blipping I do.
Hope this helps if it hasn't already been said before.
Awesome bike, well built, and a ton of fun thank you Royal Enfield

[NVDucati]

G'day
New here and just brought a 650 twin, been having the stalling issue also. Have done all the quick fixes relays spark plugs greese cleaning etc. With no luck been sifting through forums and videos trying to work out this same issue. After talking to the dealer that sold me the bike he mentioned the throttle position switch may have to be replaced. But after a bit of throttle cable adjustment and removing the TPS cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner, reinstalling it and holding it in a clockwise direction while tightening it( it has a little bit of play on the screws) seems to have fixed the problem I cant make it stall like I could before "blipping" the throttle the revs hold and don't drop below 1100 no matter how much blipping I do.
Hope this helps if it hasn't already been said before.
Awesome bike, well built, and a ton of fun thank you Royal Enfield

Welcome to the forum. Pretty impressive first post .
Have you had a chance to let your dealer know about your solution? It might help to "back-feed" the information to the assembly line. There is a lot of DIY adjustment info for Suzuki motorcycles out there. But, of course, we don't know if the RE system is the same or just similar.
Again, welcome.

[BrissyContinentalGT650]

Thanks mate
Yea I let the dealer know he was just happy I wasn't another P.Oed customer flipping there lid over this common problem. Either way I've always got good info eventually from forums and like minded sick C**ts sharing good info just happy to help brother.
Thanks again 🤙

[fireypete]

Viva Brisvegas!

[Karl Steel]

I know nothing, but I'm curious. While trying to learn what you guys are talking about, I found this:
 "Replacing the throttle position sensor will include clearing off the relevant faulty codes and may require software reprogramming".
I understood that he didn't replace it, but cleaned and re-adjusted it. Anyhow, what's about these faulty codes - are these a problem now for BrissyContinentalGT650?

I also found this: "It is always better to get the Throttle Position Sensor replaced rather than getting it cleaned because cleaning can come into handy for a few days, but over the long run, it may fail at any time. So make sure you get it replaced and not cleaned."

So, what should Brissy do?

[BrissyContinentalGT650]

Na no codes here man bike was running TPS screws loose then twist and tighten. To prove to myself while bike was running and screws loose I wiggled the TPS back and forth and the rpm raised and fluctuated. I do think the throttle cable adjustment had a lot to do with it also. Or it could just be my bike worth a shot but. As for your point of clearing codes that's for a already faulty TPS that has thrown up a code and yes that would have to be cleared via obd2 scanner/phone app and Bluetooth dongle

[Phil Mars]

Hi all and greetings from Tasmania. My 650 is just over 4 weeks old and around 450k's.
It appears to have the same "feature" as the rest and is coming up for its first service so we will see.....
I have found that rather than blipping the throttle and just accelerating from idle everything appears OK so perhaps something in my riding style I need to change.

[Phil Mars]

Just got the bike back from its first service and I mentioned the stalling issue. They loaded a new map as there were some fault codes evident so we will see if it has made a difference although from experience firmware upgrades can go either way......

[AmirAkhrif]

Had the same issue and found a the problem.

The bike would stall in idle after a rev. The issue was the black rubber cover had slid down the throttle cable attached on the right side. Just slip it back up to the nut.

Works perfectly.

[ADT22]

Hi, did anyone manage to fix your bike? I’m in Spain, having a very very similar issue with my Euro 5 Conti, the bike has been in the shop for the past 2 months, they redid the wiring and it seems to run well now, but displays an error conde that the mechanic can’t seem to get rid off, it’s an error regarding air pressure according to him. I’m beyond desperate so appreciate any help. This has been hell.